Catalog (2449)

An outstanding pair of antique 18K yellow gold cufflinks set with diamonds and rubies in the "Japanesque" style produced by Tiffany & Co. for a very brief period following the opening of Japan to western trade in the 1850s. Pieces in this style were wildly popular and always drew from traditional Japanese natural motifs, in this case chrysanthemum blossoms. Each slightly-domed face is ornately worked in a series of overlapping petals, centering old European cut diamonds and cushion cut rubies. The prongs holding the gemstones are fashioned as tiny flower petals--an element not visible except under magnification. The diamonds are estimated at H color and VS1 clarity, while the rubies are strongly-saturated medium-dark, slightly purplish-red in color. The rubies show no signs of heat treatment and are likely Burmese in origin. The faces are joined by chain links, and the backs are marked "Tiffany & Co." in the old style. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The chrysanthemum was a symbol reserved exclusively for the use of the Japanese emperor and his immediate family. As a further nod to the Japanesque style, Tiffany chose to use gemstones in shades of red and white--the official colors of the Meiji Imperial dynasty.

Origin: America, 1877-1883. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .172 ct; ruby, .367 ct.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

Lovely Renaissance style gilt copper jewel casket by Jenning Brothers. The interior is fitted with the original blue velvet lining. The center of the lid features a coat of arms. Origin: America. The decorative bottom is marked "JB" with the pattern number "1377". Size: 4.5" long; 3" wide; 2" tall. Condition: Slight rubs through gilding to copper base at corners.

Sterling silver bottle opener in Georg Jensen's beautiful 1930 Art Deco "Cactus" pattern. The handle is marked "Georg Jensen" in a dotted oval and "Sterling Denmark"; the opener is marked "Georg Jensen Denmark".

Origin: Denmark. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 4-13/16" long.

A very attractive pair of silver cufflinks inlaid with various hardstones by noted Navajo artist Jim Harrison. The curved faces are inlaid with turquoise, coral, lapis, sugilite, onyx and malachite in a contemporary interpretation of timeless Navajo designs. Harrison is considered a pioneer of contemporary Native America inlaid jewelry and his work is held in several museum collections. Each cufflink is signed "Jim Harrison" and is marked "Sterling".

Origin: America (New Mexico), ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16 in. Weight: 12.2 gr.

An elegant pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver by DeBeers Award winning jewelry designer John Atencio. The pendant features a square cushion cut amethyst surrounded by pave-set round brilliant cut diamonds. The amethyst has strong purple coloring, and the use of concave facets creates are very lively brilliance in the stone stone. The diamonds are of good quality, averaging J color and SI clarity. The setting is finely detailed with niello accents. The bale is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain, and is marked “SS 18K”. The back of the setting incorporates the jeweler’s initials “JA” as a signature. The approximate retail cost of this pendant is $830.

Origin: America, ca. 2000

Condition: excellent

Size: 1-3/16” x 11/16”

Weight: 12.5 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.81 carats; diamond, .28 carat.

A nice coin silver rattail spoon by John Brown, active in Baltimore from 1799, after apprenticing in Philadelphia. The bowl is rather narrow, suggesting it was to be used as a pap spoon. The spoon must have been an early piece from Brown's shop, as the design is quite clearly drawn from late 18th century styles. The three-letter monogram in a bright-cut cartouche is also characteristic of the period. The back is marked with Brown's punch.

Origin: Baltimore, ca. 1800. Condition: a few small to moderate dings in the bowl. Size: 5-5/8". Weight: 11.25 grams.

Very nice dark blue Staffordshire transferware plate in the “Bear” pattern from the “Quadruped” series by Hall. The plate depicts a river otter catching a salmon in the central reserve, surrounded by shield-shaped reserves depicting (from top going clockwise) a hedgehog and a mole, a pair of rabbits, a seal, and a civet and genet. All of the animals are based on illustrations by Caesar Ibbetson that appeared in John Church’s 1805 “A Cabinet of Quadrupeds.” The back is stamped “I Hall Quadrupeds”.

Origin: England, 1814-32. Condition: very good, a shallow 3/8” glaze nick to the rim at the 2 o’clock position. Dimensions: 8-3/7” diameter.

