Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A delightful 14K yellow gold money clip in the form of a wishbone. The back of the clip is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark. It is interesting to note that we've seen this exact money clip with a Cartier hallmark. Leading houses such as Cartier and Tiffany often bought gold objects such as money clips and cufflinks from the better manufacturing jewelers in the New York and Newark area.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" x 1-3/16". Weight: 12.1 grams.

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A beautiful 14K yellow gold floral pin by Tiffany & Co. Pointed, swirled petals surround a central diamond and blue sapphire cluster. The prong-set, brilliant-cut stones have excellent bright color and clarity as expected of Tiffany. This brooch is an excellent example of the sort of stylized floral gem-set designed that Tiffany produced for daywear toward the end of the retro period and in the very early 1950s. The back is marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, .28 carat.

PLEASE NOTE: We are also offering the matching earclips (Item #490782).

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

An exceptionally fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet by Pierre Baltensperger. Each of the plaques represents a different flower, depicted in semi-abstract ways. Among the flowers are daisies, cyclamens, fuschias, morning glories and honeysuckle. Baltensperger was founded in 1878 by Walter Baltensperger, who quickly established the firm’s luxury reputation. His grandson Pierre Baltensperger assumed the lead in 1950. Pierre, born in 1927, became one of Switzerland’s most important sculptors and visual artists, in addition to his work with jewelry. This design, though similar in some respects to Georg Jensen’s work from the 1920s, likely dates to the late 1940s. The clasp is signed “Baltensperger” and has 18K marks and inventory numbers.

Origin: Zurich, Switzerland, ca. 1947. Dimensions: 5/8” x 7-5/8”. Weight: 40.0 gr.

An outstanding 18K gold pendant set with an amazing enameled alpine scene by Carlo Poluzzi (1899-1978), the greatest Swiss enamellist of the the 20th century. Poluzzi sometimes used the very difficult technique of applying translucent enamel over an engraved gold plate to produce brilliant sunrise or set effects as seen in the left side of the sky in this example. This required multiple coats of different colored enamels which increased the likelihood of unwanted cracks during the multiple firings. Poluzzi was perhaps the only enamellist capable of this technique in the 20th century, and indeed, the scene is signed at the lower left. Of course, this example is also signed at the lower left. In the 1920s, Poluzzi (still in his low 20s) became the master of Emaux de Genève, the provider of the highest quality enameled dials and cases for luxury horlogers such as Vacheron & Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Gubelin. This plaque is set as a pendant by the Gubelin. The Holbein-style setting features square cut rubies and emeralds amid swirling gold foliage. The gemstones are of very fine quality with intense, saturated coloring and excellent clarity. The reverse is stamped with Gubelin’s hallmark and the Swiss gold mark for 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-7/16”
• Weight: 26.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .8 carat; emerald, .47 carat

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed A.A., is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is perfect for either a delicate chain or to wear as a charm on a bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

Presented in its original box, a lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis’ initials, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a elegant floral border. The use of a single cut diamond, and the Augis initials indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

The pendant is presented in its original silk moire book-shaped box. The interior is printed with the excerpt from Gérard’s poem. These boxes are incredibly rare.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-1/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

A wonderfully detailed 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a spaniel. The shape of the dog’s head and the amount of fur suggests that the pin represents a Springer or English Cocker spaniel. The pin has substantial weight. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, circa 1935.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 6.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.

For anniversary or wedding jewelry, there’s nothing more romantic than Alphonse Augis’ love token jewelry. Usually, they are round medallions, but this exceptionally rare piece is in the form of a love letter using a rebus to spell out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow,” a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand, author of “Cyrano de Bergerac” in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. Augis created the love token in 1907, and this is the only example we’ve seen in a love letter form. The pendant is stamped with Augis’ maker’s mark and with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 25/32” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A pretty pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a stylized floral design, each centered with a round opal cabochon. The stones have white body color and a “pinfire” pattern of play-of-color. The shape of the gold setting creates an interesting reflecting pattern with the opals. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent, converted from screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1-1/16” long from top of wire; 5/8” wide
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 1.2 carats
• Weight: 4.9 grams

A very attractive Retro 14K yellow gold and platinum ring, set with an old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of round blue sapphires. The stones are set in very interesting mounting with a looping quality typical of Retro pieces. The diamond is I color, I1 clarity and the sapphires are graded as medium tone, moderately strong violet-Blue (vB5/4). Retro pieces set with sapphires are less common than those featuring ruby, citrine, amethyst, etc. The interior of the shank is stamped “585” for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/8” x 3/4”. Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; sapphire, .39 ct.

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

Very fine, heavy, fully three-dimensional 18K yellow gold figural brooch in the form of a 420 Class racing sailboat by Fred of Paris. It can also be worn as a pendant. The mast is fully Bermuda-rigged with beautifully detailed sails worked in contrasting matte and polished gold. Two figures are hiking out over the edge of the hull and waves lap at the sides. The 420 Class was designed in 1959 and became the leading training vessel for Olympic-class boats. Fred designed a series of brooches depicting popular European racing sailboats such as the "420" and the "Flying Dutchman". The bottom of the hull is stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an obscured maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

• France, ca 1965
• Excellent condition, sharp detail, all original
• 1-1/4" x 1-7/8"
• 11.7 grams.

A fine 1930's 14K yellow gold Art Deco mechanical wristwatch by by Hy Moser & Cie, and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Moser was the most important watchmaker in Imperial Russia, selling many of his goods to the Imperial family and courtiers. After the Revolution, the company was relocated to Switzerland and continued to provide movements to luxury retailers such as Tiffany.

The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".