Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

Rare, heavy and handsome 5-piece dress set by famed 20th century jewelry designer Cipullo. The double-sided cufflinks and studs are designed as highly-detail scallop shells set with cabochon natural rubies. The workmanship is superb, utilizing combinations of highly polished and matte surfaces to achieve realism. The rubies have very rich, even color. The overall style is similar to the shell designs of Verdura. The cufflink faces are joined by chains stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold. The findings of the studs are marked “18K”. Cipullo designed for many of the major jewelers of the last century—Tiffany, Cartier, etc.—but also designed independently. This set is part of his independent production and was originally purchased from his estate.

Origin: France, circa 1955. Condition: mint. Size: cufflink large faces, 11/16” x 9/16”; cufflink small faces, 9/16” x 15/32”; studs, 19/32” x 1/2". Weight: 30.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.54 carats.

A fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “mors de filet” or “snaffle bit” style. When the ends are flipped up into their closed position, the entire cufflink has the look of horse bit, especially with the raised diamond patterns on each end. The ends of the connectors are inset with round brilliant cut diamonds. The cufflinks are marked indistinctly with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13 x 15 mm (1/2 x 9/16 in). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around a central aquamarine set at the top of the dome. This design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has particularly nice warm tones—reds, pinks and dark oranges. The ring is unsigned, but is most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; one garnet toward the edge has a small flake visible with 10x magnification. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.64 carats.

Interesting vintage pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with detailed medallions depicting a Native American above black onyx plaques. The edges are finished in a classic ropetwist motif. The backs are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: very good, sharp detail; the toggle mechanism on one link is slightly bent, but does not affect functionality and is not visible when being worn. Size: 15/16" diameter. Weight: 20.25 grams.

A nice pair of 14K white gold modernist cufflinks, the Florentined surfaces star-set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires are accented with bright-cut engraving to add a little more sparkle to the matte finish of the gold. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” x 1-7/16”. Weight: 13.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .22 carat.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.

A very nice modernist silverplate over copper tie bar decorated with a design of coiled silver wire by studio jewelers Morley & Kim Crimi. This use of coiled wire is characteristic of the maker, who more frequently worked in copper than in silver. The back is marked “Morley-Crimi Hand Wrought”.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: good, some wear to lacquered finish near solder joints. Size: 2-3/4” x 11/16”.

Sterling silver and 14 karat gold bangle bracelet, set with three pearls and three rubies, each mounted in yellow gold. The gems are set equidistant from one another. The pearls are deeply lustrous and have a fine, faint pink tint. The pear-shaped rubies are also of good color and clarity. The pearls are 6mm in diameter; the rubies are approximately 4mm x 2mm. Ca. 1950's.

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup (étrier) cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the gold mesh sides and the unusual decorative shape of the crossbar. The cufflinks are marked with indistinct French master goldsmith’s marks. We have had an identical pair once before, in their original fitted Olga Tritt box. As a French émigré, Tritt manufactured her own line of jewelry and retailed high-quality French jewelry at her Park Avenue boutique.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21 x 24 mm (13/16 x 31/32 in). Weight: 17.9 gr.

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with 21 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example is a little darker than most examples, with lots of deeply saturated greens and golds. The sputnik design was made in rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, brooches and charms. Charms are among the less common forms, and this example is large enough to be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good, a 1/8” ding on one side between the gemstones. Dimensions: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.34 cts.

A very nice and heavy vintage Italian crown-shaped charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and set with citrines and pearls. The gold surfaces are enhanced with rope twist and beaded appliques and wire brushing. The citrines have particularly rich color trending away from yellow and more toward the deep amber shade of cognac. The pearls have nice luster. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks and French 18K gold import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 30.4 carats
• Weight: 24.0 grams

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs of this pair are accented in a severely geometric ridged pattern and their slight tapering prevents the appearance of being overly heavy. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A very nice and unusually heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob/charm set with amethysts. The gold surfaces are heavily worked in twisted wire and beaded decoration. The smaller amethysts are set in flower-shaped collets. Tested and guaranteed 18K (the jump ring is marked “750”).

• Origin: Italy, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 16.5 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.59 carats

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik†because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped “18Kâ€.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8†diameter. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.12 cts.

This delicate 14K yellow gold ring is set with a beautiful fire opal surrounded at compass points by old European cut diamonds. Fire opal is an uncommon stone, and it is very rare to find with play-of-color, the flash effect seen in traditional opals. This stone flashes with red, green and blue. The strong orange body color and fine clarity makes this a beautiful stone. The diamonds are quite good quality and are particularly bright against the orange fire opal. The shank is finished with milligrained edges on both sides. It is engraved “My love, forever 6-16-56”. It is stamped 14K and has an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: America, 1956. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6. Crown Size: 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 2.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: fire opal, .71 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A fine 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob bracelet charm or pendant set with five oval amethysts and four pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very attractive medium violet coloring with excellent clarity. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail).
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.55 carats.

