Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period (171)

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A pretty 10K yellow and rose gold half-hoop wedding band, the front decorated with finely engraved roses. The flower petals are worked in rose gold for added contrast and the entire design is recessed to prevent wear to the carving. The interior of the shank is marked "10K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition:excellent
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide tapering to 1/8" at the back
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold and ruby heart-shaped love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is designed in a softly rounded font introduced in 1975. The size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark. It is also signed "Augis."

• Origin: France, 1969.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: 5/8” x 11/16" (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 1.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .005 carat.

A delightful 14K yellow gold money clip in the form of a wishbone. The back of the clip is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark. It is interesting to note that we've seen this exact money clip with a Cartier hallmark. Leading houses such as Cartier and Tiffany often bought gold objects such as money clips and cufflinks from the better manufacturing jewelers in the New York and Newark area.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" x 1-3/16". Weight: 12.1 grams.

A very cute and heavy 14K yellow gold dachshund pin, the gold body accented with small emerald eyes and a white gold collar studded with small diamonds. The pin is very finely modeled with clear definitions of musculature and the Florentine engraving nicely mimics the short hairs of a dachshund’s coat. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 12.7 grams.

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold dome earrings studded with bezel-set tourmaline, topaz, garnet, citrine and aquamarine. This style was popularized by H Stern in the 1950’s and was used to show off the variety of gemstones available from the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design was eventually called “Sputnik”. The style was mostly used for rings, but also for pendants, charms and earrings. Earrings are quite uncommon. The earrings retain the original post-and-clip backs, but the posts could be removed if desired. The clips are marked “MN 750”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.36 cts.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A very good 14K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled four-leaf clover. The clover's petals are beautifully detailed with enamel decoration and are centered with a prong-set round brilliant cut diamond of very fine quality. The clover is surrounded by a chunky round gold border. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, and is hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a tiny ding on the outer edge of the circle. Size: 1-11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan Revival style fob charm of elongated lantern form set with almandine garnet cabochons. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with beaded and ropetwist decoration. The jump ring is marked “Italy 750”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” long excluding jump ring. Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.1 cts.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The spheres are collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around central aquamarines set at the tops of the domes. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. These earrings have a bright appearance with strong aquamarines and light pink tourmalines. The earrings retain their original clips which could easily be replaced with posts, if desired. The earrings are unsigned, but most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.50 carats.

This delicate 14K yellow gold ring is set with a beautiful fire opal surrounded at compass points by old European cut diamonds. Fire opal is an uncommon stone, and it is very rare to find with play-of-color, the flash effect seen in traditional opals. This stone flashes with red, green and blue. The strong orange body color and fine clarity makes this a beautiful stone. The diamonds are quite good quality and are particularly bright against the orange fire opal. The shank is finished with milligrained edges on both sides. It is engraved “My love, forever 6-16-56”. It is stamped 14K and has an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: America, 1956. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6. Crown Size: 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 2.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: fire opal, .71 ct; diamond, .12 ct.