Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories: Gold (429)

A superb dress set, comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, by Tiffany & Co. Each face is fashioned from a disc of abalone centering a old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The borders of the faces are worked in platinum enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, VS clarity. The abalone has deep luster with strong overtones of iridescent red, green and orange. Cufflinks made from abablone are much less common than those made from gray or white mother-of-pearl. The added sparkle from the engraved platinum contrasts nicely. The backs and findings are worked in 14K yellow gold, but only the platinum shows when being worn. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co./14K” and “Plat. & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 13.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

An incredible pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The front faces of the double-sided cufflinks are pave-set in platinum with round brilliant diamonds (G color, VS1 clarity) surrounded by a border of superb small round mixed cut sapphires in a medium vivid blue color (B5/6). The sapphires have the intensity of fine Burmese material and do not appear to have any enhancements. The yellow gold borders are painstakingly handworked in a stippled pattern which is repeated on the entirety of the back faces. The faces are joined by solid connectors and the back faces are hinged. The back faces are marked “Tiffany & Co. 18K” and have inventory numbers. Cufflinks of this quality were never part of Tiffany’s catalog wares and were generally only available at the flagship store and by special order. The cufflinks are presented in their Tiffany & Co. presentation box.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 1/2". Weight: 28.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, 1.2 carats.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Soren Georg Jensen for the firm founded by his father, Georg Jensen. Designed in 1962, during his first year as the firm's artistic director, these cufflinks are a clear example of the stripped-down, modernist sculptural direction the younger Jensen wanted to pursue. Jensen's gold jewelry is considerably rarer than silver, and was often retailed by Jensen at ten times the price of the same design in silver. The cufflinks are appropriately hallmarked and have the design number "1091".

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 17.4 grams.

A fine pair of Boucheron cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold, the oval faces centered with richly-colored citrines. The gold surfaces are worked in a wavy ridged pattern, and the citrines are ingenuously fantasy-cut in the same style. The quality of workmanship is evidenced in the manner in which the carving of the citrines matches exactly to the ridges of the gold settings where the two meet. THe backs are hinged. The connectors are fully marked with Boucheron's retailer and marker's mark, the 18K gold standard and serial numbers.

Origin: France. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

A very rare pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. designed as coiled dolphin-like sea monsters. The scales are highlighted with translucent blue champleve enamel and the eyes are set with cabochon rubies. The cufflinks are hinged and clasp together by inserting the creature's tail into its own jaws. The interior of each cufflink is marked "Tiffany 18K". There is no designer mark, but the work is very similar in style, quality and aesthetic to the designs created by Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin in the 1960s.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, a 1/32" nick to the enamel on one cufflink. Size: 1" x 1-18". Weight: 21.6 grams.

An extremely heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks made by Louis Tamis & Sons and retailed by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are simply decorated with parallel ribbed surfaces. The faces are joined by solid hinged connectors. The cufflinks are very heavy and have a classic, masculine appeal. Tamis was one of New York’s most important goldsmiths and supplied goods to Tiffany, Cartier and Verdura among others. Each cufflink is marked “14K” and has Tamis’ maker’s mark and Tiffany’s retailer mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams.

A very attractive pair of Art Deco 14K white gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces set with plaques of rich translucent green chalcedony. The white gold borders are enhanced with engraving. Art Deco cufflinks set with green stones are difficult to find. The connectors are marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" X 13/32". Weight: 3.9 grams.

A nice pair of Edwardian double-sided cufflinks worked in platinum over 14K gold. The hexagonal faces are decorated with ornate engine-turned engraving and are set with French-cut blue sapphires with a strongly violet tint to the blue. The backs of the faces are marked "Plat on 14K" and the connectors bear a maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .21 cts.

A heavy, outstanding pair of Victorian figural cufflinks in the form of acorns and oak branches, all worked in 14K yellow gold. The larger front faces are fashioned as highly detailed acorns, while the backs are branches. The quality of engraving is excellent and really brings out the subtlest textural details. In the Victorian "language of flowers", the acorn symbolized life and immortality while the oak tree and its branches represented strength and virility. The faces are joined by their original chain connectors. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: acorns, 27/32" x 15/32". Weight: 11.7 grams.

A very nice pair of 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks by L. E. Garrigus & Co. The oval faces center buff-cut amethysts surrounded by gold borders ornately engraved in a foliate pattern. The smooth upper domes of the amethysts contrast nicely with the faceted pavilions that add a little shimmer. The connectors are stamped with Garrigus' 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16 x 9/16 inch. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.6 carats.

