Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (163)

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Art Nouveau pendant depicting Erato, the goddess muse of lyric poetry, by the noted French medallist Lucien Joseph René Janvier (b 1878). The goddess is depicted with a crown of laurel leaves on her flowing hair and with a cithara (ancient lyre-like instrument), her traditional emblem in the background. Janvier was particularly known for his medallist jewels and his shortened signature appears in the design just behind the goddess’ head. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4 x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 13.8 gr.

A large and extremely rare 18K gold scenic locket depicting a detailed image of four passengers in an early automobile waving as an Antoinette monoplane with two passengers flies by. The car's headlights are set with rose cut diamonds. The detailed scene includes a flock of birds dispersed by the airplane, a plume of exhaust smoke behind the car, and another automobile with passengers and a village in the distant background. A female passenger leans from the side of the car, waving her handkerchief at the passing airplane. The bottom edge bears a signature, likely that of Holy Frères, partly hidden by the applied scalloped border. The interior retains the two original photo frames. The back cover is engraved with an ornate three-letter monogram and the date 7-12-1915 (December 7 in the European dating system). The bail is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: France or Switzerland, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 1 9/32" diameter
• Condition: excellent; a pinpoint ding to the back cover
• Weight: 8.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond eight: .03 carat

A wonderful Art Nouveau enameled gold witch's heart worked in shades of green, yellow and rose enamel over an engraved background and set with a pair of natural baroque pearls. The shading of the enamels is lovely and contrasts nicely with the luster of the pearls. In Victorian symbology, the witch's heart was used to express the sentiment of "bewitched by love." We've never before seen a witch's heart in an Art Nouveau enamel. The pendant has a folding bail and also a pinstem for wear as a brooch. The reverse is stamped with the mark for A.J. Hedges.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1". Weight: 7.3 grams.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

An elegant Art Nouveau ring converted from an antique French 18K gold stickpin. The gold clover is decorated with small natural pearls on each leaf arranged around a small bright green emerald. The stem is worked in platinum and is set with a small mine-cut diamond for a little added sparkle. The 18K gold and platinum clover is attached to a 14K yellow gold band.
Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Clover Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 1.7 gr.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A classic French Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring a young woman with naught but a sprig of flowers covering her breasts set against a poppy blossom. A swallow appears over her shoulder. In Victorian symbology, swallows variously represented wishes for a safe return or “home and heart” since the they mate for life. Similarly, poppies had various meanings including imagination and pleasure. The design was created by the sculptor Armand-Pierre-Louis Quenard (1865-1925) and presented at the inaugural salon of the Société des Artistes Français in 1901. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1901.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

An elegant Victorian 10K yellow gold locket depicting a curving branch of poppies with a small star-set old mine cut diamond to one side. The reverse has a period monogram. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 4.2 gr.

Very nice Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a lady’s head. A 4-pt. old mine-cut diamond of very good quality is set at the end of her trailing hair. The surface of the gold has the “bloomed” texture characteristic of Art Nouveau jewelry.

Origin: probably American, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 11/16” x 7/16”; overall length, 2-7/8”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled pin worked in 18K gold. The ornate multi-curved frame encloses a trio of grape leaves decorated with translucent enamel suspending a cluster of grapes formed from small pearls. The pin has a very delicate and elegant look. In the Victorian language of flowers, the grape symbolized "charity." Mark 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 15/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 2.9 grams.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

A tiny enameled violet and a free-hanging baroque freshwater pearl enhance the dainty 10K gold pendant, complete with a curb link chain. Violets were used to represent the sentiments of love and faithfulness in the Victorian era. The pearl has nice luster that contrasts prettily with the colors of the enamel. The chain is marked 10K, and the pendant is tested 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/4" x 9/16"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.3 grams.

