Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Victorian (269)

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and crystal “porte-photo” (photo locket), the gold rim accented with small blue sapphires. The bail is attached to a screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand for access to the inside of the locket. Porte-photos were often used to display a “public” photo one side and a more private keepsake on the other. They’re usually very simple; a design of this type is uncommon. These pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter (excluding bail).

A fine shakudo stickpin mounted in 18K yellow gold enhanced with a ropetwist border. The shakudo plaque represents a geisha formally dressed in a gold-flowered kimono and with an elaborate hairdo complete with ribbons and blossoms. Shakudo elements such as these were transformed by European and American jewelers after the opening of Japan to Western trade in the 1850s. The mounting is 18K (tested and guaranteed) and the pinstem is 14K (marked).

Origin: Japan & America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 15/32”; overall length, 3”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An unusual combination of classic Victorian insect jewelry and the patriotic color combination popular around the time of the Centennial celebrations of 1876. The insect’s folded wings are set with pairs of rubies,sapphires and diamonds. The thorax is represented with a single bezel-set diamond and the eyes are small rubies. Neither the rubies nor sapphires have evidence of heat treatment. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 1.86 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .17 ct; ruby, .09 ct; sapphire, .07 ct.

An unusual and very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet. The front is decorated with cutwork in a wheat pattern enhanced with ropetwist borders in the Etruscan Revival style. The cutwork panel is worked in yellow gold while the bracelet’s outer borders are in a slightly rosier shade. The back panel is plain. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: all ropetwist intact; no damage to front panel; typical small dings on back panel. Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 6-1/4” interior circumference. Weight: 39.8 grams.

A nice pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings, open circles enclosing ball drops star-set with emerald-cut tourmalines. The circles are finished with a pierced and beaded border along the inside edges and a delicate ropetwist motif along the outside. One tourmaline is pale green and the other is bi-colored—mostly green but with some pinkish-red areas. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1870. Condition: very good, minor dings consistent with age (mostly on reverse side). Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-5/16” long (to top of wires). Weight: 4.4 grams.

A fine Victorian 14K gold fob locket, the front cover worked in a deeply three dimensional design of a rose gold owl perched on a green gold branch. The eyes are set with garnet cabochons. The back cover has an engraved shield design that was never monogrammed. The hinged bail is engraved in a complimentary design. The interior of the locket retains its original frame and glass insert.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-3/8" (not including jump ring). Weight: 13.7 grams.

A very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet worked in the form of interlaced knots, the center of each set with an old mine cut diamond. The diamonds are set in silver in the traditional manner of the 19th century. The stones have good J/K color and SI1 clarity. At 8-1/4" long the bracelet is very generously sized. The box clasp is marked "Waler 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Weight: 41.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A beautifully-designed Victorian ball locket enhanced with rose-cut diamonds. The two strap-like decorative elements on either side of the locket lift away, allowing the sphere to be unfolded into a locket accommodating six photos. The sphere is bisected by a band of rose-cut diamonds enhanced with engraving on either side. The original bail is set with rose-cut diamonds. As is typical of French jewels of the period, the diamonds are set in silver over the gold. Ball lockets with multiple panels are extremely rare, and this example is of particularly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A very fine Victorian festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold and set with variously cut amethysts and tiny seed pearls. The central element features two oval and one antique cushion cut amethysts suspending a large antique cushion cut amethyst flanked by a pair of pear-shaped drops and further suspending a more triangular pear-shaped drop. Each of the stones is set in an ornate ropetwist, beaded and scrolled setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The chain itself is handmade in an equally ornate style of s-scrolls and beading. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16.5” long; central element, 2.5” long. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 31.05 cts.

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold mesh watch fob suspending a nicely detailed 14K Egyptian Revival Sphinx seal. Mesh fobs are most frequently gold-filled, but this example is solid 14K. The fittings at either end are beautifully engraved in a foliate pattern. The Sphinx seal depicts the regal creature in its traditional pose with wings swept back against the leonine flanks. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no engraving on seal. Dimesions: overall length, 6-1/8"; seal, 1 x 3/4". Weight: 30.0 grams.

