Catalog (2409)

A rare sterling silver pickle fork in Towle’s 1887 “Pomona” pattern. The long handle is decorated with a cornucopia overflowing with peaches, pears and grapes amidst foliage. The handle twists before leading into the matte gild three-tined fork. This piece would have been used for pickled vegetables, but could now be used for a variety of foods. The long size is much more difficult to find than the shorter version. The back is stamped with Towle’s hallmark and the patent date.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, original gilding, period two-letter monogram. Size: 9” long. Weight: 28.0 grams.

A wonderful and extremely rare enameled glass beaker bearing the portrait of Czarina Alexandra Feodorovna on the occasion of her visit to Paris in 1896. Alexandra accompanied her husband, Czar Nicholas II to dedicate the Pont Alexandre III across the Seine. Alexandra is wearing the traditional kokoshnik, a veil, long strands of pearls and a white gown. The portrait is surrounded by gilt lettering, "Souvenir Octobre 1896/Impératrice Alexandra Féodorovna". A matching glass with the Czar's portrait was also produced. The glass is nice quality and was probably produced by Legras under the name St-Denis. The use of thick enamels and speckled gilding is typical of the Art Nouveau works produced by this reknowned glasshouse. We've had quite a number of Nicholas/Alexandra pieces over the years, but this is the first example of this particular item we've seen.

Origin: France, 1896. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, no enamel damage. Size: 3-5/8" tall.

An Edwardian gilt silver ("vermeil") locket enhanced with bright turquoise blue guilloche enamel. The starburst design of the champleve is enhanced with gilt accents in the enamel. The locket retains the original insert frames on both sides. Stamped with English hallmarks; the city mark is obscured, so we can't be certain of the exact date letter, but we believe it to be 1917.

• England, ca 1917
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Weight: 13.0 grams

A very fine and extremely rare Art Deco sterling silver cocktail shaker by exclusive Tuttle Silvermsiths. At the end of the Art Deco era, just before modernism began to take a firm hold, a few leading American silver companies started reinterpreting Stuart adn Georgian silver designs for modern purposes. This shaker is just such an example. The urn finial cresting above the everted rosette cap is a new take on late Stuart and early Georgian design, as is the overall severe cylindrical shape and the double-reeded banding. The final look is an extraordinary blending of 17th century design and the "skyscraper" design of the 1920s and 30s. The bottom of the shaker is marked with Tuttle's maker's mark, as well as the retailer's mark for Shreve, Crump & Low. It is also marked "London Reproduction 1660-1684". And finally, it is marked with the monogram for Harry S. Truman with the Roman number I, indicating the that shaker was made during the first Truman administration (1945-49). Tuttle is not a widely-known American silver company precisely because all its products were made entirely by hand and were extremely expensive. It was available only to the elite.

Origin: America, 1945-49. Condition: excellent, a few insignificant waves from "ice cube dings" only visible in strong, raking light. Size: 14-1/2" tall. Weight: 1,106 grams.

Two-handled celadon jarlet; the glaze extending halfway down the body and in a soft green shade. The exposed earthenware is a reddish hue. Two applied strap handles connect the jar's lip to the shoulders. 15th-16th century. Origin: Southeast Asia, possibly Thailand. Size: 2.5" tall. Condition: Excellent.

The 18K yellow gold anchor pendant shines as it dangles from the steel cable bar-link chain with gold accents. The combination of materials makes the necklace appropriate for wear in the day or evening. The design was part of the "Flavia" line from the renowned Italian jeweler, UnoAErre The pendant is marked "Flavia" and is stamped with Italian hallmarks and the maker's mark. The clasp is also hallmarked and bears the retailer's mark for Carrazza, a luxury jeweler in the yacht basin area of Ft. Lauderdale that specializes in jewelry by European designers whose work is not widely available in North America.

• Origin: Italy, 1987.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-3/16 x 15/16"; necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 29.5 grams.

Beautiful cranberry-cut-to-clear glass decanter. The generously-sized bottle has terrific color and very nice quality cutting of hobstars, strawberry diamond, and notched prism motifs. The stopper has a blown teardrop and is cut in a matching pattern. The bottom is cut with a full hobstar. The neck and stopper are engraved with matching numbers (signifying that this is the original stopper). The bottom is signed in script.

Origin: Belgium, ca. 1930. Condition: mint. Size: 16" tall.