An Art Deco sterling silver handled double jigger by silversmith John Hasselbring (Brooklyn, NY). The angularity of the handle contrasts nicely with the traditional shape of the cups. Stamped with Hasselbring's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: very good, a few pinpoints on handle and cups visible in strong, raking light; no monograms. Dimensions: 5-3/8" x 4-1/8". Weight: 78.7 gr.

A beautiful pair of matte-finished 18K yellow gold earrings from Judith Ripka’s high-end collection. Each oval cushion-shaped earring is highlighted with a pair of pave-set diamond hearts flanked by rows of beading and rope motifs. The diamonds are G/H color and VS1 clarity. The backs of the earrings have hooks so that gemstone pendants can be added—perhaps pearl drops or even larger diamond or colored stone solitaires. The backs retain the original posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked “Judith Ripka 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but similar earrings in the 2010 collection retail at approximately $2000.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in silver and 10K yellow gold. The pendant consists of an openwork triangular silver plaque with a pair of plique-a-jour enameled mistletoe leaves below a band of opals and above a band of brilliant green moldavites, themselves over a square-cut pink tourmaline suspending a semi-baroque pearl drop. The whole is suspended from a round brilliant cut pink tourmaline set in gold. The combination of colored gemstones is lovely and nicely accents the enamel. The opals have a particularly nice play of color in tones of blue and reddish-orange. The overall design strongly suggests the work of the Pforzheim studios in Germany, but the “Sterling” markings on the back indicate an American origin.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 1-5/16” x 2” (to top of bale). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, .96 ct; opal, .33 ct; moldavite, .20 ct. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A very uncommon graduated sterling silver handled jigger by one of Mexico’s most important Art Deco and modernist silversmiths, Juvento Lopez Reyes. He opened his studio, Plateria del Recreo in 1935, making most streamlined hollowware items in the Art Deco and modernist taste. The base is fully stamped with mark used by Reyes in the 1930s and 40s. The stepped sides of the jigger mark off .5, 1, 1.5 and 2-oz levels.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, except for one very minor ding. Dimensions: 2-1/2” tall. Weight: 54.4 grams.

A wonderful Art & Crafts sterling silver bracelet by the Kalo Workshop of Chicago. The bracelet is formed of six plaques, each centering an oval buff-cut citrine. The plaques are somewhat diamond-shaped, with beadwork at either end, and are joined by double oval links. The citrines have very dark amber coloring, with superb evenness and clarity. The smooth domed tops reflect the faceted cutting on the bottoms of the stones to very nice effect. The clasp is finished with a simple domed silver cabochon. The back of the clasp is stamped “Hand Wrought Sterling Kalo”. Kalo pieces set with gemstones are particularly rare.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.

Lovely glass paperweight button featuring a swirled pink and white rose set off by three green leaves and adventurine on an opaque white ground.

Origin:Possibly Charles Kaziun, Brockton, Mass., ca. 1950s but more likely Czechoslovokia, 1920's. Charles Kaziun produced this same style paperweight button with 4 leaves instead of three and with a looped wire shank without a shankplate. Condition: mint. Size: 7/16" diam.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Kieselstein-Cord to represent ancient Greek coins. The faces are decorated with images of horses, the animal sacred to the goddess Pallas Athena, and images similar to this often appear on the obverse of ancient coins minted in Athens. The surfaces and edges of the face a distressed and patinated to resemble truly ancient coins. Even the closing mechanism is designed in a way to suggest great age. Kiselstein-Cord made a small line of jewelry inspired by ancient Greek coins in the late 1980s, but the designs are very difficult to find now. Each cufflink is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Origin: Germany, 1988. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 25/32" x 21/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

A pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s classic “Caviar” pattern. Introduced in the early 1980’s, this design takes its name from the row of gold spheres the run through the center of the scroll. The design was used for a several styles of earrings, as well as bracelets and other jewels. These earrings are a smaller style and are more comfortable to wear than many of the other pieces. The omega clips are original, but posts could be added easily. Each earring is signed and dated 1981.

