Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (163)

A very good example of a mid-20th century pearl and jade cluster ring by Ming's of Honolulu. Wook Moon opened his shop in 1940 and specialized in creating interesting designs that combined traditional Hawaiian motifs and gems popular in the South Pacific and Asian communities. This cluster ring features are green, black, white, yellow and red jade spheres nestled among ivory-colored pearls. The jade has good translucency and the pearls have very attractive luster, smooth surfaces and distinct gold overtones. Most rings by Ming's had gold leaves interspersed among the gems, but this example is particularly attractive because there are no leaves--just 22 colored spheres tightly packed into a very large cluster. The back of the ring is constructed with a double shank to provide more stability. The setting is entirely handmade and is stamped "Ming's" and "14K".

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4 x 1-1/8". Weight: 14.7 grams.

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets from the "Cometes" line by Chanel Haute Joaillerie. The bracelets are designed as simple band of channel-set brilliant round diamonds punctuated at regular intervals with 5-armed stars, each bead-set with a brilliant round diamond. Though the bracelets appear to be solid, each of the sections is hinged at the star, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The clasps are hidden beneath one of the stars. Each bracelet comprises 72 diamonds of exceptional quality, with F/G color and VVS clarity. The total carat weight of each bracelet is approximately 3.5 carats. Each bracelet is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Chanel." Each is also marked with its unique serial number.

Chanel's fine jewelry is sold in only a few of the company's major boutiques (Paris, New York, etc.) and is never sold at any other retailer. These bracelets are accompanied by a letter on Chanel's letterhead dated May 6, 2009 indicating a replacement value of $19,700 each. The letter includes the information that the bracelets were originally purchased from the New York boutique in 2007 and the serial numbers noted in the letter match those on the bracelets.

Stars were one of Coco Chanel's favorite motifs and she used them in the very first piece of fine jewelry she designed for herself in 1932. Chanel launched its fine jewelry collection in 2003 with the "Cometes" line which uses five-armed stars in endless varieties.

Origin: France, 2007. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: interior opening, 2-3/16" x 1-3/4"; width, 5/16", interior circumference, 6-3/16". Weight: pair, 48.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.00 carats (pair).

NOTE: Though they look wonderful worn together, we will consider selling the bracelets separately.

An elegant and exceptionally high quality pair of earclips in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires by A Péry et Cie. The earrings feature fields of pave-set round brilliant diamonds bisected by bands of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The diamonds are E color and VS2 clarity; the sapphires are medium-dark strong blue (B6/5) color and eye-clean clarity. Each earring is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and is signed by A. Péry et Cie. The clips have holes, so posts could be added without disrupting the integrity of the earrings.

Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A classic pair of heavy 18K yellow gold earrings by Gucci. The earrings are in a triangular shape with gently rounded corners and are worked in an open basketweave pattern. The design incorporates both matte and polished surfaces to create a greater sense of depth. The earrings retain their original Omega clips, but the posts could easily be removed for wear as earclips. Each earring is marked 18K and is signed “Gucci”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 17.9 grams.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.

An elegant vintage 14K yellow gold and pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The stylized feather design is typical of Mikimoto’s vintage pieces and is particularly suitable for daytime wear. The pearls, ranging in size to 5.5 to 7.2 millimeters, have ivory body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The quality is estimated at A+1. The back of the pin is marked “K14” and bears the Mikimoto oyster shell hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 10.5 grams.

Beautiful 14K yellow gold and cultured pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The swirling gold frame is punctuated with very high quality pearls post-set pearls and can be worn either horizontally or vertically. The pearls have superb lustre and Mikimoto's classic ivory color with rose overtones. The sizes range from 5 to 7mm. The back is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 10.0 grams.

A classic pearl and diamond ring by Mikimoto. A single 8.4 millimeter pearl is set at the center of the ring and is surrounded by small round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearl is of very fine quality, estimated at AA. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The surface is smooth and lustrous. The diamonds are of equally fine quality. Typically, Mikimoto uses diamonds in the F-G color range with VVS clarity. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and “K18”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Crown Size: 1/2" X 1/2" X 7/16” high. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

Lovely signed Mikimoto flower-form brooch in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. The flower petals are made up of very fine quality 6-6.5mm pearls, estimated at AA. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. The body color is white with green/rose overtones. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and the gold content.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: mint. Size: 2-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

Elegant 14K yellow gold and pearl brooch in a modern bouquet design. The four pearl "flowers" are set atop golden stems that are tied with a swirling gold ribbon. Each pearl is 5.5 mm and has the wonderful white body color with silvery overtones characteristic if Mikimoto pearls. The nacre is thick and the skins are very smooth. The back is marked with Mikimoto's hallmark and "K14".

Origin: Japan, circa 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.0 grams.

A colorful pair of 14K yellow gold earrings by popular New York jewelry designer Sonia Bitton, whose collections have been sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The earrings feature round cut amethysts, citrines, peridots, blue zircons, pink tourmalines and garnets, each set in a movable bezel. When being worn, the bezels move freely on their framework, allowing the gems to shimmer. The back are signed “Sonia B” and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, .8 ct; amethyst, .8 ct; zircon, .7 ct; tourmaline, .5 ct; peridot, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.

A nice vintage tie bar in a bamboo pattern by Tiffany & Co. The bar is worked in 14K yellow gold, and each end features a blue sapphire cabochon collet set in platinum. The small amount of platinum contrasts nicely with the deep blue of the sapphires. The bamboo design was reworked in the 1960's and became one of Tiffany's most successful sterling silver flatware designs. Its use in jewelry, however, is uncommon. The relatively short length works perfectly with the narrow width of today's ties. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-15/16" long. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A classic 1960's Tiffany & Co. stylized floral brooch in 18K yellow gold set with sapphires and diamonds. The cluster of four blossoms are heavily decorated with hammered and carved details accented with clusters of round brilliant cut diamonds and blue sapphires. Though the brooch is bold, the spikiness of the design keeps the overall design from feeling too massive. The diamonds are I color, SI1 clarity and the sapphires are medium, vivid blue color. The back is marked "18K Tiffany & Co."

• Origin: America, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1- 3/4"
• Weight 21.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .59 carat; diamond, .12 carat.