Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian (269)

An elegant pair of long 18K gold earrings enhanced with floral shaded enamel plaques. The gold surfaces are intricately engraved to add a bit of sparkle. The earrings have nice movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1840
• Dimensions: 2-9/16" long from top of earwire
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced earwires
• Weight: 8.3 grams

A large friendship token pendant or charm featuring a hand holding a gem-set bouquet. The design is presented against a stippled background outlined with an engraved border. The bouquet is set with a cabochon ruby, an emerald cut emerald and a brilliant cut sapphire. Jewelry featuring a hand and flower motif were usually given as tokens of affection or friendship in the Victorian era. The back is stamped “18K.”

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .08 carat; emerald, .05 carat; sapphire, .05 carat.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.

This delightful Victorian Art Nouveau pendant and pin features a four-leaf clover nestled inside a crescent moon, both set with seed pearls. The clover is centered with a .2-carat old European cut diamond. The combination of a flower and a crescent in Victorian jewelry was intended to convey the sentiment "honeymoon" and they were often a gift from a groom to his new bride. The four-leaf clover, of course, conveyed good luck. The reverse retains the original folding bail and a pin that's hidden from view, so the piece can be worn in multiple ways. The clasp is marked "10K."

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; all original
• Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat
• 4.1 grams.

A nice quality and heavy 18K gold watch key enhanced with black enamel and seed pearls suspending a pair of foxtail chain tassels and a dog clip clasp. This was originally the cross bar and fob attachments for a Victorian watch chain. With the entire assembly attached to a necklace using the existing jump ring, the key and and tassels would make stunning "charms" and another charm of your choice could be attached to the dog clip. This last charm could be changed up depending on your mood! Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: watch key, 1 1/2" long; longer tassel, 1 11/16"
• Weight: 7.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A wonderful Victorian 18K gold and jet watch chain that has been converted to a bracelet. The bracelet comprises variously-shaped baton and spherical beads. The original carved spherical watch fob and the crossbar dangle freely from the bracelet. The watch fob is carved in a stylized foliate pattern against a matte background. The spring ring is stamped "14K"; other elements are tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Era: ca. 1890
• Length: 7 3/8" (easily extended, if needed, with additional gold links).
• Condition: very good; one of the long beads has a 1/8" flake at one end and another long bead has a 1/16" flake at one end, but neither are easily visible without very close inspection.

A fine pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from surmounts enhanced with foliate engraving, black taille d'epargne enameled borders and Etruscan ropetwist "ram's horns". The foxtail chains terminate in small gold balls. The earrings are a bit longer than most tassels and have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1880
• LENGTH 2 3/8" from tops of wires
• WEIGHT 12.3 grams
• CONDITION excellent; new 14K wires

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold comet pin worked in the Etruscan Revival style. The pin is decorated with ornate granulated rosettes and ropetwist motifs surrounding a single square Persian turquoise cabochon set at the comet's nucleus. The gold surfaces are bloomed for a soft sheen. Tested and guaranteed 14K.The pin was likely produced to commemorate the appearance of Halley's Comet in 1835.

• Origin: America, ca. 1835.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" long.
• Weight: 4.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no dings or missing decorative elements.

A fine Victorian 14K gold mesh and onyx cameo bracelet. The center cameo depicts a classical youth flanked by four maidens, all in Greek or Roman attire. The cameos are nicely carved with good detail. The clasp is concealed by the male cameo. A heavy gold mesh makes up the remainder of the bracelet. The gold has a slight rose tint that contrasts nicely with the black and white of the cameos. The tongue of the clasp is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 7 5/8" long; 13/16" wide.
• Weight: 34.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to cameos; all original except the safety chain added at a later date (easily removed).

