Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

An exceptionally fine Pampillonia 18K gold brooch in the form of a running thoroughbred horse mounted by a jockey. The workmanship is simply outstanding. Every detail of the horse's flying tail and the musculature underlying the coat are beautifully worked. The folds and wrinkles of the jockey's silks are equally detailed. The horse's eye is set with a small round ruby and the hoof of a hind leg touches on a .18-carat round brilliant cut diamond, graded as J color, SI2 clarity. The use of a yellow-green gold is an inspired choice that somehow keeps the rather heavy brooch from appearing overwhelming. The pin is unsigned, but is definitely by Pampillonia. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 2010
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-3/8"
• Weight: 30.8 grams

A fascinating pair of Irish sterling silver cufflinks, the faces formed from flattened spheres of carved rock crystal set in a silver band. The faces are joined with solid connectors to ball backs. The mountings are indistinctly marked with Irish hallmarks and also have a maker’s mark “RK”.

Origin: Ireland, 1971. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16” diameter.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

An 18K white gold ring in classic Van Cleef & Arpels style, set with round brilliant diamonds and round sapphires. The sapphires are intensely colored and have eye-clean clarity. The diamonds are E/F color and VVS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is signed and bears complete serial numbers, maker’s mark and French 18K guarantee stamps.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.00 ct; diamond, .24 ct.

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

A nice pair of sterling silver cufflinks with an subtle Art Deco engraved floral motif. The solid connectors are joined to hinged backs. Each connector is stamped with Polish sterling marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Poland, ca. 1986 (the pattern is likely from the 1920s). Condition: excellent; sharp detail; unpolished. Dimensions: 13/16" x 1/2". Weight: 10.6 gr.

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, the ends formed from lapis spheres carved in a traditional braided knot pattern. The gold connectors are decorated with a twist motif. The lapis has a evenly-distributed dark violetish-blue color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” long; beads, 11mm diameter. Weight: 9.0 gr.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

An extremely attractive pair of cufflinks worked in 18K white gold, the faces featuring plaques of black mother of pearl set with diamonds. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the usual light color and displays a beautiful pearly luster with overtones of green and rose that can be clearly seen in the photos. The diamonds have bright color, estimated at F, and VVS clarity. Solid connectors join the faces to hinged toggles. The connectors are marked “750” for 18K gold, and have an unidentified maker’s mark “LG”.

• Origin: probably Continental Europe, ca. 1980
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Weight: 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats.

A magnificent set of cufflinks the five shirt studs worked in 18K yellow and white gold set with diamonds. The face of each cufflink and stud is formed as a white gold star surrounded by a foliate and beaded yellow gold border. The stars are set with brilliant round-cut diamonds of extremely fine quality, estimated at F color, VSI clarity. The outer gold edges have fine saw-pierced galleries. The backs of the cufflinks have a toggle closure and the studs have double-folding flanges. This set is most unusual in that it includes five shirt studs. The quality of workmanship is at a level of the most exclusive makers. The presence of five studs indicates that the set was probably a custom order, since most formal shirts have only three or four holes for studs. The advantage of the fifth stud, of course, is that if you lose one of the others you have a ready replacement! The yellow gold is intensely yellow—a shade not usually achieved below 20K. Each piece is marked “750” for 18K gold and is signed “DIF”.

Origin: probably European, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 25.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.25 carats.

A pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s classic “Caviar” pattern. Introduced in the early 1980’s, this design takes its name from the row of gold spheres the run through the center of the scroll. The design was used for a several styles of earrings, as well as bracelets and other jewels. These earrings are a smaller style and are more comfortable to wear than many of the other pieces. The omega clips are original, but posts could be added easily. Each earring is signed and dated 1981.

Origin: America, 1981. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16”. Weight: 19.5 grams.

An outstanding, oversized pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks fashioned as lengths of bamboo by Cartier. The surfaces are worked in the Florentine finish popular in mid-century jewelry. The "notches" in the bamboo are polished for nice contrast. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are marked "Cartier/18K/Italy" and have the serial number "26464".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 1-5/16" x 5/8"; back faces, 15/16" x 5/16". Weight: 23.3 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A fine pair of lapis lazuli cufflinks mounted in 18K yellow gold. The front faces are panel-cut lapis spheres and the backs are round lapis tablets set in twisted rope borders. The lapis is fine quality with just a tiny smattering of glittery pyrite. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca 1970

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: front faces, 7/16" diameter

Weight: 8.4 grams

Beautiful 14K yellow gold and cultured pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The swirling gold frame is punctuated with very high quality pearls post-set pearls and can be worn either horizontally or vertically. The pearls have superb lustre and Mikimoto's classic ivory color with rose overtones. The sizes range from 5 to 7mm. The back is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 10.0 grams.

A stunning 19K yellow gold enhancer pendant intended for a thick chain or a strang of beads by Elizabeth Locke. The oval pendant encloses a gorgeous labradorite cabochon glowing with the billowy blue color of the best labradorite. The central stone is accented at compass points by round brilliant-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have a slightly violet tint and exceptional brilliance. The bail is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain or onto a strand of beads or pearls. The interior of the bail is has Locke’s signature and is marked “19K”. The pendant is presented in its original Elizabeth Locke silk pouch. A similar pendant currently retails for $3,600.

Origin: America, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.6 grams.