Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A fine pair of vintage 18K gold flower-form earclips accented with diamonds and sapphires. The undulating petals are deeply cupped to create a realistic three-dimensional feel. Each earring is centered by a round brilliant-cut diamond surrounded by oval sapphires. The diamonds are graded as G/VVS2. The sapphires have fine pure blue coloring with excellent saturation. There are no marks, but there are inventory numbers. That, combined with the excellent workmanship and high quality stones, suggest the earrings are by a significant maker. The backs retain the original clips, but the posts have been removed. New posts can be added easily. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1980
• DIAMETER 1 1/8"
• WEIGHT 27.2 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT diamond, .30 carat; sapphire, 4.90 carats
• CONDITION excellent; posts removed

A classic 14K yellow gold and diamond tennis bracelet featuring 48 round diamonds separated by s-shaped gold bars. The diamonds are graded as J color, SI2 to I1 clarity. The clasp is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7" long. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold set with cultured pearls by Mikimoto. Each earring features a pair of 7.3mm pearls with very fine luster, blemish-free surfaces and cream body color with rose overtones. The pearls are simply nested in a swirl of gold. The backs are marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr.

This 23-1/2" 18K yellow gold box chain is heavy enough for a large pendant or locket. Box chains are especially attractive with more contemporary designs, and unlike some other chain styles, they don't crimp or become easily tangled. In addition to the primary clasp, the chain also has a safety chain. Marked with French 18K gold hallmarks and master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Condition: excellent; one spring ring has been replaced with a gold filled spring ring.
• Dimensions: length: 23-1/2"; width 1.5mm.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

An iconic pair of 18K yellow gold "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. These earrings were made in several sizes, and this pair is a larger size. The earrings never had posts, but they could be easily added, if desired. The backs are marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K” and signed by Picasso.

• America, ca. 1983
• Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 12.0 grams

An elegant pair of 18K gold earrings featuring large cultured mabe pearls surrounded by borders of brilliant round cut diamonds (E/F color; VVS2 clarity) and square cut blue sapphires of similar fine quality. The pearls have fine creamy body color with rose overtones and a high luster. Jewels by Spark were retailed by Neiman Marcus and other luxury purveyors. The original posts were removed for wear only with the omega clips, but could easily be replaced. The backs are marked "18" and are signed "Spark."

• Origin: America, ca 1980
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 13/16"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 carats; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A very attractive and intensely-colored 18K yellow and white gold ring set with diamonds, rubies and a sapphire. The center stone, an oval mixed-cut blue sapphire, has outstanding, vividly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The rubies are of similarly high quality. The two round brilliant-cut diamonds have H color and VS2 and SI1 clarity. The shank has a squared profile and two sizing beads, which can accommodate a range of finger sizes. The style of the ring would be appropriate for either a woman or man. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown 3/8” x 3/4". Finger Size: using a mandrel, the ring measures a 6-1/2, but it fits my 8 finger perfectly; polishing out the sizing beads would increase the size a bit more. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .39 ct; ruby, .30 ct; sapphire, .29 ct.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1970.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A 14K white gold figural pin in the form of a bird perched on a branch by Samuel Benham. The bird is pavé-set with 41 round single cut diamonds and 18 round brilliant sapphires. The gemstones have attractive sparkle enhanced by the textured surface of the gold setting. The back is stamped "14K" and with Benham's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .57 carat; sapphire, .29 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold and ruby heart-shaped love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is designed in a softly rounded font introduced in 1975. The size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark. It is also signed "Augis."

• Origin: France, 1969.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: 5/8” x 11/16" (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 1.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .005 carat.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring alternating flexible links set with cabochon blue sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. The collet-set sapphires, graded as medium-dark blue in color, have good clarity and show no signs of heat or other treatment. The diamonds, graded as SI2 clarity and J/K color, are bead-set in white gold. Tool marks on the reverse indicate that the bracelet is handmade. The box clasp is concealed under one of the sapphire links. Marked "18K" and with a serial number and unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.

An elegant and playful 18K gold “Lentil” pendant studded with an array of colored diamonds—pale blue, green, canary yellow and pink—each in a round brilliant-cut. The gold surface has a matte Russian finish that contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the diamonds. Perret is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers in America. He has won DeBeers’ diamond award twice, has been a consultant to Tiffany & Co. and has designed and manufactured a line of jewels for Mikimoto. He is most noted for his work with rare colored diamonds. The pendant looks best worn on a gold snake or wire chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Etienne Perret”, has the maker’s mark, and “18K”. Similar pendants are currently available from Perret, priced at approximately $1,200.

