Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A pretty Victorian 14K gold locket, the cover featuring a lion rampant with a shield. The edges of the locket are worked in an ornate rococo design that is mirrored on the large suspension ring. The interior retains the original glass cover and frame insert. The back is engraved with a period “WWW” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: locket diameter 1”; overall length, 2”
• Weight: 10.7 grams

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the “mors de filet” or “snaffle” design. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a woven design. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked and has the master goldsmith's mark for Gaetan de Percin.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955

• Condition: excellent, all original

• Dimensions: 9 x 16 mm (5/8 x 3/8 in)

• Weight: 9.9 grams

Edwardian 18K gold and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds. The front faces are fashioned as spheres, the top half worked in platinum and the lower half in gold. The top of sphere features a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The back faces are designed as a crossbar set with diamonds, the ends terminating in smaller spheres, each set with a diamond. The appearance is very attractive, with a little sparkle but an overall masculine appeal. The backs are marked with unidentified Continental hallmarks.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: spheres, 3/8" diameter; bars, 3/4" long. Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

The assymetrical setting of colored Tahitian pearls against the strictly geometric triangular shape of the the 18K gold setting gives this modernist pendant a striking look. The pearls include a 8.18 mm aubergine with rose overtones at the upper left, a 9.20 mm silver-gray with rose overtones at left, and a 9.18 mm silver-blue with aqua overtones at the bottom right. All have very good lustre and smooth surfaces. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (Ste. P with a pi symbol). We have shown the pendant on chain for display purposes--it would benefit from a heavier chain, perhaps a box link.

• Excellent condition.
• 3/4" x 1 3/8".
• 10.8 grams.

An elegant Victorian snowflake pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with old mine cut diamonds. The overall effect is very delicate with a lot of sparkle. The center diamond is approximate .33 carat and is graded as I/J, I1; the other diamonds, each .10 carat are I/J color and SI1/2 clarity. The pendant has a folding bail and retains the original pinstem which disappears nicely when being worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.53 carats
• Weight: 7.5 grams

An elegant 5-piece dress set worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum by Carrington. The set, comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, features round mother-of-pearl faces enclosed within engraved platinum borders and centered with small natural pearls. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each piece is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Size: cufflink faces, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K gold cufflinks, the faces depicting a mythological dragon with a scaly body and feathered wings. The cufflinks are very finely detailed. The back are stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/19” diameter
• Weight: 9.8 grams

A very nice pair of Victorian double-faced 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with trios of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. The diamonds are old mine cut, while the sapphires and rubies are cabochons. The colored stones are of very good color and show now indications of heat treatment. The gold surfaces are worked with the slightly matte Russian finish popular for higher quality jewelry of the period. Jewelry set with red, white and blue gemstones tended to gain popularity around key anniversaries or important events in American history. It is likely that these cufflinks date to the centennial year of 1876. The back of each face is marked 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21/32" x 13/32". Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .16 ct; sapphire, .23 ct; ruby, .23 ct.

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant centered with an old European cut diamond. The diamond is H color, SI1 clarity. The back is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as a pair of discs joined by a diamond-shaped reserve. Each of the discs is engraved in a starburst motif, while the reserves feature oval star sapphire cabochons. The sapphires have good translucency and even, grayish-blue coloring. The stars are very distinct, bright and well-centered. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4" x 11/16". Weight: 15.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.75 cts.

A very unusual pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, one end the traditional ball shape and the other in a geometric “rooftop” shape. Louis Tamis & Sons opened in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other luxury objects. In the 1930s, the company manufactured for Paul Flato. By mid-century, it had become on of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers, creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears Tamis’ hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: “rooftop” faces, 1/2” x 1/2”; ball faces, 3/8” diam.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A very fine pair of Victorian figural cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold. The front faces are in the shape of ceremonial Scottish halberds. The shafts are set with round and antique cushion cut rubies and the heads are set with rose-cut diamonds. The rubies have nicely saturated color that contrasts well with the glitter of the diamonds. The rubies show no indications of heat treatment and their internal characteristics suggest they are of Burmese origin. The figural faces are joined with chains to baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The Scottish halberd was a distinctive type of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century. It eventually became a ceremonial object used by the Scottish nobility. Queen Victoria’s fondness for Scotland ensured that all things Scottish became very popular, and traditional emblems such as the halberd sometimes appeared in fashionable jewelry.

Circa 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 1” x 9/16”. Weight: 5.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .38 ct; ruby, .74 ct.

A fine 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with deep translucent guilloche enamel over an engine-turned background surrounded by a reeded border enameled in opaque white. The front is centered with an old mine cut diamond. The trefoil-shaped bail is an especially nice touch. The interior retains the original frame insert. The bail is marked for 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

NOTE: This locket was very difficult to photograph. The purple enamel is deeply saturated and looks quite dark viewed directly. When the light strikes at an angle, however, the translucency of the purple comes shining through to show the underlying enraving.

• America, ca. 1910
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage; no dings; no monogram
• Dimensions: 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .04 carat

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

A lovely pair of Victorian earrings worked in 14K yellow, rose and green gold depicting a mother bird watching over her nest of three tiny eggs. The bird is nicely three-dimensional for added interest. The design is simply finished with a zigzag border. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, earwires are replacements
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding wires)
• Weight: 5.2 grams

A very attractive pair of Napoleon III 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the canted square faces studded with round mixed-cut rubies and old mine cut diamonds. The rubies are in the finest color-range, with strongly saturated, very slightly purplish-red hue. The nature of the inclusions in the stones suggests they are Burmese in origin. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality. The gold surface has a very subtle texturizing treatment that suggests moiré silk. The connectors are marked with a variety of French 18K hallmarks, including that of the guarantee office in Nancy and the “tete de Mercure” mark used 1840-1879.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 10.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .128 ct; diamond, .112 ct.

A handsome pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl plaques, each centering a bezel-set pink sapphire cabochon. The color contrast is quite attractive. The connectors are removable for ease in putting on the cufflinks. The cufflinks have nice weight and are comfortable to wear. Each is marked “18K” and also bears French import marks.

• Origin: possibly England or America, ca. 1910.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.12 carat.
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings or chips.

An elegant Georgian 18K gold fob seal worked in a floral pattern and set at the base with an amethyst tablet engraved with an armorial crest. The floral design continues up the shoulders to the loop by which the fob would have been hung from a watch chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1815
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 11/16" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 13.2 grams