Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “mors de filet” or “snaffle bit” style. When the ends are flipped up into their closed position, the entire cufflink has the look of horse bit, especially with the raised diamond patterns on each end. The ends of the connectors are inset with round brilliant cut diamonds. The cufflinks are marked indistinctly with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13 x 15 mm (1/2 x 9/16 in). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A vintage pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. The faces are engraved in a geometric rayed pattern for a little extra sparkle. The faces are joined by bar connectors, one of which is marked “Tiffany & Co.” Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat
• Weight: 14.1 grams

An elegant pair of Art Deco 18K gold cufflinks decorated with geometric engraving and champleve enamels in opaque red and black. Each cufflink is hallmarked for 18K gold and has the master’s goldsmith’s mark (illegible).

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter.
• Weight: 8.1 grams

A very handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a strongly linear, architectural style. The faces are set at one end with iolites cut as sugarloaf cabochons and at the other with bluish-violet chalcedonies cut as triangular cabochons. The use of transparent, intense bluish-violet iolites with softer translucent chalcedonies in the same color family is an inspired choice and really sets these cufflinks apart. The faces are connected by solid bridges to hinged backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 1/2". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: iolite, .38 carat; chalcedony 1.14 carats.

A fine pair of French 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated with champleve and en plein opaque red and black enamels. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1925
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: faces, 19/32" x 13/32"

A very fine pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the front faces comprising carved natural green jadeite discs edged in black enamel. The jade plaques, with bright grass green coloring with moderate mottling and translucency, are carved in a traditional stylized floral motif. The faces are connected to yellow gold backs engraved with concentric rings in a target pattern. The front and back faces are constructed with identical structural elements, so they are entirely original. The faces are joined with clips so a face can be removed when fitting into a cuff hole. The faces and connectors are stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; no cracks to jadeite; a couple of minute fleabites to the enamel on one face; gold faces have light surface scratching consistent with age.
• Dimensions: front faces, 11/16” diameter; back faces, 5/8” diameter.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A handsome pair of French stirrup-form 18K gold cufflinks formed as interlocking ropetwist links. The cufflinks open at the pointed end and are very easy to put on and remove. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark (“RC” with a bird).

• Origin: France, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 27/32”
• Weight: 13.3 grams(/li>

An outstanding pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the simple oval faces set alternately with round rubies and old European cut diamonds. The faces are joined by unusual arched connectors that give the cufflinks a nice, comfortable spread to fit the wrist. The cufflinks may be worn with either the diamond or the ruby sides showing outward. The gemstones are of fine quality. The diamonds are graded as G color with SI2 clarity; and the rubies as medium-toned, moderately-strong slightly purplish-red color (slpR 5/4) with eye-clean clarity. The connectors are fully hallmarked by Bippart, Griscom and Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 19 mm (9/16 x 3/4 in). Weight: 14.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; ruby, .31 ct.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks made from Georgian cut steel and garnet buttons joined with 15K yellow gold chains. The garnets have very attractive medium-bright purplish-red coloring that contrasts nicely with bright sparkle of the cut steel “gems.” The garnet cabochons are held in place with fleur-de-lis shaped prongs. The faceting style of the steel indicates they were made in an earlier period, likely no later than 1790. The connecting chains have spring rings, so one face of each link can be removed for ease in placing the cuff hole. One of the spring rings is 9K and the other is gold-filled. They can easily be replaced with 14K by any jeweler. The back of one face has a worn engraving and the date 1871—probably they year the chains were added to the then 100 year-old buttons.

Origin: England, ca. 1770/1871. Condition: very good. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 30.7 cts.

A heavy pair of vintage 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks. Each round face is decorated with a band of opaque royal blue enamel surrounding a collet-set round brilliant cut diamond. The diamonds are about I/J color and are SI1 clarity. The faces are finished with pierced gallery sides. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The bar connectors are marked “750” and have a worn maker’s mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage

Size: 5/8” diameter

Weight: 14.5 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces with engine-turned engraving of extraordinary quality. Each face depicts a sailboat in the foreground with a small sailboat in the background, the design completed with waves, birds in the sky and a lighthouse atop a rocky coastline. The faces are joined by gold chains. Each face is stamped "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" diameter; smaller faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 19.7 gr.

