Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and four shirt studs in a slightly squared knot design. The set is well-made and has substantial weight. Each piece is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 9/16" diameter; studs, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 19.2 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. The pendant is presented with its original Tiffany 18" 18K gold chain. This piece currently retails for $2200.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/16"; necklace length, 18".
• Weight: 10.1 grams.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

An extremely attractive pair of cufflinks worked in 18K white gold, the faces featuring plaques of black mother of pearl set with diamonds. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the usual light color and displays a beautiful pearly luster with overtones of green and rose that can be clearly seen in the photos. The diamonds have bright color, estimated at F, and VVS clarity. Solid connectors join the faces to hinged toggles. The connectors are marked “750” for 18K gold, and have an unidentified maker’s mark “LG”.

• Origin: probably Continental Europe, ca. 1980
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Weight: 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

An elegant pair of vintage sterling silver and rosewood inlaid cufflinks by an unknown Taxco maker. The geometric positive and negative space design and is finely executed. The backs are marked “Mexico 925” and have the maker’s registry number “TS-15.”

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• Origin: Taxco, Mexico, circa 1980.
• Dimensions: 29/32” x 5/8” (23 x 16 mm).
• Weight: 14.8 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely 14K yellow gold 5mm cable twist bracelet with a gem-set station from the “Renaissance” collection by David Yurman. The square station features a square step-cut rhodolite garnet flanked with cabochon emeralds at the top and bottom. This design is one of the earlier pieces from the Renaissance collection, and is no longer in production. The open cuff is flexible and can be spread to fit nearly any size wrist. The interior of the bangle is signed “D. Yurman 14K”.

Origin: America. Size: 5mm diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, .79 ct; emerald, .26 ct.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings from Elsa Peretti’s “Comma” collection for Tiffany & Co. These are the large size, which are quite difficult to find. The design was inspired by the simple, sweeping curve of a comma. When worn, the arc mirrors the shape of the ear for a sleek, contemporary look. Each earring is marked by Tiffany and signed Peretti. Only the small size (less than half as long and about a third the weight) are currently available at Tiffany for $3,000.

• Ca 1990
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 7/8” (38 x 19 mm)
• Weight: 13.3 grams

A very handsome 14K yellow dress set comprising cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are formed as slightly arched rectangular faces with canted corners and ropetwist borders. Each face is centered by an oval blue star sapphire, and the cufflinks also feature a pair of gypsy-set diamonds on each side of the star sapphire. The faces have a matte Russian finish that contrasts handsomely with the highly polished rope borders. The star sapphires have fine color, with a slight violet tinge to the blue. The stars are sharp and have straight, fully extended rays. The single-cut diamonds are estimated at J color and I1 clarity. The cufflinks are entirely handcrafted and appear to have been custom-made. The findings are marked 14K and the faces test 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 13/16” x 1”; studs, 9/16” x 1/2". Weight: 38.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; star sapphire, 10.3 carats.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

An iconic pair of 18K yellow gold "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. These earrings were made in several sizes, and this pair is a larger size. The earrings never had posts, but they could be easily added, if desired. The backs are marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K” and signed by Picasso.

• America, ca. 1983
• Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 12.0 grams

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, in a streamlined modern style with a hidden bail, is in one of the rarest versions. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ signature and maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent; the marks on the bottom edge of the pendant in the second photo are lighting reflections only. Dimensions: 3/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 3.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces in the traditional baton style, but with a twist—literally! The toggle backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 3/8”. Weight: 7.9 grams.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, fashioned as a comet, each of the heads set with a cabochon pink tourmaline and the tails set with a string of graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as J color, SI2 clarity. Comet jewelry has been intermittently popular since the early 19th century, and it usually appears on the scene around the same time as a close encounter with a major comet such as Halley's, which appeared in 1986. These cufflinks roughly date to that period. The backs are marked "18K" and have a maker's mark that appears to be that of Goodman & Co. of Indianapolis.

Origin: America, ca. 1986. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1/2". Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; tourmaline, 4.88 ct.

A vintage 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .33 ct round brilliant cut diamond by Cartier. The colored gold is worked in a geometric design around the diamond. The diamond is graded G color, VS2 clarity. The ring has a substantial presence due to the width of the band. The interior is signed "Cartier", is marked "750", is dated "1989" and has the serial number "278QO.25".

Origin: America, 1989. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at front, tapering to 3/8" at back. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A colorful pair of 14K yellow gold earrings by popular New York jewelry designer Sonia Bitton, whose collections have been sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The earrings feature round cut amethysts, citrines, peridots, blue zircons, pink tourmalines and garnets, each set in a movable bezel. When being worn, the bezels move freely on their framework, allowing the gems to shimmer. The back are signed “Sonia B” and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, .8 ct; amethyst, .8 ct; zircon, .7 ct; tourmaline, .5 ct; peridot, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.

A vintage pair of Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold earrings in a classic ribbed shrimp design. The earrings have posts and omega backs. Marked "T&C 750".

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" long; 3/8" maximum width

Weight: 14.9 grams

A classic pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks with knot ends by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks have substantial weight and are very comfortable to wear. Each connector is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16” diameter; smaller faces, 7/16” diameter.
• Weight: 21.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; original box.

An extremely heavy pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the face set with cabochon blue sapphires. Each circular face is fashioned with deeply-incised concentric rings centering the sapphires. The sapphires are of very fine quality, graded as medium-dark vivid blue (B6/7). The connectors are marked for 18K.

Ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 18.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .60 ct.

A handsome pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring an ornate pattern of woven gold “threads”. The faces are joined by chains. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece currently retails for $1925.

NOTE: The pendant is shown on a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1-1/8".
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

A fascinating pair of Irish sterling silver cufflinks, the faces formed from flattened spheres of carved rock crystal set in a silver band. The faces are joined with solid connectors to ball backs. The mountings are indistinctly marked with Irish hallmarks and also have a maker’s mark “RK”.

Origin: Ireland, 1971. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16” diameter.

Gorgeous pair of signed Mikimoto 18K yellow gold, pearl and diamond earrings. Each earring features a cluster of five 6.0—6.5 mm pearls, topped with a golden bow and sprinkled with prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearls have white body color with strong rosé overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are free of blemishes. The pearls are extra fine AAA—in other words, the absolute finest quality available anywhere in the world. The diamonds are of equally fine quality, rated at E color, VVS clarity. The backs have posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked with Mikimoto’s shell hallmark and “750” for 18K. The earrings are presented in their original Mikimoto hinged box, along with the original Mikimoto gift box.

The earrings are accompanied by an August 2006 written appraisal for $6,500 by Bailey, Banks & Biddle’s Mikimoto specialist appraiser.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/32” x 15/16”. Weight: 16.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

An elegant pair of past-colored multi-gem earrings set in 18K white gold by Asprey. From the "Daisy" collection, these dangling earrings feature a flower blossom of blue topaz, pink tourmaline, peridot and amethyst petals surrounding a center diamond. A cascading ribbon of matching gemstones descends from the flower. The stones are set so minimal metal shows from the front to add to the delicate appearance. The earrings are signed Asprey and are marked for 18K gold. They are presented in their original suede-lined leather box from Asprey. The original retail price in 2007 was $6500.

Dimensions: 1-5/8" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: blue topaz, 2.64 cts; pink tourmaline, 1.26 cts; amethyst, 1.08 cts; peridot, .88 ct; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 8.4 grams.

An 18K tri-color gold ring in the inconic "Double C" motif by Cartier, with a stack of yellow, white and rose gold bands terminating in yellow gold C's at the opening. The interior is marked with Cartier's signature, the serial number "F95043", and the design date "1997".

Origin: France, ca. 1997

Condition: excellent

Finger Size: 56 European/8 US (can be opened slightly)

Dimensions: band, 1/4" wide; C's, 5/16" wide

Weight: 5.2 grams

A handsome pair of cufflinks, worked in 19K yellow gold and featuring oval carved bloodstones enhanced with gold bead centers. The bloodstone has a nice deep green color with minute flecks of red. The gold setting behind the bloodstone is formed as a decorative floral design. The torpedo backs are connected by chains. The backs are stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for 19.2K gold.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1985. Condition: mint. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut rhodolite garnets. The gemstones have very good color with a strong purplish-red component that is accented nicely with the gold setting. The faces are connected with solid arched bridges to flat oval backs. The bridges are marked “18K” and one is signed “A Shoon” (?).

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 15.1 grams.

An 18K white gold ring in classic Van Cleef & Arpels style, set with round brilliant diamonds and round sapphires. The sapphires are intensely colored and have eye-clean clarity. The diamonds are E/F color and VVS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is signed and bears complete serial numbers, maker’s mark and French 18K guarantee stamps.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.00 ct; diamond, .24 ct.

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the doorknocker style. The faces are attached with solid curved connectors to flip backs in a Moorish-inspired openwork arabesque pattern. The curved connectors cause the cufflinks to lie very flat against the cuff (despite their weight) for a really elegant appearance. The doorknocker motif has been a recurring element in French jewelry since Cartier introduced it during the Art Deco era. The early 1970s saw a resurgence of the motif in pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and other important houses. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and bear an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; back faces, 1/2" x 1/2”. Weight: 18.7 grams.

A wonderful and very rare vintage 14K gold charm depicting a golf course under a glass cover. The clubhouse is at the top and the 18th hole is at the bottom. In between, there’s a sand trap and water hazard. There’s also a small ball bearing and just like the old-fashioned kids’ game, the idea is to gently manipulate the charm to get the ball to drop into the 18th hole cup while avoiding the sand trap and water hazard. The details are highlighted with colored enamels. But most charming of all is the engraved inscription on the reverse: “April 15, 1950 to April 15, 1975 25 years of playing a ‘round’ with you. Love Joe” The rim is marked with Dankner’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, 1975
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss or dings
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail).
• Weight: 18.4 grams

A lovely and weighty vintage 18K yellow gold oval locket, the front cover enhanced with a finely-worked net motif studded with nearly a half-carat small round brilliant cut diamonds in a résille (net) pattern. The diamonds offer a nice bit of glitter without being overwhelming. The back of the locket is stamped with the maker’s mark and English 18K hallmarks.

• Origin: England, 1974-99
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/16” excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat
• Weight: 15.1 grams.

A substantial pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the oval faces inset with a mother-of-pearl plaque centering a bezel-set round brilliant diamond of approximately .6 carat. The outer edges of the faces is finished in a border of small round diamonds. The hinges and either end of the back closures are finished with spessartite garnet cabochons. The diamonds are G color, I1 clarity.

Ca. 1980's. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/16" x 5/8". Weight: 18.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 cts; garnet, .70 ct.