Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan Revival style fob charm of elongated lantern form set with almandine garnet cabochons. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with beaded and ropetwist decoration. The jump ring is marked “Italy 750”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” long excluding jump ring. Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.1 cts.

A very large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm pendant set with oval brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surface is heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts have vivid, even coloring. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complements the amethysts. The jump ring is marked "Italy 18K." This is easily the largest and heaviest Venetian Etruscan piece we've had.

• Italy, ca. 1955.
• Excellent condition.
• 1 1/4" x 1" x 1 3/4" long (excluding jump ring).
• 28.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.52 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The use of a rose cut diamond and the A-Augis signature suggest the earlier part of that period. The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .05 carat.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“étrier”) style popularized by Cartier in the late Art Deco period. The cufflinks are formed as sharply arched band of open curb link chain. The hinged bar is hidden inside the cuff when the cufflinks are being worn. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Paris, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 29/32” x 3/4”. Weight: 11.9 grams.

A wonderful vintage 14K yellow gold charm featuring a gem-set heart and key. The symbols are an acrostic puzzle for "Key to my heart." The heart is bordered with rubies and centered with seed pearls. The head of the key is set with a ruby, a sapphire, and an emerald. The background is enhanced with a satin finish and the disc's edges have a rope border. The back is marked for 14K gold.

• IrugubL America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" diameter
• Weight: 16.8 grams
• Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .75 ct; sapphire, .05 ct; emerald, .05 ct.

A fine Italian Etruscan style 18K gold fob charm set with amethysts and pearls. The charm is shaped as a crown. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette motifs. The oval amethysts have nice medium color intensity and the pearls have good luster. The charm bears the maker’s mark of Figli di Vittoria Franconeri di Lidia (Florence).

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 7.99 carats
• Weight: 12.8 grams

A classic mid-century silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Libra (“la Balance”). A detailed scale appears over a stippled background and is accompanied by the classic iconographical symbol for balance. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” diameter excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 3.8 grams

A very nice and heavy vintage Italian crown-shaped charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and set with citrines and pearls. The gold surfaces are enhanced with rope twist and beaded appliques and wire brushing. The citrines have particularly rich color trending away from yellow and more toward the deep amber shade of cognac. The pearls have nice luster. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks and French 18K gold import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 30.4 carats
• Weight: 24.0 grams

A handsome pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring a textured finish accented with twisted rope borders. Each face is centered with a strongly-colored blue sapphire. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950.

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: 5/8" diameter.

Weight: 11.2 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .52 carat.

Open the ornately engraved box to reveal a miniature record play complete with an album that turn and a moveable needle arm. The controls are represented by small turquoise and coral cabochons. The music box plays “Let Me Call You Sweetheart,” a song recorded by everyone from Patti Page to Bing Crosby to Ethel Merman, to Micky and Minnie Mouse. The case is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, music box in working condition
• Dimensions: 1” x 27/32” x 1/2"
• Weight: 22.1 grams

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone autumnal colors. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces bezel-set with round blue sapphires. The faces are slightly concave and are highlighted with a brushed Florentine finish. The connectors are marked "750" for 18K.

• Circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" x 1/2"
• Weight: 10.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .24 carat

For anniversary jewelry, there's nothing more romantic than this rare 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love token (“medaille d’amour”) ring with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a single-cut diamond, and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. Augis rings are far rarer than pendants and charms.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The ring is signed “A. Augis,” and is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide.
• Weight: 5.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; synthetic ruby, .12 carat.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated colors in the stones. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.86 cts.

A rare and outstanding six-piece dress set in 14K yellow gold set with cat’s eye chrysoberyls by Larter for A. Sulka & Co. The gemstones are very dramatic and exhibit superior chatoyancy—the cat’s eye effect displayed when the stones are moved in light. Cat’s eye comes in a variety of colors, but the choice of this dark greenish-grayish black with the white eye is perfect for dress wear. The set comprises a pair of double-faced cufflinks and four shirt studs. Each piece is marked with Larter’s 14K stamp. The set is presented in its original fitted case from A. Sulka & Co., one of the most exclusive men’s clothing boutiques of the 20th century. The box can be dated between 1946 and 1973, the only years in which Sulka had a location in Palm Beach.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: cufflink faces, 1/2” diameter; stud faces, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 53.48 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; excellent box.

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example has darker, warmer shades with an almost autumnal tone. The shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil ca 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 15/16” diameter. Finger Size: 8-3/4”. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 cts.

