Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

Very stylish vintage 14K yellow gold brooch by Tiffany & Co. The simple flowing design will nicely accent a business suit or a little black dress. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K Germany". Ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/16" x 5/8". Weight: 4.0 grams.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of horse stirrups. The toggle backs are marked “585” and “Germany 14Kt” and have the maker’s mark “MV”.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 5/8”. Weight: 9.0 grams.

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

An outstanding Venetian Etruscan Revival 18K yellow gold fob charm in the form of a crown. The bottom of the charm is set with a 9-carat oval brilliant amethyst of nice color. The sides of the charm are set with small round glass gemstones imitating small amethysts. The upper scrolls of the crown enclose a round cultured pearl. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 1-1/4” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.04 cts.

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

A beautiful double-strand pearl and 18K yellow gold bracelet by Mikimoto. The bracelet comprises 48 pearls, graded as fine AA. The pearls are 6.5 to 7.00 mm. The color is medium cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the nacre is of medium thickness. The pearls are beautifully matched, as would be expected of Mikimoto. The strands are separated by two gold station spacers and are completed with an 18K yellow gold box clasp with repousse floral decoration and a 4.2 mm pearl. The clasp is fully hallmarked for 18K and is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark. The strand is accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $4,650.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, no pearl damage, secure stringing. Size: 7-1/4” long.

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.

Silver gilt cufflinks encrusted with 2.2 carats of rose-cut pyrope garnets. The garnets have beautiful color, without being too flashy. The settings and overall workmanship is very nice. The toggle backs have Czech hallmarks for 900 silver.

Origin: Bohemia, Czech Republic, circa 1965. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16” x 1/2”. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 2.2 carats. Weight: 11.25 grams.

A heavy pair of mid-century double-sided cufflinks, the faces woven from gold rope. The overall look is similar to the Parisian work of Georges Lenfant. The back faces are smaller for ease in putting them through the cuff. The faces are joined by figure-8 connectors stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2” x 1/2" x 1/2”; smaller faces 3/8” x 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 23.4 grams

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A phenomenal dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with green cat's-eye tourmalines. The settings are designed in a thistle pattern similar to Jean Schlumberger's designs for Tiffany. All the details are entirely hand-engraved and each piece looks as good from the side or back as it does from the front. The fine tourmalines have strongly bluish-green color, well-placed bright chatoyancy (cat's-eye effect), and very good symmetry and polish. Each cufflink is illegibly signed. The mechanical portion of the shirt studs are marked "14K", but all the other parts of the settings are tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflink front faces, 5/8" x 7/16"; cufflink back faces, 7/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 22.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 20.87 cts.

An interesting silver pendant depicting the solar system and the attributes of the sign Leo—a lion and a depiction of the sun representing the heavenly body that rules those born into Leo. The pendant is signed “AC” and is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/4”
• Weight: 5.2 grams

An extraordinary 18K gold and gemstone ring by H Stern in the brutalist style of the 1950s and 60s. The design ethic is evident in the jagged outlines, arching construction and jarring color juxtapositions. As with all H Stern jewelry of the period, the amethysts, peridots and hessonite garnets are of excellent quality. The gold surfaces are stippled for additional interest. This ring surpasses being mere jewelry, becoming architecture for the hand. The interior of the shank is stamped with Stern's hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-7/16" wide
• Finger Size: 9
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hessonite garnet, 2.16 carats; peridot, 1.83 carats; amethyst, 1.8 carats
• Weight: 17.8 grams

Lovely vintage brooch by Mikimoto featuring five stunning pearls set in a triple arch of sterling silver. The pearls, graduating from 5 to 5.5 mm, are of the finest quality. The body color is white with an ivory overtone. The lustre is excellent. The back of the brooch is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark and "S" for sterling.

Origin: Japan, circa 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8" x 1-5/8". Weight: 7.0 grams.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Georges Lenfant for Mauboussin. The faces are designed as four interlocking squares decorated with three types of surface treatment--high polish, florentine engraving, and wood-textured engraving. The hinged backs are finished with florentine engraving. The connectors are signed "Mauboussin Paris" and have serial numbers, French 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark for Georges Lenfant.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Hermès, Mellerio and Maubousssin. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 15.6 gr.

A classic pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Larter. The oval faces are collet-set with black onyx plaques inlaid with gold reserves decorated in a Florentine finish. The gold inlays are star-set with round brilliant cut diamonds of nice quality. The toggle backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and are also marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 ct.

