Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A nice pair of oval-faced cufflinks worked in platinum over 18K gold, each face set with a 4-pt single-cut diamond and a 4-pt square step cut blue sapphire. The stones are set on the bias and are highlighted with raised platinum bars that are slightly polished to contrast with the matte finish of the surround platinum background. The faces are connected by chains to gold torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: probably continental Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original, one of the torpedo backs has a small ding on the side. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 carat; sapphire, .08 carat.

An extremely fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Each square face is centered with a gypsy-set old European cut diamond, and has square cut blue sapphires at each corner. The stones have excellent color and clarity, especially the sapphires, which are bright blue. The platinum is finished with a matte surface, causing the gemstones to seem even more vibrant. The faces have pierced galleries around the edges and are attached to baton backs with chains. The outer surface of the batons are also worked in matte platinum. The geometric styling of these cufflinks is a very good example of early Art Deco.

Origin: Europe, possibly France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/32" x 15/32". Weight: 7.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces comprising rectangular black onyx plaques centered with 1/2-carat round brilliant-cut diamonds in collet settings. The ends of the onyx tablets are finished with highly polished rounded platinum shoulders with ridged decoration. This same decorative element appears on the baton backs. The diamonds are of exceptional quality with strong fire. The color is estimated at E/F and the clarity at VVS1. The cufflinks are masterfully constructed and are quite heavy. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 13/32” (16 x 10 mm). Weight: 14.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

A phenomenal and very heavy Art Deco dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three matching shirt studs. The faces have a slightly rounded triangular outline and are trisected by raised bands of channel-set square step-cut blue sapphires. The points where the sapphire bands meet are collet-set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The visual effect is reminiscent of airplane propellers. The natural sapphires have medium-dark, vividly saturated, slightly violetish-blue color. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS clarity. The platinum surfaces have a slightly matte finish. Each face is stamped "10% Irid/90% Plat". The spring mechanism on the backs of the studs are 14K white gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 5/8" x 5/8"; studs, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 42.89 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .90 carat; sapphire, 2.75 carats.

A wonderful pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Ravinet d Enfert, probably retailed by Hermès. Each of the faces is crafted as a different suite in a deck of cards and is finished with red or black opaque enamel. The faces are connected with chains. Each cufflink is marked for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Ravinet d’Enfert. Like most other luxury houses, Hermès did not make their own jewelry, but retailed pieces designed and manufactured by Ravinet d’Enfert to their specifications. This pair of cufflinks is not signed Hermès, but was mostly likely sold through the Paris shop.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2” Weight: 7.1 gr.

A handsome pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with an applied vine and berry motif slightly reminiscent of Jensen's "Blossom" pattern. The faces are joined by solid connectors to the hinged backs that are simply decorated with scored parallel lines. The connectors are marked "930S/Sterling" and have the maker's mark "W. KR".

Origin: Scandinavia, probably Denmark or Norway, ca. 1940. Size: 23/32" x 17/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

Terrifically stylish Art Deco cufflinks fashioned as domed silver discs with 14K gold appliqués reminiscent of Georg Jensen’s “Blossom” designs. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The connectors are marked “900”.

Origin: probably Denmark, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: larger faces, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 10.0 grams.

A handsome and unusual pair of Art Deco silver cufflinks, the round faces decorated with mother-of-pearl disc centered with carnelian cabochons. The discs are engraved with concentric rings. The mother-of-pearl is a very nice contrast to the luminous orange-reddish carnelian. The backs of the faces are marked "830" for the silver content and the removable connectors are marked "Germany".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 10.0 cts.

An interesting pair of American sterling silver Art Deco cufflinks, each face featuring a stylized leaf. The design has a deeply three-dimensional sculptural quality. The design appears to be in the Skonvirke style--the Scandinavian expression of Art Nouveau, but the cufflinks are definitely American. The back of each face is signed "NAE" or "MAE" and the toggles are marked "Sterling".

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 12.1 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier in the 1920s. The cufflinks bear Swiss import hallmarks used until 1934, and are stamped "935" indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: faces, 11/32"(15 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 10.0 grams.

A nice pair of sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier. The cufflinks bear Swiss import marks used until 1934 and are stamped "935", indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A terrific pair of Art Deco style 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The eight-sided front faces are decorated with white gold chevrons in a slightly matte finish that contrast beautifully with the surrounding yellow gold. The back faces are yellow gold ovals with tapered ends. The connectors are marked with Italian hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K white gold cufflinks, the faces set with octagonal mother-of-pearl plaques centered by small square blue sapphires. The mother-of-pearl surfaces are finely crosshatched to match the engraving of the gold at the corners. The faces are joined by chains. Marked "18Ct."

Origin: England, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.0 grams

An attractive pair of Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces decorated with a repousse design featuring a lion’s head. The great cat’s mouth is open in mid-roar and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with sinuous grasses that mimic the lion’s flowing mane. The backs are marked “10K H.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1/2" x 3/4". Weight: 4.1 grams.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as fearsome lion-like gargoyles. Each snarling mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond, and the eyes are set with small emerald cabochons. The fur is pierced and detailed in a way that suggests the stone fretwork of Gothic cathedrals. The faces are joined by arch connectors to bean backs. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Schira Bros. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1 x 9/16 inch. Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A pair of classic Art Nouveau 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces with repousse decoration depicting a long-haired maiden. The long hair and star-set old European cut diamonds discreetly hide any of her naughty bits. The connectors are stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 9/16”
• Weight: 4.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A heavy pair of 14K gold cufflinks, the faces decorated with a sort of shield-shaped device against a stippled background. The influence of the Art Nouveau aesthetic can be seen in the assymetrical design of the shields. The semi-matte finish of the stippling contrasts nicely with the more polished shield. The backs marked "14K" and have Kirby's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" x 1/2"
• Weight: 9.8 grams

A rare pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces with repousse decoration representing Poseidon (“Neptune”), god of the sea. The god is identifiable by the trident that forms his crown. The background at first appears to be a simple stippled pattern, but careful examination shows that the background is actually worked in a very fine pattern of fish scales. Mythollogical subjects were very popular in men’s jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but this is the first time we’ve seen cufflinks with the image of Poseidon. The bean backs are marked by an unidentified American maker and are stamped “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 11/16” x 1/2". Weight: 5.3 grams.