Two classical satyr masks peer out from the sides of this Art Nouveau watch fob pendant. Each snarling face is surrounded by whiplash curls of gold that rise to the top of the fob. The bottom surface is engraved with a period “JEM” monogram. The gold surface has soft matte bloomed texture characteristic of the period. The jump ring is original. Stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 5/8” x 1-1/2”
• Weight: 3.9 grams

A pretty shell cameo of a young woman set in a particularly nice 10K yellow gold frame. The carving is well done, making good use of the color subtleties in the shell. The rose motif of the frame echoes the flowers carved into the cameo. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The reverse is stamped with the “ESEMCO” mark for Shiman Jewelry Co. and also "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no cracking. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-15/16” (excluding bail). Weight: 8.5 gr.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

A lovely 14K yellow gold pendant necklace, the scrolling elements enhanced with translucent enamel in the Newark style and centering a bezel-set oval pink tourmaline. The pendant suspends a baroque freshwater pearl flanked by two pink tourmaline briolette drops. The overall appearance is very pastel and lovely. The back of the pendant is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Ehrlich & Sinnock.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: necklace length, 17”; pendant, 1” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.0 carat.

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet comprising foliate shaped links set with round amethysts alternating with fleur-de-lis shaped links. The amethysts have the deep violet coloring typical of the best quality Siberian material. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 19.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.22 carats

A gorgeous Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover designed with what appears to be a flower with ornately ruffled petals. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the flower petals are actually the flowing hair of a woman whose face can be seen at the upper portion of the locket. The design is even completed with pistils and stamens. "Anthropomorphism"--the merging of human and animal or human and plant characteristics was a popular decorative element in the Art Nouveau period. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a few pinpoints on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

An Art Nouveau 14K gold ring featuring an oval carnelian cabochon set in a marquise-shaped surround decorated with a stylized foliage pattern. The 6x8mm carnelian has very nice coloring and good translucency. Originally a stickpin, a 14K gold shank has been added.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown 5/8” wide
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.6 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold ring set with an oval brilliant-cut citrine. The setting is particularly elegant. The stone is flanked on either side by a golden fuschia blossom. The citrine is of the very best quality, with extremely saturated orangey-gold color and exceptional brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped 585 for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 2.18 cts.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a violet, each of the petals worked in soft shades of violet, rose, cream and green. The flower is centered with a 10-pt old European cut diamond. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet represented faithfulness. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 7/8”.

A gorgeous and generously sized Art Nouveau 14K gold and diamond locket by Carter, Gough & Co. The cover features a maiden emerging from a bouquet of flowers. The choice of flowers in the bouquet sends a very specific hidden meaning in Victorian floral symbolism. The iris on the left means, "I have a message for you," and the jonquil on the right means, "I desire a return of affection." The flowers and the maiden's hair are studded with six old mine cut diamonds. The background is worked in a stippled pattern that contrasts beautifully with the hand-chased design. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram "MCR". The interior retains the original frame and is engraved "June 30, 1903." The interior is stamped with Carter, Gough's hallmark.

• America, 1903
• 1-1/2" diameter (excluding the bail and jump ring)
• 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A rare 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the front cover depicting a Ford Model B automobile (1904-06). The headlights and the center of the grille are set with old mine cut diamonds sparkling as if truly lit up. The car is very finely detailed with excellent depth to the design, clearly showing the early right-hand drive and the fluted sides of the engine compartment. The back bears an ornate period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1905
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; a couple of pinpoint dings to the back cover hidden among the monogram
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau depiction of the Greek goddess Iris worked in 14K yellow gold. The goddess wears an elaborate floral headdress punctuated with an old mine cut diamond. Her wings, in folded position, can just be seen behind her shoulders. The brooch is finished with a garland of iris blossoms and foliage. Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and, as such, connected the earthly and heavenly worlds. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and watch hook. It can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the pinstem appears to be original, but is not gold.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

An superb 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with an ornate image of a Valkyrie, one of the "Choosers of the Slain" in Norse and Germanic mythology. The image is beautifully detailed with fine facial features, flailing hair and, of course, the winged helmet set with an old European cut diamond for a touch of sparkle. She is depicted in mid-flight with a background of swirling clouds. The interior retains the original frames and covers. The back has a period "CEC" monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Noted for both their beauty and their iron will, the Valkyries were responsible for choosing who would die a hero and who would simply die. Once the heroes were ensconced in the afterlife, the Valkyries provided them with wine, food and various other desirable services for all eternity.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

This Art Nouveau medallion brooch depicts the beautiful Ophelia (spelled “Ophelie” in the French tradition), surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, as symbols of watery grave in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. This design was created by the French jeweler and sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) for the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme in Paris. Like many other Art Nouveau medalists, Vernier licensed some of his designs to various manufacturing jewelers around the world. This example is American and is marked 14K. The brooch retains its original watch hook and pinstem/clasp.

