Catalog (2433)

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

A beautiful 18K gold fancy-link long chain necklace. The links are fashioned in an ornate Renaissance revival style. The chain can be worn at full length, or the clasp can be attached to an open link partway down the necklace and a pendant suspended from the final link. The necklace is marked twice with French 18K marks and an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 30-1/2” long. Weight: 18.3 grams.

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A cute, diminutive Victorian fob seal in the form of a silver toga-clad monkey sitting atop a gold base. His eyes are set with tiny cabochon garnets. The base is formed from a faceted carnelian and has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: Probably France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original, no engraving on seal. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16” x 1” tall. Weight: 4.2 gr.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the baton faces very finely and ornately engraved in a foliate pattern. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 11/16” long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A classic pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks featuring high-domed cabochons of carnelian and aventurine quartz set simply in silver collets. The faces are joined with removable connectors. The color contrast of the gems is rather striking. The faces are marked “830”.

Scandinavia (excluding Denmark), ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2” diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 9.72 cts; aventurine, 12.18 cts.

A stunning French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold necklace comprising three large and four small gold plaques ornately engraved in a pattern of daisies and foliage. The links are set off at either end with a fancy baton-link chain. The plaques are exquisitely detailed and even the backs are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the daisies—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. In Victorian flower symbolism, the daisy was used to communicate innocence, purity and loyal love. The necklace is delicate, yet has surprising weight because the floral plaques are solid. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 17"; large plaques, 1" x 1/2". Weight: 17.2 gr.

A nice, heavy pair of figural 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the faces designed as a golf bag with a selection of clubs. The cufflinks are finished with nice details such as the grooves on the irons and the textured surface of the bags. The faces are connected to an older style of toggle backs. The backs are stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 15/16” long. Weight: 9.2 gr.

A pair of vintage sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. The double baton faces are engraved in a tree bark motif and are connected by chains. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes†and bears appropriate French silver marks. They are also stamped with the silversmith’s hallmark. This is an early design that hasn't been in production in 80 years or more.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: cufflinks, excellent; box, excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13/16†long. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A very uncommon pair of 14K yellow gold stirrup-style flip-up cufflinks, with one face of each set with a golf-themed reverse-carved Essex crystal. The golfers depicted in each crystal are wearing old-fashioned golf clothing. These are the first Essex cufflinks we’ve encountered in the flip-up style. The connectors are stamped “14Kâ€. They are likely by Krementz or Larter.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no moisture damage or scratches to crystals. Dimensions: faces, 19/32†diameter. Weight: 11.5 gr.

A lovely double-sided 18K gold and crystal locket, the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVA style. The round faceted crystal covers are suspended in a diamond-shaped open frame. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the locket's contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or some other memento on the back. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more private image on the other. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. Fully stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail).

A heavy pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces edged in a border of channel-set rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The gold surfaces have a lightly, engraved Florentine finish ideal for monogramming. The toggle backs are marked "14K". Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Weight: 16.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.78 carats.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The chain comprises alternating large and small oval links, each inset with an ornate scrolling pattern with millgrained accents. The design is reminiscent of the stone tracery separating the panels in a Gothic stained glass window. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular throughout the Second Empire and into the Belle Epoque. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 29-1/4" long. Weight: 27.1 gr.

A lovely Art Deco cameo glass perfume bottle with rare amethyst glass casing in "Design No 8039" by Cristalleries de Nancy. The design features sprays of stylized poppies against a frosted background. The cameo design is accented with cut details at the shoulder and at the top of the hollow-blown stopper. The base is acid-stamped “Cristal Nancy France.” This design was made in several different overlay colors including green, cobalt blue and ruby, but amethyst appears to be the rarest. The design was probably created by Auguste Houillon, the company's artistic director.

Cristalleries de Nancy was established in 1921 and after winning the gold medal at the 1925 Art Deco Exhibition in Paris, it became the primary challenger to Daum during the Art Deco era. Luxury perfume bottles and dresser accessories were the company’s specialty. The firm closed in 1934.

Origin: France, 1921-34. Condition: excellent; no chips or cracks to the bottle; a small moon on the bottom edge of the stopper. Dimensions: 6” tall.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces shaped as a convex curve of gold flanked on either side by square cut natural rubies. The superbly-matched rubies have excellent color and clarity, with no indications of heat or other treatment. The nature of the microscopic inclusions suggests Burma as the region of origin. We have seen a duplicate pair of these cufflinks, except set with sapphires, that were signed "Cartier NY". Cartier's New York store retailed jewelry made by various manufacturers such as Larter and Krementz. Sometimes they were marked with Cartier's retailer mark and sometimes not. Stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 3/4". Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.92 cts.

An elegant teardrop-shaped 19K yellow gold locket, the front cover set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and pearls in a pretty floral pattern. The gemstones have bright color that contrasts nicely with the high karat gold. The front cover has the slightly matte Russian finish sometimes seen in the late 19th century, while the back cover is polished. The bail is stamped with Hungarian marks for 18K and with other continental marks for 19.2K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no monograms, two extremely shallow dings on the back cover (only visible from the inside). Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-3/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .03 ct; sapphire, .10 ct; diamond, .13 ct.

A handsome pair of French silver Art Nouveau cufflinks, the faces decorated with a young woman against a spider web background. In Art Nouveau jewelry, the spider web motif was meant to symbolize entrapment and danger—in this case as a counterpoint to the maiden who suggests innocence. The outer edges of the faces follow the geometric shape of the spider web at the top, but are more rounded at the bottom of the design where the woman’s hair and clothing flows. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs engraved in a whiplash curve motif. The cufflinks are illegibly stamped with the maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original, very good detail. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 3.9 gr.