Catalog (2449)

An impressive 42-carat citrine centers this elegant pendant. The 14K gold setting features stylized flowers and foliage on each side of the stone. The citrine has very good even brownish-orange color resembling a good topaz. Overall, the impression is “statement piece.” The original bail is stamped “585” for 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 1-15/16” long including bail
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 42.02 carats
• Weight: 17.0 grams

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush purple, cream, maroon, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round brilliant cut diamond. Though this example is unmarked, it is likely by A. J. Hedges. Hedges’ enameled flowers stood out from the competition because they were generally heavier and displayed more sculptural detail. The diamond is graded H/SI2. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp, and folding pendant bail. The bail is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A nice Italian Etruscan style 18K gold lantern-shamed fob charm enhanced with coral cabochons. The midsection of the charm is left open to give it a feeling of lightness and to bring more life to the coral. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette decoration. The charm is stamped “750” for 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” wide, 1-1/4” long (excluding jump ring)

A handsome pair of French stirrup-form 18K gold cufflinks formed as interlocking ropetwist links. The cufflinks open at the pointed end and are very easy to put on and remove. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark (“RC” with a bird).

• Origin: France, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 27/32”
• Weight: 13.3 grams(/li>

A wonderful late Victorian tea caddy in the form of a miniature William IV style double-pedestal sideboard with a scallop shell backsplash. The lid lifts to reveal three small compartments for storing caddy spoons and other implements. The two outer compartments have removable pegs that allow the fronts of each of the pedestals to be removed, revealing two drawers for the storage of tea. The center area between the pedestals would have been used to store a crystal mixing bowl. The front of each pedestal has tombstone inlays in bird’s-eye maple, while the sides are decorated with a diamond pattern of rosewood and maple. The hinged top is edged with holly or sycamore stringing. Figural tea caddies and miniature furnishings are quite rare and desirable.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: some warping to the hinged lid, a 2-1/2” x 1/2" area of missing veneer on the front edge of the right pedestal (not very visible because the mahogany veneer is set over the mahogany carcass), the scalloped backsplash has split and has been secured with old nails, the teeth of the brass lock are missing. Size: 14-7/8” wide; 11-1/4” high; 6” deep.

This substantial Victorian 14K gold chain can be worn alone as a statement piece or be used to suspend a heavy locket or pendant. Each link is reeded to add extra texture and shine. The links are open so the chain can be used to suspend a series of charms, if desired. The chain is completed with a spring ring clasp. The clasp is marked "14K" and the chain is tested and guaranteed 14K, as well.

• America, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• 22 3/4" long.
• 16.4 grams.

A very handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a strongly linear, architectural style. The faces are set at one end with iolites cut as sugarloaf cabochons and at the other with bluish-violet chalcedonies cut as triangular cabochons. The use of transparent, intense bluish-violet iolites with softer translucent chalcedonies in the same color family is an inspired choice and really sets these cufflinks apart. The faces are connected by solid bridges to hinged backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 1/2". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: iolite, .38 carat; chalcedony 1.14 carats.

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

A classic Victorian double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking double links in 14K gold. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28” long.
• Weight: 18.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A handsome pheasant struts his stuff in this expertly-carved and painted Essex reverse crystal set in 14K yellow gold. The bird is presented against a landscape subtly-colored foliage and mounted on a rail fence setting. Animal jewelry featuring crystals as large as this are increasingly difficult to find. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no water damage.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 1”.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.

An elegant pair of Art Deco 18K gold cufflinks decorated with geometric engraving and champleve enamels in opaque red and black. Each cufflink is hallmarked for 18K gold and has the master’s goldsmith’s mark (illegible).

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter.
• Weight: 8.1 grams

A very good example of a mid-20th century pearl and jade cluster ring by Ming's of Honolulu. Wook Moon opened his shop in 1940 and specialized in creating interesting designs that combined traditional Hawaiian motifs and gems popular in the South Pacific and Asian communities. This cluster ring features are green, black, white, yellow and red jade spheres nestled among ivory-colored pearls. The jade has good translucency and the pearls have very attractive luster, smooth surfaces and distinct gold overtones. Most rings by Ming's had gold leaves interspersed among the gems, but this example is particularly attractive because there are no leaves--just 22 colored spheres tightly packed into a very large cluster. The back of the ring is constructed with a double shank to provide more stability. The setting is entirely handmade and is stamped "Ming's" and "14K".

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4 x 1-1/8". Weight: 14.7 grams.

A vintage pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. The faces are engraved in a geometric rayed pattern for a little extra sparkle. The faces are joined by bar connectors, one of which is marked “Tiffany & Co.” Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat
• Weight: 14.1 grams

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold fob seal, the surfaces ornately decorated in a repousse pattern of flowers and foliage. Fobs in this design are more typically English than American. It is very generously sized to make an impression when being worn. The citrine plaque is engraved with the monogram “WKV”, so we’ll just assume that was for William K Vanderbilt (LOL!) The ring is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1840
• Dimensions: 1” x 7/8” x 1-1/2” (excluding ring)
• Weight: 19.5 grams

A lovely early Art Nouveau 18K gold sliding locket by the acclaimed medallist Jean-Baptiste Emile Dropsy. The front cover shows a bare-shouldered woman wearing a diamond necklace and hair ornament feeding a diamond seed to a bird in mid-flight, all surrounded by a bough of chestnut leaves. The diamond accents (“habillé”) add a bit of sparkle to the design. The bird appears to be a dove, representative of “love” in Victorian symbology, while the chestnut leaves represent the sentiment “do me justice.” Taken together, the message means some along the lines of wishfulness for being treated well in love. Dropsy was an early Art Nouveau designer and his female designs tend to be a bit more teasing Gibson Girl than the more overtly sexy nudes that came along a decade or so later. The back cover is decorated with a curved spray of roses complete with thorns. Roses were also used to symbolize love, and when thorns are present, sometimes hinted that love is not without occasional pain. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and mirrored glass, which could be replaced with photos if desired. The locket is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent, all original, a small ding on the back cover visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”
• Weight: 11.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A wonderful vintage 14K yellow gold charm featuring a gem-set heart and key. The symbols are an acrostic puzzle for "Key to my heart." The heart is bordered with rubies and centered with seed pearls. The head of the key is set with a ruby, a sapphire, and an emerald. The background is enhanced with a satin finish and the disc's edges have a rope border. The back is marked for 14K gold.

• IrugubL America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" diameter
• Weight: 16.8 grams
• Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .75 ct; sapphire, .05 ct; emerald, .05 ct.

A beautiful sterling silver vase in the Art Nouveau taste by Shreve & Co. The sinuous trumpet form body is decorated with gorgeous applied silver iris blossoms and buds accented with engraved foliage. The body rises to a ruffled rim that mimics the curvy lines of the floral decoration. The foot is decorated at compass points with iris blossoms, their stems forming the rolled bottom edge. The bottom is hallmarked by Shreve & Co. with the post-1894 mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings, no monograms. Size: 12-3/16” tall. Weight: 526.0 grams.

An extremely fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Each square face is centered with a gypsy-set old European cut diamond, and has square cut blue sapphires at each corner. The stones have excellent color and clarity, especially the sapphires, which are bright blue. The platinum is finished with a matte surface, causing the gemstones to seem even more vibrant. The faces have pierced galleries around the edges and are attached to baton backs with chains. The outer surface of the batons are also worked in matte platinum. The geometric styling of these cufflinks is a very good example of early Art Deco.

Origin: Europe, possibly France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/32" x 15/32". Weight: 7.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.