Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

An elegant Art Nouveau cross pendant worked in a foliate design of 18K yellow gold overlaid with a sunburst of milgrained platinum set with rose cut diamonds and centering a larger old mine cut diamond. The gold surfaces are enhanced with chasing to enhance the naturalistic look of the swirling leaves. The center diamond, .20 carat, is I/VS2. The remaining diamonds cannot be accurately measured for size, but face up at about .40 carat. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1900.
Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 2-1/2” (including jump ring).
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .carat.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

A fine late Victorian 14K yellow gold animal pin in the form of an owl sitting on a branch. The details of the feathers and tree bark are beautifully rendered. The eyes are set with two small garnet cabochons. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark. This piece could be worn as a pin or suspended from a chain as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 7.1 gr.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover designed with what appears to be a flower with ornately ruffled petals. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the flower petals are actually the flowing hair of a woman whose face can be seen at the upper portion of the locket. The design is even completed with pistils and stamens. "Anthropomorphism"--the merging of human and animal or human and plant characteristics was a popular decorative element in the Art Nouveau period. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a few pinpoints on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

An elegant very early Edwardian 14K yellow gold ring of navette shape set with an interesting spotted or moss agate cabochon. The agate's body color is a translucent goldish-gray color with darker markings that resemble a tiger's stripes. The gold setting is delicately enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The very long navette shape is very flattering to the finger. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Ring Size: 8. Dimensions: crown 7/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 5.2 gr.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush purple, cream, maroon, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round brilliant cut diamond. Though this example is unmarked, it is likely by A. J. Hedges. Hedges’ enameled flowers stood out from the competition because they were generally heavier and displayed more sculptural detail. The diamond is graded H/SI2. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp, and folding pendant bail. The bail is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's ring set with a rectangular carnelian plaque with canted corners. The gold surfaces are entirely covered with an hand-engraved foliate design. The gemstones in rings of this type were sometimes engraved with the owner's coat of arms, but this example has never been engraved. The stone's color and the overall impressive size of the ring make this a particularly nice example. The interior is marked 585.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 1/4" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 17.4 gr.

A heavy 14K gold curb link watch chain, finished with a movable t-bar, a dog clip, and a spring ring. The chain would be perfect to match up with one or more other heavy watch chains to create a unique layered look with multiple charms. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 12-3/4" long
• Weight: 37.9 grams

A nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold signet ring that appears never to have been engraved. The shoulders are enhanced with scrolling foliage leading up to the oval face. It’s very unusual to find a signet ring that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, very light wear to decorative elements at the shoulders
• Dimensions: face, 5/8” x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 8-1/2
• Weight: 9.3 grams

A very fine 14K gold stickpin in the form of a horse's head by Sloan & Co. They eye is set with a small ruby cabochon. The horse is entirely three-dimensional, worked with as much detail on the back as the front. The stick pin can easily be converted to a pendant or ring. The base of the neck is stamped with Sloan's 14K gold mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: head, 7/8" 5/8"; overall length, 2 15/16".
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A curving band of old European, transitional and single-cut diamonds sparkle in the yellow gold ribbon top of this Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet. The larger diamonds are clasped in buttercup settings, while the smaller ones are bead-set with milgrain accents. The diamonds are good quality, averaging J color and SI1 clarity. The back of the bracelet has a caged structure that mimics the openness of the front. The clasp is stamped 14K.

America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at top tapering to 1/4" at back; fits a 6-5/8" wrist.
• Weight: 26.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.47 carats.

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A rare 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the front cover depicting a Ford Model B automobile (1904-06). The headlights and the center of the grille are set with old mine cut diamonds sparkling as if truly lit up. The car is very finely detailed with excellent depth to the design, clearly showing the early right-hand drive and the fluted sides of the engine compartment. The back bears an ornate period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1905
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; a couple of pinpoint dings to the back cover hidden among the monogram
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

A beautiful late Victorian 18K yellow gold and platinum ring set with a 1/2-carat oval ruby bordered with rose cut diamonds set in platinum. The ruby is graded as slightly purplish-red color, medium-dark tone and moderately strong saturation (slpR 6/4) and shows no indicated of heat or other treatment. The carat weight of rose cut diamonds cannot be accurately determined by measurement, but they have the visual appearance of being about a half carat in total weight. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Very good condition; the back of the shank is an old sizing replacement that was obviously custom-made to match
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” diameter
• Finger Size: 7-1/4
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .50 carat; diamond, .50 carat

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant in 14K yellow gold by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The curving gold frame encloses a flower with petals made from baroque Mississippi River pearls centering a bezel-set round blue sapphire. Another freshwater pearl hangs from the bottom of the pendant. The gold surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The bail is original and is marked by Bippart.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 2-1/2" x 5/8"; chain 15"
• Weight: 5.6 grams
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .11 carat