Catalog (2417)

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the ROUND design by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Peretti’s designs transform even the simplest geometric shapes into beautiful and original jewelry. The round shapes are adorned only with an off-center round “dent” that flattens the sphere. The eassings can be dressed up or down for wear with nearly any outfit. The backs are omega clips with posts. The earrings are signed by Peretti and Tiffany, and are presented in their original dark blue Tiffany box. Tiffany recently brought back this design and the earrings retail for $3200.

• Origin: America, ca 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” (24mm) diameter
• Weight: 16.5 grams

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

A delicate 14K yellow gold bracelet by Krementz fashioned as a chain of pansy blossoms. Each pansy is centered with a small baroque pearl. Alternating links are in a foliate style and are set with round brilliant cut amethysts. Pansies held special meaning in the Victorian period as flowers of remembrance. The use of purple and white gems mimics the flower’s most classic coloring. The cleverly concealed clasp is marked with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/16” wide, overall length, 7”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.06 cts.

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each hexagonal face is decorated with a blue and white champlevé enamel pattern that highlights its “quilted” texture. Each face is centered with a triangular sapphire cabochon bezel-set in platinum. The sapphires have bright color that beautifully accents the enamel. The faces are connected by chains. Each cufflink is marked “18Ct” and has another unidentified mark. They are well-traveled, also bearing old London import marks and French import marks.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.24 carats.
• Weight: 6.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Sern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and peridots. The spheres are suspended from a bar of three larger gemstones. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Most Sputnik earrings are clips. This is only the second pair of Sputnik drop earrings we have seen in twenty years. The earrings originally had lever backs which is where the Stern mark would have been. At some point, this pair was changed to a post and clutch system. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and to be made by Stern.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” long; 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.72 carats
• Weight: 6.9 grams

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Brazil, ca 1955.
• Condition: original clips were removed and replaced with 14K posts
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.44 carats
• 10.2 grams.

A lovely Retro necklace worked in 14K rose and yellow gold and set with moonstones and amethysts. The necklace descends from a rose gold paperclip link chain toward a pair of openwork yellow gold plaques, each set with a round amethyst accented with a rose gold stylized flower, and flanking a central triangular plaque designed in the same manner. A pair of oval cabochon moonstones is set at either side. The central plaque suspends a larger oval moonstone with a nearly invisible setting. The moonstones have very nice bluish adularescence and the amethysts have rich purple color. The interplay of gemstone and gold colors and the unusual design mixing Victorian, Art Nouveau and Retro elements creates a very striking effect. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: ecellent, all original. Size: 17-5/8” long; central plaque and pendant, 1-3/8” long. Weight: 14.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.43 cts; amethyst, .32 ct.

A vintage pair of Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold earrings in a classic ribbed shrimp design. The earrings have posts and omega backs. Marked "T&C 750".

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" long; 3/8" maximum width

Weight: 14.9 grams

Art Deco 18K gold and sapphire stirrup cufflinks in the style first popularized by Cartier. The heavy mesh sides are accented with two blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons on each cufflink. Each is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• France, ca. 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions:13/16" x 1-3/32"
• Weight: 16.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 carat

A pair of ducks takes flight from the lakeside marsh in this 18K yellow gold and diamond locket by renowned Swiss jewelers Huguenin Frères. The quality of the design and workmanship are astounding. The old European cut diamond (I/VS2) is set in platinum collet to enhance the color. Huguenin Frères was one of the leading makers of fine pocketwatch cases, and in 1899 expanded their range to include sporting decorations and other jewelry. It’s likely that a locket of this type was made for a markswoman or female hunter of some distinction. The locket retains its original interior frames and old silk liners. The front is signed by the maker.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; no monogram.
• Dimensions: 1 9/32” diameter.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.M/il>
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A stunning pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold cufflinks by Carrington, the faces designed as dolphins stylized as sea monsters. The creatures are beautifully designed with detailed scales, fins and gaping mouths. The eyes are set with G/VS1 old mine cut diamonds. The faces are joined by oval connectors sufficiently long to fit through a thick cuff. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 7/16”
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Weight: 14.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

Fine Pennsylvania impressionist oil on board snowscape by H. Don Donnell. The image depicts a winding country road along bordered by a fence to one side and a couple of trees on the other. Pockets of brush dot the landscape. Auburn leaves cling to the trees, creating a nice counterpoint of color to the soft greys and blues in the snow-covered ground and wintery sky. A pair of small buildings appear in the near background before the scene rises to the foothills of the Allegheny Mountains. The perspective is particularly appealing. The painting is signed twice at lower right, one under the impasto and again in the same hand over the impasto. The first signature seems to include a date, which appears to be 1920. The back of the board is marked in pencil "Butcher Creek Road Near Butler Pa/$75/By H. Don Donnell".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: board, 16" x 12"; overall, 21-1/2" x 17-1/4".

A delightful antique wind-up witch toy, ca. 1920. She has a colorfully-decorated composition head and composition hands. Her costume is made of gauze and wool felt. The feet are black-painted lead. When wound up, the witch totters back and forth. 7-1/2" tall.