A superb Ventian Etruscan pendant or charm set with citrine, smoky quartz, green and green tourmaline, aquamarine, blue topaz, hessonite garnet, and almandine garnet. These large pendants come in many different shapes, but this is the first time we've seen one in the shape of a six-pointed star (Star of David.) The gemstones are nicely colored and all the gold surfaces are enhanced with intricate ropetwist and beaded decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 3.0 cts; smoky quartz, 3.0 cts; tourmaline, 1.6 cts; aquamarine, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

An attractive pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces bezel-set with oval cabochons of black star sapphire. The stones have very good asterism with bright, fully-formed stars and strong movement across the stones. The color is more attractive silvery-brown than some black star sapphires. The faces have engraved decoration at the corners. The toggle backs are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 25/32" x 9/32". Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.56 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik†because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped “18Kâ€.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8†diameter. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.12 cts.

A handsome pair of modernist cufflinks worked as concave silver discs centering collet-set amber cabochons with applied beads to the setting. The amber has a beautiful honey color and an abundance of the highly-prized natural discoid inclusions called “sun spangles”. These are often created by enhancements, but the spangles in this amber are naturally occurring. The toggles are marked “830”.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950s. Condition: excellent, nice patina. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

An extremely rare pair of 18K yellow gold and citrine cufflinks by the mid-century Brazilian jewelry designers Roberto and Haroldo Burle Marx. The Burle Marx brothers were particularly know for their use of colored gemstones fashioned in the "forma livre" (free-form) style. Haroldo invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style of the swivel mechanism suggests that the cufflinks are relatively early—probably around 1955. The gold sunburst setting of these cufflinks shows the design hand of Haroldo's older brother, Roberto. The citrines have a deep honey color accented beautiful by the shades created from the carving. The backs are fully marked with Burle Marx's hallmark and marks for 18K.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 12.8 gr. Estimated Gemstone Weight: 5.8 cts.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones, particularly greens and purples. The earrings are marked with Stern's hallmark and also "750" for 18K gold. The clips are original, but posts could be added without affecting the original clips.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.02 carats
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

French gold and sapphire stirrup cufflinks never go out of style. The strirrup (étrier) design was popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era and continues to one of the most stylish elements in a gentleman’s jewelry wardrobe. The sides are worked in the classic curb link chain style and the hinged closures are capped with bright blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks and un unidentified maker’s mark (“Ste DC”).

• Origin: France, ca 1955.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8 x 11/16”.
• Weight: 15.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .56 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams

An extremely heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks made by Louis Tamis & Sons and retailed by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are simply decorated with parallel ribbed surfaces. The faces are joined by solid hinged connectors. The cufflinks are very heavy and have a classic, masculine appeal. Tamis was one of New York’s most important goldsmiths and supplied goods to Tiffany, Cartier and Verdura among others. Each cufflink is marked “14K” and has Tamis’ maker’s mark and Tiffany’s retailer mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold dome earrings studded with bezel-set tourmaline, topaz, garnet, citrine and aquamarine. This style was popularized by H Stern in the 1950’s and was used to show off the variety of gemstones available from the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design was eventually called “Sputnik”. The style was mostly used for rings, but also for pendants, charms and earrings. Earrings are quite uncommon. The earrings retain the original post-and-clip backs, but the posts could be removed if desired. The clips are marked “MN 750”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.36 cts.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's mines in Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This bracelet has strong, saturated colors in autumnal hues. This design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets; the bracelet is by far the most difficult piece to find. This bracelet is marked for 18K and is also marked with one of Stern's early hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: all excellent except one dome that has a ding around one of the stones (not particularly visible unless you're really looking for it). Dimensions: 27/32" wide; 7-1/2" long. Weight: 23.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.34 carats.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold stirrup cufflinks by Cartier. The design is similar to the "Trinity" design, but features just two rings with a wavy profile. This is the first time we've seen this particular pattern. The cufflinks are hinged at the back and snap shut at the top of the arch. Each cufflink is fully marked with serial numbers, the master goldsmith's mark and "Cartier Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter; 1/4" wide. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold mesh stirrup-style cufflinks. A round diamond is set into each end of the closing mechanisms. The mesh is distinguished with diamond-shaped punched decoration that adds more texture to the design than is ordinarily seen. The diamonds are of nice quality, graded as I/J color, SI1 clarity. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and also bears an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8" wide. Weight: 20.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A very nice and unusually heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob/charm set with amethysts. The gold surfaces are heavily worked in twisted wire and beaded decoration. The smaller amethysts are set in flower-shaped collets. Tested and guaranteed 18K (the jump ring is marked “750”).

• Origin: Italy, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 16.5 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.59 carats

A very pretty mid-century wedding band, pierced in an intricate pattern of chapel bells and flowers. The band has nice width and the detail is very crisp. The interior is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/32" wide
• Finger Size: 7-1/2
• Weight: 4.1 grams

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. Each rectangular face is bead-set at one end with a round brilliant cut blue sapphire. Engraved lines emanate from the gemstones in a sunburst pattern. The sapphires are a medium dark strongly saturated blue in color and contrast nicely with the bright gold. The backs are marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 23/32” x 1/2”. Weight: 17.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .40 carat.

NOTE: We are offering a matching tie bar as Item #1001380.