Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A very fine Art Nouveau pendant formed from an exceptionally large natural freshwater pearl mounted in platinum and gold and set with diamonds. The floral platinum mounting features a .15 carat old European diamond and nine single-cut diamonds. The bail is shaped as a clover and is set with three additional diamonds. The pearl has fine luster with rose and green orient. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 14K gold. The contemporary chain is 14K white gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-9/16" x 1/2"; chain, 16"
• Weight: 5.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .45 carat

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

An elegant Edwardian bracelet comprising rectangular filigree plaques of 14K gold centering collet-set oval amethysts. The filigree is amazingly detailed. The amethysts have rich, saturated color and no zoning. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-5/16” long, 1/2" wide
• Weight: 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 16.02 carats

A pretty Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold locket by Elias Rees & Son, depicting a young woman surrounded by a bower of flowers. The back cover bears a period monogram, nicely worked in ornate Art Nouveau script. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers on both sides and is hallmarked by Rees.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 5.8 gr.

A very fine pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks, the double faces set with mother-of-pearl plaques centered with cabochon emeralds. The faces faces are bordered with platinum rims engraved in a reeded design. The emeralds are very nice quality, with vivid pure green color and good clarity that contrasts nicely with the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl. The use of emeralds in cufflinks is relatively uncommon. The connectors are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 7.3 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .80 carat.

An elegant pair of Edwardian sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with purple guilloche enamel accented with a border of opaque white enamel. The backs are stamped "Sterling."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 23/32" x 7/16" (18 x 11 mm)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

A sweet good luck charm in the form of a 14K gold wishbone entwined with a branch of bright blue enameled forget-me-nots. In Victorian flower language, forget-me-nots represented remembrance. Combined with the wishbone, a piece such of this might have been given as a farewell gift. Stamped with the maker's mark for Winthrop Manufacturing Co (Attleboro, MA).

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: perfect enamel; original pinstem and clasp were removed and replaced with a hidden bail by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1/2".
• Weight:2.7 grams.

An Edwardian gilt silver ("vermeil") locket enhanced with bright turquoise blue guilloche enamel. The starburst design of the champleve is enhanced with gilt accents in the enamel. The locket retains the original insert frames on both sides. Stamped with English hallmarks; the city mark is obscured, so we can't be certain of the exact date letter, but we believe it to be 1917.

• England, ca 1917
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Weight: 13.0 grams

A superb pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the octagonal faces worked in platinum over gold. Each face features sugarloaf cabochon sapphire of fine, vividly saturated blue. Each cabochon is flanked by four rectangular sapphires flush-mounted with milgrained borders. The faces are joined with chain connectors. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.99 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.16 cts.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A lovely French garland-style pendant/brooch in platinum and set with diamonds. The garland style, popularized by Cartier, heavily borrowed Louis XVI motifs such as bows, ribbons and laurel wreaths—all seen in this example. When worked in platinum, the designs take on a delicate appearance and allow the diamonds to shine. The center old European cut diamond, graded as J/SI1, weighs .48 carat. The diamond hanging from an articulated millegrained knife-edge mounting has the same grading and weighs .35 carat. The smaller diamonds are a mix of antique cushion, rose and Swiss cuts. This piece has two small loops at the top of the back so it can be worn from a fine platinum chain. When worn as a pendant, the 18K gold brooch fitting can be unscrewed and removed entirely. Convertible fittings such as this were difficult to make and always signaled a piece of high quality. The hallmarks allow the pendant/brooch to be definitively dated prior to 1912.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-9/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.15 carats.

A fascinating pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with square rock crystals. The crystals have concave circles in the center and the edges are finished with an oxidized surface that gives the impression of hematite. The clear circles reveal quirky, almost cartoon-like portraits of dogs that have very rigid demeanors like those often seen in 19th century portraits of people. These are not to be confused with reverse-carved Essex crystals. These cufflinks are made in an entirely different way and we’ve never seen a pair like them. The square faces are linked with chains to gold baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one dog is turned slightly sideways, but it appears to have always been that way. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.9 grams.

A classic pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces topped with platinum. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are decorated with engine-turned engraving. The solid connectors are marked “PL ON 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 4.0 gr.