NOTE: The brooch could easily be worn as a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1908.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold medallion pin depicting Hamlet’s beloved Ophelia (the brooch uses the French spelling “Ophelie”) surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, all symbols of her watery grave after she was spurned by Hamlet. Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. The back has a hook that would have been used to suspend a watch. The back retains the original c-clasp (marked 14K) and extended pinstem. Unlike most Art Nouveau medallion pins, this example is not hollow and is heavy. This design was created by the French jeweler Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) and was introduced at the 1908 Exposition de la Parure de la Femme in Paris.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with repousse decoration of a young woman wearing a diamond-set diadem and flowers in her hair encircled in a laurel wreath. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The old European cut diamond add a perfect touch of sparkle. The interior retains both of its original frames and glass covers. The front side of the interior also contains a fragment of alabaster with carving. It might be Egyptian or something equally ancient, but whatever it is, someone took the trouble to create a mounting so that it fits perfectly into the repousse recesses of the cover. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; two minor pinpoints on back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket depicting the head of a lion in 3/4 profile on the cover. His eyes are set with round faceted rubies (natural and untreated) and he grasps a 5-pt old European cut diamond in his jaws. The flowing mane is just visible behind the head and blends into the swirling border that completes the design. The plain back cover was never engraved.

• America, ca 1890
• Very good condition; a few small pinpoints on the back cover
• 1-1/8" diameter
• 6.5 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .05 carat

A very rare 14K gold and diamond Art Nouveau medallion watch pin featuring a portrait of Sacagawea. She is shown in profile, wearing a feathered headdress and a bear claw necklace, gazing out over plains dotted with teepees. An old mine cut diamond (G, VVS2) glimmers in place of the sun on the far opposite side. This piece was likely made at the time of the centennial anniversary of the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1905. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem. The clasp is marked for 14K and has Larter’s hallmark. The piece can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail.

• America, ca. 1905.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• 3/4” diameter
• Weight: 5.2 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's wedding band decorated with a laurel wreath motif studded with bezel-set old European cut diamonds and round brilliant blue sapphires. The diamonds are I/SI2 quality and the sapphires have a rich deep blue color. All surfaces of the gold are fully decorated with hand-chased details. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details, typical wear abrasions to sapphire facets consistent with age. Finger Size: 9-1/4. Dimensions: 1/4" wide. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .2 cts; sapphire, .4 cts.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set aquamarine. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent enamel in shades of blue, green and cream. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored aquamarine. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an amethyst and enameled in shades of violet (Item #1414819)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; two 1/16" enamel nicks barely visible without magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.25 grams
• Approximate Total Aquamarine Weight: .7 carat.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled honeymoon pin featuring a diamond-set blossom enameled in delicate shades of iridescent translucent rose, yellow and white enamel set against a gold crescent moon. Delicate floral pins of this sort were popular gifts for new brides. In Victorian symbology, flowers could represent honey and crescents, the moon. Thus, honey + moon = honeymoon. The back is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 5/8"
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A particularly lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold flower pin in the form of an iris. The flower is enhanced with iridescent enamels in delicate shades of green, cream and purple. A 3-point old mine cut diamond is nestled in the center of the blossom. The flower petals are deeply ruffled and finely engraved for added texture. The back retains the original clasp, stamped with the mark for Whiteside & Blank, but the pinstem has been replaced.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; replaced pinstem. Dimensions: 1-3/4 x 11/16". Weight: 5.7 gr.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

