Catalog (2433)

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a brushed finish with prong-set sapphires. The design of a cut-out triangle superimposed over a solid triangle creates a layered effect that lends a nice feeling of depth to the cufflinks. The toggle backs are marked "14K".

li>Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.
• Condition: excellent, one toggle has a minute ding on the edge.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A boxed set of sterling silver demitasse spoons by Paye & Baker. The set comprises two each of three different floral themes, all worked in the same intaglio style with glossy flowers and foliage against a stippled background. Two of the spoons are decorated with a pattern of wild roses, two with morning glories and two with pansies. The edges of the stems and handles are shaped to match the patterns. The bowls are finished with matte gilding. The backs are hallmarked by Paye & Baker and are marked "Sterling". The company made only a small range of products, but their Art Nouveau motifs were expertly designed.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4" long.
• Weight: 38.8 grams.
• Condition: spoons, excellent condition, typical light fading of gilding on bowls; box has typical discoloration and wear.

An elegant classic-style French silver tastevin of traditional form. The bowl is decorated with raised "perles", concave "cupules" and elongated "godrons" for assessing the depth of color in both red and white wines. The curved sides help concentrate the aroma, so only a very small amount of wine has to be poured to judge quality. The looped handle allows the tastevin to be worn suspended from a chain. Tastevins with round thumbpieces are generally from the Paris region. The handle is marked for first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) and also has partially obscured master silversmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 2 11/16" diameter (excluding handle).
• Weight: 37.0 grams.
• Excellent condition; two small dings on bottom, mostly hidden by the design and two very small (1/16") dings on the upper rim.

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.

A classic pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque black champleve enamel borders. The borders are further accented with a gold strapwork motif. The connectors are marked with unidentified American hallmarks, “HB” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
• Weight: 9.2 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A classic silverplated single-serving cocktail shaker by Napier in 1934 specifically to be sold at Saks Fifth Avenue. The shakers were made in two variations, one with a dial on the top indicating the type of cocktail within and this version, with the profile of a rooster on the lid. The shaker has a built-in strainer and pouring spout. When removed, the lid becomes a footed cocktail glass. The bottom of the shaker is stamped "Napier Pat. Pend."

• Origin: America, ca. 1934.
• Dimensions: 6 1/2" tall.
• Condition: very good; light wear to plating as is typical of all Napier silverplated items; a pinpoint and a 1/4" ding to the side of the cap/cup.

An uncommon silver tastevin, the bottom inset with a Mexican silver coin featuring the likeness of King Ferdinand VII of Spain, the last Spanish emperor to rule over Mexico. The coin is dated 1821, the year Mexico became independent of Spain. The tastevin is constructed in classic French style, with a coiled snake handle, but it lacks the embellishments usually seen on French examples. The bowl is simply decorated with a hammered surface. The tastevin probably dates to the reign of the Emperor Maximilian, who ruled Mexico’s Second Empire (1864-67). Maximilian was established as emperor by the French Emperor Napoleon III, and French decorative arts became very popular among the wealthy of Mexican society.

• Origin: Mexico, ca. 1864.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 9 x 11.5 cm (3-9/16 x 4-9/16 in).
• Weight: 112.0 grams.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of Gideon the duck and his snail friend worked in chrome on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who created a comic strip called "The Adventures of Gideon" in 1923. It was immensely popular and Rabier was commissioned to make a range of entertaining barware. Few of Rabier's designs were signed, but this example is signed with his full name. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. Today, they can be use to spear olives of cherries in a cocktail, or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 5 7/16" x 3" x 4 1/2".
• Condition: very good; a small area of wear to chrome in the folds of the tail feathers and another smaller spot on the underside of the tail; normal age-appropriate wear to the wooden base.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of a large snail worked in chrome on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who had a side job designing entertaining barware. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. Today, they can be use to spear olives of cherries in a cocktail, or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 5 3/8” x 2 7/8” x 4 1/2”.
• Condition: excellent, all original; no chrome loss.

A rare and elegant boxed set of six sterling silver citrus spoons in Paye & Baker's "Orange" pattern. The handles are decorated front and back with oranges, orange blossoms and foliage. Paye & Baker primarily made souvenir spoons, and this particular pattern was usually associated with Los Angeles, considered a very exotic location at the beginning of the 20th century. These spoons are the only set we've seen made as citrus spoons. The sharply-pointed deep bowls retain their original matte gilding. Each spoon is fully hallmarked.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: spoons, 5 1/2" long.
• Weight: 158.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent; gilding intact; box has considerable age-appropriate wear and discoloration.

An elegant set of six sterling silver demitasse spoons by English silversmith William Suckling, Ltd. The handles are simply decorated with an acanthus bud. The bowls are slightly broader and more balloon-shaped than the typical demitasse spoon, so they could easily be used for delicate desserts. The set is presented in its original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case. Each spoon is fully hallmarked for the maker and for the year 1945. A set such as this must have quite the rare luxury in the final year of World War II.

• Origin: London, 1945.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3 13/16" long.
• Weight: 58.2 grams.
• Condition: both the spoons and case appear to be unused.

An uncommon boxed set of twelve Art Deco sterling silver cocktail picks with red bakelite finials in the shape of maraschino cherries. The picks are presented in their original velvet and silk-lined fitted box. Each pick is marked “Sterling Silver”. It's quite rare to find a set of a dozen picks rather than the standard six.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box shows expected wear for the age.
• Dimensions: picks, 3” long.
• Weight: 24.8 gr.

An elegant Art Deco panel-cut crystal perfume bottle in the "Frise Verte" pattern by Baccarat. The sides are cut in an austere panel design adorned at the shoulder with a band of cameo etched floral decoration in green. The geometric cameo pattern contrasts handsomely with simplicity of the panel cutting. The bottle's lip is also overlaid in green. The bottom is cut with a 24-ray star and the stopper is lapidary cut. The pattern appears in Baccarat's 1916 catalogue.

• Origin: France, ca. 1916.
• Dimensions: 6 1/4" tall.
• Condition: excellent; no chips or cracks.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1970.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

"Birds in Paradise" is the catalogue printed for the special exhibition of the same name at Van Cleef's L'Ecole, School of Jewelry Arts in 2019. The exhibition focused on jewelry inspired by birds and was drawn from two private collections and Van Cleef's heritage collection. The catalogue is printed entirely in color and features illustrations of about 100 jewels, as well as drawings and other source material for their design. It's completed with a series of scholarly essays. The catalogue was provided only to guests attending the exhibition and was not published for the general public. Paperback, 141 pages.