Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1000)

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

An important artist-designed 18K yellow gold and emerald ring by Maison Gennari of Paris. The ring is styled in the Art Nouveau taste, with a voluptuous mermaid surrounded by waves and seaweed. She leans against a pair of cabochon emeralds, whose green color reinforces the watery feeling of the design. The ring is stamped with French 18K marks and is signed by Maison Gennari.

Francois Gennari was a jeweler who collaborated with sculptors to create one-of-a-kind jewels. The works were displayed at the Galerie Gennari at 25, rue Bonaparte in Paris. Gennari primarily used the lost-wax method, insuring that each piece is virtually unique.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: shank tapers from 9/32" to 5/8" wide. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 18.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.24 cts.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A very good example of a mid-20th century pearl and jade cluster ring by Ming's of Honolulu. Wook Moon opened his shop in 1940 and specialized in creating interesting designs that combined traditional Hawaiian motifs and gems popular in the South Pacific and Asian communities. This cluster ring features are green, black, white, yellow and red jade spheres nestled among ivory-colored pearls. The jade has good translucency and the pearls have very attractive luster, smooth surfaces and distinct gold overtones. Most rings by Ming's had gold leaves interspersed among the gems, but this example is particularly attractive because there are no leaves--just 22 colored spheres tightly packed into a very large cluster. The back of the ring is constructed with a double shank to provide more stability. The setting is entirely handmade and is stamped "Ming's" and "14K".

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4 x 1-1/8". Weight: 14.7 grams.

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

A beautiful 18K rose gold pendant set with an array of brilliant round-cut colored gems including green tourmaline, peridot, aquamarine, garnet, green beryl, citrine and pink topaz. The gems are arranged in a circle around the central peridot set in a multi-level buttercup setting. The rosy shade of the gold contrasts beautifully with the rich colors of the gemstones. Although it is not signed, we feel strongly that this piece was created by H Stern, around the same time as the iconic "Sputnik" line was introduced. These jewels featured the wide array of gems to be found in Stern's Brazilian mines. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.96 carats.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's mines in Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This bracelet has strong, saturated colors in autumnal hues. This design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets; the bracelet is by far the most difficult piece to find. This bracelet is marked for 18K and is also marked with one of Stern's early hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: all excellent except one dome that has a ding around one of the stones (not particularly visible unless you're really looking for it). Dimensions: 27/32" wide; 7-1/2" long. Weight: 23.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.34 carats.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated colors in the stones. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.86 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin/pendant formed as a pair of enameled flowers with foliage against an ornate asymmetrically scrolled pearl-set background. The flowers appear to be apple blossoms and are beautifully enameled in iridescent shades of yellow and rose. The smaller flower is centered with a small old European cut diamond. The other flower and the scrolled background is set with seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp as well as a folding bale to the piece can be worn as either a pin or a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all origina; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold mesh watch fob suspending a nicely detailed 14K Egyptian Revival Sphinx seal. Mesh fobs are most frequently gold-filled, but this example is solid 14K. The fittings at either end are beautifully engraved in a foliate pattern. The Sphinx seal depicts the regal creature in its traditional pose with wings swept back against the leonine flanks. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no engraving on seal. Dimesions: overall length, 6-1/8"; seal, 1 x 3/4". Weight: 30.0 grams.

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

A very rare 14K yellow gold and enamel pin in the form of an oyster shell complete with a small pearl. The enamel is beautifully worked in shades of greenish- and silvery-grey. The shell is depicted as slightly opened with pearl resting along the opened edge. The back of the pin is stamped with the 14K gold hallmark of Alberts & Son, Inc., one of the Newark jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 7/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A magnificent late Georgian multi-colored 18-22K gold bracelet comprising ten heavily detailed plaques. Each primary plaque, in the form of scallop shells in a cruciform arrangement with a large multi-tiered rosette at the center set with an old mine cut diamond. Each primary plaque is set at the corners with antique cushion cut Colombian emeralds. The secondary plaques have floral and acorn decoration and smaller rosettes centering old mine cut diamonds. The gold is very subtly colored, with the rosettes being just a shade pinker than the surrounding gold. The smaller rosettes are enhanced underneath the petals with small floral sprays worked in green and rose gold. The surface decoration is simply exquisite. The diamonds are J color, SI1 clarity and have very good brilliance. The emeralds have intense pure green coloring and fine clarity. The bracelet is entirely original, including the box clasp. Testing indicates that the gold content is somewhere between 18K and 22K.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1835. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 62.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.75 cts; emerald, 1.24 cts.

A stunning late Victorian or Edwardian reverse carved crystal depicting a collie dog. The crystal is set in an alternating border of French cut rubies and rose cut diamonds. Following the practice of the period, the rubies are set in gold, whereas the diamonds are set in platinum--a technique used to enhance the colors of the stones. The crystal is expertly carved and painted with tremendous depth and detail. Reverse carved crystals are most often set in plain gold mountings and it is quite difficult to find examples set with gemstones. The back of the pin retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 ct; ruby, 1.30 cts.