An classic pair of French 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks with a most unusual mechanical snap mechanism. The batons have reeded surfaces with plain inset bands at either end. When one of the plain bands is pushed in, a hidden spring mechanism releases the face from its mate. Snap cufflinks were uncommon in France, and this is the first pair we've seen combining the snap with a mechanical action. The cufflinks bear French gold hallmarks and are stamped with an unidentified goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: batons, 29/32" long. Weight: 14.5 gr.

A very fine pair of cufflinks, the faces worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have fine, medium violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The 14K yellow gold connectors match the gold findings on the faces and are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 carat.

An extremely fine pair of late Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz. Each face centers either a round blue sapphire or a round brilliant cut diamond with a frame of engraved yellow gold, surrounded by a band of opaque black champlevé enamel within an outer border of platinum worked in an acanthus leaf design. The diamonds are G color, VVS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone, vivid violetish-blue color (vB4/6). The connectors are stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and the backs of the faces are marked with serial numbers. Krementz made a wide variety of quality levels, and cufflinks of this sort would have been at the very top level, most likely retailed by Tiffany, Caldwell, and the like.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .26 ct; sapphire, .23 ct.

A beautiful pair of handmade cufflinks by one of Italy’s most luxurious men’s jewelry, Riccardo Zannetti. Oval cabochons of pink tourmaline, green tourmaline and aquamarine are simply fitted into bezel settings. The faces are hinged for ease of wear. Zannetti makes everything by hand and in very small quantities. Each cufflink bears appropriate Italian hallmarks and has the engraved “Zannetti” signature. This particular design is no longer available, but similar designs from his “Gems” collection currently retail for $2400.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 7/16”. Weight: 12.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 5.28 cts; aquamarine, 1.54 cts.

A stunning pair of Victorian 14K gold, onyx and pearl earrings fashioned as onyx leaves or teardrops with gold and pearl lily-of-the-valley appliques. The scrolled surmounts are also accented with seed pearls. The pearls have nice luster and iridescence. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn The wires are likely a later replacement and are marked “14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 19/32” wide x 1-3/4” long (to top of wire). Weight: 7.5 gr.

An elegant 18K yellow gold, Akoya pearl and diamond heart ring by Mikimoto. The diamond-studded heart is centered with a cluster of three 4.3-4.5mm pearls, graded as extra-fine AAA—the highest possible quality rating. They have fine luster and white body color with rosé overtones. The diamonds are E/VVS. The interior of the shank is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

The ring is accompanied by a 2006 written Bailey, Banks & Biddle appraisal for $2150.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: heart, 5/8" x 1/2". Weight: gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A vintage 18K gold Sputnik ring of dramatically large proportions by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen fine-quality round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This is, by far, the largest Sputnik ring we've ever encountered, rising a full 3/4" above the finger. The shank is stamped with Stern's older hallmark and is marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: dome, 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.92 carats.

A striking modernist 14K yellow gold link bracelet, with enlaced circular and oval links. The interplay of shapes creates a very chic look. It can be worn alone or with a collection of charms. The reverse is stamped for 14K gold and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7-3/4" long; 5/8" wide. Weight: 25.2 grams.

A wonderful Georgian 18K gold ring featuring a bold royal blue enamel plaque enhanced with a gold and seed pearl applique of a pansy. The blossom is set with a rose cut diamond at the center. The entire plaque is enclosed within a rococo floral border. The shank is decorated with complimentary floral elements. In Georgian jewelry, the pansy was used in jewelry given to loved ones with the sentiment "thinking of you". Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: England, ca 1770
• Condition: very good; enamel has a couple of areas of surface flaking to the uppermost layer of the enamel, so the color remains intact throughout
• Dimensions: plaque, 1-3/16" x 15/16"
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Weight: 7.1 grmams

Very fine, heavy, fully three-dimensional 18K yellow gold figural brooch in the form of a 420 Class racing sailboat by Fred of Paris. It can also be worn as a pendant. The mast is fully Bermuda-rigged with beautifully detailed sails worked in contrasting matte and polished gold. Two figures are hiking out over the edge of the hull and waves lap at the sides. The 420 Class was designed in 1959 and became the leading training vessel for Olympic-class boats. Fred designed a series of brooches depicting popular European racing sailboats such as the "420" and the "Flying Dutchman". The bottom of the hull is stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an obscured maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

• France, ca 1965
• Excellent condition, sharp detail, all original
• 1-1/4" x 1-7/8"
• 11.7 grams.

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A lovely and weighty vintage 18K yellow gold oval locket, the front cover enhanced with a finely-worked net motif studded with nearly a half-carat small round brilliant cut diamonds in a résille (net) pattern. The diamonds offer a nice bit of glitter without being overwhelming. The back of the locket is stamped with the maker’s mark and English 18K hallmarks.

• Origin: England, 1974-99
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/16” excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat
• Weight: 15.1 grams.

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's ring set with a rectangular carnelian plaque with canted corners. The gold surfaces are entirely covered with an hand-engraved foliate design. The gemstones in rings of this type were sometimes engraved with the owner's coat of arms, but this example has never been engraved. The stone's color and the overall impressive size of the ring make this a particularly nice example. The interior is marked 585.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 1/4" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 17.4 gr.

A large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts intense violet coloring and excellent clarity. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complement the color of the amethysts. Marked “Italy 18K.”

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 21.3 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 16.26 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed, if desired. Marked with an older Stern hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.11 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings