Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Edwardian (67)

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

A wonderful late Victorian 14K yellow gold animal pin in the form of an English bulldog. The details are finely worked right down to the studded dog collar. The back is marked 14K and retains the original pinstem and clasp. A small folding bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original; sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 11/16". Weight: 6.2 gr.

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with ornate engine-turned engraving in a sunburst pattern with laurel leaf borders. The front cover is centered with a blue sapphire cabochon with rich coloring. The locket’s back cover is more simply decorated with engine-turned stripes. Even the interior edges, which are hidden from view, are engraved in a foliate pattern. The locket is suspended from its original laurel leaf jump ring that matches the border of the front cover. The interior retains both of the original portrait frames. The overall style is typical of French or Russian jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-3/16” diameter (excluding jump ring). Approximate Sapphire Weight: .24 cts. Weight: 10.3 gr.

An extraordinary and rare 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet by Krementz adorned with enameled white and pale blue forget-me-nots. Krementz made some of the best Art Nouveau enameled jewelry, and continued producing enamels well into the 20th century. Blue and white forget-me-nots, a particularly popular motif in the early 1900s, frequently appeared in small pins and pendants. This piece, however, is the first bangle bracelet we've seen. Bangle bracelets are notoriously subject to damage and it is amazing that the enamel on this bracelet has survived in mint condition. The enameled flowers are accented with engraved foliage and a stippled background. The interior is hallmarked by Krementz and is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1905.

Condition: Enamel is mint, some scratches on the inside of the gold band.

Size: 1/4" wide; opening, 2-9/16" x 2-1/4"; interior circumference, 7-7/16".

Weight: 9.0 grams.

14K gold ring featuring a detailed portrait of a Native American wearing a feathered headdress. The portrait is surrounded by a twisted rope border. Originally an Edwardian bar pin, the ring has been fashioned with the original pin's scrolled ends connecting to the medallion. The reverse is marked "585 Pr FSH" for 14K gold.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: crown, 13/16" diamter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/2.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

A delightful enameled 18K gold love/friendship charm or pendant by Georg Adam Scheid, jeweler to the Imperial Hapsburg Court in Vienna. The rooster is carefully engraved into the gold surface and then filled with translucent enamels in shades of orange, green and yellow. The edge is enameled in black with the French phrase, "Quand ce coq chantera, mon amitié finira. (When this rooster crows, my friendship will end.)" Obviously, the gold and enamel rooster will never crow, so the friendship will never end! The pendant/charm is stamped with Scheid's hallmark, the city mark for Vienna and French import marks for 18K.

Georg Adam Scheid (sometimes listed as Georg Anton Scheid) was active 1882-1911. He was particularly noted for his enamel work and became a favored gold- and silversmith to the Imperial Family. Scheid's pieces in gold are far rarer that his silver items.

• Origin: Austria, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 9/16" (14 mm) diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 2.0 grams

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with a bright royal blue sapphire surrounded by a sparkling halo of rose cut diamonds. The edge of the design is finished with delicate pierced gallery. The crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 13/32" (10mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .14 ct; sapphire .28 ct.

A classic late Victorian 14K yellow gold curb link chain bracelet with collet-set oval amethyst stations. The amethysts have nicely saturated violet color. Marked 14K.

• America, circa 1900
• 9 1/2" long
• Excellent condition
• 6.75 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.66 carats