Catalog (2433)

A fine pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from surmounts enhanced with foliate engraving, black taille d'epargne enameled borders and Etruscan ropetwist "ram's horns". The foxtail chains terminate in small gold balls. The earrings are a bit longer than most tassels and have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1880
• LENGTH 2 3/8" from tops of wires
• WEIGHT 12.3 grams
• CONDITION excellent; new 14K wires

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks, the faces with Florentined engraving and bands of round rubies at either end. The rubies have nicely saturated, strongly purplish-red coloring and eye-clean clarity. The back batons are finished with reeded engraving. The toggle connectors are marked with French 18K gold import marks.

• Circa 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: longer batons, 27/32"
Weight: 14.8 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .50 carat.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold bird pin, the body formed from a oval cabochon turquoise, and the head and wings from textured gold. The eye set with a cabochon sapphire surrounded by small single-cut diamonds. The tail feathers are accented diamonds set in white gold feathers. The branch has a single turquoise and diamond flower. The design is clearly a nod to Van Cleef & Arpels' "La Boutique" collection which was inspired by early animated cartoon characters. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-1/4”: Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .75 carat; sapphire, .13 carat; turquoise, 9.10 carats.
• Weight: 18.5 grams.

A fine pair of French 18K gold, enamel and sapphire cufflinks. The round faces are decorated with champleve enamel in a soft translucent French blue shade surrounded by a border of opaque white with gold accents. Each face is centered with a sapphire sugarloaf cabochon. The faces are connected with chains to gold torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .26 carat

A wonderful Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold and featuring a design of crescent moons and stars. In Victorian jewelry, crescent moons were used to evoke the goddess Selene (Roman “Luna”) as a representation of feminine power while stars represented wisdom and divine guidance. The pearls’ white color further suggests “purity.” This bracelet was likely a bridal gift intended to remind the young woman that she was not going into her marriage without power and guidance. The bangle is hinged and has a generously sized safety chain, so it is quite easy to get on and off. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880
Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide at front; 5/32” wide at back; inner circumference, 6-1/2”
• Weight: 14.4 grams

A very handsome and heavy pair of double-sided 18K gold cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with stripes of engine-turned engraving and translucent royal blue guilloche enamel. The faces are joined by chains. Both the faces and the individual chain links are fully marked for Sheffield, 1905 and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: Sheffield, England, 1905
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions; faces, 3/4” x 9/16”
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is the second largest of the four available sizes. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1735.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 1” x 1-1/16”; chain, 18” long. Weight: 10.1 grams.

A very rare 14K yellow gold and enamel pin in the form of an oyster shell complete with a small pearl. The enamel is beautifully worked in shades of greenish- and silvery-grey. The shell is depicted as slightly opened with pearl resting along the opened edge. The back of the pin is stamped with the 14K gold hallmark of Alberts & Son, Inc., one of the Newark jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 7/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a target motif of diamonds, rubies and platinum. The cushion cut rubies have nicely-saturated bright color that contrasts well with the old mine cut diamonds at the centers. Chains connect the faces to platinum and gold torpedo backs, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The faces are marked “18” and have an unidentified European hallmark.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 ct; ruby, .62 ct.

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

An impressive Retro period ring worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents, and featuring a .48-ct old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of bright .47-ct round brilliant synthetic rubies (customary for the period). The ring was designed by Albert Rolland, a custom jeweler who set up shop in Paris in 1904, and is finely detailed with ropetwists and beading, as well as an ornate gallery along the sides. The gallery is fairly deep, so the ring sits nicely above the finger. The diamond is graded as J/SI1. The rubies have bright, clear coloring. The shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold and platinum marks and with Rolland's master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 9.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .48 ct; ruby, .94 ct.

A very nice, heavy pair of classic double-sided cufflinks, each oval face set with old mine cut diamonds. The design is simple enough for the cufflinks to be worn during the day, but there's enough sparkle for evening wear, too. The diamonds are G-J color, VS1 to SI2 clarity. The cufflinks are fully hallmarked 18K, Birmingham and 1919. They also bear the marker's mark for B. H. Joseph & Co. (1865-1929).

Origin: Birmingham, England, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 13.0 gr.

