Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

A wonderfully naughty Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold ring depicting a couple engaged in mutual oral stimulation. Victorian and Edwardian erotic jewelry is extremely rare, having been made only for the daring few who were willing to wear such things in public. Like other pieces of erotica, the designer was charged with making the object look as innocent as possible, only revealing its true nature upon very careful and prolonged inspection. Upon first examination, this ring appears to be a typical sinuous floral Art Nouveau design. Looking closely however, the design reveals a man and woman amorously entwined. Even the back of the shank is decorated with a pair of somewhat cleverly concealed penises. The ring is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very little wear. Size: 1/2" wide. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamond in an openwork mounting. The diamond crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 3/8" (9x9mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .11 ct.

A superb Edwardian ring featuring a 1.89 carat antique cushion sapphire asymmetrically flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds (.40 and .35 carats, both I color and one with VS1 clarity and the other with SI2 clarity, in buttercup settings. The design is further enhanced with scrolls set with rose cut diamonds. As is typical of the period, the gold ring is topped with platinum to highlight the color of the stones. The sapphire has beautiful texture and color that reads blue across the room. The stone shows no indication of heat treatment and is characteristic of the best sapphire from Sri Lanka. The shank is stamped with French import marks for 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: French import marks, but likely American, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide
• Finger Size: 5-3/4” (easily sizeable)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.86 ct; diamond, .89 ct
• Weight: 5.4 grams

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

An unusually fine and large 14K yellow gold sunburst brooch set with 105 natural seed pearls surrounded a .33 carat old European cut diamond (graded I, VS2). The pearls have very fine color and lustre. The piece retains its original folding pendant bail and pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. Sun-themed jewels were meant to symbolize “life-giving force” or “divine light,” and were often set with white stones such as pearls or diamonds to suggest “purity.” Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.6 grams

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

An elegant 14K yellow gold gold bracelet constructed with modified gatelinks, each enhanced with engraved details. The five center links are set with round sapphires. The sapphires have intense coloring and excellent clarity. The interior is stamped "14K" and also has Crane & Theurer's maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide; 7-1/4" long
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat

Lovely Edwardian brooch featuring beautifully-crafted floral swirls and filigree of yellow gold surrounding a carved oval plaque of chrysoprase centered with a collet-set white sapphire. The pinstem is marked with partially illegible marks. The maker's mark "WW" (or "MM") is clearly stamped. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Continental, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 13/16". Weight: 4.0 grams.

An extremely rare French 18K gold stick pin, the head set with reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting the historic first airplane crossing of the English Channel by Louis Bleriot in 1909. Transportation-themed Essex crystal jewelry is very rare, but those clearly linked to a specific vehicle or event are truly exceptional. The colors of the painting are vibrant and there is no sign of moisture damage. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1909. Condition: excellent. Size: head, 11/16” diameter; overall length, 3”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A pair of silver egg-shaped earrings decorated with ornate floral guilloche engraving below translucent golden enamel. The enamel gives the appearance that the eggs are constructed entirely of gold. The ridge around the center of each egg was left unenameled for color contrast. The upper half of each egg is set with an old European cut diamond. The 14K gold wires are possibly original, but more likely replacements. The bail of each egg is stamped with illegible hallmarks. Purchased in Paris.

• Origin: Russia, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide; 3/4" long (excluding wires)
• Weight: 7.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

Three glowing opals punctuate each this pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold dress clips. Triangular in shape, the clips are entirely hand-pierced and chased in a swirling foliate pattern. The leaves extend beyond the triangular borders to create a slightly assymetrical shape. The opals are much more attractive in person than in the photos, and have fine play of green, blue, orange and red color, evenly spread over the gemstones. Clips of this sort would have originally been worn on either side of a neckline, on a fur, or attached to shoes. They can still be worn those ways, of course, but they're terribly versatile and could be worn on jacket or coat lapels, clipped onto a grosgrain or velvet ribbon and worn as a choker, and dangling from a chain. The clips have a a jeweler's inventory number, but no maker's mark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1915.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 1 1/4" x 1 1/4".
• 21.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 2.22 carats.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.