Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A very rare early pair of double-sided cufflinks, the navette-shaped faces centered with Persian turquoise cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The faces are joined with 15K yellow gold chains. Diamonds in Georgian jewelry are nearly always set in silver, as they are in this case. The silver’s light color brings out the glitter of the rose cut diamonds and also nicely accents the rich color of the turquoise. The diamonds are set in an open back “a jour” setting that was developed toward the end of the 18th century, but was not commonly used until the early Victorian era. The extra-long chains suggest that the cufflinks were probably intended for use on the cuffs of a coat, rather than a shirt, to accommodate the thick folds of velvet or brocade fabric. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 1/2" x 5/16”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .80 carat; turquoise, 3.96 cts.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold earclips by Burle Marx set with intricately carved amethysts in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stones. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The backs of the earrings are signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”. The earrings have clip mechanisms, but posts could easily be added without disturbing the integrity of the earrings.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1233380).

A superb dress set, comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, by Tiffany & Co. Each face is fashioned from a disc of abalone centering a old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The borders of the faces are worked in platinum enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, VS clarity. The abalone has deep luster with strong overtones of iridescent red, green and orange. Cufflinks made from abablone are much less common than those made from gray or white mother-of-pearl. The added sparkle from the engraved platinum contrasts nicely. The backs and findings are worked in 14K yellow gold, but only the platinum shows when being worn. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co./14K” and “Plat. & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 13.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A very rare pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. designed as coiled dolphin-like sea monsters. The scales are highlighted with translucent blue champleve enamel and the eyes are set with cabochon rubies. The cufflinks are hinged and clasp together by inserting the creature's tail into its own jaws. The interior of each cufflink is marked "Tiffany 18K". There is no designer mark, but the work is very similar in style, quality and aesthetic to the designs created by Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin in the 1960s.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, a 1/32" nick to the enamel on one cufflink. Size: 1" x 1-18". Weight: 21.6 grams.

An attractive pair of 18K yellow gold baton-style cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut G/H color diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The gold surfaces have a semi-matte finish that accents the brilliance of the gemstones very nicely. Solid bridges connect the faces to hinged backs. The bridges are marked “750” and also have serial numbers, but no maker’s mark.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 16.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, 1.28 cts.

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A stunning 19K yellow gold enhancer pendant intended for a thick chain or a strang of beads by Elizabeth Locke. The oval pendant encloses a gorgeous labradorite cabochon glowing with the billowy blue color of the best labradorite. The central stone is accented at compass points by round brilliant-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have a slightly violet tint and exceptional brilliance. The bail is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain or onto a strand of beads or pearls. The interior of the bail is has Locke’s signature and is marked “19K”. The pendant is presented in its original Elizabeth Locke silk pouch. A similar pendant currently retails for $3,600.

Origin: America, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces simply set with round brilliant cut citrines. The prongs holding the stones are reeded for an added a touch of elegance. The citrines have good, deep lemon color with just a hint of orange, have excellent brilliance, and are well-matched. Despite the simplicity of the design, the cufflinks are heavy and feel substantial when being worn. They’re particularly attractive on a blue cuff. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.44 cts.

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A very good Victorian brooch worked in pietra-dura. The design depicts a colorful purple iris blossom with foliage and buds against a black background. The pieces of stone are very well-cut and fit tightly into the design. The back retains the original brass pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8 diameter.

A handsome pair of Art Deco multistone cufflinks, the emerald cut green tourmaline, amethyst, yellow citrine and orange citrine simply set in yellow gold bezels. The stones have rich, even coloring, excellent brilliance and very good clarity. The faces and removable connectors are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark "MV in a hexagon" and "585" for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 7/16". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 6.28 cts; amethyst, 6.48 cts; citrine, 9.8 cts.

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

A delightful pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a canoe. The bow of each is set with a 4-pt old mine cut diamond (I1 clarity/K color). The canoes are fully three-dimensional and each has three seats in the interior. Marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A very fine pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks, the double faces set with mother-of-pearl plaques centered with cabochon emeralds. The faces faces are bordered with platinum rims engraved in a reeded design. The emeralds are very nice quality, with vivid pure green color and good clarity that contrasts nicely with the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl. The use of emeralds in cufflinks is relatively uncommon. The connectors are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 7.3 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .80 carat.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with cabochon agates. The variety of agate is called “landscape agate” because the colors and markings resemble painted landscapes. These particular stones suggest colorful sunsets behind wooded landscapes. The bezel settings are finished with fine millegraining. The connectors are marked 14K and have an unknown American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 10.4 grams.

An interesting and attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as reeded batons. The batons have a concealed spring-loaded mechanism that attaches to swivel hinges on the pair of struts that hold the batons in place. We've never before seen this particular mechanism. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks and also with the mark of the Parisian jeweler Gaétan de Percin. De Percin opened his studio in 1938 and executed designs for Hermès, Dior, Chanel, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: ecellent; all original. Dimensions: batons, 3/4 in. long. Weight: 8.5 grams.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.