Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period (171)

A particularly attractive large Italian 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four large blue chalcedony oval cabochons. The use chalcedony is rather unusual in these pendant/charms and the rich blue color is especially nice against the gold. NOTE: The blue in the photos are more intense than the actual subtle violet-blue color of the stones. The gold surfaces are enhanced with applied rosettes, beading and twisted wire decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-1/2". Weight: 11.7 gr.

A fine large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob, bracelet charm or pendant set with oval amethysts and pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very good, even coloring in an appealing medium-violet shade. The pearls have nice luster and rosy overtones that compliment the color of the amethysts. The bail is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail). Weight: 18.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 20.5 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet in the Edwardian style, set with a row of fifteen well-matched oval brilliant cut blue sapphires in graduated sizes, flanked at either end with small rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have very nice medium-tone violetish-blue coloring with very good clarity. There are no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is stamped with Italian hallmarks in use 1944-1968.

Origin: Alessandria, Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/32" wide; 6-1/2" circumference. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphhire, 4.35 cts; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 17.6 gr.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

A rare large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medaille d'amour") enclosed in a halo of bright red rubies. The medal has a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow"), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with five single-cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with two rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed with "A. Augis", in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a scalloped frame set with brilliant round cut synthetic rubies. The fairly large size is perfect to be worn as a necklace, but could also be worn on a very chunky charm bracelet. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with Augis' signature and marker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no engraving on reverse. Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 ct; synthetic ruby, 3.08 cts. Weight: 9.9 gr.

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A particularly fine gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

A large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts intense violet coloring and excellent clarity. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complement the color of the amethysts. Marked “Italy 18K.”

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 21.3 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 16.26 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A wonderfully detailed 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a spaniel. The shape of the dog’s head and the amount of fur suggests that the pin represents a Springer or English Cocker spaniel. The pin has substantial weight. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, circa 1935.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 6.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.

An elegant 18k yellow gold ring featuring an oval brilliant cut aquamarine accented at compass points with folds of gold nestling small round brilliant diamonds. The aquamarine has medium light pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The cut is very good with excellent brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped “18K.”

• America, circa 1960.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4 x 11/16” (20 x 17 mm).
• Weight: 6.2 grams.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 7.21 carats; diamond, .05 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, in a streamlined modern style with a hidden bail, is in one of the rarest versions. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ signature and maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent; the marks on the bottom edge of the pendant in the first and second photos are lighting reflections only.
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 4.4 gr.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

For anniversary jewelry, there's nothing more romantic than this rare 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love token (“medaille d’amour”) ring with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a single-cut diamond, and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. Augis rings are far rarer than pendants and charms.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The ring is signed “A. Augis,” and is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide.
• Weight: 5.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; synthetic ruby, .12 carat.

A muscular dressage horse leaps through a gold ring in this handsome French 18K gold equestrian pendant or charm. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 3.9 grams.