Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

An outstanding, oversized pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks fashioned as lengths of bamboo by Cartier. The surfaces are worked in the Florentine finish popular in mid-century jewelry. The "notches" in the bamboo are polished for nice contrast. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are marked "Cartier/18K/Italy" and have the serial number "26464".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 1-5/16" x 5/8"; back faces, 15/16" x 5/16". Weight: 23.3 grams.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single emerald that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich green color and internal characteristics of the emeralds to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold and is signed with Schepps’ hallmark. The cufflinks are accompanied by their original Schepps packaging. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 37.48 carats.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, the ends formed from lapis spheres carved in a traditional braided knot pattern. The gold connectors are decorated with a twist motif. The lapis has a evenly-distributed dark violetish-blue color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” long; beads, 11mm diameter. Weight: 9.0 gr.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold knot-style cufflinks set with blue sapphires by Boucheron. The four-lobed faces are formed by a rope-motif tied in an ornate knot. Each lobe features a bright blue round sapphire. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and medium blue color. The faces are joined by solid connectors to toggle backs decorated in a complementary twisted rope design. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and has appropriate serial numbers, 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.

An incredible pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The front faces of the double-sided cufflinks are pave-set in platinum with round brilliant diamonds (G color, VS1 clarity) surrounded by a border of superb small round mixed cut sapphires in a medium vivid blue color (B5/6). The sapphires have the intensity of fine Burmese material and do not appear to have any enhancements. The yellow gold borders are painstakingly handworked in a stippled pattern which is repeated on the entirety of the back faces. The faces are joined by solid connectors and the back faces are hinged. The back faces are marked “Tiffany & Co. 18K” and have inventory numbers. Cufflinks of this quality were never part of Tiffany’s catalog wares and were generally only available at the flagship store and by special order. The cufflinks are presented in their Tiffany & Co. presentation box.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 1/2". Weight: 28.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, 1.2 carats.

A classic pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks with knot ends by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks have substantial weight and are very comfortable to wear. Each connector is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16” diameter; smaller faces, 7/16” diameter.
• Weight: 21.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; original box.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single blue sapphire that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich violet-blue color and internal characteristics of the sapphires to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold, is signed with Schepps’ hallmark and has the design serial number. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 34.0 carats.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

A very nice pair of 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks, the batons worked with engraved reeding and each bound in a diagonal slash of gold with a hand-stippled surface. The baton faces are hinged so they can lie tightly against the cuff. The connectors are marked “18K Cherny”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8” long. Weight: 10.6 gr.

A handsome pair of Modernist 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of three-sided pyramids. Each side is has an incised border surrounding a bead-set round sapphire. The stones have very attractive cornflower blue color. The connectors to the toggle backs are stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 25/32" x 25/32" (20 x 20 mm)
• Weight: 11.0 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .28 carat.

A pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks with a classic 1960's brushed gold texture. The texture is worked in short sections oriented in random directions, giving the effect of leopard spots in racking light. The toggle backs are worked in a simple ribbed design. The connectors are signed "Cartier" and are also marked "Swiss Made/18K/750." The "Swiss Made" stamp is more often seen on watch cases and indicates that the cufflinks were made by one of Cartier's watchmakers, likely to match a watch dial.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 19/32" (15mm) x 19/32" (15mm). Weight: 13.4 grams.

A very attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs are decorated in an elegant herringbone weave pattern that creates just a little soft sparkle. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 13.0 grams.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of horse stirrups. The toggle backs are marked “585” and “Germany 14Kt” and have the maker’s mark “MV”.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 5/8”. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A classic pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising gold space-age swoops cradling oval cabochons of nephrite. The toggles are marked "14K" and have an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 9.16". Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.38 cts.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with 1-point diamonds. The faces are formed from entwined double tubular arches, and the diamonds are bead-set in a white gold swirl nestled between the arches. T he toggle backs are marked “14K”. The diamonds are nice quality, and their smaller size provides a little sparkle without being too flashy.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A heavy, handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with rubies by David Webb. The box-shaped front faces are each set with nine round brilliant-cut rubies. The gemstones have vivid pure red coloring and are unheated. The exposed areas of gold are finished with a hammered motif. The smaller, hinged back faces are hammered and are without gemstones. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K" and have French import marks.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: very good, all original; two rubies have small surface nicks visible upon very close examination at 10x magnification. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 23.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.64 cts.

A superb pair of vintage couture 18K yellow gold and carnelian cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. The square faces, with rounded corners, support round carnelian plaques of very rich color. The gold structure beneath the carnelian shows through the translucent gemstones to create a strong geometric pattern typical of Cardin's aesthetic. Cardin was fascinated by the juxtaposition of squares and circles beginning with his famous "Bubble Dress" in 1954, and he returned to the theme repeatedly over the next two decades. The faces are attached with solid arched connectors to spherical backs.

In the 1960's, Cardin collaborated with a handful of young modernist jewelry designers such as Jean Dinh Van to create fine jewelry items. There were never many of these designs, and they were only sold at Cardin's flagship couture boutique in Paris. Some of these rare designs have now entered the permanent holdings of the French national jewelry collection at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The cufflinks are signed "P. Cardin" and are fully hallmarked with appropriate French stamps for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8 x 5/8". Weight: 15.1 grams.