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the "mors de filet" or "snaffle" design originally created for Hermès by Gaetan de Percin. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a diamond-cut design. De Percin's design was very popular and served as the basis for a number of closely related designs. These cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks, an unidentified goldsmith’s mark and the notation for "breveté", indicating that the design was patented.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 5/8 x 11/32". Weight: 12.7 gr.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Weight: 6.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A particularly fine gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

An elegant pair of classic Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold hoop earrings in a braided, twisted rope motif. The backs have posts with omega clips. The interior of each hoop is marked "Tiffany & Co. 1995 750".

Origin: America, 1995

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" diameter, 1/4" width

Weight: 11.2 grams

A wonderful Victorian angel skin cameo depicting a 17th century gentlemen set in 18K gold. Male cameos are rather unusual and typically depict deities from the Greco-Roman pantheon or historical figures. This example appears very similar to the Van Dyck portraits of King Charles II. The details of the lace collar, heavy neck chain, ruffled shirt, beard and hair are very finely worked. The cameo is deeply carved, with the white figure standing out beautifully from the soft pink background. The setting is simple, featuring only a simple line of wire-twist decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably American, circa 1850
• Excellent condition; no cracking to coral; replaced clasp
• 2-1/32" x 1-13/16"
• 26.8 grams

A fine Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob pendant featuring a 23.5-carat oval brilliant cut amethyst nested in the coiled tail and wings of a ferocious dragon. The tail and wings are very nicely detailed with scales and feathers. The dragon's neck forms the bail from which the pendant would hang. The amethyst has very nice even coloring, eye-clean clarity and good cut. Jewels featuring mythological creatures became popular in Paris around 1870 and the craze then spread to England and America. Being worked in 14K gold (tested and guaranteed), this example is certainly American.

• America, ca. 1875
• Very good condition; sharp detail to gold work; minor wear abrasions to facet junctions (mostly along the keel at the back of the stone) on the amethyst consistent with age
• 1-3/16" x 1-1/4"
• 10.79 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 23.5 carats

French Art Nouveau 18K gold and sapphire cufflinks, the triangular faces pierced in a decoration of stylized flowers and set at the centers with cabochon blue sapphires. The gold surface has a very handsome matte finish that allows the sapphires to shine. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (SAS).

• France, ca 1895.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail.
• 5/8" x 5/8".
• 7.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.04 carat.

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

An elegant French 18K yellow gold 22" chain enhanced with randomly-spaced small semi-baroque pearls set at irregular lengths and finished with a bulldog swivel clip perfect for hanging interchangeable charms or pendants (as shown for illustration purposes). The pendant is being sold separately. It is item number 1405532 in our catalog. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Length: 22".
• Weight: 12.7 grams.

A Georgian 15K gold gentleman's ring set with a hematite intaglio with a rare image from Greek/Roman mythology. We see the buff god Apollo in his horse-drawn chariot being led by Eros ("Cupid"), the god of love. This scene depicts the beginning of the tale of the water nymph Daphne.

Best know as god of the sun, Apollo was also the patron god of archers. One day, he mocked Cupid for the small size of the latter's bow and arrows. In revenge, Cupid shot Apollo with a golden-tipped arrow that would make Apollo fall in first with the first female he saw. Cupid shot Daphne with a lead-tipped arrow that would fill her with disdain for the first male she saw. Knowing she was nearby, Cupid taunted Apollo then flew toward Daphne's location with Apollo giving chase. The sun god immediately fell in love with Daphne and gave chase until the water nymph begged her father to save her, which he did by transforming her into a laurel tree. Apollo made the laurel tree his symbol, and as a last act of love for Daphne, used his powers of youth to transform the tree into an evergreen with eternally green leaves.

• Origin: England, ca. 1800
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: intaglio, 1" x 3/4"
• Finger Size: 7-3/4
• Weight:15.6 grams

A fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with high-domed amethyst cabochons by David-Andersen. The amethysts have deep, rich coloring and excellent clarity. David-Andersen is widely known for its enameled silver jewelry, but also made a very limited number of pieces in gold. Each cufflink is stamped “D-A 585”.

