Catalog (2409)

A delightful set of six sterling silver Art Deco cocktail picks with finials in the form of the Devil. The little naked figure grasps a flaming torch in one upraised hand and his tail is replaced by the business end of the cocktail pick. No doubt, the picks were intended to remind one, rather tongue in cheek, of the sin of drinking! Each pick is fully hallmarked for Barker Brothers Silver Ltd. The picks are presented in their original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1929.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box is very good with minor discoloration to the velvet lining.
• Dimensions: picks, 3-17/32” long.
• Weight: 26.8 grams.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

An exquisite pair of Art Deco heavy 18K yellow gold snap cufflinks. Each round face is designed as a lion’s head superimposed over the classic French sunburst motif that made a reappearance in the decorative arts during the Art Deco period. The quality of workmanship is superb, with outstanding detailing in the design. Gold snap cufflinks are quite uncommon. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K “tete d’aigle” gold hallmarks and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 17.0 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks. Unlike most stirrup cufflinks that have a rounded triangular shape, this pair has a severe angled shape that heightens the Art Deco appeal of the design. This type of cufflink was first popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s and remained popular in France through the mid-century. The surfaces are decorated with bright-cut engraving. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an unknown maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1-1/8" x 9/32" wide. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A handsome man’s 14 yellow gold ring set with a large bloodstone tablet. The dramatically tapered shank is engraved on either side of the stone with a stylized papyrus motif. The bloodstone has a slightly lighter than usual greenish tint that contrasts nicely with its red markings. The interior of the shank is stamped “14Kâ€.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 13/16†x 3/4"; shank tapers from 13/16†to 1/8â€. Finger Size: 10. Weight: 9.0 gr.

An attractive pair of gilt 800 silver double-faced cufflinks. The round faces are simply decorated with concentric rings bordering central gilt reserves. The faces are joined with the hinge bridge connectors more often seen in Scandinavian designs. The connectors are marked “800” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “EP” in a diamond-shaped punch.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, original gilding intact. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

Porcelain decanter in the shape of a bellhop, complete with his ring of keys, decorated with overglaze red, black and pink enamels. The bottom is marked "Germany" and also has a decorator's mark.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1920. Condition: Light glaze crazing; a small chip on the cap and three small flakes at the bottom edge are visible in the photos (all could be easily repaired). Size: 9-1/2" tall.

A stunning Art Deco gentleman’s dress set comprising a pair of double-faced platinum cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round platinum faces are enhanced with ridged decoration and feature round old European-cut diamonds. The faces are attached with removable connectors for ease in putting them through cuff holes. The backs are marked with Swiss platinum hallmarks and Imperial Austrian import marks. Both marks are no longer in use, and by cross-referencing the marks, we can determine that the cufflinks date to 1914-21.

The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.

Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.

Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.

An elegant Art Deco bracelet comprising nine plaques joined with double rosette links. The cast plaques are decorated with an ornate floral pattern and are richly gilt. Each is collet-set with a squared cabochon chrysoprase. The milky green color of the gemstones is very nice against the dark gold of the gilding. The clasp is marked with Hungarian silver hallmarks, and the back is marked “Made In Hungary”, indicating the piece was made for export to the U.S.

Origin: Hungary, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, gilding intact. Size: 7-1/4” long. Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.6 carats.

A sterling silver corkscrew by International Silver in one of the company’s 1930s Art Deco designs. Clearly patterned after the popular Scandinavian designs of the period, this design is very similar to “Royal Danish”, “Sonja” and “Norse”. The handle is marked with International’s older hallmark and the pattern number “NX14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, no dings, sharp details. Size: handle width, 4-5/16”; length, 4-5/8”.

A fine Art Deco 800 silver graduated jigger in an exaggerated flaring design. The sections measure 1, 1 1/2, and 2 1/2 ounces. The bottom is stamped for 800 silver and has an Italian mark used 1935-38 that was applied to finished silver goods already in the inventories of Italian jewelers and silversmiths.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 2 1/8” tall; 2 1/2” wide at rim
• Weight: 36.0 grams

A beautiful pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold and natural green chalcedony cufflinks by Krementz. The cut-cornered rectangular faces are set with plaques of vivid green chalcedony surrounded by borders decorated in an angular raised diamond pattern. Cufflinks set with green gemstones are difficult to find, and this is a particularly attractive pair. The connectors are stamped 14K and have the Krementz hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 1/2 inch. Weight: 9.3 grams.

Lovely Art Deco quadruple strand necklace composed of white seed beads flanking two lapis lazuli hemispheres alternating with three rings of channel-set paste.

Origin: American, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: 15" long.

A fine pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with sugarloaf cabochons of colorful jasper chalcedony. The pattern of inclusions is similar to moss agate, but the greenish wisps appear against a semi-transparent background of deep rust instead of the more typical creamy beige. They’re really quite attractive stones in an unusual pattern. The faces are attached by solid connectors stamped with Larter’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.5 grams.