Origin: America, contemporary. Size: 17mm. Condition: excellent, a tiny scratch to the front surface visible upon very close inspection. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A classy pair of dangle earrings featuring oval cabochon aquamarines and round cabochon sapphires in a simple collet setting. These would look equally good with jeans or a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Dimensions: 1-7/16” long
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 8.52 carats; sapphire, 1.06 carats
• Weight: 5.0 grams

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A glamorous pair of drop earrings in a formal Georgian style set with rose cut diamonds and richly colored pear-shaped rhodolite garnets. The gems are set in silver-topped 12K gold to heighten the color of the diamonds, in the manner of period Georgian jewels. The main body of the earring is hinged and swings freeely from the surmounts. The earrings are completed with a diamond-set fringe at the bottom edge. The rose cut diamonds have nice sparkle that nicely complements the rich purple color of the garnets. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Dimensions: 2 3/8" long from top of earwire.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .62 carat; rhodolite garnet, 1.4 carats.

A lovely and weighty vintage 18K yellow gold oval locket, the front cover enhanced with a finely-worked net motif studded with nearly a half-carat small round brilliant cut diamonds in a résille (net) pattern. The diamonds offer a nice bit of glitter without being overwhelming. The back of the locket is stamped with the maker’s mark and English 18K hallmarks.

• Origin: England, 1974-99
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/16” excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat
• Weight: 15.1 grams.

An attractive 14K yellow gold ring with a double row of channel-set calibre-cut blue sapphires arranged in a swag design. The ribbed gold surfaces further add to the ring's sense of movement. The sapphires are well-matched and have good, saturated color. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America. Dimensions: 7/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/32" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .75 ct.

A very fine lapis plaque (Afghan quality) with beautiful even violetish-blue color set in a 14K gold mounting. The stone is held in place by gold scrolls reminiscent of cresting waves. The same design follows down the side of the shank. Afghan lapis has no eye-visible white calcite spots, but may have some sparkly pyrite, and is the highest quality level. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K China” and has an unknown maker’s mark. The quality of the mounting matches the quality of the gemstone. The ring could be worn by a man or woman.

• Origin: China, ca 2010
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 8-1/2
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 9/16” at crown; tapering to 1/4” at back of shank
• Weight: 8.3 grams

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold and steel earrings by Fred of Paris. The original FORCE 10 line was created by French jeweler Fred Samuels in 1966 and was based on pieces of rigging found on sailboats. Since 1936, the Parisian house had been one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, the Samuels’ combination of precious metals with stainless steel was a shocking innovation. In the forty years since the collection debuted, Fred of Paris has continually tweaked the collection by adding gemstones or other decorative elements—in this case cloisonné enamel. The translucent green, red and blue flowers appearing against an opaque white background gives the earclips a casual style that meshes nicely with the gold and steel setting. They’d be perfect to wear with either jeans or business attire. The backs are fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K gold standard, and are signed “Fred of Paris/Force 10”.

Origin: France, ca. 1990-1998. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” long; 7/16” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, in a streamlined modern style with a hidden bail, is in one of the rarest versions. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ signature and maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent; the marks on the bottom edge of the pendant in the second photo are lighting reflections only. Dimensions: 3/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 3.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

A wonderful and very rare vintage 14K gold charm depicting a golf course under a glass cover. The clubhouse is at the top and the 18th hole is at the bottom. In between, there’s a sand trap and water hazard. There’s also a small ball bearing and just like the old-fashioned kids’ game, the idea is to gently manipulate the charm to get the ball to drop into the 18th hole cup while avoiding the sand trap and water hazard. The details are highlighted with colored enamels. But most charming of all is the engraved inscription on the reverse: “April 15, 1950 to April 15, 1975 25 years of playing a ‘round’ with you. Love Joe” The rim is marked with Dankner’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, 1975
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss or dings
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail).
• Weight: 18.4 grams

A wonderful and very rare pair of signed Eva Segoura ladybug earrings worked in 18K yellow gold, and set with hematite and rubies. Segoura was a very exclusive Parisian jewelry designer at 20 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré for a short time. Many of her jewels were rather whimsical and featured animals such as ladybugs, caterpillars, mice and blowfish. Segoura made ladybug earrings in several variations using different precious and semi-precious stones. These ladybug earrings have bodies of carved hematite set in gold frames. The sides of each ladybug are adorned with collet-set cabochon rubies, as are the eyes. The little creatures are completed with alert antennae and ball feet. The clips are marked with the maker’s mark, the French 18K guarantee mark, and a partially obscured serial number. The backs of the frames are signed “Eva Segoura” in script.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 15/16”. Weight: 28.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.15 carats.

