Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories: Gold (428)

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup (étrier) cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the gold mesh sides and the unusual decorative shape of the crossbar. The cufflinks are marked with indistinct French master goldsmith’s marks. We have had an identical pair once before, in their original fitted Olga Tritt box. As a French émigré, Tritt manufactured her own line of jewelry and retailed high-quality French jewelry at her Park Avenue boutique.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21 x 24 mm (13/16 x 31/32 in). Weight: 17.9 gr.

A very attractive pair of Art Deco 14K white gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces set with plaques of rich translucent green chalcedony. The white gold borders are enhanced with engraving. Art Deco cufflinks set with green stones are difficult to find. The connectors are marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" X 13/32". Weight: 3.9 grams.

A nice pair of Victorian double-sided 14K yellow gold dumbbell cufflinks set with oval cabochon almandine garnets. The stones have nice, rich red coloring that picks up on the slightly rosy tint of the gold. The cufflinks are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.0 carats.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

A handsome dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs. The 14K yellow gold faces have geometric decoration and feature bead-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are estimated at SI2 clarity and J-K color. Those in the studs are approximately 1/4 carat each, and those in the cufflinks are approximately 1/8 carat each. The studs have a spring mechanism and the cufflinks have toggle backs. Each piece is marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” x 17/32”; studs, 5/16” x 5/16”. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat. Weight: 16.0 grams.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with navette-shaped cabochons of lapis lazuli within surrounding gold borders enhanced with foliate engraving. The lapis is of the finest quality—known as Afghan lapis—with a rich dark violet-blue color. There are very few of the gold-colored flecks of pyrite which actually denote a lower quality of lapis. The faces are attached with arched connectors to bean backs. The connectors are marked for 14K and have the maker's mark for Wordley, Alsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; one bean back has a very slightly flattened area that would be positioned on the inside of the wrist when the cufflinks are being worn. Dimensions: 3/4" x 7/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided button-style cufflinks, the round faces formed from discs of mother-of-pearl surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel. Each face is centered with yellow gold “stitches”. The mother-of-pearl has nice iridescence. The faces are joined by removable connectors. Marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a large and a small button, complete with raised gold beads to suggest the stitches. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” & 9/16” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A very fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by David Webb. The round faces are shaped as compressed spheres (imagine an old-fashioned flying saucer) bisected by pairs of parallel raised bars. Each face is centered with a round brilliant blue sapphire bezel-set in platinum. The smaller, back faces are hinged so they can easily be put through a cuff. The gold and platinum have a very elegant brushed texture that contrasts beautifully with the sapphires. The sapphires are of the very finest quality, graded as medium vivid blue (B5/6). The clarity is eye-clean and the stones have not been subjected to heat treatment. The cufflinks are quite heavy. Each is marked "Webb" and "18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" diameter. Weight: 25.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.5 carat.

A superb pair of Austrian Art Deco cufflinks, worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are centered with moonstone cabochons surrounded by round mixed-cut rubties. The moonstones have fine bluish color and strong adularescence that contrasts beautifully with the richness of the rubies. The rubies are natural and show no signs of heat treatment. The stones are graded as medium-dark, vivid strong purplish red with eye-clean to slightly included clarity. The faces are joined by chains to baton-style backs. The combination of moonstone and ruby was particularly popular during the first quarter of the 20th century, but it's rarely seen with an effect as pleasing as this. Both cufflinks are hallmarked with Austrian hallmarks used in the provinces near Dresden from 1922 until 1925.

Origin: Austria, 1922-25. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 3.4 cts; ruby, 1.43 cts.

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold mesh cufflinks, the faces set with large amethysts cut into sugarloaf cabochons. Mesh cufflinks, intended to wrap around the outside edge of the cuff were quite popular in the 1950s and it was a style favored by Meister—one of Switzerland’s most exclusive jewelers. The amethysts are of very fine quality, graded as dark vivid Purple in color (P7/6) with eye-clean clarity and excellent symmetry and polish. The faces are backed by snap mechanisms that hold the cufflinks in place. The mesh is constructed of very fine links for a smooth, flexible feel. Each cufflink is marked “Meister” and “EM 750”.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 11 x 14 mm. Weight: 24.29 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.72 cts.