Stunning set of four enameled cocktail glasses, almost certainly by Moser. The quality of the glass is superlative. The enameled rooster motif is magnified through the thick glass of the base, so that it looks quite large from inside the bowl (it might be a bit frightening after drinking an entire martini!) The bowls are lightly paneled and are edged in a thin line of gilding.

One glass has a flake at the bottom edge (see photo) and two pinpoint roughnesses along the top rim. Another has a couple of pinpoint roughnesses underneath the bottom edge (not noticeable from the top).

3-1/2" tall.

These are certainly among the finest cocktail glasses we've seen and would look great with a classic cocktail shaker featuring a rooster motif.

A rare silverplate cocktail recipe disk by Napier. The silverplate case holds a celluloid dial that can be rotated to show printed recipes for twenty classic cocktails. A jump bail allows the disk to be hung by a chain around a cocktail shaker or decanter. The rim is marked "Napier Pat. Pend." We've never seen this particular Napier design before.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, very minor plating wear as is typical of Napier pieces. Dimensions: 2" diameter.

A classic silverplated single-serving cocktail shaker by Napier in 1934 specifically to be sold at Saks Fifth Avenue. The shakers were made in two variations, one with a dial on the top indicating the type of cocktail within and this version, with the profile of a rooster on the lid. The shaker has a built-in strainer and pouring spout. When removed, the lid becomes a footed cocktail glass. The bottom of the shaker is stamped "Napier Pat. Pend."

• Origin: America, ca. 1934.
• Dimensions: 6 1/2" tall.
• Condition: very good; light wear to plating as is typical of all Napier silverplated items; a pinpoint and a 1/4" ding to the side of the cap/cup.

A very attractive pair of late Arts & Crafts or early Art Deco silver cufflinks by Saethers Gull og Solvvarefabrikk, a Norwegian silversmith known for inventive designs. One face of each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting through the cuff. The connectors are fully hallmarked.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 27/32” x 1/2. Weight: 15.5 grams.

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks set with calibre-cut blue sapphires designed by the Russian émigré jeweler Olga Tritt for sale at her Park Avenue boutique in New York. The arches of the cufflinks are set with rows calibre-cut intensely-colored blue sapphires.

Tritt specialized in antique jewelry, but supplemented her selection with an array of her own luxury designs, mostly made in France to her specifications. Her client roster included many luminaries, including the Duchess of Windsor. These cufflinks are unsigned, but the particular elongated figure-8 style of the hinged connectors was unique to Tritt. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, circa 1935
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16" (20 x 24 mm)
• Weight: 14.9 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.03 carats

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.

A superb pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the octagonal faces worked in platinum over gold. Each face features sugarloaf cabochon sapphire of fine, vividly saturated blue. Each cabochon is flanked by four rectangular sapphires flush-mounted with milgrained borders. The faces are joined with chain connectors. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.99 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.16 cts.

A lovely Art Deco white gold and platinum filigree bracelet featuring three diamond-set frosted and engraved crystal plaques alternating with bezel-set pale blue spinels. The use of pale blue spinels the color of aquamarines is a very unusual treatment in a bracelet of this type, and the overall effect is very pretty. All the platinum surfaces are engraved in a delicate foliate motif. The clasp is stamped for 14K and platinum and has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crystal plaques, 9/16” wide; overall length, 8-1/8”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: spinel, 1.18 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A nice pair of oval-faced cufflinks worked in platinum over 18K gold, each face set with a 4-pt single-cut diamond and a 4-pt square step cut blue sapphire. The stones are set on the bias and are highlighted with raised platinum bars that are slightly polished to contrast with the matte finish of the surround platinum background. The faces are connected by chains to gold torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: probably continental Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original, one of the torpedo backs has a small ding on the side. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 carat; sapphire, .08 carat.

An extremely fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Each square face is centered with a gypsy-set old European cut diamond, and has square cut blue sapphires at each corner. The stones have excellent color and clarity, especially the sapphires, which are bright blue. The platinum is finished with a matte surface, causing the gemstones to seem even more vibrant. The faces have pierced galleries around the edges and are attached to baton backs with chains. The outer surface of the batons are also worked in matte platinum. The geometric styling of these cufflinks is a very good example of early Art Deco.

Origin: Europe, possibly France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/32" x 15/32". Weight: 7.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.

A superb Art Deco platinum ring set with a cat’s-eye chrysoberyl cabochon flanked at each shoulder by a row of square step-cut diamonds. The chrysoberyl is of the finest quality, with a strong well-centered white eye against a strongly greenish-yellow background—precisely the combination that yields the desirable “milk and honey” effect. The cabochon is nicely cut and has very good symmetry. The diamonds are of exceptional quality, with D/E color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The platinum mounting has a matte finish that nicely accents the stones. The interior of the shank is marked “Irid Plat”.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.

