Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A handsome pair f 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces enhanced with an engraved waffle pattern and featuring a line of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have strong blue coloring and eye-clean clarity. The faces are connected to hinged backs decorated in a matching waffle pattern. The bridges are fully stamped with French master goldsmith’s marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 12 x 20 mm (1/2 x 13/16 in). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 12.9 gr.

An elegant pair of French 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face set with four rubies in star mountings surrounding a central rose cut diamond. The gemstones add a very attractive sparkle and color without being overwhelming. The faces are connected by gold chains. Stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/32" diameter. Weight: 4.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; ruby. .05 ct.

A handsome pair of French stirrup-form 18K gold cufflinks formed as interlocking ropetwist links. The cufflinks open at the pointed end and are very easy to put on and remove. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark (“RC” with a bird).

• Origin: France, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 27/32”
• Weight: 13.3 grams(/li>

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a modified oval stirrup (“etrier”) style. Stirrup cufflinks, originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era, are typically triangular in shape. The oval version, with its concealed hinge and clasp mechanisms, creates a seamless band of gold around the cuff for a very striking look. The surfaces are accented in a severely geometric ridged pattern. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 9.7 grams.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A handsome, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold and onyx cufflinks, each fashioned as two spheres joined by chain-like connectors. The design is a play on positive/negative space. The larger spheres are constructed in gold decorated with concentric rings and inset at the equator with a recessed band of black onyx. The smaller spheres are the opposite—onyx spheres inset with a slightly protruding band of gold at the equator. The gold mountings on the onyx spheres and the middle of each connector are decorated with concentric rings to echo the larger spheres. Altogether, this is an understated, but very sophisticated design. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Size: large spheres, 1/2" diameter; small spheres, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 13.7 grams.

A very good pair of doubled-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces made from carved mother-of-pearl punctuated with gold “stitches” and finely-worked laurel wreath borders. The backs of the faces are beautifully decorated in an engraved foliate pattern. The faces are connected by chains. Fully marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.3 grams.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold mesh stirrup-style cufflinks. A round diamond is set into each end of the closing mechanisms. The mesh is distinguished with diamond-shaped punched decoration that adds more texture to the design than is ordinarily seen. The diamonds are of nice quality, graded as I/J color, SI1 clarity. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and also bears an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8" wide. Weight: 20.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "stirrup" style popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s. The cufflinks are constructed from a solid bar, finished at each end with interlocking arches. By pulling on the ends, the arches can be unfolded for each in putting the cufflinks through the cuff holes. Then, a simple flip up causes the arches to hold the fabric tightly together. Cufflinks of the sort are seen in a number of variations, but this is a particularly handsome pair. The bars are marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, and also with an unidentified maker's mark "GP".

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 3/4" x 9/16". Weight: 11.5 grams.

An interesting and attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as reeded batons. The batons have a concealed spring-loaded mechanism that attaches to swivel hinges on the pair of struts that hold the batons in place. We've never before seen this particular mechanism. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks and also with the mark of the Parisian jeweler Gaétan de Percin. De Percin opened his studio in 1938 and executed designs for Hermès, Dior, Chanel, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: ecellent; all original. Dimensions: batons, 3/4 in. long. Weight: 8.5 grams.

An intriguing pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with triangular cabochons of labradorite. In bright lighting conditions, the stones exhibit the unusual play of bluish-greenish color desired in labradorite. The color seems to emanate from within the stones and float on the surface over the gray and cream body color. Each of the cufflinks is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified goldsmith's mark (S.Cie. with an anvil).

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 5/8". Weight: 17.4 gr.

A very attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs are decorated in an elegant herringbone weave pattern that creates just a little soft sparkle. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 13.0 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring collet-set rectangular garnet plaques in a deep wine red shade. The faces are connected by chains to classic baton backs. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 11/16" (14x18mm).
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.

An extremely rare pair of French 18K gold cufflinks set with reverse intaglio carved crystals ("Essex crystals") depicting a pair of colorful rabbits or hares. The faces are connected by chains to backs in the form of double-barreled shotguns. The guns' stocks are worked in yellow gold, while the barrels, triggers and trigger guards are worked in white gold. The crystals are finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with the maker's mark of an unidentified jeweler. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially those incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are most unusual.

NOTE: We are offering a matching lapel brooch as Item #1258400.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crystals, 5/8" diameter; shotguns, 1-1/16" long. Weight: 8.9 grams.

A fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “horsebit” (“mors de filet”) style. The visible surfaces are covered in rich dark green translucent enamel overlaid with a yellow gold ropetwist motif. When being worn, only the enameled discs are visible. Each cufflink is marked “France/18K”.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, one cufflink has a superficial enamel nick visible only under 10x magnification. Weight: 13.5 grams.

A fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “mors de filet” or “snaffle bit” style. When the ends are flipped up into their closed position, the entire cufflink has the look of horse bit, especially with the raised diamond patterns on each end. The ends of the connectors are inset with round brilliant cut diamonds. The cufflinks are marked indistinctly with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13 x 15 mm (1/2 x 9/16 in). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

An classic pair of French 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks with a most unusual mechanical snap mechanism. The batons have reeded surfaces with plain inset bands at either end. When one of the plain bands is pushed in, a hidden spring mechanism releases the face from its mate. Snap cufflinks were uncommon in France, and this is the first pair we've seen combining the snap with a mechanical action. The cufflinks bear French gold hallmarks and are stamped with an unidentified goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: batons, 29/32" long. Weight: 14.5 gr.

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.