A handsome pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces collet-set with rectangular tablet-cut pyrope-almandite garnets. Garnets such as these are typically very dark, but these stones have superb clarity and a lively deep orangy-red color. The fine engraving on the gold surface beneath the garnets shows through and imparts just a bit of sparkle. The toggle backs are fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.8 cts.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold stirrup cufflinks by Cartier. The design is similar to the "Trinity" design, but features just two rings with a wavy profile. This is the first time we've seen this particular pattern. The cufflinks are hinged at the back and snap shut at the top of the arch. Each cufflink is fully marked with serial numbers, the master goldsmith's mark and "Cartier Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter; 1/4" wide. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A wonderful vintage 14K yellow gold charm featuring a gem-set heart and key. The symbols are an acrostic puzzle for "Key to my heart." The heart is bordered with rubies and centered with seed pearls. The head of the key is set with a ruby, a sapphire, and an emerald. The background is enhanced with a satin finish and the disc's edges have a rope border. The back is marked for 14K gold.

• IrugubL America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" diameter
• Weight: 16.8 grams
• Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .75 ct; sapphire, .05 ct; emerald, .05 ct.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone autumnal colors. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A fun 18K yellow gold multi-gem H Stern “Sputnik” charm or pendant. Stern was the world’s leading dealer in colored gemstones and created this line of jewelry in the late 1950s to showcase the wonderful array of colored gemstones mined in Brazil, where the company was headquartered . Amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, garnets and green and pink tourmalines are collet-set above the gold sphere. The unusual design was considered very modernistic and dubbed “Sputnik” because of its perceived resemblance to the Soviet space satellite. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance, depending on the choice of gemstones used. Rings were the most common pieces in the line, but pendants and earrings are quite rare. The small size of this piece makes it ideal to be worn from a charm bracelet or as a pendant from a delicate chain. Marked “750” and signed with Stern’s hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.83 cts.

An extremely rare pair of 18K yellow gold and citrine cufflinks by the mid-century Brazilian jewelry designers Roberto and Haroldo Burle Marx. The Burle Marx brothers were particularly know for their use of colored gemstones fashioned in the "forma livre" (free-form) style. Haroldo invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style of the swivel mechanism suggests that the cufflinks are relatively early—probably around 1955. The gold sunburst setting of these cufflinks shows the design hand of Haroldo's older brother, Roberto. The citrines have a deep honey color accented beautiful by the shades created from the carving. The backs are fully marked with Burle Marx's hallmark and marks for 18K.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 12.8 gr. Estimated Gemstone Weight: 5.8 cts.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips, each featuring a cluster of round green tourmalines surrounded by a looping double border of gold. The tourmalines are have fine, saturated color, excellent cut and excellent clarity. The earrings are marked “18K”. The clips could easily be changed to posts.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 10.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.9 cts.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

Nice vintage sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with an appliqued anchor and chain. The toggle backs are hinged so that the faces lie flat against the cuff. The toggles are marked "Sterling" and also have a patent number for the toggle mechanism.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 15.25 grams.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold mesh stirrup-style cufflinks. A round diamond is set into each end of the closing mechanisms. The mesh is distinguished with diamond-shaped punched decoration that adds more texture to the design than is ordinarily seen. The diamonds are of nice quality, graded as I/J color, SI1 clarity. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and also bears an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8" wide. Weight: 20.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

An unusual 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik design by H Stern. Most examples of Sputnik jewelry are set with multi-colored gemstones, but occasionally a piece turns up with a single color—in the case amethyst. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the colored gemstones available from the Stern mines in Brazil. It later earned the nickname “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.51 cts.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are accented with sunburst engraving and are centered by round mixed-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires are very slightly greenish-blue in color, with dark tone and moderately strong saturation. They have excellent clarity. The toggles are marked “14K” and the toggles are marked “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: very good, light abrasions to the faces consistent with normal use. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 15.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .65 ct.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co., Paris. The square front faces and rectangular back faces are worked in a fine 3-over-1 basket weave pattern. The deep recesses of the pattern were only lightly polished to heighten the three-dimensional quality of the design. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are signed "Tiffany & Co./France/Or 18K" and have the jeweler's inventory numbers. They are also marked with full French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 13x13mm; back faces, 7.5x12.5mm. Weight: 14.3 gr.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold rectangular cufflinks, each face engraved in a starburst pattern emanating from a bezel-set round diamond. The diamonds are I/J color, VS2 clarity. The backs are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A very fine pair of platinum, diamond and sapphire earrings in a classic line pattern. The brilliant round-cut diamonds graduate from .10 ct at the top to .20 ct at the bottom. The diamonds are finely matched at H color, SI1 to SI2 clarity, with good to very good cut. The modified-brilliant round-cut sapphires have a beautiful limpid medium violet-blue color, excellent brilliance and eye-clean clarity. Each stone is set in a fully articulated mounting with a pierced gallery. The earrings have screw posts. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

• Dimensions: 1-9/16" long
• Weight: 8.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.4 carats; sapphire, 1.22 carats

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Weight: 6.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks, the faces with Florentined engraving and bands of round rubies at either end. The rubies have nicely saturated, strongly purplish-red coloring and eye-clean clarity. The back batons are finished with reeded engraving. The toggle connectors are marked with French 18K gold import marks.

• Circa 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: longer batons, 27/32"
Weight: 14.8 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .50 carat.

A nice, heavy pair of figural 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the faces designed as a golf bag with a selection of clubs. The cufflinks are finished with nice details such as the grooves on the irons and the textured surface of the bags. The faces are connected to an older style of toggle backs. The backs are stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 15/16” long. Weight: 9.2 gr.