A particularly attractive large Italian 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four large blue chalcedony oval cabochons. The use chalcedony is rather unusual in these pendant/charms and the rich blue color is especially nice against the gold. NOTE: The blue in the photos are more intense than the actual subtle violet-blue color of the stones. The gold surfaces are enhanced with applied rosettes, beading and twisted wire decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-1/2". Weight: 11.7 gr.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A pair of Modernist 14K gold and sapphire cufflinks in the brutalist style. The gold surfaces are etched in a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the rich blue sapphires. The toggles are marked "14K".

• ORIGIN America, ca 1970
• DIMENSIONS 1 1/8" x 3/8"
• WEIGHT 14.8 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: sapphire, .84 carat
• CONDITION excellent

An elegant modernist long chain necklace worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring black onyx and green nephrite jade beads. The onyx beads are carved in a melon motif, while the jade beads are left smooth. The jade has even, lightly-mottled color and good translucency. At 33”, the necklace is long enough to be worn at full length or doubled. The combination of strong colors with the yellow gold is very chic. The clasp is marked by an unidentified maker “Ste F”.

Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A very rare pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. designed as coiled dolphin-like sea monsters. The scales are highlighted with translucent blue champleve enamel and the eyes are set with cabochon rubies. The cufflinks are hinged and clasp together by inserting the creature's tail into its own jaws. The interior of each cufflink is marked "Tiffany 18K". There is no designer mark, but the work is very similar in style, quality and aesthetic to the designs created by Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin in the 1960s.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, a 1/32" nick to the enamel on one cufflink. Size: 1" x 1-18". Weight: 21.6 grams.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A very nice pair of 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks, the batons worked with engraved reeding and each bound in a diagonal slash of gold with a hand-stippled surface. The baton faces are hinged so they can lie tightly against the cuff. The connectors are marked “18K Cherny”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8” long. Weight: 10.6 gr.

A pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks with a classic 1960's brushed gold texture. The texture is worked in short sections oriented in random directions, giving the effect of leopard spots in racking light. The toggle backs are worked in a simple ribbed design. The connectors are signed "Cartier" and are also marked "Swiss Made/18K/750." The "Swiss Made" stamp is more often seen on watch cases and indicates that the cufflinks were made by one of Cartier's watchmakers, likely to match a watch dial.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 19/32" (15mm) x 19/32" (15mm). Weight: 13.4 grams.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of sleeve buttons. Each button has a dished surface with a matte decoration and is accented with gold "stitches". The faces are attached by chains to baton backs. The backs are hallmarked with Italian 18K marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

Elegant vintage 14K yellow gold brooch set with eight beautiful Mikimoto pearls. The pearls are, of course, of the very finest quality. They have bright white body color with silver overtones. The surfaces are very smooth and the nacre thick. The pearls range in size from 5 to 7.5 mm. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, circa 1950s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.0 grams.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the square faces set with calibré cut blue sapphires in a raised frame. The sapphires have deep, saturated color that contrasts very nicely the surrounding gold. The surfaces are expertly engraved in what at first appears to be a basketweave pattern, but is in fact a complex plaid pattern. The cufflinks close with an unusual snap mechanism that requires the ends of the back baton face to be pressed in. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15 x 15mm (9/16 x 9/16 in). Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.15 ct.

A wonderfully heavy vintage silver bracelet by Hermès. The bracelet has a triangular profile that stands well out from the surface of the wrist and a masterfully constructed so that it is flexible, but appears rigid when being worn. The inside edges of each link are parcel gilt, so the bracelet sometimes shows the slightest gold hue. This is probably the heaviest Hermès bracelet we have seen. The bracelet is presented in its original vintage fitted Hermès gray box. The bracelet is fully hallmarked with French first standard (950/1000 pure) silver marks and Hermès maker’s mark indicating it was made in the company’s own ateliers instead of being farmed out to other makers as was sometimes the case. The clasp is also signed “Hermès.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 3/8” high; 8-1/4” long
• Weight: 148.0 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams

A handsome pair of 9K yellow gold toggle-back cufflinks, the faces depicting fox heads encircled by horseshoes. The foxes have citrine eyes. All elements are very nicely detailed. The backs are stamped with 9K gold hallmarks, the maker’s mark for Cropp & Farr, and the date mark for 1966.

• Origin: England, 1966
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 9/16”
• Weight: 9.6 grams

A handsome pair of mid-century modern 14K gold and malachite cufflinks reminiscent of an Aztec design. The arch cabochons of malachite have very nice color n markings. The gold surfaces are stippled for added textural interest. The toggle backs are stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Dimensions: faces, 1 1/8" x 23/32"
• Weight: 18.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent