Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (171)

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond is graded as G color, SI1 clarity. Griffins in brooches are often shown in a crouching position, but in this example, the creature is standing upright in a more assertive pose. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and with the master goldsmith’s mark “Vve G” for “widow Godivier.” In rare instances, more enterprising French women were able to successfully assume control of the family business after their husbands had died.

• Origin: France, ca. 1904-1911
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 15.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .21 carat

A lovely early Art Nouveau 18K gold sliding locket by the acclaimed medallist Jean-Baptiste Emile Dropsy. The front cover shows a bare-shouldered woman wearing a diamond necklace and hair ornament feeding a diamond seed to a bird in mid-flight, all surrounded by a bough of chestnut leaves. The diamond accents (“habillé”) add a bit of sparkle to the design. The bird appears to be a dove, representative of “love” in Victorian symbology, while the chestnut leaves represent the sentiment “do me justice.” Taken together, the message means some along the lines of wishfulness for being treated well in love. Dropsy was an early Art Nouveau designer and his female designs tend to be a bit more teasing Gibson Girl than the more overtly sexy nudes that came along a decade or so later. The back cover is decorated with a curved spray of roses complete with thorns. Roses were also used to symbolize love, and when thorns are present, sometimes hinted that love is not without occasional pain. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and mirrored glass, which could be replaced with photos if desired. The locket is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent, all original, a small ding on the back cover visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”
• Weight: 11.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond has bright (G-ish) color and is VVS2 clarity. The griffin is depicted against a background of swirling foliage. The back is engraved to match the texture of the front. The griffin has two loops on the backs of the wingtips so it can be worn as a pendant. It originally also had a removable pin stem which is no longer present. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and a partial goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, removable brooch mechanism absent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau gold watch pin in the form of a maiden appearing within the ruffled form of a pansy blossom. Tendrils of her hair cascade out toward the edges eventually disappearing into the veining of the flower’s petals. The back retains the original clasp and a hook to hang a watch. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. The hook could then be used to suspend a pearl or other gemstone drop. The clasp is indistinctly stamped with a mark for the karat content, and it is tested and guaranteed as 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”
• Weight: 4.4 grams

A nice Art Nouveau griffin pendant worked in 18K gold and platinum, the wings set with rose cut diamonds and the open jaws grasping another diamond. The pose, in a sort of near-frontal pose with detailed ribbed wings outspread, is somewhat unusual and makes a dramatic statement. The piece was originally a brooch and pendant combination, but the original pinstem was removed. The clasp remains and is stamped with French 18K marks. The pendant loops are original. The griffin also retains its original hook that would have been used to suspend a watch or a pearl or gemstone drop.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent; a couple of small dings to the back side near the hook
• Dimensions: 1-7/8” x 1-1/2”
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat

An extremely rare and beautifully made French Art Nouveau pin depicting a sirène (mermaid) and sea monsters. The rarity of the design cannot be overstated—for every 50 or so griffins maybe one mermaid piece turns up. The mermaid is depicted within a trefoil border created by the bodies of the writhing sea monsters. A garland of lilypads (interesting that the designer didn’t remember that lilypads grow in freshwater while mermaids live in oceans) preserves her nether region modesty. She is shown blowing a large conch shell horn that was used to calm the seas for favored sailors and to brings storms to doom the unlucky. The pin retains its original pinstem and clasp marked with French 18K gold marks and also with the master goldsmith’s mark for Alfred Rayat who worked in Paris 1885-1907. A folding bail could be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/16”
• Weight: 11.0 grams

Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Mississippi River Pearl & Diamond Pendant/ Pin An elegant Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from elongated Mississippi River pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old European cut diamond. The pearls have attractive luster and the diamond is I color and VS2 clarity. The back retains the original folding pendant bail and pinstem/clasp. The back is marked 14K and is stamped with the maker’s mark for Crossman & Co.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” diameter
• Weight: 5.7 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .06 carat

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet featuring a row of five collet-set amethysts separated by gold floral and foliage sprays. The amethysts have good saturated color free of zoning and are nicely matched. The bangle is hinged so it is easy to put on and remove. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/32” wide; 6-5/16” circumference
• Weight: 15.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 4.09 carats