Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Edwardian (65)

A buff-cut oval amethyst perfectly offsets the superb gold setting in this Edwardian 14K gold gentleman’s ring. The stone sits in a high setting that is intricately engraved with classic motifs such as pendant bellflowers, swags, and fans that bridge the Edwardian period into early Art Deco. The ring is large, but the relatively light color of the amethyst and the use of smooth buff cut instead of full faceting keeps it from being overpowering. A woman could easily wear the ring, as well. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: shank tapering from 5/32” at the back to 1/2" wide at the front; 1/4” height from finger
• Finger Size: 9-1/2
• Weight: 8.29 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 4.11 carats

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

14K gold ring featuring a detailed portrait of a Native American wearing a feathered headdress. The portrait is surrounded by a twisted rope border. Originally an Edwardian bar pin, the ring has been fashioned with the original pin's scrolled ends connecting to the medallion. The reverse is marked "585 Pr FSH" for 14K gold.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: crown, 13/16" diamter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/2.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamond in an openwork mounting. The diamond crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 3/8" (9x9mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .11 ct.

A classic late Victorian 14K yellow gold curb link chain bracelet with collet-set oval amethyst stations. The amethysts have nicely saturated violet color. Marked 14K.

• America, circa 1900
• 9 1/2" long
• Excellent condition
• 6.75 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.66 carats

An elegant pair of earrings featuring Type A (untreated) green jadeite beads and 14K yellow gold beads taken from an ornate antique Chinese necklace (ca. 1900) that was far too worn to salvage. The jadeite beads are semi-translucent, with even coloring and moderately-fine texture. The gold beads have applied vermicelli decoration. The earrings are finished with 14K yellow gold posts and clutches. Other elements taken from the same antique necklace can be seen in Items #1350538, Origin: China, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: beads, 6.2mm diameter; overall length, 1-3/16". NOTE: Other pieces created from the original antique necklace include Items #1350538, #1344595, #1350547 and 1350553.

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

A stunning late Victorian or Edwardian reverse carved crystal depicting a collie dog. The crystal is set in an alternating border of French cut rubies and rose cut diamonds. Following the practice of the period, the rubies are set in gold, whereas the diamonds are set in platinum--a technique used to enhance the colors of the stones. The crystal is expertly carved and painted with tremendous depth and detail. Reverse carved crystals are most often set in plain gold mountings and it is quite difficult to find examples set with gemstones. The back of the pin retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 ct; ruby, 1.30 cts.

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with ornate engine-turned engraving in a sunburst pattern with laurel leaf borders. The front cover is centered with a blue sapphire cabochon with rich coloring. The locket’s back cover is more simply decorated with engine-turned stripes. Even the interior edges, which are hidden from view, are engraved in a foliate pattern. The locket is suspended from its original laurel leaf jump ring that matches the border of the front cover. The interior retains both of the original portrait frames. The overall style is typical of French or Russian jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-3/16” diameter (excluding jump ring). Approximate Sapphire Weight: .24 cts. Weight: 10.3 gr.

A spectacular 14K gold horsehoe brooch updated as an elegant pendant necklace. The sapphires are very fine quality with bright violet-blue color ad eye-clean clarity. There is no evidence of heat treatment. The sapphires alternate with pearls of similarly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K. When turned points up, horseshoes collect and capture good luck!

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-5/8" x 1-7/16"; length, 21-1/4"
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.31 carats
• Weight: 9.4 grams.

An extraordinary and rare 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet by Krementz adorned with enameled white and pale blue forget-me-nots. Krementz made some of the best Art Nouveau enameled jewelry, and continued producing enamels well into the 20th century. Blue and white forget-me-nots, a particularly popular motif in the early 1900s, frequently appeared in small pins and pendants. This piece, however, is the first bangle bracelet we've seen. Bangle bracelets are notoriously subject to damage and it is amazing that the enamel on this bracelet has survived in mint condition. The enameled flowers are accented with engraved foliage and a stippled background. The interior is hallmarked by Krementz and is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1905.

Condition: Enamel is mint, some scratches on the inside of the gold band.

Size: 1/4" wide; opening, 2-9/16" x 2-1/4"; interior circumference, 7-7/16".

Weight: 9.0 grams.

A very rare 14K yellow gold and enamel pin in the form of an oyster shell complete with a small pearl. The enamel is beautifully worked in shades of greenish- and silvery-grey. The shell is depicted as slightly opened with pearl resting along the opened edge. The back of the pin is stamped with the 14K gold hallmark of Alberts & Son, Inc., one of the Newark jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 7/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.