An elegant French 18K yellow gold 22" chain enhanced with randomly-spaced small semi-baroque pearls set at irregular lengths and finished with a bulldog swivel clip perfect for hanging interchangeable charms or pendants (as shown for illustration purposes). The pendant is being sold separately. It is item number 1405532 in our catalog. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Length: 22".
• Weight: 12.7 grams.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold fancy watch chain featuring large links that we’d now call “Gucci links” in rose gold, alternating with smaller connector links in a slightly more yellow shade. Each of the large links is pierced with a star motif and the edges are enhanced with a fluted and ribbed pattern. The smaller links are chased in a floral pattern. The chain is finished with a ring and t-bar closure. The chain has a very substantial, “chunky” appearance, but is of moderate weight and comfortable for regular wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
• Weight: 38.4 grams.

A very finely-made Victorian memorial ring worked in 18K yellow gold and plaited hair. The ring is designed as belt, ornately decorated with open navette- and trefoil-shaped reserves, each showing the loved one’s hair. The gold surfaces are nicely engraved, and the whole is finished off with an ornate buckle centered with a escutcheon engraved with the initials “MW”. In Victorian symbology, the belt represented not only eternal love, but also strength and protection. A ring such as this, tightly surrounding the finger, would be an ever-present reminder. Buckle rings, even those with hair panels, were not always for mourning, but rather sentimental pieces. Since the band is not engraved with a name or death date in the interior, it’s quite likely that this ring was intended as a romantic symbol. The interior of the band is stamped with 18K gold marks for Chester in the year 1883. Rings of this type are much more common in lower purity gold such as 9K or 12K.

• Origin: Chester, England, 1883.
• Dimensions: band, 8/32” wide; buckle, 10/32” wide.
• Finger Size: 9-1/2.
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; hair is perfect.

A dainty Victorian pendant or bracelet charm designed as a spray of flowers against a woven background. The flowers are worked in rose and green gold, while the background is in yellow gold. A pendant of this size could easily be worn on a charm bracelet but would look even lovelier on a simple gold chain. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1850.
• Dimensions: 11/16” corner-to-corner.
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings, the tops enhanced with bands of black taille d'epargne enamel and small natural pearls. The foxtail chains terminate in small balls. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; new 18K wires.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" long from tops of wires.
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

An elegant late Victorian or early Edwardian 14K yellow gold long chain with opal double-cabochon stations at regular intervals. The stations are carefully arranged so that the opals are alternately spaced whether the necklace is worn at full-length or doubled. The clasp can also be used to suspend a pendant. The opals are good quality with even play-of-color, mostly in the blue/green range with occasional bursts of orange/red. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; one opal has minor crazing to the back surface.
• Length, 52-1/2" plus the pendant clasp as a single strand; 27" as a double strand; opals, 8mm diameter.
• Weight: 16.8 grams.

A lovely Victorian pendant/pin in a snowflake pattern. The 14K yellow mounting is set with seed pearls and sapphires around the central old mine cut diamond. The design is very elegant and delicate. The back retains the original pinstem/clasp and pendant loop. Marked 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: one pearl deficient; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 3.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .18 carat; diamond, .03 carat.

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Smaller earrings, "dormeuses" ("sleepers") were worn to keep the piercings open while awaiting the inevitable return of grander styles. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1855.
• Condition: very good, all original, a minor repair to one earwire.
• Dimensions: 3/8" x 9/16" (from top of earwire).
• Weight: 2.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .38 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 47” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with rope-twist and beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; original clasp replaced with a more secure lobster claw clasp.
• Length: 47”.
• Weight: 34.3 grams.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 45” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. In fact, the chain has an ingenious clasp that holds the necklace at just the right staggered length (21” and 25”)when doubled. The chain can be worn doubled, or at full length by releasing one of the clasps. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Length: 45”.
• Weight: 34.6 grams.

