Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (502)

A phenomenal and very heavy Art Deco dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three matching shirt studs. The faces have a slightly rounded triangular outline and are trisected by raised bands of channel-set square step-cut blue sapphires. The points where the sapphire bands meet are collet-set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The visual effect is reminiscent of airplane propellers. The natural sapphires have medium-dark, vividly saturated, slightly violetish-blue color. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS clarity. The platinum surfaces have a slightly matte finish. Each face is stamped "10% Irid/90% Plat". The spring mechanism on the backs of the studs are 14K white gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 5/8" x 5/8"; studs, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 42.89 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .90 carat; sapphire, 2.75 carats.

A very handsome 14K yellow dress set comprising cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are formed as slightly arched rectangular faces with canted corners and ropetwist borders. Each face is centered by an oval blue star sapphire, and the cufflinks also feature a pair of gypsy-set diamonds on each side of the star sapphire. The faces have a matte Russian finish that contrasts handsomely with the highly polished rope borders. The star sapphires have fine color, with a slight violet tinge to the blue. The stars are sharp and have straight, fully extended rays. The single-cut diamonds are estimated at J color and I1 clarity. The cufflinks are entirely handcrafted and appear to have been custom-made. The findings are marked 14K and the faces test 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 13/16” x 1”; studs, 9/16” x 1/2". Weight: 38.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; star sapphire, 10.3 carats.

A phenomenal dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with green cat's-eye tourmalines. The settings are designed in a thistle pattern similar to Jean Schlumberger's designs for Tiffany. All the details are entirely hand-engraved and each piece looks as good from the side or back as it does from the front. The fine tourmalines have strongly bluish-green color, well-placed bright chatoyancy (cat's-eye effect), and very good symmetry and polish. Each cufflink is illegibly signed. The mechanical portion of the shirt studs are marked "14K", but all the other parts of the settings are tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflink front faces, 5/8" x 7/16"; cufflink back faces, 7/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 22.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 20.87 cts.

A magnificent set of cufflinks the five shirt studs worked in 18K yellow and white gold set with diamonds. The face of each cufflink and stud is formed as a white gold star surrounded by a foliate and beaded yellow gold border. The stars are set with brilliant round-cut diamonds of extremely fine quality, estimated at F color, VSI clarity. The outer gold edges have fine saw-pierced galleries. The backs of the cufflinks have a toggle closure and the studs have double-folding flanges. This set is most unusual in that it includes five shirt studs. The quality of workmanship is at a level of the most exclusive makers. The presence of five studs indicates that the set was probably a custom order, since most formal shirts have only three or four holes for studs. The advantage of the fifth stud, of course, is that if you lose one of the others you have a ready replacement! The yellow gold is intensely yellow—a shade not usually achieved below 20K. Each piece is marked “750” for 18K gold and is signed “DIF”.

Origin: probably European, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 25.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.25 carats.

A heavy, handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with rubies by David Webb. The box-shaped front faces are each set with nine round brilliant-cut rubies. The gemstones have vivid pure red coloring and are unheated. The exposed areas of gold are finished with a hammered motif. The smaller, hinged back faces are hammered and are without gemstones. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K" and have French import marks.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: very good, all original; two rubies have small surface nicks visible upon very close examination at 10x magnification. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 23.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.64 cts.

An elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond 5-piece dress set from the “Vannerie” collection by Tiffany & Co. The double-faced cufflinks and studs are worked in an open basketweave pattern into a slightly domed shape. The larger cufflinks faces and the studs are centered with bezel-set brilliant round diamonds (F/VVS2). Each piece in the set if fully marked by Tiffany. The cufflinks are marked “1995” and the studs “1996.” This design is no longer in production. The set is presented in its original dark blue fitted Tiffany box and with the original light blue paperboard outer box.

• Origin: America, 1995/96
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: large cufflink faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; studs, 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 26.75 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .60 carat

A very fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with rubies by Carrington for Tiffany & Co. The square faces feature rounded gold ridges typical of “tank” jewelry from around 1935, flanked by rows of square cut rubies. The rubies are unheated and have inclusions typical of stones from the Mogok region of Burma. The rubies are beautifully matched and have strong red coloring with slight purplish overtones. The faces are joined by bar connectors. Each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K gold mark, and each of the connectors is stamped Tiffany & Co. Much of Tiffany’s better-quality jewelry was manufactured by the great Newark jewelers such as Carrington. Sometimes, pieces are marked only by Tiffany, and other times they are marked by Tiffany and the manufacturer.