Origin: America, 1981. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16”. Weight: 19.5 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings in Keiselstein-Cord’s timeless “Rope Twist” design. These earrings were produced in at least two sizes, these being the. The surface is bloomed to create the semi-matte finish characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings are fully marked and dated for 1982, making this among his earliest designs.

• Germany, 1982
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (22 x 22 mm)
• Weight: 35.5 grams

pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Barry Kieselstein-Cord resembling a spiraled seashell. The gold has the softly burnished texture typical of Kieselstein-Cord’s designs in the 1980s. The omega clips are original, but posts could easily be added. Each earring is signed.

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1/2". Weight: 13.6 grams.

Very uncommon pair of transfer-printed pottery plates depicting King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. Their royal majesties are surrounded by an ornate border of roses. The edges of the plates are scalloped and molded. The plates are glazed in a brilliant gold color that contrasts beautifully with the grays and blacks of the transfer print. The backs are marked "J.W. Reid & Co., London, Ontario, England" and "His Majesty King Edward VII" and "Her Majesty Queen Alexandra".

Origin: England, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, except for a 1/4" flake on the bottom of the rim of the Edward plate. Size: 10" diameter.

A simply wonderful piece of English royalty memorabilia. A sterling silver replica of the English throne and the anointing spoon rest atop a replica of the velvet pillow upon which the crown is carried in procession at the coronation of English monarchs at Westminster Abbey. Both the throne and anointing spoon bear full hallmarks for the coronation year 1910 in the City of Birmingham. The maker's mark is "L&S." Both sterling pieces also bear a registry number. 2" tall; 2.5" square.

An elegant gilt sterling silver oval brooch by Kirk in the "Repousse" pattern. Kirk made a range of jewelry in this pattern but only a few were then gilt. With the addition of a bail to the back, this pin would make a very striking vertical pendant. The back is stamped with Kirk's hallmark from the 1932-61 period.

Origin: America, ca 1950. Condition: excellent, no wear to gilding. Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 15/16". Weight: 18.5 grams.

Rare sterling silver ice tongs in Kirk’s popular “Old Maryland Plain” pattern. This pattern, designed in 1850, is one of the oldest patterns in Baltimore silver. Because it is so simple, it can appear both Colonial or contemporary, and works well with nearly any silver pattern. The tongs are marked with later 20th century Kirk hallmarks.

Origin: America, ca 1980. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 6-1/4” long. Weight: 84.5 grams.

Large sterling silver berry spoon in Kirk's wonderful "Repousse" pattern. Certainly the most famous of all silver patterns to emerge from Baltimore, "Repousse" is filled with flowers such as roses, daisies and forget-me-nots. The bowl of the spoon is decorated with mixed fruit including strawberries, apples, grapes and raspberries. The back is marked "S. Kirk & Son Sterling", the mark used between 1927 and 1961.

Origin: Baltimore, Maryland, 1927-61. Condition: mint, no monogram. Size: 9-1/4" long.

Elegant sterling silver bonbon server in Kirk's popular "Repousse" pattern--probably the most famous of all the Baltimore silver patterns. The bowl is embellished with intricately designed fruit including grapes, pineapples, strawberries, and peaches. The reverse is marked "S. Kirk & Co. Sterling".

Origin: Baltimore, Maryland, circa 1920. Condition: near mint, no monogram. Size: 5-1/8" long.

An elegant sterling silver small letter opener in Kirk’s “Repousse” pattern. The wide end is beautifully decorated with a pattern of roses and foliage against a stippled background. The flat edge is marked off so it can be used as a ruler. The back is marked with the Kirk hallmarked used 1932-61.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, very light wear to the first few 1/16” makers on the ruler at the pointed tip. Weight: 26.5 grams.

Sterling silver gravy ladle in Kirk's 1937 "Rose" pattern. Fully decorated with a repousse floral design in the great Baltimore silver tradition, this piece would look lovely mixed with similar patterns such as Kirk "Repousse", Stieff "Rose", Schofield "Baltimore Rose", etc. The reverse is marked with Kirk's mark from the period 1927-1961. Excellent condition; no monogram or removal. 7-1/8" long.

A classic sterling silver jigger by Kirk & Son. The simple shape is accented with a gently flared lip and beautiful gilding. The bottom is stamped with the Kirk hallmark used from 1932.