An outstanding American Art Nouveau pansy brooch/pendant in a large size, enameled with translucent enamels in shades of royal blue, cream, yellow and maroon. The flower is centered with a .20-carat old European cut diamond of H color, SI2 clarity. The pansy is very nicely shaped, with deeply rippling petals that beautifully enhance the enameling. The back is stamped “14K” and has an unidentified maker’s mark “DeEs”og. The piece can be worn as either a brooch or pendant.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: enamel has one small nick at the bottom left edge (less visible than in the photo) and light surface scratches; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”.
• Weight: 11.8 grams.
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A fine large-size enameled 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau flower pin the form of a pansy. The petals are beautifully decorated with purple, violet cream and yellow opaque enamels. The enamel has a soft luster that mimics the velvety texture of an actual pansy. The flower is centered with a 15-point round brilliant diamond of exceptionally good quality (E color, VVS2 clarity). The specific shape and arrangement of the petals identifies this pin as being made by Larter, but the company also supplied these pins to luxury retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier where they were marked with the retailer’s mark. This pin has an unidentified mark (the Greek letter omega) and has faintly inscribed inventory numbers often found on pieces that were sold by luxury jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, one 1/8” enamel flake on one of the upper white rims (nearly invisible since the flake is only to the surface of the enamel and no gold shows through). Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau four-leaf clover honeymoon watch pin, the leaves beautifully enameled in shades of translucent green, yellow and rust. The 14K yellow gold crescent moon is set with a graduated row of pearls, while an old European cut diamond centers the clover. The back retains the original clasp and watch hook. In Victorian flower language, the clover symbolized "good luck." When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was "honeymoon," and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family. Since the meaning here is "good luck on your honeymoon," we'd have to assume that this particular pin was a gift from the bride's mother rather than from her groom. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" x 1"
• Weight: 3.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 ct

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral brooch featuring an ornate lily blossom enameled in translucent shades of blue and yellow enamel. The engraving of the gold surface under the enamel shows through to add elegant texture. The flower is centered by a small old mine cut diamond and is surrounded by a swirling frame set with 59 seed pearls. The reverse retains the original watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced clasp. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A 14K gold Art Nouveau enameled violet and horseshoe pendant using the Victorian language of flowers to convey the sentiments "good luck" and "I'll always be true." The violet is centered with an old European cut diamond and the horseshoe is studded with seed pearls. The back retains the original pin and a folding, so the piece can be worn as a pin or pendant. The clasp is marked "14K."

• America, ca 1900
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8" excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat
• 4.0 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin/pendant formed as a pair of enameled flowers with foliage against an ornate asymmetrically scrolled pearl-set background. The flowers appear to be apple blossoms and are beautifully enameled in iridescent shades of yellow and rose. The smaller flower is centered with a small old European cut diamond. The other flower and the scrolled background is set with seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp as well as a folding bale to the piece can be worn as either a pin or a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all origina; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

You know you'll live a life of good luck when you're wearing this 14K gold upturned horseshoe pendant necklace. The horseshoe is adorned with blue enameled forget-me-nots, flowers that conveyed exactly that meaning in the Victorian language of flowers. Originally a brooch, the horseshoe has been converted to a pendant with the addition of a delicate 14K gold split cable chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a brooch; excellent enamel.
• Dimensions: pendant, 7/8" x 7/8"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.0 grams.

Art nouveau 14K gold and enamel circle pin in the form of stylized orchid blossoms enameled in iridescent lavender and cream. This pin is a nice example of how Art Nouveau sensibilities took a standard Victorian design=--the circle pin--and gave it a new aesthetic appeal. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin with a daisy and foliage enameled in translucent shades of green, yellow, rose and white enamel. The center of the blossom is set with a seed pearl. The flower is enclosed within a swirling gold frame. Flower pins of this sort were often used to convey sentiments from the "language of flowers." In this case, the daisy represents "innocence." The back retains its original watch hook, pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: overall excellent; two minute enamel nicks on the daisy's petals visible only under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-9/32" x 7/8". Weight: 3.8 gr.

A lovely 14K yellow gold flower pin enameled in elegant shades of lilac and cream by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The five petals are nicely undulating around a central pearl, and a gold stem peaks out at the bottom. The back is stamped with Bippart's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: good; a few expert touch-ups along the edges. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 7.5 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A classic Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small ruby. In Victorian flower language, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as this were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: very good; a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal; the pinstem is an early gold-filled replacement
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 3/4"
• Weight: 2.5 grams.