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

A very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold watch fob seal in the form of a seated hound dog. He (it's very obviously a male dog) is extremely well-detailed and is highlighted with a black enameled collar and cabochon ruby eyes. The carnelian seal was never engraved. This fob seal is a little larger than most and has an imposing presence. The fob is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" tall. Weight: 17.4 grams.

An outstanding Victorian Arts & Crafts long chain fashioned from a series of oval cut colored gemstones in graduating sizes, each bezel-set in 14K yellow gold and joined to one another with very delicate handmade gold links. The selection of stones includes amethyst, citrine, topaz, aquamarine, almandine garnet, hessonite grosularite garnet, pink tourmaline, green tourmaline, and smoky quartz. The chain is an amazing 78 inches (6-1/2 feet) long and can be worn draped around the neck at various lengths. Long chains without clasps and are difficult to wear around the wrist, but this example can be wound about ten times around the wrist for wear as a stunning bracelet. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 78 inches long. Weight: 31.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 94.6 cts.

A delightful Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a smoking monkey. The face is beautifully detailed and he grasps a small pearl at the edge of his mouth to represent a cigarette. The surface is highlighted with a slightly rust-colored bloomed finish. The back is stamped with the mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.9 gr.

An extremely rare and very fine Imperial Russian gold and diamond anchor brooch by Viktor (Victor) Aarne. The anchor is surmounted with the Imperial Russian crown and the cypher of Czar Nicholas II is superimposed over the stem of the anchor. The brooch is set throughout with old mine and rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver over gold, as was typical of Russian jewels of the period. The quality of piercing and millgraining indicate hand fabrication. Certain portions of the design, notably the crossbar of the anchor, the horizontal element of the cyrillic letter "N" and the numerals representing "II" are worked only in yellow gold as a contrast to the surrounding surfaces. THe principal diamonds average J color and SI1 clarity. A jewel of this quality, bearing the Imperial cypher, would certainly have been given as a gift by the Imperial family. The pinstem is marked for 56 zlotniks (14K) and bears the workmaster's mark used by Johann Viktor ( Johan Victor) Aarne during his St. Petersburg period, 1891-1904.

Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

A fine 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover chased with an ornate scrolling pattern centering a large fleur-de-lis, itself set with an old European diamond. The diamond is well-cut and is graded as J color, SI1 clarity. The back cover has a period monogram "F to J". The interior retains both of the original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 5.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

A very good Victorian 18K gold watch fob worked with yellow, green and rose gold in an ornate rose pattern and mounted with an oval faceted citrine. The blossoms and foliage completely encircle the domed mounting decorated with stippled engraving. The fob hangs from an ornate foliate scroll. The gemstone in a fob such as this would often have been engraved with a monogram for use as a letter seal, but this citrine was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 8.0 cts.

A nice 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an ornate scene of two hunting hounds sniffing through tall grass for their prey. A picket fence can be seen in the background and then a sky lightly engraved with clouds and a sun or moon represented by a star-set old mine cut diamond. The back of the locket has a nice 3-letter monogram (“MAC”) original to the period. The interior retains its original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter, excluding bail. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

An important 19th century brooch of carved coral lilies nestled among 18K yellow gold chrysanthemum leaves set with old mine cut diamonds. The lily blossoms are fully three dimensional and are carved from the finest Mediterranean red coral, most likely harvested from the Italian coast near Naples. The heavily detailed gold leaves have a strong sculptural quality with undulating movement. Every surface is set with old mine cut diamonds of exceptional quality, averaging I/J color and SI clarity. Diamonds, collet-set and suspended from knife-edge mountings, also form the flowers' anthers. Diamonds are also set into portions of the stem that can't be seen from the front. Exposed areas of gold are delicately hand-engraved. The back of the brooch retains its original extended pinstem c-clasp. There is also a threaded aperture that was probably originally used to attach the brooch to a comb so it could be worn as a hair ornament. Tested and guaranteed at least 18K (it appears to be a little higher, perhaps 19-20K).