A terrific pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks in 14K yellow and white gold by Harvey Avedon. The front faces feature a white gold circle engraved in a pattern of off-center concentric circles surrounded by a yellow gold border. The yellow gold back faces are decorated in a matching pattern of concentric circles. The design is typical of the strong geometric motifs used by Avedon from the late 1940s on. He was a maker of fine cufflinks, lighters and other men's accessories. Avedon was featured by many upscale retailers including Tiffany & Co.The connectors are marked “Avedon” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4” diameter; back faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 20.5 grams

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round faces are engraved with concentric circles around central old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright H-I color and VS clarity. Each piece is marked by Larter, who manufactured jewelry for leading houses including Bailey, Banks & Biddle; Tiffany; Cartier, etc. The set is presented in its original Bailey, Banks & Biddle fitted box. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .29 ct.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with diamonds and sapphires fromthe Coera Collection by Lunia. The rectangular faces are divided assymetrically into a matte-finished hammered yellow gold section studded with calibre cut sapphires, and a white gold section pave-set with round diamonds. The gemstones are of fine quality (sapphires medium-dark blue and diamonds I/VS1). The faces are connected by chains to baton backs finished in the matte hammered style. The backs of the faces are marked "18K" and are signed Coera.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 12.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, .5 carat

A classic pair of very high quality 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carrington. Each pair has one face centered with a round cut sapphire and another face with a old European cut diamond, both surrounded by a lightly engraved border. The quality of the stones is very good. The diamonds are graded at H color, VVS2 clarity and the sapphire are vivid violet-blue with eye clean clarity. The back of each face is marked with Carrrington's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 11/16". Weight: 14.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

A handsome pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising white jasper chalcedony carved into quadrants and enhanced with rope-twist gold bindings. The faces are connected by chains to barbell backs. The jasper chalcedony has a very attractive translucent milky white color with a tinge of bluish-gray (the photographs seem to have a more pink tint). Each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France. Dimensions: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are accented with sunburst engraving and are centered by round mixed-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires are very slightly greenish-blue in color, with dark tone and moderately strong saturation. They have excellent clarity. The toggles are marked “14K” and the toggles are marked “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: very good, light abrasions to the faces consistent with normal use. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 15.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .65 ct.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, each face enhanced with “quilted” engraving studded with round brilliant cut diamonds and sapphires. Cufflinks in this design are often marked “Tiffany & Co.” They were made by one of the Newark jewelers such as Larter for retail at Tiffany’s New York store. They always have generous weight and use high-quality gemstones. Sometimes, as in this case, they are marked only “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .80 carat.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K gold and lapis cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the classic Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This design is from that era. The ends of the batons are set with lapis cabochons in the deep violet-blue color sometimes referred to as "Afghan". The connectors are slightly arched to draw the cuffs close together. Aside from Hermes, de Percin created jewelry for Carter, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The connects are stamped with de Percin's hallmark and the guarantee marks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16" long
• Weight: 13.1 grams.

A classically elegant six-piece dress set worked in abalone mother-of-pearl, 14K yellow gold, platinum, and seed pearls. The cufflinks are double sided, with oval abalone plaques surrounded by engine-turned platinum borders. Each face is centered with a small seed pearl. The abalone has very fine luster with a nice play of green, rose, and a little orange flashes when caught in direct light. The four matching shirt studs have round faces. Each piece is stamped with Larter's hallmark. The set is sold in an old, though not original, leather-covered dress set box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 3/4" x 1/2"; studs, 1/2" diameter.
• Weight: 15.7 grams.

A rare and very interesting pair of flip-up stirrup cufflinks in 14K yellow gold by Carrington. Each end of the connectors are fitted with a green nephrite jade cabochon. This style was popularized by Cartier, and this is the only we’ve seen by the great American maker, Carrington. The use of nephrite is most unusual, as well, instead of the more common onyx or dark blue sapphire. Each cufflink is stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 7.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.48 cts.

A heavy pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces simply enhanced with parallel line engraving and joined by an ingenious swivel mechanism. We’ve never before seen this particular form of closure. The faces are slightly convex rather than being entirely flat, thus accounting for the unexpectedly heavy weight. The cufflinks are stamped with “585” for 14K gold and with French import marks. There is also an unidentified, but likely European, maker’s mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimensions: faces, 1/2 x 5/8 in. Weight: 13.5 gr.

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the “mors de filet” or “snaffle” design. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a woven design. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked and has the master goldsmith's mark for Gaetan de Percin.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955

• Condition: excellent, all original

• Dimensions: 9 x 16 mm (5/8 x 3/8 in)

• Weight: 9.9 grams

A fine pair of lapis lazuli cufflinks mounted in 18K yellow gold. The front faces are panel-cut lapis spheres and the backs are round lapis tablets set in twisted rope borders. The lapis is fine quality with just a tiny smattering of glittery pyrite. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca 1970

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: front faces, 7/16" diameter

Weight: 8.4 grams

Edwardian 18K gold and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds. The front faces are fashioned as spheres, the top half worked in platinum and the lower half in gold. The top of sphere features a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The back faces are designed as a crossbar set with diamonds, the ends terminating in smaller spheres, each set with a diamond. The appearance is very attractive, with a little sparkle but an overall masculine appeal. The backs are marked with unidentified Continental hallmarks.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: spheres, 3/8" diameter; bars, 3/4" long. Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A very unusual pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, one end the traditional ball shape and the other in a geometric “rooftop” shape. Louis Tamis & Sons opened in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other luxury objects. In the 1930s, the company manufactured for Paul Flato. By mid-century, it had become on of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers, creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears Tamis’ hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: “rooftop” faces, 1/2” x 1/2”; ball faces, 3/8” diam.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as a pair of discs joined by a diamond-shaped reserve. Each of the discs is engraved in a starburst motif, while the reserves feature oval star sapphire cabochons. The sapphires have good translucency and even, grayish-blue coloring. The stars are very distinct, bright and well-centered. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4" x 11/16". Weight: 15.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.75 cts.

