Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Cufflinks and Accessories (503)

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli cufflinks from the "Bvlgari Bvlgari" collection by Bvlgari. The faces are set with round lapis lazuli plaques surrounded by a gold border engraved with the jeweler's exclusive logo. This design was made with several stones, including onyx and mother-of-pearl, but lapis is the most difficult to find. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. Each is marked "750" for 18K gold and with Bvlgari's "2337AL" hallmark.

Origin, Italy, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 10.6 gr.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

A fine pair of Boucheron cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold, the oval faces centered with richly-colored citrines. The gold surfaces are worked in a wavy ridged pattern, and the citrines are ingenuously fantasy-cut in the same style. The quality of workmanship is evidenced in the manner in which the carving of the citrines matches exactly to the ridges of the gold settings where the two meet. THe backs are hinged. The connectors are fully marked with Boucheron's retailer and marker's mark, the 18K gold standard and serial numbers.

Origin: France. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold knot-style cufflinks set with blue sapphires by Boucheron. The four-lobed faces are formed by a rope-motif tied in an ornate knot. Each lobe features a bright blue round sapphire. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and medium blue color. The faces are joined by solid connectors to toggle backs decorated in a complementary twisted rope design. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and has appropriate serial numbers, 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.

Red speckles stand out brightly against the dark greenish-black background of the bloodstone plaques featured in this pair of double-sided Victorian cufflinks by Larter. NOTE: the color contrast is more apparent in person than shown in the photos due to the reflectivity of the stones. Bloodstone, or Jasper, is also considered to be the "traditional" birthstone for March, while Aquamarine is considered to be the "modern" birthstone for March. Bloodstone is aligned with the Zodiac sign of Aries and is noted for its "healing properties." The stones are edged in 14K yellow gold borders engraved with a foliate motif. The oval faces are attached with figure-eight connectors signed with Larter's hallmark.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 5/8" x 1/2" (faces).
• 7.2 grams.

A heavy and attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks in the flip-up style. The round faces are decorated with engraved lines in a herringbone pattern. After being inserted in the button hole, the ends are flipped up to secure the cuff. This style is rather uncommon in cufflinks from North America, being much more prevalent in French cufflinks from the period. The connectors are signed by Birks and are marked “14Kt”.

Origin: Canada, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round faces are engraved with concentric circles around central old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright H-I color and VS clarity. Each piece is marked by Larter, who manufactured jewelry for leading houses including Bailey, Banks & Biddle; Tiffany; Cartier, etc. The set is presented in its original Bailey, Banks & Biddle fitted box. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .29 ct.

A superb pair of Austrian Art Deco cufflinks, worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are centered with moonstone cabochons surrounded by round mixed-cut rubties. The moonstones have fine bluish color and strong adularescence that contrasts beautifully with the richness of the rubies. The rubies are natural and show no signs of heat treatment. The stones are graded as medium-dark, vivid strong purplish red with eye-clean to slightly included clarity. The faces are joined by chains to baton-style backs. The combination of moonstone and ruby was particularly popular during the first quarter of the 20th century, but it's rarely seen with an effect as pleasing as this. Both cufflinks are hallmarked with Austrian hallmarks used in the provinces near Dresden from 1922 until 1925.

Origin: Austria, 1922-25. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 3.4 cts; ruby, 1.43 cts.

A rare and outstanding six-piece dress set in 14K yellow gold set with cat’s eye chrysoberyls by Larter for A. Sulka & Co. The gemstones are very dramatic and exhibit superior chatoyancy—the cat’s eye effect displayed when the stones are moved in light. Cat’s eye comes in a variety of colors, but the choice of this dark greenish-grayish black with the white eye is perfect for dress wear. The set comprises a pair of double-faced cufflinks and four shirt studs. Each piece is marked with Larter’s 14K stamp. The set is presented in its original fitted case from A. Sulka & Co., one of the most exclusive men’s clothing boutiques of the 20th century. The box can be dated between 1946 and 1973, the only years in which Sulka had a location in Palm Beach.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: cufflink faces, 1/2” diameter; stud faces, 5/16” diameter.
• Weight: 13.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 53.48 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; excellent box.

A handsome pair of Arts and Crafts (Aesthetic) period cufflinks in 14K yellow gold. The oval faces have irregularly pierced faces set with buff-cut amethysts. The amethysts have nice medium coloring. Their smooth upper surfaces match the simple overall style, while the faceted pavilions provide a little shimmer. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16 x 13/16 inches. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 11.68 carats.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks set with rose and single cut diamonds. The cufflinks have a classic design of whiplash curves typical of Art Nouveau jewelry. They are worked in both slightly matte bloomed and polished textures for added interest. The torpedo backs are connected by wired bridges. The cufflinks are stamped with French import marks, apparently those used for temporary admission into the country so they could be displayed at one of the international design salons around the turn of the 20th century.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions, faces, 3/4" x 13/32”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .66 carat
• Weight: 6.5 grams

A wonderful pair of Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The faces feature finely detailed images of a bearded, horned devil with pointed ears and wild hair shown against a fiery background. The workmanship of the chasing and engraving is superb. Mythological subjects were especially popular during the Art Nouveau period, and certainly this devil's head could be seen as an extension of that popularity. The faces are attached to plain oval backs, which have never been engraved with a monogram. Each cufflink is signed with the Tiffany & Co. mark used around 1900 and is marked for 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 3/4 x 3/8". Weight: 10.4 grams.

A rare pair of sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the faces with very detailed images of a Native American in profile. The Indian's long hair is woven with feathers and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with stalks of corn. These latter details are very much in the Art Nouveau taste. The backs of the cufflinks are marked "Sterling." Both Unger and Kerr made an Indian design with a full-face image. These cufflinks are of equal quality, but we do not know the maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16 x 1/2". Weight:

A great pair of Art Nouveau sterling silver bean-back cufflinks in the form of dogwood flowers. The faces are very nicely detailed. The backs of the faces and the connectors are marked “Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A very rare pair of Art Nouveau silver cufflinks, the round faces decorated with fine renderings of a bicycle racer in the medallion style. Some of the leading French sculptors of the day created such medallions for various sporting events and government functions. The faces are signed, but illegibly so. The backs are fully hallmarked for silver.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

An elegant pair of Art Nouveau floral double-sided floral cufflinks worked in 20K yellow gold. The faces are very finely hand-chased with an ornate pattern of daisies. The high gold content gives the cufflinks are very bright yellow color and heavy weight. The connecting chains are marked with an illegible maker's mark and a continental European mark for 20K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" x 11/32". Weight: 7.8 grams.

A very attractive pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with a swirling motif centering pairs of beautifully-colored opals. The opals have very good play-of-color with a preponderance of green and blue with a hint of orange-red. The backs of the faces are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, no dings to gold; one opal has a small chip that is only visible under very close inspection in raking light. Dimeions: faces, 3/4 x 7/16 in. Weight: 6.7 grams.

A rare pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces with repousse decoration representing Poseidon (“Neptune”), god of the sea. The god is identifiable by the trident that forms his crown. The background at first appears to be a simple stippled pattern, but careful examination shows that the background is actually worked in a very fine pattern of fish scales. Mythollogical subjects were very popular in men’s jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but this is the first time we’ve seen cufflinks with the image of Poseidon. The bean backs are marked by an unidentified American maker and are stamped “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 11/16” x 1/2". Weight: 5.3 grams.