• Origin: America, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2” x 1/2"
• Weight: 17.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.32 carats

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold knot-style cufflinks set with blue sapphires by Boucheron. The four-lobed faces are formed by a rope-motif tied in an ornate knot. Each lobe features a bright blue round sapphire. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and medium blue color. The faces are joined by solid connectors to toggle backs decorated in a complementary twisted rope design. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and has appropriate serial numbers, 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.

A wonderful pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, each spherical end cast in a sort of alligator hide pattern studded with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have fine coloring and brilliance, as would be expected of Van Cleef. One cufflink is fully marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/12V12-4/18K" and the other is marked "18K."

• Origin: America (NY), ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" diameter; smaller faces, 3/8" diameter.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .51 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A classically elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and blue sapphire cufflinks in a highly-functional “wrap-around” style. The cufflinks comprise a doubled length of Russian braid chain that passes through the cuff hole and attaches on the other side to the solid clasp. The chains are comfortable to wear, flexing easily, but staying firmly closed from the tension of the cuff fabric. The clasps are set at either end with a rich blue sapphire cabochon. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks, the master goldsmith’s mark and a serial number, and is signed “Boucheron.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: clasp length 15/16”; chain diameter, 3mm.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.68 carats.
• Weight: 14.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A substantial pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the oval faces inset with a mother-of-pearl plaque centering a bezel-set round brilliant diamond of approximately .6 carat. The outer edges of the faces is finished in a border of small round diamonds. The hinges and either end of the back closures are finished with spessartite garnet cabochons. The diamonds are G color, I1 clarity.

Ca. 1980's. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/16" x 5/8". Weight: 18.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 cts; garnet, .70 ct.

An extraordinary pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, the faces featuring flowers bearing a secret message. In Victorian symbology, the daisy represented "innocence" or "purity", whereas the red poppy meant "pleasure". Taken together, the choice of flowers in these cufflinks was certainly intended to convey an erotic sentiment. The faces are beautifully hand-pierced and highlighted with translucent enamels in delicate shades of green, rosy red and whitish-yellow. The exposed areas of gold are worked in the semi-matte Russian finish popular in better quality Art Nouveau jewels. Each face is marked with the "tete d'aigle" for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; a couple of extremely minor enamel flakes under magnification. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A stunning Art Deco gentleman’s dress set comprising a pair of double-faced platinum cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round platinum faces are enhanced with ridged decoration and feature round old European-cut diamonds. The faces are attached with removable connectors for ease in putting them through cuff holes. The backs are marked with Swiss platinum hallmarks and Imperial Austrian import marks. Both marks are no longer in use, and by cross-referencing the marks, we can determine that the cufflinks date to 1914-21.

The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.

Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.

Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Kieselstein-Cord to represent ancient Greek coins. The faces are decorated with images of horses, the animal sacred to the goddess Pallas Athena, and images similar to this often appear on the obverse of ancient coins minted in Athens. The surfaces and edges of the face a distressed and patinated to resemble truly ancient coins. Even the closing mechanism is designed in a way to suggest great age. Kiselstein-Cord made a small line of jewelry inspired by ancient Greek coins in the late 1980s, but the designs are very difficult to find now. Each cufflink is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Origin: Germany, 1988. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 25/32" x 21/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold stirrup cufflinks by Cartier. The design is similar to the "Trinity" design, but features just two rings with a wavy profile. This is the first time we've seen this particular pattern. The cufflinks are hinged at the back and snap shut at the top of the arch. Each cufflink is fully marked with serial numbers, the master goldsmith's mark and "Cartier Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter; 1/4" wide. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

A handsome pair of cufflinks and three matching shirt studs in 18K yellow gold set with blue sapphires. The faces are fashioned as knots, the individual gold “threads” textured in a rope-twist motif for added interest. Each knot is centered with a brilliant round-cut blue sapphire. The sapphires have nice color saturation, and the gold is quite heavy. Each cufflink is marked “18K”. The faces of the shirt studs are also 18K, but the spring mechanism on the back is 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink large faces, 5/8” diameter; 7/16” diameter. Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .82 carat.

A very fine pair of double-sided knot cufflinks worked in platinum and set with diamonds and sapphires. The diamonds are graded as G color, VS1 clarity. The sapphires are of equal quality, with medium-dark vivid blue color and eye-clean clarity. All stones are well-cut with good proportions. The faces are attached with removable connectors. Each face is stamped with an unidentified European hallmark.

Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 17.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 carat; sapphire, .57 carat.