A stunning Art Deco platinum ring featuring an antique cushion cut 9.03-carat Ceylon sapphire flanked on either side by three baguette diamonds arranged in a stepped pattern. The sapphire is graded on the GIA scale as vB5/4 (medium tone, moderate-strong saturation, violetish blue color), with eye-clean clarity and excellent cut. The stone's internal characteristics suggest Ceylon as the most likely origin. The overall look is a lovely cornflower blue with a tinge of violet mixed in. The stone is brilliant and easily stands up to the side diamonds, graded as F/VS1. The shank is stamped with French hallmarks for platinum and for 18K (the prongs holding the sapphire are 18K white gold). The interior of the shank is stamped with a serial number and a maker's signature that is now obscured. A stone of this size and quality, complete with a serial number, would suggest a major Parisian house as the maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; the shank is in very good condition; minute scattered facet junction wear on the sapphire. Dimensions: crown, 11/16" x 1/2". Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 9.03 cts; diamond, .60 ct.

A gorgeous Art Deco platinum mounting sprinkled with diamonds and featuring a pair of round brilliant cut aquamarines. The crown of the ring rises well up off the finger, creating a sort of umbrella effect that nestles the aquamarines. The diamonds larger diamonds in the setting are old European cuts and the smaller ones are single cuts. All are in the H/I color range with VS clarity. The mounting is finished with expert milgraining and ornate piercing.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 1/16” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 2.14 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces comprising rectangular black onyx plaques centered with 1/2-carat round brilliant-cut diamonds in collet settings. The ends of the onyx tablets are finished with highly polished rounded platinum shoulders with ridged decoration. This same decorative element appears on the baton backs. The diamonds are of exceptional quality with strong fire. The color is estimated at E/F and the clarity at VVS1. The cufflinks are masterfully constructed and are quite heavy. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 13/32” (16 x 10 mm). Weight: 14.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

A phenomenal and very heavy Art Deco dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three matching shirt studs. The faces have a slightly rounded triangular outline and are trisected by raised bands of channel-set square step-cut blue sapphires. The points where the sapphire bands meet are collet-set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The visual effect is reminiscent of airplane propellers. The natural sapphires have medium-dark, vividly saturated, slightly violetish-blue color. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS clarity. The platinum surfaces have a slightly matte finish. Each face is stamped "10% Irid/90% Plat". The spring mechanism on the backs of the studs are 14K white gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 5/8" x 5/8"; studs, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 42.89 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .90 carat; sapphire, 2.75 carats.

An elegant Art Deco ring in platinum set with diamonds, sapphires and a 7-mm pearl. The octagonal face is bordered with sixteen single-cut diamonds (H/SI2) enclosing a border of calibre-cut sapphires around the center pearl. The pearl has excellent luster and overtones. The inside of the shank is marked "10% Irid Platinum".

Origin: America, ca 1920

Condition: excellent, the pearl likely replaced a center diamond

Dimensions: crown 1/2" x 1/2"

Finger Size: 4-1/2

Weight: 6.0 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 carat; sapphire, .25 carat

An exquisite Art Deco platinum filigree ring set with a 1.14 carat old European cut diamond surrounded by caliber-cut onyx and coral in a sort of Moorish design. The diamond is graded as H color and SI1 clarity. All the stones are set in millgrained bezel settings. The surrounded coral has very saturated, even coloring that contrasts beautifully with the onyx and the sparkle of the diamond. Strong color contrast is especially associated with Art Deco jewels. The shank is set with three small diamonds to each side of the crown. The ring is completed with an ornately pierced gallery.

Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

An elegant Art Deco platinum filigree ring centered by a .70 old European cut diamond mounted in an octagonal surround of caliber cut synthetic sapphires (typical of genuine Art Deco period rings). The platinum setting is beautifully pierced at the front and the shank is engraved in a foliate pattern completely around. The diamond is graded as G/H color and VVS1 clarity, and has excellent cut with fine brilliance. The sapphires are bright and provide a nice pop of color. The interior of the shank is engraved with a pair of monograms and the date 2/19/27.

Origin: America, 1927. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 3.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco earrings featuring faceted onyx rings suspended from platinum and yellow gold surmounts set with rose cut diamonds. Each onyx ring encloses a platinum element with rose-cut diamonds set in a foliate pattern and further suspending a prong-set old European cut diamond. All the parts are fully articulated, so the earrings have a lot of movement. The platinum is finely millegrained. The center diamonds are I color, SI2 clarity. The earrings retain their original level backs. The earrings are stamped with French gold and platinum marks that were used for goods imported from the U.S.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long; 1” wide. Weight: 8.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 ct.

A wonderful pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Ravinet d Enfert, probably retailed by Hermès. Each of the faces is crafted as a different suite in a deck of cards and is finished with red or black opaque enamel. The faces are connected with chains. Each cufflink is marked for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Ravinet d’Enfert. Like most other luxury houses, Hermès did not make their own jewelry, but retailed pieces designed and manufactured by Ravinet d’Enfert to their specifications. This pair of cufflinks is not signed Hermès, but was mostly likely sold through the Paris shop.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2” Weight: 7.1 gr.

A brilliant red transparent lucite jewelry box or dresser box, the hinged lid inset with a sterling silver medallion illustrating a pair of lovebirds. The interior of the lid has a small round mirror. The medallion is stamped "Sterling" and has a design patent number registered in 1945.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 4-3/4" x 3-15/16" x 1-3/4"