• Origin: Norway, ca. 1965
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.7 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 21.42 carats

An elegant pair of long 18K gold earrings enhanced with floral shaded enamel plaques. The gold surfaces are intricately engraved to add a bit of sparkle. The earrings have nice movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1840
• Dimensions: 2-9/16" long from top of earwire
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced earwires
• Weight: 8.3 grams

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, garnets, green tourmalines, and most unusually, a very rare blue indicolite tourmaline and an even rarer neon green tourmaline with paraiba-like coloring. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to showcase the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian ines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a different appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This pendant has very strong jewel tones. The back retains the original pinstem for wear as a brooch and the original folding bail for use as a pendant. The back is stamped with Stern's older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this pendant converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a pearl. The conversion was accomplished with the addition of a hidden bail the back of the flower. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this pendant is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching ring converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412578.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; a tiny nick to the purple at white enamel at the center for the flower behind the pearl visible upon close inspection
• Dimensions: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8"
• Weight: 6.1 grams.

A very rare French first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) tastevin, the bottom bearing the coat of arms of the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The arms depict St. Vincent, patron saint of winemakers. The body is further decorated with the traditional raised “perles” for highlighting the reflections in the wine and recessed “cupules” and elongated “godrons” intended to concentrate the color during the tasting process. The handle is worked in the snake motif traditional in Burgundian tastevins. The rim is stamped with the master silversmith’s mark for Emile Mémery & Henri Hours.

The Confrerie was established in 1934 to promote the wines of Burgundy. Modeled on Medieval guilds, membership in the Confrerie is strictly controlled and is open only to sponsored candidates. A tastevin bearing the arms of the Confrerie could only have belonged to a member. Tastevins used by the Confrerie come in a few different variations (not all the members are wealthy and must make do with a silverplate taster), with the being the rarest and most prized. Known for their service to the elite of Burgundy, Alsace and Lorraine, Mémery & Hours were the preferred silversmiths to the Confrerie’s elite.

• Origin: Lyon, France, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the coat of arms; a minor ding on each of two “cupules”
• Dimensions: 3-1/16” x 4” x 1”
• Weight: 96.8 grams

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with rhodolite garnets. The garnets have very fine color with bright shots of violet. The gold surface is stippled. The back cover is ornately engraved in a checkerboard pattern. The interior has a hinged glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Total Gemstone Weight: 3.71 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

A handsome griffin with back-stretched wings, a lion’s head and a curling serpent’s tail grasps an old mine cut diamond in this 19th century French brooch and necklace slide. Interestingly, the creature’s tongue is licking the diamond. The eye is set with a small faceted ruby. The back retains the original pin stem and a hinged clasp so the griffin can be attached to a chain. The hinged clasp is marked “Déposé” meaning the griffin was a patented design. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 3/4”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .12 carat
• Weight: 4.7 grams

Open the ornately engraved box to reveal a miniature record play complete with an album that turn and a moveable needle arm. The controls are represented by small turquoise and coral cabochons. The music box plays “Let Me Call You Sweetheart,” a song recorded by everyone from Patti Page to Bing Crosby to Ethel Merman, to Micky and Minnie Mouse. The case is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, music box in working condition
• Dimensions: 1” x 27/32” x 1/2"
• Weight: 22.1 grams

Fabulous and extremely rare hand-forged iron trade sign in the form of a pretzel. The sign retains an old gilt surface. There is a strong trace of red, yellow and blue paint on the back side and edges of the pretzel, no doubt the colors that were used on the wall or backboard to which the sign was attached through the 13 mounting holes. There also appears to be a red layer underneath the gold. This layer was probably intended to be an undercoating to give the gilding more depth. I don't think the pretzel was originally red and then gilded later. In any case, the gilt surface has considerable age, and probably dates from at least the late 19th century. Approximately 10% of the gilt surface shows wear (nearly all of it on the left side.

Origin: America, found in south-central Pennsylvania, circa mid-19th century. Condition: see paint description above, no cracks. Size: 18-1/2" x 15-1/2" x 1".

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern, the dome bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring tend toward richer autumnal colors with a lot of garnet-red, gold and medium-dark green. Stamped with an early Stern mark and "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/2 to 6-3/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

A very fine French Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold brooch set with diamonds, blue sapphires and demantoid garnets around a central sugarloaf cabochon 3.59-carat peridot. The demantoids exhibit the desirable horsetail inclusions characteristic of Russian stones. The combination of blue sapphires and the bright grassy green of the demantoids and peridot is very pleasing. All the smaller stones are old mine cuts. Six small rose-cut diamonds are collet-set in silver. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem which is fully stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold and with an illegible goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 19/32". Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 carat; sapphire, .4 carat; demantoid, .46 carat; peridot, 3.59 carats.