Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (502)

A fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “horsebit” (“mors de filet”) style. The visible surfaces are covered in rich dark green translucent enamel overlaid with a yellow gold ropetwist motif. When being worn, only the enameled discs are visible. Each cufflink is marked “France/18K”.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, one cufflink has a superficial enamel nick visible only under 10x magnification. Weight: 13.5 grams.

A handsome pair of cufflinks, worked in 19K yellow gold and featuring oval carved bloodstones enhanced with gold bead centers. The bloodstone has a nice deep green color with minute flecks of red. The gold setting behind the bloodstone is formed as a decorative floral design. The torpedo backs are connected by chains. The backs are stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for 19.2K gold.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1985. Condition: mint. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

Very handsome 18K yellow gold and steel cable cufflinks by one of the most important high-end contemporary jewelry designers, Philippe Charriol. Charriol rose to prominence working for Cartier before starting his own boutique in 1983. The “Celtic” line was Charriol’s first design, and the he updates it every few years. These cufflinks are a newer variation of the original “Celtic” design (the front faces of the original design had two steel cables separated by a gold bar, while this pair has one cable flanked on either side by a gold bar). The toggle backs allow the cufflinks to be inserted and worn comfortably. The connectors are stamped with Charriol’s hallmark and are marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Switzerland, ca 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 3/4" x 5/16”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K white gold cufflinks, each face formed from a plaque of lapis surrounded by smaller lapis batons. The canted corners are set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, as are the centers of the faces. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and SI1 clarity. The lapis is finely colored with only a minimal amount of the mica inclusions. The toggle backs are marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: probably Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 1/2". Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic diamond-shaped design completed with black onyx. The toggle backs are stamed "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" x 11/16". Weight; 10.0 gr.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the snaffle bit (“mors de filet”) or flip-up style modeled on a horse bit. The circular faces are simply enhanced with tubular concentric rings. The design is elegant, but casual enough to wear with a sport coat or event jeans. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with diamonds and sapphires fromthe Coera Collection by Lunia. The rectangular faces are divided assymetrically into a matte-finished hammered yellow gold section studded with calibre cut sapphires, and a white gold section pave-set with round diamonds. The gemstones are of fine quality (sapphires medium-dark blue and diamonds I/VS1). The faces are connected by chains to baton backs finished in the matte hammered style. The backs of the faces are marked "18K" and are signed Coera.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 12.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, .5 carat

A classic pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks with knot ends by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks have substantial weight and are very comfortable to wear. Each connector is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16” diameter; smaller faces, 7/16” diameter.
• Weight: 21.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; original box.

A handsome pair of cufflinks, the faces featuring ancient silver Macedonian coins dating from the reign of Alexander the Great (336-323 B.C.). The obverse of the coins depicts Herakles (Hercules) wearing the skin of the Nemean lion. The reverse depicts a bow, quiver and club, and is inscribed with Alexander’s name. The coins are set in 14K yellow gold frames with ropetwist borders. The faces are connected by gold chains to the gold bar backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Coins, Macedonia, 336-323 B.C.; Settings, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 7.2 gr.

A fine pair of lapis lazuli cufflinks mounted in 18K yellow gold. The front faces are panel-cut lapis spheres and the backs are round lapis tablets set in twisted rope borders. The lapis is fine quality with just a tiny smattering of glittery pyrite. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca 1970

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: front faces, 7/16" diameter

Weight: 8.4 grams

An interesting pair of Modernist free form tumbled spotted moss agate stones in sinuous 14K yellow gold cage settings with bean backs. The agates have interesting spotted markings in shades of gray and brown as well as surface-reaching matrix in a cream color. The settings are clearly hand-crafted and designed specifically for the stones. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Dimensions: faces, 11/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 15.0 gr.

A magnificent set of cufflinks the five shirt studs worked in 18K yellow and white gold set with diamonds. The face of each cufflink and stud is formed as a white gold star surrounded by a foliate and beaded yellow gold border. The stars are set with brilliant round-cut diamonds of extremely fine quality, estimated at F color, VSI clarity. The outer gold edges have fine saw-pierced galleries. The backs of the cufflinks have a toggle closure and the studs have double-folding flanges. This set is most unusual in that it includes five shirt studs. The quality of workmanship is at a level of the most exclusive makers. The presence of five studs indicates that the set was probably a custom order, since most formal shirts have only three or four holes for studs. The advantage of the fifth stud, of course, is that if you lose one of the others you have a ready replacement! The yellow gold is intensely yellow—a shade not usually achieved below 20K. Each piece is marked “750” for 18K gold and is signed “DIF”.

Origin: probably European, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 25.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.25 carats.

A terrific pair of Art Deco style 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The eight-sided front faces are decorated with white gold chevrons in a slightly matte finish that contrast beautifully with the surrounding yellow gold. The back faces are yellow gold ovals with tapered ends. The connectors are marked with Italian hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A very interesting pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks were made in France and were available only in Tiffany’s Paris boutique. Each face is formed as a square knot instead of the more traditional knots often seen in cufflinks. The solid connectors are marked with French 18K hallmarks and also “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 15.0 grams.

A handsome pair f 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces enhanced with an engraved waffle pattern and featuring a line of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have strong blue coloring and eye-clean clarity. The faces are connected to hinged backs decorated in a matching waffle pattern. The bridges are fully stamped with French master goldsmith’s marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 12 x 20 mm (1/2 x 13/16 in). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 12.9 gr.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and four shirt studs in a slightly squared knot design. The set is well-made and has substantial weight. Each piece is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 9/16" diameter; studs, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 19.2 grams.