Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

An unusually fine and large 14K yellow gold sunburst brooch set with 105 natural seed pearls surrounded a .33 carat old European cut diamond (graded I, VS2). The pearls have very fine color and lustre. The piece retains its original folding pendant bail and pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. Sun-themed jewels were meant to symbolize “life-giving force” or “divine light,” and were often set with white stones such as pearls or diamonds to suggest “purity.” Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.6 grams

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

A lovely, medium-size Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold pin in the form of a violet. Each of the petals is beautifully decorated in shaded translucent enamels in tones of violet and yellowish-cream. The translucency and high gloss of the enamel create a tremendous sense of depth in the design. The edges of the petals are set with rows of tiny seed pearls and the flower is centered with an old European cut diamond, graded as I/J, SI2. The reverse retains its original clap and pinstem and is marked for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

An elegant Edwardian bracelet comprising rectangular filigree plaques of 14K gold centering collet-set oval amethysts. The filigree is amazingly detailed. The amethysts have rich, saturated color and no zoning. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-5/16” long, 1/2" wide
• Weight: 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 16.02 carats

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

A pair of silver egg-shaped earrings decorated with ornate floral guilloche engraving below translucent golden enamel. The enamel gives the appearance that the eggs are constructed entirely of gold. The ridge around the center of each egg was left unenameled for color contrast. The upper half of each egg is set with an old European cut diamond. The 14K gold wires are possibly original, but more likely replacements. The bail of each egg is stamped with illegible hallmarks. Purchased in Paris.

• Origin: Russia, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide; 3/4" long (excluding wires)
• Weight: 7.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

A delicate Art Nouveau 10K gold pin featuring a pansy decorated with translucent violet, pink and cream enameled. The flower center and a bud are set with small seed pearls. The brooch retains its original pinstem and clasp stamped "10K." In Victorian flower language, the pansy conveyed the meaning "Think of me." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for new brides.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good; a small enamel flake to the tip of one petal (superficial only and does not affect the color)
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/8"
• Weight 2.5 grams.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.