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

This exquisite French Victorian pendant/brooch features a fine onyx cameo depicting a fairy-winged woodland nymph, her translucent gown pulled aside to expose her breasts, dancing and tossing boughs of flowers. The cameo is surrounded by an ornate shield-shaped border of rose-cut diamonds and a single natural pearl set in silver over 18K gold. The diamonds are of very good quality with excellent brilliance and clarity. The bale can be detached for wear as a brooch, or the pinstem and clasp can be removed for wear as a pendant. There was once also a removable drop element—probably a pear-shaped pearl at the bottom. The jewel is stamped with French gold and silver marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

Nymphs protected the natural environment in the specific areas where they lived such as rivers, woodlands, lakes, mountains and meadows. They often hung around with fun-loving full-fledged immortals such as Dionysos and Artemis. The beauty and allure of Greek nymphs was such that they could seduce Gods and mortals at will, often becoming mothers to great heroes such as Achilles. They were said to cause "nympholepsy" that incapacitated men with passionate frenzies, especially around noontime.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original; pearl drop element lacking.
• Dimensions: 1-9/16" x 1-15/16" (2-9/16" with bail).
• Weight: 23.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.03 carats.

A pretty late Victorian 10K gold locket, the front decorated with a colorful champleve and painted enamel image of a thistle blossom. In Victorian flower language, the thistle represented the sentiment "meddling is unwelcome." One can imagine a rebellious young woman using it to hide the image of a suitor of whom her parents don't quite approve! And of course, the thistle is the emblem of Scotland. The cover opens by pressing on the bail, a mechanism we've never seen before. The interior is stamped 10Ct.

• Origin: probably England, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 13/16" (20 mm) diameter.
• Condition: a small area of missing enamel at the tip of one leaf and a tiny flake at the corner of the thistle blossom (neither are immediately noticeable); a few dimples on the back.
• Weight: 4.1 grams.

An elegant pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with Mediterranean coral. The engraved mountings are set with coral bars and an applied vine motif. The drops can be removed from the surmounts for a more restrained appearance for daytime wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

A superb pair of Victorian 12K gold articulated earrings set with Whitby jet. The long triangular elements are suspended from inverted double teardrop-shaped surmounts, and support cone-shaped jet drops. The cutting of the jet has a very angular, almost modernist appearance. The earrings hang from new 14K shepherd's hooks and have wonderful movement. The settings are tested and guaranteed 12K.

• Origin: England, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 2-3/16" long from top of the earwire.
• Weight: 3.5 grams.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

A fine French Victorian 18K gold and shaded enamel pin featuring an image of Raphael's "Madonna della Seggiola". The enamel scene of Mary, Jesus and John the Baptist is beautifully executed with great attention to detail. The gold background is stippled for added texture and a little sparkle. The reverse retains the original pinstem and clasp, both marked with French 18K stamps. There is also a partially visible maker's mark. This piece could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.75 grams

A stunning mid-19th century brooch featuring a pansy, the lower petals set with rose cut diamonds and the upper petals with buff-cut amethysts of a deep violet hue. The colorful flower is simply presented against a plain gold background. In Victorian flower language, the pansy represented the sentiment "Think of me" and jewels with pansies were often given as love tokens or going away gifts. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the back. The original clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .36 carat; amethyst, 4.5 carats.

A very rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch in the form of the Princes of Wales’ feathers set with Scottish jasper and bloodstone. The feathers are joined with a crown and a banner with the Prince’s motto “Ich Dien.” The gold surfaces are ornately engraved. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891, the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s eldest son's investiture as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s extraordinarily long life, he was the first prince to mark a half-century in that position. Upon his succession, he ruled as Edward VII. Scottish agate jewelry was rarely set in gold, and this is one of the finest examples we’ve seen. The back is stamped with the registry (patent) number. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, 1891.
• Condition: excellent; no stone damage or wear to gold; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

A spectacular example of Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival jewelry from the period 1876-1918, this necklace features a central pendant drop in the form of a leaping stag suspended by pearl-enhanced chains from a neckchain of sapphire- and ruby-set plaques. The necklace is enameled throughout in shades of opaque white and black, and translucent green, red and purple. The stag is decorated with realistic shaded brown and gold enamels. The stag is set with a sapphire- and ruby-encrusted saddle. The neckchain has alternating wing-shaped plaques set with rubies and decorated green and white enamels, and buckle-shaped plaques set with oval sapphires enhanced with red and white enamels. The backs of the pendant and chain are also enameled. Exposed areas of silver are lightly engraved.