A lovely brooch in 14K yellow gold set with 19 Mikimoto-quality cultured pearls. The 4mm pearls have cream body color with rosy overtones. The luster is excellent. The back is marked “K14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-15/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A very cute and heavy 14K yellow gold dachshund pin, the gold body accented with small emerald eyes and a white gold collar studded with small diamonds. The pin is very finely modeled with clear definitions of musculature and the Florentine engraving nicely mimics the short hairs of a dachshund’s coat. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 12.7 grams.

A vintage 18K yellow gold figa (also "mano fico") charm or pendant. The figa is considered a weapon against the "evil eye" and a protector of creative forces, including the womb. The form itself is derived from ancient representations of female genitalia. The wrist has a traditional flowered cuff.

• 3.3 grams
• 1 3/8" long (excluding jump ring)

A beautiful and very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. Each link is designed as a pair of ropetwist arches joined by a prong-set round sapphire. The links are hinged, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The sapphires are medium dark blue with moderately strong saturation, and show no indications of heat treatment. This classic design would look good with a business suit, a cocktail dress or jeans. The box clasp is marked “18” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 56.0 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.6 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, in a streamlined modern style with a hidden bail, is in one of the rarest versions. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ signature and maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent; the marks on the bottom edge of the pendant in the first and second photos are lighting reflections only.
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 4.4 gr.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

An interesting pair of 14K gold earstuds, the rectangular faces worked in a textured basketweave design. One earring is in white gold and the other is in yellow. Both are centered with a prong-set round-cut diamond of good clarity and color. Marked "14K".

Origin: America. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/32" x 1/4". Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

An exceptionally fine Pampillonia 18K gold brooch in the form of a running thoroughbred horse mounted by a jockey. The workmanship is simply outstanding. Every detail of the horse's flying tail and the musculature underlying the coat are beautifully worked. The folds and wrinkles of the jockey's silks are equally detailed. The horse's eye is set with a small round ruby and the hoof of a hind leg touches on a .18-carat round brilliant cut diamond, graded as J color, SI2 clarity. The use of a yellow-green gold is an inspired choice that somehow keeps the rather heavy brooch from appearing overwhelming. The pin is unsigned, but is definitely by Pampillonia. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 2010
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-3/8"
• Weight: 30.8 grams

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style from the 1970s. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

The assymetrical setting of colored Tahitian pearls against the strictly geometric triangular shape of the the 18K gold setting gives this modernist pendant a striking look. The pearls include a 8.18 mm aubergine with rose overtones at the upper left, a 9.20 mm silver-gray with rose overtones at left, and a 9.18 mm silver-blue with aqua overtones at the bottom right. All have very good lustre and smooth surfaces. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (Ste. P with a pi symbol). We have shown the pendant on chain for display purposes--it would benefit from a heavier chain, perhaps a box link.

• Excellent condition.
• 3/4" x 1 3/8".
• 10.8 grams.

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings from Elsa Peretti’s “Comma” collection for Tiffany & Co. These are the large size, which are quite difficult to find. The design was inspired by the simple, sweeping curve of a comma. When worn, the arc mirrors the shape of the ear for a sleek, contemporary look. Each earring is marked by Tiffany and signed Peretti. Only the small size (less than half as long and about a third the weight) are currently available at Tiffany for $3,000.

• Ca 1990
• Condition: excellent, no dings
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 7/8” (38 x 19 mm)
• Weight: 13.3 grams

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in Tiffany & Co.’s classic “Signature” pattern. The simple x-shaped design can be worn with everything from jeans to a cocktail dress. These earrings were produced in several sizes, these being the largest. The design is no longer in production and the large earrings are very difficult to find. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips. If desired, the posts could be removed without disturbing the Tiffany signature, allowing the earrings to be worn as clips. Signed “T&Co.” and marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1991. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 1”. Weight: 23.3 grams.