Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

Superb and very rare pair of French Art Deco platinum double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from rock crystal and set with diamonds. The rock crystal is carved into a faceted open-centered square design with canted corners, the opposite sides bisected by platinum bands set with baguette diamonds. The diamonds are of exceptionally good quality with E color and VVS2 to IF clarity. The faces are joined by chain connectors with a spring ring to ease in putting them through a cuff. The cufflinks are fully marked with French hallmarks for platinum and have an illegible maker's mark and an illegible signature (only "France" is visible).

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: very good. Size: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .80 ct.

A handsome pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces worked in platinum centering sugarloaf cabochons of moonstone surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The moonstones have matte finish more often used with rock crystal, and the underlying, bright, billowy adularescence creates a very attractive effect. At some point, 18K white gold backs and connecting chains were added. Though there are no maker's marks to substantiate it, the overall quality of design and execution suggests an important maker such as Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: faces, excellent; replaced connecting chains and backs. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 5.8 cts; diamond, .60 cts.

A stunning early Art Deco platinum bracelet set with diamonds and emeralds. The bracelet comprises seven rectangular plaques, each centered with an old European cut diamond. The plaques are hand-pierced in an ornate foliate pattern accented with a total of 84 smaller old European and single cut diamonds and 70 calibre-cut natural emeralds. The primary diamonds (two .44ct; two .46ct; two .55ct; and one .61ct) are very well matched and are graded G/SI1. Each plaque is slightly arched to accommodate the curve of the wrist. The clasp has a hidden safety catch and is stamped with French platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1925.

Condition: excellent, all original, normal wear to emerald surfaces consistent with age.

Size: 11/32” wide; 6-3/4” long.

Weight: 27.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 6.22 cts; emerald, 1.47 cts.

A stunning Art Deco platinum bracelet, the links arranged in a zigzag pattern of bead-set round diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The overall design has the beautifully graphic, geometric appeal of the best French Art Deco jewels. The diamonds average VS clarity and G/H color. The rubies are similar quality, with medium dark, vivid red color (R6/6) and eye-clean clarity. The bracelet is masterfully constructed so it lies flat against the wrist and the links are individually hinged to provide movement that accents the glittery jewels. The bracelet is completed with its original hidden box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold (for the clasp tongue and spring mechanism) and platinum (remainder of the bracelet) marks and with a partially worn master goldsmith’s mark. The bracelet was acquired from the collection of a Parisian lady who owned many pieces of superb quality from major houses such as Cartier, Perrin, and Boucheron.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 7/16†wide; 7-3/8†long. Weight: 45.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 14.91 cts; diamond, 4.20 cts.

High quality 18 karat yellow gold bar bin featuring an elongated center of pierced and milligrained platinum set with an assymetrical arrangement of 15 rose-cut diamonds around a natural pearl. The back retains its original trombone catch and the pinstem is stamped with the French 18 karat gold hallmark.

Origin: France, circa 1930s. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/4" x 7/16". Approximate Weight: .35 carats.

Fabulous Art Deco 18K yellow gold box, the lid decorated with opaque red and black champlevé enamels depicting a roulette wheel. A black enamel linear pattern and fan motifs at the corners complete the very Deco design. The can be used to hold either cash or mother of pearl gambling counters. For those who are curious, the case perfectly fits $2,500 in $100 bills folded in half. The superb workmanship shows, not only in the enameling, but in the solid construction techniques such as attaching the lid with a full piano hinge for extra security. The inner lip and thumbpiece are hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” mark in a hexagonal reserve used on French enameled 18K gold. There is also an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no monogram, no enamel damage, a pinpoint ding on the bottom side of the case. Size: 3-7/16” x 2-13/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 142.5 grams (4.582 troy ounces).

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the "mors de filet" or "snaffle" design originally created for Hermès by Gaetan de Percin. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a diamond-cut design. De Percin's design was very popular and served as the basis for a number of closely related designs. These cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks, an unidentified goldsmith’s mark and the notation for "breveté", indicating that the design was patented.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 5/8 x 11/32". Weight: 12.7 gr.

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A classic Art Deco 18K white gold Russian braid chain necklace with opal cabochons and faceted onyx beads sandwiched together into egg-shaped stations along the length. The opals have nice play-of-color with a preponderance of blues and greens. Most station chain necklaces are quite long, but the shorter length of this example makes for a very wearable, delicate look. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: very good, two opals have small flakes on the pointed end visible upon very close inspection
• Dimensions: chain length, 17-1/4”; stations, 3/16” diameter
• Weight: 2.8 grams

A nice pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces made from lapidary-cut lapis lazuli simply set in 18K yellow gold. The lapis has nice coloring with small flecks of gold. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: good; all original; both torpedoes have some small dings that are not particularly distracting. Size: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams.

A beautiful pair of French 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the round faces decorated with deep green guilloche enamel bordered in opaque white champleve enamel. The gold surfaces under the translucent enamel are decorated with engine-turned engraving in a pattern of concentric circles studded with small dots in a starburst or snowflake arrangement. The faces are joined with the original chain connectors. The backs are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very slight surface wear to enamel visible under 10x magnification. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.0 grams.

A handsome pair of reversible heavy 18K yellow gold flip-up cufflinks. One side of each end is finished smooth, while the reverse side is engraved in a zigzag pattern. The flip-up style was popularized by Cartier in the 1930s and continued to be popular in France through the mid-century. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” stamp for 18K gold and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 11.6 grams.

A very fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face decorated with opaque black and red champlevé enamel. The severity of the chevron design contrasts nicely with slightly bowed sides of the faces and provides a compelling Art Deco look. The connectors are stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips to enamel. Dimensions: 5/8 x 7/16 in. Weight: 7.3 grams.

An elegant pair of Art Deco 18K gold cufflinks decorated with geometric engraving and champleve enamels in opaque red and black. Each cufflink is hallmarked for 18K gold and has the master’s goldsmith’s mark (illegible).

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter.
• Weight: 8.1 grams

A fine pair of French 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated with champleve and en plein opaque red and black enamels. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1925
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: faces, 19/32" x 13/32"

A very fine and heavy pair of French 18K gold cufflinks in the Aesthetic taste. The faces are hand-pierced and patinated in a bronze-brown shade with darker highlights in the recesses. The gold surfaces are finished with a matte texture that accents the deep coloring. The center of each face is set with a blue sapphire cabochon of fine color. The faces are joined by chains. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimenions: larger faces, 13/16” x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 8.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct.

A very fine and heavy pair of vintage cufflinks featuring square faces worked in 18K yellow gold basketweave pattern with white gold accents. The faces are bordered with channel-set square cut sapphires. The stones are fine quality and are graded at medium dark, vivid blue in color, very good cut, and eye-clean clarity. The backs are hinged for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff and are designed in a basketweave pattern matching the fronts. The connectors are marked with French 18K gold export hallmarks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 19/32”. Weight: 13.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.34 carats.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold stirrups in the “stirrup” style popularized by Cartier. The surfaces are decorated with engraved parallel lines. This type of decoration, combined with the unusually angular shape, gives this pair of cufflinks a very modernist feel. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" deep; 1/4" wide. Weight: 8.3 gr.