• Origin: Austria-Hungary (likely Vienna), ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original; only the faintest of wear to enamels on the high points of the stag (visible under magnification).
• Dimensions: necklace length, 15-1/2"; pendant, 1-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long (including the pearl chains).
• Weight: 29.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.03 carats; ruby, 1.58 carats.

A beautifully-carved hardstone cameo depicting Libertas, the Roman goddess of liberty. She can be identified from the shape of the diadem she wears in her hair. The image is quite similar to American "Morgan" silver dollars from the late 19th century. The color contrast of the stone is quite remarkable. The carnelian cameo is set into an intricate gold setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The back has both a brooch fitting and a hidden bail for wear as a pendant. The back is stamped "14K" and also has the maker's mark for Perley Bros.

NOTE: The piece is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no cameo damage.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-3/16".
• Weight: 6.8 grams. Fabulous late Victorian hardstone cameo brooch. The carnelian cameo represents "Liberty" and is very similar to the Liberty head that appeared on "Morgan" silver dollars and quarters of the period. The 14K mounting is floridly decorated with millegraining, applied beads and rosettes, and rope twist borders. The reverse retains its original pinstem and modified c-clasp. The reverse is marked 14K and is signed for the maker, Perley Bros. of New York. Origin: America, 1870s. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/4".

A handsome Victorian gentleman's ring in a substantial 14K gold setting. The ring features a masculine brown smoky quartz with flashes of goldish-orange brilliance. The setting is enhanced with ornate strapwork against a stippled background. The setting holds the stone well above the finger and the overall look is very weighty. The interior of the shank is stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Finger Size: 10-1/4.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" wide at back of shank.
• Weight: 13.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.44 carats.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings, the tops enhanced with applied green and rose gold flowers surrounding collet-set rubies. The foxtail chains terminate in small balls. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn, and the small rubies add a subtle shot of color. Each is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; converted to earrings with the addition of 18K wires.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" long from tops of wires.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .10 carat.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

A pair of fine shakudo ornaments originally mounted in Victorian times as a pair of cuff buttons, and then re-imagined by our jeweler as an elegant split-chain pendant necklace. The two plaques feature a court lady and gentleman in Meiji-period costume. After the collapse of the feudal Samurai system in Imperial Japan, Europeans collected old sword and armor fittings such as these to set as jewelry. The mountings and chain are 14K.

• Japan, ca 1890.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail and finish.
• Dimensions: each plaque, 15/16" x 13/32"; total pendant length, 2"; total necklace length, 18-1/2".
• 13.8 grams.

A delightful 14K gold frog with emerald eyes sits atop a simple band in this witty stickpin conversion ring. The gold is beautifully stippled for a realistic appearance that sets off the bright green eyes. Frogs in Victorian jewelry often symbolized fertility. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca 1900.
Excellent condition, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: frog, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Size 6 1/4.
• Weight: 2.2 grams.

Beautiful purplish rhodolite garnets sparkle from the engraved tops of these earrings with foxtail tassels. Each tassel terminates in a small golden ball. These tassels have substantial weight and are unusual for having gemstones set at the top. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 7.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.72 carats.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.

Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".

Finger Size: 7 1/4.

A striking 14K gold peridot ring converted from a Victorian stickpin. The oval brilliant cut peridot has superb intense green coloring and is bezel-set in a elegantly-engraved gold collar. The ring has a 14K gold shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: converted from a Victorian stickpin; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 2.16 carat.