A striking 1950s extra-large bracelet charm by Van Cleef & Arpels. The charm is a fully-functional roulette wheel studded along the edge with collet-set round cut sapphires and emeralds. Under crystal dome, a tiny ruby bead serves as the marble. The moveable handle spins the dial, causing the ruby to skip along until if falls into one of the depressions on the wheel. Instead of numbers, however, the wheel is engraved “Je t’aime” (I love you…)/”Un Peu” (…a little)/”Beacoup” (…a lot)/”Passion” (…passionately)/”A La Folie” (…crazily)/”Pas Du Tout” (…not at all). The gemstones, as would be expected, are of the finest quality. A plain roulette wheel charm, without gemstones and engraved only with numbers, appears in a 1955 VCA print advertisement. The back is marked “Van Cleef et Arpels”, “Made In France” and has the serial number “16V507”. The maker’s mark appears on the bale. This piece can be worn on a heavy bracelet, but would be even more spectacular worn as a necklace.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/16” diameter. Weight: 22.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; emerald, .35 ct; ruby, .1 ct.

A very fine five-piece 14K yellow gold and sapphire dress set by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each piece is fashioned as a reeded baton circled by a collar of channel-set blue sapphires. The sapphires are of superb slightly violetish-blue color, with medium tone and vivid saturation. One baton on each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting them through the cuff. Each shirt stud is signed "VCA NY", and is stamped with the serial number and "14K". The cufflinks are marked only "14K". Van Cleef employed several jewelers to manufacture their designs during this era, and it's not uncommon to find sets in which not every piece is marked by VCA.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, large faces, 15/16" long; small faces, 7/8" long; studs, 9/16" long. Weight: 24.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.37 carats.

A fine 18K multicolor gold and diamond gentleman's dress watch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The octagonal face is decorated with finely engraved alternating bands of 18K yellow and white gold in a herringbone pattern. The white gold bezel is pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stem is topped with a bezel-set diamond and the lugs are also pave-set. The watch retains its original black silk strap, the gold buckle also set with diamonds. The diamonds are graded as G-H color, VS1 clarity. The back of the case is marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/Quartz/G2294.7/25689". The inside of the strap is tamped "Van Cleef & Arpels". The inside of the buckle is marked "V.C.A./750".

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent working condition; case is virtually mint; silk strap shows some wear at edges. Size: case, 1-1/4" diameter; strap, 8-3/4" long. Weight: 40.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 cts.

A wonderful pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, each spherical end cast in a sort of alligator hide pattern studded with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have fine coloring and brilliance, as would be expected of Van Cleef. One cufflink is fully marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/12V12-4/18K" and the other is marked "18K."

• Origin: America (NY), ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" diameter; smaller faces, 3/8" diameter.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .51 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An 18K white gold ring in classic Van Cleef & Arpels style, set with round brilliant diamonds and round sapphires. The sapphires are intensely colored and have eye-clean clarity. The diamonds are E/F color and VVS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is signed and bears complete serial numbers, maker’s mark and French 18K guarantee stamps.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.00 ct; diamond, .24 ct.

"Birds in Paradise" is the catalogue printed for the special exhibition of the same name at Van Cleef's L'Ecole, School of Jewelry Arts in 2019. The exhibition focused on jewelry inspired by birds and was drawn from two private collections and Van Cleef's heritage collection. The catalogue is printed entirely in color and features illustrations of about 100 jewels, as well as drawings and other source material for their design. It's completed with a series of scholarly essays. The catalogue was provided only to guests attending the exhibition and was not published for the general public. Paperback, 141 pages.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold and sapphire cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. The square faces are worked in a herringbone motif surrounding sugarloaf cabochons of blue sapphire. The smaller faces are hinged for ease in putting through a cuff. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and are graded as medium dark, strong violetish-blue (vB6/5). The cufflinks are signed “Van Cleef & Arpels” and are stamped with French gold hallmarks, the master goldsmith’s mark registered to Georges Lenfant and the copyright date 1961.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef, Cartier, Hermès and Mellerio. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, 1961. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/32” x 13/32”. Weight: 18.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.06 cts.