Origin: probably France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; one gold stem appears to have an old repair; no breaks in coral; no replacements. Dimensions: 3" x 3-5/8" x 1-1/8". Weight: 54.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 10.0 carats.

A terrific pair of earrings in the form of round shakudo plaques set in 14K yellow gold borders. Each of the matching Meiji-period discs features a Japanese immortal or scholar along with a fearsome dragon. Details of the dragon’s scales and fins and the man’s staff are picked out in gold and copper highlights. The gold borders are simply decorated with a ropetwist motif. The earwires are later additions. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter; 1-1/2” from top of wire.

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

A beautiful pair of tiger claw earrings mounted in 18K yellow gold filigree settings. Tiger claws were popular souvenirs of visits to India, especially after Queen Victoria took the title “Empress of India” in 1876. They were sometimes set into jewelry in England or America, and sometimes in India. These earrings are mounted in the traditional Indian style of ornate filigree work. The claws hang freely from a filigree rosette surmount. The gold is tested and guaranteed to be at least 18K, and is probably closer to 20K.

Origin: India, ca. 1880. Condition: very good; the ear wires are replacements, but the rosettes are original; one claw has light surface flaking typical of natural claws on the back side. Size: 2-5/16” long from top of wires. Weight: 7.0 grams.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to the state of California.

Exquisite and extraordinarily rare French Napoleon III 18K yellow gold and silver locket set with rose-cut diamonds and an en plein enamel plaque. The locket is essentially of geometric shield form relieved at the upper corners with finely chased applied clusters of roses and foliage, and at the bottom with an ornate volute. The shield form, flanked with two arches of rose cut diamonds set in silver, is suspended from a diamond-set urn motif in the Louis XVI style, and itself suspends a rose cut diamond in a pinched collet setting. The locket is very much in the style of the Parisian Belle Epoque master jeweler Eugene Fontenay and his enamelist Eugene Richet.

The front cover features an oval plaque decorated with an en plein enameled scene of two cherubs in a Watteau-like pose. One of the cherubs, however, is special. He has white feathered wings and a quiver of arrows. He represents Amor (aka Cupid or Eros), son of Venus (Aphrodite). He is commonly considered the god of love, but more accurately was the god of desire and erotic love.

The back cover features a beveled glass cover conforming to the shield form enclosing a bed of silk. The interior includes two glass-covered compartments. The bail is stamped with the "tete d'aigle" mark for 18K gold and bears an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: very fine; the glass of one interior compartment is cracked, but seems secure in its frame. Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.15 carats.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age and a small roughness of the edge of the crystal (not visible when inside the frame). Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.3 grams.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. They are usually round or oval; lozenge-shaped examples such as this are uncommon. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 6.0 grams.

A very pretty pair of Shakudo earrings in the form of partially folded fans. The dark metal surfaces are delicately enhanced with silver cranes amid gold plum blossoms, rocks and tree stumps. The crane was used in Japanese art to symbolize longevity. The fans are suspended from 18K rose gold wires. After the collapse of the feudal system in Japan, the artists who created elaborately decorated swords turned to jewelry as a way to express their creativity. Sometimes shakudo pieces were turned into jewelry with the addition of later mountings, but in this case the earring fittings appear to be original. It is also rather unusual for shakudo jewelry to have gold findings rather than silver.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: maximum width 11/16”; 1-11/16” long to top of earwire.

An outstanding Victorian lion's claw pendant mounted in 18K yellow god in the Etruscal Revival style. The mounting is covered with twisted rope, stippling and applied bead decoration, and is finished with a slightly matte surface. The quality of workmanship suggests the workshops of Rome as a likely place of origin. Lion's and tiger's claws were often brought back as souvenirs from hunting trips to Africa and India and were transformed into jewels. This claw is quite generously sized and is in very good condition, with a sharp point and no scaling. There is the natural splitting usually found on the inside of the curved edge. Tested and guaranteed 18K. French import hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: probably Italy, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8" (excluding remnants of chain) x 1-7/8". Weight: 9.1 gr.