• Origin: America, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent, no dings, gilding complete intact
• Dimensions: 1-15/16” tall
• Weight: 32.9 grams

A classic sterling silver double jigger by Kirk & Son. The two cups measure 1 and 2 ounces. Rather than being bell-shaped, the cups have straighter sides for a more contemporary look. The interior is fully hallmarked by Kirk.

• Origin: America, ca. 1960.
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms.
• Dimensions: 3-11/16" tall.
• Weight: 56.5 grams.

Lovely sterling silver low bowl in the "Repousse" pattern by Kirk. Beautifully accented with a scrolling border of shells, the heavily decorated border features roses, daisies, wild roses and other flowers with foliage. The bottom is stamped "Hand Decorated/S. Kirk & Son Inc./Sterling/714".

Origin: Baltimore, Maryland, 1925-32. Condition: excellent; no monograms or removals. Size: 8.25" diam.; 1.25" high. Weight: 8.8 troy ounces.

Superb ornate Victorian sterling silver soup ladle in the 1882 "Aeolian" pattern by Knowles. This is just a terrific pattern--easily on par with Gorham, Whiting or any of the other great Victorian silversmiths. The handle is ornately decorated with trailing fuchsias and foliage. The bowl is formed as a large leaf with very nice engraved details. The bowl is matte finished for added texture. The back is hallmarked by Knowles.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no dings, no monogram. Size: 11" long. Weight: 141.0 grams.

Of the thousands of cufflinks we’ve handled over the years, this is the first pair of Art Nouveau bean-back cufflinks we’ve ever seen that have a matching design worked on both the primary face and the bean back. The 14K yellow gold links are worked with a repousse design of a maiden wearing an ornate headdress filled with the scrolls and whiplash curves typical of Art Nouveau design. The connectors are hallmarked by Krementz and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp details. Size: large faces, 3/4” x 9/16; small faces, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 5.2 grams.

A very good 14K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled four-leaf clover. The clover's petals are beautifully detailed with enamel decoration and are centered with a prong-set round brilliant cut diamond of very fine quality. The clover is surrounded by a chunky round gold border. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, and is hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a tiny ding on the outer edge of the circle. Size: 1-11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.

An extraordinary and rare 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet by Krementz adorned with enameled white and pale blue forget-me-nots. Krementz made some of the best Art Nouveau enameled jewelry, and continued producing enamels well into the 20th century. Blue and white forget-me-nots, a particularly popular motif in the early 1900s, frequently appeared in small pins and pendants. This piece, however, is the first bangle bracelet we've seen. Bangle bracelets are notoriously subject to damage and it is amazing that the enamel on this bracelet has survived in mint condition. The enameled flowers are accented with engraved foliage and a stippled background. The interior is hallmarked by Krementz and is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1905.

Condition: Enamel is mint, some scratches on the inside of the gold band.

Size: 1/4" wide; opening, 2-9/16" x 2-1/4"; interior circumference, 7-7/16".

Weight: 9.0 grams.

A pretty vintage 14K yellow gold pin by Krementz featuring a spray of beautifully enameled bleeding hearts, each dangling a small seed pearl. The enameling on the blossoms has a matte effect that mimics the waxing texture of the flower in nature, while the leaves are in Krementz's more typical shaded translucent style. In Victorian flower language, bleeding hearts were used to represent "deepest love." Pins such as this with a delicate enameled flower against a geometric back represent are typical of Krementz's move Art Nouveau into Art Deco and finally Retro. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams

A complete 9-piece dress set by Krementz, worked in 14K yellow and white gold with mother-of-pearl and seed pearls. Each face features a disc of mother-of-pearl with lustrous iridescence centering a small pearl and surrounded by an engraved border of white gold. The backs of the faces and the mechanical parts are worked in yellow gold. The set includes a pair of double-sided cufflinks, three shirt studs and four vest buttons. Today, many men would opt to wear the larger vest buttons as shirt studs, but it can be handy to have the full set for white tie occasions. Complete sets are quite uncommon. Each piece is stamped “14K” and has Krementz’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; vest buttons, 15/32” diameter; shirt studs, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no flaking to mother-of-pearl.