A stunning platinum and 18K yellow gold eternity band set with diamonds in the "Estelle" design by Van Cleef & Arpels. These rings are made only by special order, and the wait time is a minimum of three months. The classic design is named for Estelle Arpels whose 1896 marriage to Alfred Van Cleef gave rise to the luxury jewelry house. The 10-point brilliant cut round diamonds are bead-set in a platinum band flanked on either side by a beaded yellow gold edge. As expected of VCA, the diamonds are of superb quality, estimated at F color, VVS2 clarity. The eternity band design is a classic and can be worn as a wedding ring or simply as a designer ring. The interior of the band is signed "VCA NY" and has the serial number "5V263.6

VCA quotes a price for Estelle rings only at the time of order, and the price fluctuates depending upon the carat weight , which in turn fluctuates based on the size of the ring and client's wishes. The Estelle ring set with slightly less than 1.0 carats last retailed at $6,500. A 2-carat would be roughly in the $12,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1/4" wide. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.1 carats.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with oval amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice intense violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" wide x 1-1/8” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.99 carats
• Weight: 8.4 grams

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

A very nice 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant featuring oval brilliant cut and round cabochon amethysts. The exposed areas of gold are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes, beading and piercing. The charm is a good size for wearing on a bracelet or as a necklace pendant. Marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" long (not including jump ring); 7/8" diameter at base. Weight: 8.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.89 cts.

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A fine large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob, bracelet charm or pendant set with oval amethysts and pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very good, even coloring in an appealing medium-violet shade. The pearls have nice luster and rosy overtones that compliment the color of the amethysts. The bail is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail). Weight: 18.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 20.5 cts.

A fine 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob bracelet charm or pendant set with five oval amethysts and four pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very attractive medium violet coloring with excellent clarity. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail).
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.55 carats.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts intense violet coloring and excellent clarity. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complement the color of the amethysts. Marked “Italy 18K.”

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 21.3 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 16.26 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A particularly attractive large Italian 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four large blue chalcedony oval cabochons. The use chalcedony is rather unusual in these pendant/charms and the rich blue color is especially nice against the gold. NOTE: The blue in the photos are more intense than the actual subtle violet-blue color of the stones. The gold surfaces are enhanced with applied rosettes, beading and twisted wire decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-1/2". Weight: 11.7 gr.

A heavy 18K yellow gold lantern-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with vermicelli stippled engraving on the upper shoulders—an unusual treatment. The sides are set with navette-shaped carnelian cabochons in scalloped collet settings. The carnelians have nice caramel coloring and good translucency. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 10.9 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold ovoid fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob features oval and round mixed-cut citrines in fluted collet settings. The stones along the sides are in a medium honey color, while the bottom stone is deep amber. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 15.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 32.2 carats.

A nice 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with oval brilliant cut citrines. The stones have intense orangey-yellow color and the gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.76 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A heavy 18K yellow gold fob Etruscan-style fob, charm or pendant in the form of an ancient Greco-Roman amphora. The gold surfaces are covered in an ornate pattern of twisted rope and rosettes. The upper shoulders of the urn are set with a pair of cabochon citrines of dark amber color and the lower portion is set with a pair of cabochon garnets. The design is finished by a pair of rope-twist handles. The charm is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: very good; one garnet has surface abrasions and nicks to the collet setting visible on close inspection. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long. Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 4.88 cts; citrine, 3.38 cts.

A very fine 18K yellow gold fob charm set with coral cameos. The faces are similar to comedy and tragedy masks, with one frowning, one smiling and one somewhere in between. The cameos are very nicely carved and have the strong coloration typical of Mediterranean coral from the Italian coast. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with beading and twisted wirework. This is one of the nicer and more unusual large fob charms we’ve seen over the years. The fob is marked “750” for 18K gold and bears an Italian maker’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-9/16” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 18.1 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold egg-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with oval and round coral cabochons. The coral is the intense orangey-red shade displayed by coral along the Mediterranean coast. Unlike most fob charms of this type, this example is hinged and opens to serve as a small container. In Victorian times, such a container would have held a small pad soaked in perfume so a lady wouldn't have to endure the smells on the streets. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 13.6 grams.

An outstanding lantern-shaped Etruscan-style 18K gold charm/pendant featuring coral cabochons. The gold surfaces are worked with intricate beading and twisted wirework. The decorative gold work is among the best we’ve seen on this type of charm. The coral has pure orange-red color and nice polish. The jump ring is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and the charm is tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” high (excluding jump ring); 1-1/4” wide
• Weight: 19.9 grams

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A superb Ventian Etruscan pendant or charm set with citrine, smoky quartz, green and green tourmaline, aquamarine, blue topaz, hessonite garnet, and almandine garnet. These large pendants come in many different shapes, but this is the first time we've seen one in the shape of a six-pointed star (Star of David.) The gemstones are nicely colored and all the gold surfaces are enhanced with intricate ropetwist and beaded decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 3.0 cts; smoky quartz, 3.0 cts; tourmaline, 1.6 cts; aquamarine, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.