NOTE: We will not ship this item outside the United States.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

An incredible Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of an 1880’s style oil derrick. The details are amazing, complete with a pump house, a suspended drilling bit inside the derrick and a collection vat. Even spare parts lie around on the base. The entire piece is completely handworked and was almost certainly a special order and was probably made shortly after the first commercial oil well was drilled in Pennsylvania around 1860. Figural fobs of this quality are extremely rare. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram on seal. Weight: 12.5 grams.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A handsome mid-Victorian Scottish agate pendant featuring pear-shaped cabochons of bloodstone ("heliotrope") and carnelian in a fine gold setting. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with fiolate engraving. Queen Victoria personally led the fashion for all things Scottish. Most jewels were set in silver; those set in gold were generally made in London using Scottish stones. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: Scotland/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, the piece was originally a brooch and the pinstem and clasp were removed and a bail added for wear as a pendant. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

A wonderful Victorian 18K gold acrostic gemstone brooch the shape of an artist's palette. The bright dabs of paint are indicated by a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond, the first letters of which spell out the sentiment "Regard". The gems are The design of the pin also includes paint brushes, a drafting instrument, and a hand rest, all tied together with a rag. The gold surfaces are enhanced with a softly bloomed "Russian finish" that was popular in the last decades of the 19th century. Details such as the bindings on the brushes, the lead in the drafting pencil and the pad of the hand rest are detailed in platinum. The gemstones are of fine quality, with bright color. This piece has great wit and the workmanship and detailing are superb. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Acrostic jewelry first became popular in early 19th century France and remained popular for decades. Gemstones were used to spell sentiments such as "regard", names, important dates, etc. Rings are, by far, the most common pieces of acrostic jewelry. Brooches are quite uncommon.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1895. Weight: 8.8 grams. Size: 2-5/8" x 3/4".

A very good Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the Art Nouveau taste. The top of the pin is in the shape of a horse’s head completed with beautiful enameling. The eye is set with a small round cut ruby. The head is superimposed over a gold horseshoe studded with small old European cut diamonds. The gemstones, though small, are very good quality and provide a nice amount of sparkle. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: overall length, 2-13/32”; head, 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams.

A pretty Victorian fob locket, the front cover decorated with a three-dimensional image of bird tending her nest of eggs, all worked in yellow, rose and green gold. The locket is attached to a swinging bail and would originally have been worn on either a fob chain or a chatelaine, rather than as a pendant. The hinged back cover is plain and was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, back cover has a few small dings commensurate with the locket’s age. Size: overall (excluding jump ring), 1-1/4” x 1”; locket only, 3/4” x 3/4”.

A fine 18K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in the Etruscan Revival taste. The bracelet comprises ten 7-mm gold beads ornately decorated in twisted wire- and bead-work. Two 8.5-mm beads flank the clasp. The beads are joined by trace link chains, the larger beads being separated at a greater distance from the others. The placement of the hallmarks on the chain segments indicates this is the original design of the bracelet and that it has not been altered. French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/2". Weight: 6.5 grams.

A wonderful Art Nouveau stickpin depicting a native American warrior chief in 14K yellow gold. The man’s beautifully detailed face is surrounded by long hair and a feather war bonnet, the band centered by a small bead-set old European cut diamond. A quiver of arrows is slung across the chest. The pin is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Size: head, 11/16” x 3/8”; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.8 grams.

A beautiful French silver-topped 18K yellow gold floral pin from the era of Emperor Napoleon III. The pin is designed as a spray of three flower buds, each just about to open into a different color. The flowers are bead-set with rose cut diamonds, and the colors are represented by rows of cushion and round cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each bud is centered by a larger rectangular cushion cut diamond set in prongs. A pair of diamond-set leaves and a small diamond-set bud appear below. The bottom of the sprig is also bead-set with diamonds. The top surfaces of the gold are covered in silver to heighten the appeal of the diamonds, in keeping with the mid-19th century practice. Realistic floral spray jewelry became very popular because of the extraordinary pieces commissioned by the Empress Eugenie from Bapst. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem (stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold).