A fine pair of Edwardian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as pairs of coiled snakes. Two of the snakes have an old European cut diamond set into its head, while the other two have a round emerald. In Victorian symbology, the coiled snake represented eternity, and a pair of snakes coiled together suggested “eternal love.” The snaked as attached by chains to baton backs worked in a twisted motif, itself suggestive of the coiled snakes. The backs are marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: faces, 17 x 15 mm (5/8 x 9/16 in). Weight: 10.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 ct; emerald, .035 ct.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a large and a small button, complete with raised gold beads to suggest the stitches. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” & 9/16” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A very fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by David Webb. The round faces are shaped as compressed spheres (imagine an old-fashioned flying saucer) bisected by pairs of parallel raised bars. Each face is centered with a round brilliant blue sapphire bezel-set in platinum. The smaller, back faces are hinged so they can easily be put through a cuff. The gold and platinum have a very elegant brushed texture that contrasts beautifully with the sapphires. The sapphires are of the very finest quality, graded as medium vivid blue (B5/6). The clarity is eye-clean and the stones have not been subjected to heat treatment. The cufflinks are quite heavy. Each is marked "Webb" and "18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" diameter. Weight: 25.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.5 carat.

A classic pair of Hermes 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "Etrier" design. Each hinged end is in the form of a stirrup. The connectors are signed "Hermes", have serial numbers and are fully marked with appropriate French 18K gold marks. Etrier cufflinks in gold are no longer available at Hermes. The same design in sterling silver currently retails for $970. A similar design in gold, but with no moveable parts currently retails for $4750.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 15.8 grams.

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup (étrier) cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the gold mesh sides and the unusual decorative shape of the crossbar. The cufflinks are marked with indistinct French master goldsmith’s marks. We have had an identical pair once before, in their original fitted Olga Tritt box. As a French émigré, Tritt manufactured her own line of jewelry and retailed high-quality French jewelry at her Park Avenue boutique.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21 x 24 mm (13/16 x 31/32 in). Weight: 17.9 gr.

A very good pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Alfred Dunhill. The faces resemble branches of coral. Dunhill produces the vast majority of its cufflinks in sterling silver and the 18K gold versions are very rare. The coral design, in general, is hard to find because it was made for only a short time around 2005. The cufflinks are constructed with the connector set off-center, so the link lies flat against the cuff. The toggle back is Dunhill’s classic small toggle with the company’s insignia. The connectors are fully stamped with English convention hallmarks for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Dunhill.

Origin: England, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4". Weight: 17.6 grams.

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup or “étrillé” cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the width of the gold mesh and their relative weightiness. The closing mechanism is a bit more decorative than most, even though it can’t be seen when the cufflinks are in place. The mechanism is marked with a French jeweler’s mark indicating 18K. The cufflinks are presented in their original box, the inside of the lid imprinted with Olga Tritt’s logo and Park Avenue address.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 7/8” x 5/16” wide. Weight: 25.0 grams.

Of the thousands of cufflinks we’ve handled over the years, this is the first pair of Art Nouveau bean-back cufflinks we’ve ever seen that have a matching design worked on both the primary face and the bean back. The 14K yellow gold links are worked with a repousse design of a maiden wearing an ornate headdress filled with the scrolls and whiplash curves typical of Art Nouveau design. The connectors are hallmarked by Krementz and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp details. Size: large faces, 3/4” x 9/16; small faces, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 5.2 grams.

A very nice pair of Victorian cufflinks, the rectangular faces with canted corners and decorated with a plain band bisecting a field decorated with rococo foliate engraving. This is a design type more often seen on English cufflinks of the period, and it has a faintly heraldic appearance. The plain band, in fact, would have been ideal for a monogram. The connectors are marked 14K and also have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Howe.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogramed. Dimensions: 11/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs of this pair are accented in a severely geometric ridged pattern and their slight tapering prevents the appearance of being overly heavy. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring an ornate pattern of woven gold “threads”. The faces are joined by chains. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A superb pair of Austrian Art Deco cufflinks, worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are centered with moonstone cabochons surrounded by round mixed-cut rubties. The moonstones have fine bluish color and strong adularescence that contrasts beautifully with the richness of the rubies. The rubies are natural and show no signs of heat treatment. The stones are graded as medium-dark, vivid strong purplish red with eye-clean to slightly included clarity. The faces are joined by chains to baton-style backs. The combination of moonstone and ruby was particularly popular during the first quarter of the 20th century, but it's rarely seen with an effect as pleasing as this. Both cufflinks are hallmarked with Austrian hallmarks used in the provinces near Dresden from 1922 until 1925.

Origin: Austria, 1922-25. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 3.4 cts; ruby, 1.43 cts.

An extraordinarily fine pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces in the form of navette-shaped buttons carved from crystal opal. The faces are accented with silver “stitches”, each accented with a five small rose cut diamonds. The opals have clear body color and the play-of-color is predominantly shades of green and blue with occasional flecks of orangy-red. The faces are connected by gold chains to gold torpedo backs. The use of carved opal as a button motif is most unusual, as is the use of crystal open rather than the more common white opal. The overall effect is subtle and very sophisticated. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 4.8 gr.