An elegant 5-piece dress set worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum by Carrington. The set, comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, features round mother-of-pearl faces enclosed within engraved platinum borders and centered with small natural pearls. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each piece is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Size: cufflink faces, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter.

A very nice pair of Victorian double-faced 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with trios of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. The diamonds are old mine cut, while the sapphires and rubies are cabochons. The colored stones are of very good color and show now indications of heat treatment. The gold surfaces are worked with the slightly matte Russian finish popular for higher quality jewelry of the period. Jewelry set with red, white and blue gemstones tended to gain popularity around key anniversaries or important events in American history. It is likely that these cufflinks date to the centennial year of 1876. The back of each face is marked 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21/32" x 13/32". Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .16 ct; sapphire, .23 ct; ruby, .23 ct.

A very fine pair of Victorian figural cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold. The front faces are in the shape of ceremonial Scottish halberds. The shafts are set with round and antique cushion cut rubies and the heads are set with rose-cut diamonds. The rubies have nicely saturated color that contrasts well with the glitter of the diamonds. The rubies show no indications of heat treatment and their internal characteristics suggest they are of Burmese origin. The figural faces are joined with chains to baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The Scottish halberd was a distinctive type of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century. It eventually became a ceremonial object used by the Scottish nobility. Queen Victoria’s fondness for Scotland ensured that all things Scottish became very popular, and traditional emblems such as the halberd sometimes appeared in fashionable jewelry.

Circa 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 1” x 9/16”. Weight: 5.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .38 ct; ruby, .74 ct.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K gold cufflinks, the faces depicting a mythological dragon with a scaly body and feathered wings. The cufflinks are very finely detailed. The back are stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/19” diameter
• Weight: 9.8 grams

A handsome, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold and onyx cufflinks, each fashioned as two spheres joined by chain-like connectors. The design is a play on positive/negative space. The larger spheres are constructed in gold decorated with concentric rings and inset at the equator with a recessed band of black onyx. The smaller spheres are the opposite—onyx spheres inset with a slightly protruding band of gold at the equator. The gold mountings on the onyx spheres and the middle of each connector are decorated with concentric rings to echo the larger spheres. Altogether, this is an understated, but very sophisticated design. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Size: large spheres, 1/2" diameter; small spheres, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 13.7 grams.

An extremely attractive pair of cufflinks worked in 18K white gold, the faces featuring plaques of black mother of pearl set with diamonds. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the usual light color and displays a beautiful pearly luster with overtones of green and rose that can be clearly seen in the photos. The diamonds have bright color, estimated at F, and VVS clarity. Solid connectors join the faces to hinged toggles. The connectors are marked “750” for 18K gold, and have an unidentified maker’s mark “LG”.

• Origin: probably Continental Europe, ca. 1980
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Weight: 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats.

A handsome pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl plaques, each centering a bezel-set pink sapphire cabochon. The color contrast is quite attractive. The connectors are removable for ease in putting on the cufflinks. The cufflinks have nice weight and are comfortable to wear. Each is marked “18K” and also bears French import marks.

• Origin: possibly England or America, ca. 1910.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.12 carat.
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings or chips.

A superb pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the front faces decorated with champleve translucent red and opaque black enamels around central reserves of engine-turned engraving in a herringbone pattern. The geometric design of the enamel work is distinctively Art Deco. The red enamel is built up in a thick application to create the appearance of three-dimensional jewels. The backs are designed as faceted batons with tapered ends. The faces are connected by removable connectors. The cufflinks bear multiple 18K import marks for various European countries-Austria, France & England.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 6.2 grams.

A very attractive pair of Napoleon III 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the canted square faces studded with round mixed-cut rubies and old mine cut diamonds. The rubies are in the finest color-range, with strongly saturated, very slightly purplish-red hue. The nature of the inclusions in the stones suggests they are Burmese in origin. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality. The gold surface has a very subtle texturizing treatment that suggests moiré silk. The connectors are marked with a variety of French 18K hallmarks, including that of the guarantee office in Nancy and the “tete de Mercure” mark used 1840-1879.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 10.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .128 ct; diamond, .112 ct.