A lovely and very unusual 18K yellow gold, rock crystal, mother of pearl and aventurine glass ("goldstone") locket. The locket is constructed as a beveled oval frame of aventuring enclosing a pair of rock crystal windows, one of which opens to allow access to the inside of the locket. A mother-of-pearl plaque can be left in place so two photos can be displayed or removed so the locket can hold a lock of hair or a pressed flower. This is the only aventurine locket we have seen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.

A very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold watch fob seal in the form of a seated hound dog. He (it's very obviously a male dog) is extremely well-detailed and is highlighted with a black enameled collar and cabochon ruby eyes. The carnelian seal was never engraved. This fob seal is a little larger than most and has an imposing presence. The fob is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" tall. Weight: 17.4 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau Krementz 14K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring pear-shaped amethyst drops and small natural pearls enhanced with swags of gold links. Each of the amethysts hangs from a gold trumpet flower mounting that echos the central gold plaque. The gold surfaces are worked in the slightly matte Russian finish popular in high quality Art Nouveau jewels. The clasp and the back of the central plaque are marked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; the chain has been lengthened from the original 14" to its current 16.5"; the extension is made so the necklace can also be worn at a 15.25" length. Dimensions: length of central drop from the plaque, 1-1/4". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 10.51 carats.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

A very fine 14K yellow gold bracelet of interlocking floral plaques in the Art Nouveau style. Five plaques are set with round brilliant cut green tourmalines of particularly fine quality. The bracelet is finished with a concealed box clasp marked "RMU 585".

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 9/16" wide; 7-3/4" long. Weight: 21.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

An outstanding Victorian Arts & Crafts long chain fashioned from a series of oval cut colored gemstones in graduating sizes, each bezel-set in 14K yellow gold and joined to one another with very delicate handmade gold links. The selection of stones includes amethyst, citrine, topaz, aquamarine, almandine garnet, hessonite grosularite garnet, pink tourmaline, green tourmaline, and smoky quartz. The chain is an amazing 78 inches (6-1/2 feet) long and can be worn draped around the neck at various lengths. Long chains without clasps and are difficult to wear around the wrist, but this example can be wound about ten times around the wrist for wear as a stunning bracelet. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 78 inches long. Weight: 31.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 94.6 cts.

A particularly lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold flower pin in the form of an iris. The flower is enhanced with iridescent enamels in delicate shades of green, cream and purple. A 3-point old mine cut diamond is nestled in the center of the blossom. The flower petals are deeply ruffled and finely engraved for added texture. The back retains the original clasp, stamped with the mark for Whiteside & Blank, but the pinstem has been replaced.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; replaced pinstem. Dimensions: 1-3/4 x 11/16". Weight: 5.7 gr.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A lovely vintage 14K gold heart pin set all the way around with old European cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in a white gold shared-prong setting that creates a lovely gallery effect along the outer edge of the pin. The diamonds are nice quality, graded as H/I color and VS1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 6.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.20 cts.

A delightful Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a smoking monkey. The face is beautifully detailed and he grasps a small pearl at the edge of his mouth to represent a cigarette. The surface is highlighted with a slightly rust-colored bloomed finish. The back is stamped with the mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.9 gr.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in a waterfall or cascade motif by Chaumet. Each earring is composed of five strands of bezel-set gemstones of varying lengths. They are designed so three of the strands appear to descend from the front of the earlobe and two strands from the back. Each of the gemstones is fully articulated so the strands swing freely when being worn. The cascade design is a more modern interpretation of a classic Art Deco style. As would be expected of an haute joaillerie piece by Chaumet, the gemstones are of superb quality. The diamonds are graded as G-H color and VVS2 clarity. The emeralds are graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6); the rubies as medium-dark strong slightly purplish-red (slpR 6/5); and the sapphires as medium-dark strong violetish-Blue (vB 6/6). All the colored stones have eye-clean clarity. In other words, the colored stones are of very fine quality, with intensely bright colors and excellent clarity. The clip backs have a spring-loaded tension mechanism that holds the earrings securely but comfortably. The earrings are fully marked with French 18K hallmarks and are signed “Chaumet Paris.” More importantly, they also bear the master goldsmith’s mark for Chaumet, indicating the earrings were made by Chaumet’s in-house workshops.

Origin: France, ca. 1990. Condition: 1-9/16 in. long; 13/16 in. wide. Weight: 30.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 3.2 cts; sapphire, 2.32 cts; ruby, 1.80 cts; emerald, 1.58 cts.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

A lovely pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the classic 1950s combination of diamonds, turquoise and ruby. The cruciform shape and sophisticated use of gemstone colors is very much in the style of Verdura, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels pieces of the era. The gold petals are simply enhanced with twisted wire and the diamonds are set in platinum. Each earring is stamped with French gold and platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16 x 15/16 in. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; ruby, 3.0 ct; turquoise, 3.28 ct.