A very rare early pair of double-sided cufflinks, the navette-shaped faces centered with Persian turquoise cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The faces are joined with 15K yellow gold chains. Diamonds in Georgian jewelry are nearly always set in silver, as they are in this case. The silver’s light color brings out the glitter of the rose cut diamonds and also nicely accents the rich color of the turquoise. The diamonds are set in an open back “a jour” setting that was developed toward the end of the 18th century, but was not commonly used until the early Victorian era. The extra-long chains suggest that the cufflinks were probably intended for use on the cuffs of a coat, rather than a shirt, to accommodate the thick folds of velvet or brocade fabric. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 1/2" x 5/16”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .80 carat; turquoise, 3.96 cts.

An extremely attractive pair of 14K white gold cufflinks by Carrington. Each round face is set with a mother-of-pearl disc engraved in a laurel wreath pattern, surrounding a center round diamond and bordered with 24 rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, graded as I/J color and SI2 clarity. The faces are attached by chains to heavy torpedo backs. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 16 mm (5/8 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct. Weight: 12.0 gr.

NOTE: We also have a set of three shirt studs by Krementz (Item #1233392) that, although not a perfect match to the cufflinks, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set.

An extraordinary gentleman's dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with cabochon cut blue sapphires. The design is very simple and sophisticated. The sapphires are of unusually fine quality to be cut en cabochon. Using the Gemological Institute of America's grading system, they are medium-dark, vivid strongly violetish-blue with excellent symmetry and polish, and very good clarity. The set was retailed by Cabochon Jewellers, Bangkok's most luxurious jeweler, located in the lobby of The Oriental Hotel. The set is accompanied by two original bills of sale, indicating the weight of the gemstones. Each piece is marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Thailand, ca. 1978. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16" x 15/32"; studs, 1/2" x 13/32". Weight: 24.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.51 carats (cufflinks, 9.53 cts; studs, 5.98 cts).

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with cabochon agates. The variety of agate is called “landscape agate” because the colors and markings resemble painted landscapes. These particular stones suggest colorful sunsets behind wooded landscapes. The bezel settings are finished with fine millegraining. The connectors are marked 14K and have an unknown American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 10.4 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

A very uncommon pair of 14K yellow gold stirrup-style flip-up cufflinks, with one face of each set with a golf-themed reverse-carved Essex crystal. The golfers depicted in each crystal are wearing old-fashioned golf clothing. These are the first Essex cufflinks we’ve encountered in the flip-up style. The connectors are stamped “14Kâ€. They are likely by Krementz or Larter.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no moisture damage or scratches to crystals. Dimensions: faces, 19/32†diameter. Weight: 11.5 gr.

A handsome pair of cufflinks, the faces featuring ancient silver Macedonian coins dating from the reign of Alexander the Great (336-323 B.C.). The obverse of the coins depicts Herakles (Hercules) wearing the skin of the Nemean lion. The reverse depicts a bow, quiver and club, and is inscribed with Alexander’s name. The coins are set in 14K yellow gold frames with ropetwist borders. The faces are connected by gold chains to the gold bar backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Coins, Macedonia, 336-323 B.C.; Settings, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 7.2 gr.

A very fine and heavy pair of vintage cufflinks featuring square faces worked in 18K yellow gold basketweave pattern with white gold accents. The faces are bordered with channel-set square cut sapphires. The stones are fine quality and are graded at medium dark, vivid blue in color, very good cut, and eye-clean clarity. The backs are hinged for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff and are designed in a basketweave pattern matching the fronts. The connectors are marked with French 18K gold export hallmarks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 19/32”. Weight: 13.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.34 carats.

A very fine five-piece 14K yellow gold and sapphire dress set by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each piece is fashioned as a reeded baton circled by a collar of channel-set blue sapphires. The sapphires are of superb slightly violetish-blue color, with medium tone and vivid saturation. One baton on each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting them through the cuff. Each shirt stud is signed "VCA NY", and is stamped with the serial number and "14K". The cufflinks are marked only "14K". Van Cleef employed several jewelers to manufacture their designs during this era, and it's not uncommon to find sets in which not every piece is marked by VCA.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, large faces, 15/16" long; small faces, 7/8" long; studs, 9/16" long. Weight: 24.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.37 carats.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the hexagonal faces fitted with round mother-of-pearl plaques centering gold lozenges set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have attractive color that accents the iridescence of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The faces are joined by solid bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8 in. diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .10 carat.

A handsome pair of Art Deco multistone cufflinks, the emerald cut green tourmaline, amethyst, yellow citrine and orange citrine simply set in yellow gold bezels. The stones have rich, even coloring, excellent brilliance and very good clarity. The faces and removable connectors are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark "MV in a hexagon" and "585" for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 7/16". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 6.28 cts; amethyst, 6.48 cts; citrine, 9.8 cts.

A very fine dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The connectors and stud findings are in 14K yellow gold. The sapphires have fine, vivid coloring and excellent clarity. The connectors are stamped with Krementz's hallmark and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 13.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .78 carat.