A classic pair of Hermes 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "Etrier" design. Each hinged end is in the form of a stirrup. The connectors are signed "Hermes", have serial numbers and are fully marked with appropriate French 18K gold marks. Etrier cufflinks in gold are no longer available at Hermes. The same design in sterling silver currently retails for $970. A similar design in gold, but with no moveable parts currently retails for $4750.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 15.8 grams.

A superb pair of late Victorian or Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with reverse-carved and painted Essex crystals depicting a cockfight. Cufflinks depicting a cockfight are quite rare. The workmanship in this pair is outstanding. The carving is deep and the painting is expertly done. The mother-of-pearl backing is particularly lustrous with fine iridescence. The crystals are simply set in gold frames attached with bar connectors marked "14K".

At the turn of the century, cockfighting was considered a gentleman's sport and images from fights appeared on a variety of gentlemen's accessories and barware. The images tell the story of the whole match. One crystal shows the roosters meeting for the first time; the second shows one rooster attacking; the third shows the counter-attack; and the final crystal shows the winning rooster crowing over his vanquished enemy.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; one face has very faint moisture marks on the mother-of-pearl, but no paint loss. Size: faces, 11/16" x 9/16". Weight: 13.3 grams.

A rare pair of mid-century haute couture cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. Each face comprises a carved jadeite bead simply mounted on a gold post. The backs are slightly arched gold bars. The jadeite beads are carved in a floral pattern and are done so in a way that they are carved completely through from one side to another. It’s likely that the cufflinks were constructed from an antique strand of jadeite beads. The jade has noticeable mottling in natural, strongly saturated shades of dark, medium and light green. The translucency is fair. Magnification and absorption spectra show no signs of dye. The connectors are signed “Pierre Cardin†and are fully hallmarked with French 18K marks. Pierre Cardin designed a very limited line of fine jewels in the 1950s and 60s. They were sold only at the couturier’s main store and are quite difficult to find now. Origin: Paris, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracks or chips. Size: 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A superb pair of French Art Deco 18K gold and tourmaline cufflinks in the Egyptian Revival taste that was spurred by the discovery Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922. Each face is simply set with a bluish-green tourmaline carved into the shape of an ancient Egyptian scarab. The faces are connected with chains to barbell backs. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16 x 18 mm (5/8 x 23/32 in). Weight: 10.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 30.7 cts.

A very fine pair of late Edwardian/Deco transitional cufflinks, the 14K yellow gold faces set with scissor-cut citrines, amethyst and green tourmaline. Each of the stones fits into a gallery beautifully engraved in a scrolled motif. Most unusually, instead of traditional prongs, the stones are held in place by lozenge-shaped plaques of platinum, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The stones have very attractive color and excellent clarity. The connectors are removable. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 6.36 cts; amethyst, 3.17 cts; tourmaline, 3.68 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A very fine vintage pair of double-sided cufflinks and three matching shirt studs by Tiffany & Co. The classic design features round brilliant cut sapphires surrounded by a wide, flat gold border finely incised with lines radiating outward toward the edges. The sapphires have the most desirable color (B6/6--medium dark vivid blue) and have eye-clean clarity. The stones show no indication of heat or other treatment. Each piece is marked "Tiffany & Co." and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 19/32" diameter; studs, 3/8" diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.932 carats.

A superb pair of vintage couture 18K yellow gold and carnelian cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. The square faces, with rounded corners, support round carnelian plaques of very rich color. The gold structure beneath the carnelian shows through the translucent gemstones to create a strong geometric pattern typical of Cardin's aesthetic. Cardin was fascinated by the juxtaposition of squares and circles beginning with his famous "Bubble Dress" in 1954, and he returned to the theme repeatedly over the next two decades. The faces are attached with solid arched connectors to spherical backs.

In the 1960's, Cardin collaborated with a handful of young modernist jewelry designers such as Jean Dinh Van to create fine jewelry items. There were never many of these designs, and they were only sold at Cardin's flagship couture boutique in Paris. Some of these rare designs have now entered the permanent holdings of the French national jewelry collection at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The cufflinks are signed "P. Cardin" and are fully hallmarked with appropriate French stamps for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8 x 5/8". Weight: 15.1 grams.