Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, fashioned as a comet, each of the heads set with a cabochon pink tourmaline and the tails set with a string of graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as J color, SI2 clarity. Comet jewelry has been intermittently popular since the early 19th century, and it usually appears on the scene around the same time as a close encounter with a major comet such as Halley's, which appeared in 1986. These cufflinks roughly date to that period. The backs are marked "18K" and have a maker's mark that appears to be that of Goodman & Co. of Indianapolis.

Origin: America, ca. 1986. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1/2". Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; tourmaline, 4.88 ct.

A wonderful pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, each spherical end cast in a sort of alligator hide pattern studded with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have fine coloring and brilliance, as would be expected of Van Cleef. One cufflink is fully marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/12V12-4/18K" and the other is marked "18K."

• Origin: America (NY), ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" diameter; smaller faces, 3/8" diameter.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .51 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

Handsome 14K yellow gold and sterling silver brooch signed by David Yurman. The center hexagon is set with a hematite cabochon above a collet-set round brilliant-cut pink sapphire, and is flanked with by rope-twist extensions highlighted with 14K gold banding. The back is signed “D. Yurman 14K Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3-5/16” x 1”. Weight: 16.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hematite, 13.36 carats; pink sapphire, .2 carat.

A fascinating pair of Irish sterling silver cufflinks, the faces formed from flattened spheres of carved rock crystal set in a silver band. The faces are joined with solid connectors to ball backs. The mountings are indistinctly marked with Irish hallmarks and also have a maker’s mark “RK”.

Origin: Ireland, 1971. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16” diameter.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

A classic pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks with knot ends by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks have substantial weight and are very comfortable to wear. Each connector is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16” diameter; smaller faces, 7/16” diameter.
• Weight: 21.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; original box.

A vintage pair of Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold earrings in a classic ribbed shrimp design. The earrings have posts and omega backs. Marked "T&C 750".

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" long; 3/8" maximum width

Weight: 14.9 grams

This 23-1/2" 18K yellow gold box chain is heavy enough for a large pendant or locket. Box chains are especially attractive with more contemporary designs, and unlike some other chain styles, they don't crimp or become easily tangled. In addition to the primary clasp, the chain also has a safety chain. Marked with French 18K gold hallmarks and master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Condition: excellent; one spring ring has been replaced with a gold filled spring ring.
• Dimensions: length: 23-1/2"; width 1.5mm.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single blue sapphire that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich violet-blue color and internal characteristics of the sapphires to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold, is signed with Schepps’ hallmark and has the design serial number. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 34.0 carats.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold and steel earrings by Fred of Paris. The original FORCE 10 line was created by French jeweler Fred Samuels in 1966 and was based on pieces of rigging found on sailboats. Since 1936, the Parisian house had been one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, the Samuels’ combination of precious metals with stainless steel was a shocking innovation. In the forty years since the collection debuted, Fred of Paris has continually tweaked the collection by adding gemstones or other decorative elements—in this case cloisonné enamel. The translucent green, red and blue flowers appearing against an opaque white background gives the earclips a casual style that meshes nicely with the gold and steel setting. They’d be perfect to wear with either jeans or business attire. The backs are fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K gold standard, and are signed “Fred of Paris/Force 10”.

Origin: France, ca. 1990-1998. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” long; 7/16” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the snaffle bit (“mors de filet”) or flip-up style modeled on a horse bit. The circular faces are simply enhanced with tubular concentric rings. The design is elegant, but casual enough to wear with a sport coat or event jeans. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A classic vintage Mikimoto brooch featuring pearls set in 14K yellow gold. The swirled design includes ten pearls of superb quality, estimated at AA quality. The surfaces are smooth, the luster is bright and the body color is cream with rose overtones. The pearls range in size from 5.5 to 7.7 millimeters. The gold “leaves” are pierced to provide a sense of lightness despite the pin’s relatively generous size. The back retains the original typical Mikimoto clasp and is signed with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-3/8”.