A fine green-toned cat's eye chrysoberyl cabochon surrounded by delicate scalloped border set with seed pearls centers this Victorian stickpin conversion ring. The stone displays excellent chatoyancy, with a clear milky white streak down the center of the stone that seems to "wink" as it is rocked from side to side. The surrounding pearls pick up the creamy color of the eye. The setting is 18K gold attached to a 14K shank.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: converted to a ring; no chips or scratches to stone.
• Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 5/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.6 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.24 carat.

The knot motif in Victorian jewelry signifies the unending bonds of love, so there could be no more fitting design for this exquisitely-made 18K yellow gold hair locket/brooch. The gold surface is ornately chased to suggest the texture of rope. A large cabochon amethyst enhanced with a star-set pearl centers the jewel. The brooch is finished with a pair of foxtail tassels. The back of the brooch has a glass-covered compartment with its original hair memorial. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of two bails at the top. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Presented in the original fitted case.

• Origin:probably England, ca 1840.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/2 x 2-3/4".
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.34 carats.

This substantial Victorian 14K gold chain can be worn alone as a statement piece or be used to suspend a heavy locket or pendant. Each link is reeded to add extra texture and shine. The links are open so the chain can be used to suspend a series of charms, if desired. The chain is completed with a spring ring clasp. The clasp is marked "14K" and the chain is tested and guaranteed 14K, as well.

• America, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• 22 3/4" long.
• 16.4 grams.

An elegant love knot pendant in 18K gold and platinum set with rose cut diamonds and a ruby at the center. The gold surface has a matte finish typical of French jewelry at the end of the 19th century. The pendant was originally a scarf clip and still retains the clip mechanism. A double bail allows it to be worn as a pendant. The bail's surface finish matches the rest of the knot, and the maker's marks are applied to the bail rather than to the body of the clip, suggesting that the double bail is original to the piece. NOTE: The chain is shown only for display purposes.

• France, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; original finish; no dings.
• 11/16" diameter (excluding bail).
• 2.8 grams.

Centered with an intensely violet amethyst, this Victorian pendant will add a pop of rich color to any wardrobe. The gold setting in a fleur-de-lis pattern is adorned with natural seed pearls that contrast beautifully with the intense color and brilliance of the large amethyst. This piece was originally a brooch, but now has new life as a wearable pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1890.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 6.3 grams.
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 10.25 carats.

A very nice 32nd Degree Masonic fob in the form of a double-headed eagle. The bird grasps a platinum saber in its talons. The heads are crowned with a triangular emblem with enameled decoration, which then leads to a short fob chain and a buttonhole bar. The triangular emblem is hinged so that the eagle always hangs nicely. The detailing of the bird’s feathers, the hilt of the sword, etc. is superb. The bale is stamped 14K and bears the hallmarks of J.J. Sommer & Co.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: overall length, 2-9/16”; eagle, 1-3/16” x 7/8.
• Weight: 7.9 grams.

A Victorian 14K yellow gold and coral pendant necklace in the Etruscan Revival taste. The central plaque is enhanced with a pair of natural color coral beads and suspends torpedo drops and a chain swag. The plaque was originally a brooch, but it has been given new life as an elegant necklace! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, circa 1860,
• Condition: Excellent.
• Dimensions: overall length, 17"; pendant, 1" x 1.5".
• Weight: 5.2 grams.

A lovely Victorian pendant in 10K yellow gold set with a round brilliant cut amethyst at the center, surrounded by seed pearls in an ornate starburst pattern. The rays of the star are separated by fleurs-de-lys. The amethyst has nice medium violet color with reddish overtones. The pendant also has a pinstem so that the piece can be worn as an elegant brooch. Tested and guaranteed 10K. NOTE: The chain is not included in the purchase price, but we do have chains available.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter.
• Weight: 3.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .28 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely Victorian ring featuring a center red spinel flanked by a pair of oval blue spinels, all bordered in old European cut diamonds. The gemstones are intensely colored with excellent clarity. The ring likely dates to around 1876, when jewelry in patriotic colors enjoyed a resurgence for the American Centennial. Tested and guaranteed 14K. This ring would make a stunning and unique engagement ring!

