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Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 56.0 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.6 carats.
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Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.
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Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.
Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.
NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).
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Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.
Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.
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Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-9/16” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 18.1 grams.
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The front cover features an oval plaque decorated with an en plein enameled scene of two cherubs in a Watteau-like pose. One of the cherubs, however, is special. He has white feathered wings and a quiver of arrows. He represents Amor (aka Cupid or Eros), son of Venus (Aphrodite). He is commonly considered the god of love, but more accurately was the god of desire and erotic love.
The back cover features a beveled glass cover conforming to the shield form enclosing a bed of silk. The interior includes two glass-covered compartments. The bail is stamped with the "tete d'aigle" mark for 18K gold and bears an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.
Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: very fine; the glass of one interior compartment is cracked, but seems secure in its frame. Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.15 carats.
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Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.
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The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.
Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".
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Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-15/32” overall length; snake, 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.
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Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.
Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.
NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).
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Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.
The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.
Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.
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Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.
An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".
Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.
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Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.
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Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.
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Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.
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Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.
Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.
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Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, there are some enamel imperfections at the edges of the petals that are original to the making. Size: head, 1/4" x 1/4"; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.
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Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter, excluding bail. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.