• Origin: America, ca. 1876.
• Finger Size: 5.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 1/2".
• Weight: 2.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: red spinel, .58 carat; blue spinel, .53 carat; diamond, .20 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A very fine 14K gold stickpin in the form of a horse's head by Sloan & Co. They eye is set with a small ruby cabochon. The horse is entirely three-dimensional, worked with as much detail on the back as the front. The stick pin can easily be converted to a pendant or ring. The base of the neck is stamped with Sloan's 14K gold mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: head, 7/8" 5/8"; overall length, 2 15/16".
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted and ropetwist links in 14K gold. The fluted links enhances the reflections in the gold, so they offer a more reflective quality that contrasts nicely with the ropetwist links. The chain is substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a quite large pendant or locket, and the links are open enough that they can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 21” long.
• Weight: 29.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted double links in 14K gold. The fluted shape of the links enhances the reflections in the gold, so the chain has a certain sparkly quality. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28.5” long.
• Weight: 14.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A classic Victorian double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking double links in 14K gold. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28” long.
• Weight: 18.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A fine Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob pendant featuring a 23.5-carat oval brilliant cut amethyst nested in the coiled tail and wings of a ferocious dragon. The tail and wings are very nicely detailed with scales and feathers. The dragon's neck forms the bail from which the pendant would hang. The amethyst has very nice even coloring, eye-clean clarity and good cut. Jewels featuring mythological creatures became popular in Paris around 1870 and the craze then spread to England and America. Being worked in 14K gold (tested and guaranteed), this example is certainly American.

• America, ca. 1875
• Very good condition; sharp detail to gold work; minor wear abrasions to facet junctions (mostly along the keel at the back of the stone) on the amethyst consistent with age
• 1-3/16" x 1-1/4"
• 10.79 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 23.5 carats

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of a pair of dolphin-like fish facing one another. The bodies are scaly and they have ornate flowing gills in the classical manner. The oval seal is engraved with a four-letter monogram and also T. E. Co. 1918. The fob retains its original reeded jump ring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1918. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Weight: 4.7 grams. Size: 1-5/8” x 1”.

A stunning Belle Epoque brooch in the form of a fern worked in silver-topped 18K gold and set with 89 rose cut diamonds. The curving shape and the delicacy of each individual diamond-set leaf gives the piece a lightness that is very attractive for wear with today's clothing styles. The pin could also easily be converted to a pendant by attaching a gold chain at either end. In the 19th language of flowers, fern conveyed the sentiment of "sincerity." The back is stamped with French 18K marks.

France, circa 1870

Excellent condition

1-3/8" x 2-7/16"

9.9 grams

Approximate total diamond weight: 1.33 carats

Extremely fine Victorian memorial ring in 18K yellow gold, the shoulders with glossy black taille d’epargne enamel and engraved foliate decoration. A shield-shaped black and white sardonyx cartouche crowns the ring and covers a hair compartment visible through the beveled rock crystal cover on the inside of the ring. The inside of the shank is engraved “Thomas Bland 1857 Obt 23 March 68 years” and the compartment holds a woven plaque of his gray hair. The back inside of the shank is fully hallmarked for Birmingham 1856-57, with the maker’s mark “TM”. This is certainly one of the finest memorial rings we’ve seen.

Origin: England, 1857. Condition: virtually mint. Size: 8-1/4. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

An outstanding Victorian multi-colored 14K gold watch fob worked in yellow, green and rose gold with platinum. The fob is fashioned as a bouquet of flowers bound together with a scalloped border. The flowers are expertly enhanced with engraved details. The trace link chain alternates between rose gold, green gold and platinum. The swivel is original and is marked "14K."

• America, circa 1890
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• charm, 5/8" diameter; 4-11/16" overall length
• 9.5 grams