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .981 carat; sapphire, .126 carat; ruby, .147 carat; emerald, .085 carat.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with a three-dimensional Scottish halberd (a medieval battle axe) applique set with rose cut diamonds and a Persian turquoise cabochon. The Scottish halberd was a distinctive sort of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century which eventually came to be associated with ceremonial use by the Scottish nobility. During Queen Victoria’s reign, everything Scottish became very popular, and ancient designs such as this appeared in fashionable jewelry. This is quite an unusual design for a locket and it very rare. The locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “LML” (?). Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A very fine Victorian 14K gold stickpin, the head set with a round hardstone cameo depicting a pheasant. The cameo is worked in banded white and brown agate. The carving shows a pheasant running along the ground amidst underbrush, and has superb detail. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, some waviness to pin shaft, no damage to cameo. Size: overall length, 2-13/16”; head, 13/16” diameter. Weight: 4.0 grams.

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

A very fine French Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold brooch set with diamonds, blue sapphires and demantoid garnets around a central sugarloaf cabochon 3.59-carat peridot. The demantoids exhibit the desirable horsetail inclusions characteristic of Russian stones. The combination of blue sapphires and the bright grassy green of the demantoids and peridot is very pleasing. All the smaller stones are old mine cuts. Six small rose-cut diamonds are collet-set in silver. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem which is fully stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold and with an illegible goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 19/32". Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 carat; sapphire, .4 carat; demantoid, .46 carat; peridot, 3.59 carats.

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

A pretty 18Kyellow gold pin in the shape of a salamander from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. Animal brooches were very popular in the mid-19th century, and reptiles were especially favored. The salamander has a long history in France, and was the personal symbol of King François whose rule began in the late 15th century. This example is beautifully engraved with delicate scales, claws, and eyes. The back is set with a line of alternating seed pearls and Persian turquoise cabochons. The head is set with a larger turquoise. The original clasp is marked with the “tête de cheval” hallmark used only outside Paris between 1838 and 1919.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/16” long. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold stickpin featuring an reverse-carved Essex crystal head depicting the blue and white striped burgee of the Larchmont Yacht Club. The crystal is well-carved, with bright coloring and no signs of water damage or separation. The crystal is finished with a mother-of-pearl background. The Larchmont Yacht Club dates from 1880 and remains one of America’s most exclusive yachting clubs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 1/2" diameter; overall length, 2-21/32”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

A wonderful and extremely rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch set with Scottish agate. The brooch is in the form of the 19th century Prince of Wales’ crown enclosing the traditional feathers in fleur-de-lys arrangement, over a banner with the legend “Ich Dien”. The feathers are set with jasper and bloodstone. The engraved decoration of the gold is first-rate. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891. In 1891, Queen Victoria’s eldest son, the future Edward VII, celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of his investitute as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s longevity, however, Edward was the first Prince of Wales to reach that mark. Agate jewelry set in gold is quite uncommon, and this is the only example we’ve found of this particular design. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, 1891. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A lovely and very unusual late Victorian circle brooch in 14K yellow gold, enhanced with pearl- and emerald-set flowers and enameled leaves. Each flower is represented by a cluster of six seed pearls centering a small old mind cut emerald. The flowers are set between pairs of leaves delicately enameled in translucent shades of green and yellow. One side of the pin is decorated only with a line of pearls, a nice assymetrical touch. The back retains the original extended pinstem, c-clasp and watch hook. Marked “14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A gorgeous 18K yellow gold circle brooch surrounding a spray of diamond flowers tied with a golden ribbon. The brooch dates to the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. One flower is centered with a .39-carat rose cut diamond and the other two are set with .17-carat old mine-cut diamonds. The remaining 31 diamonds in the brooch are a mix of rose-cuts, old mine-cuts and single-cuts. The stones are of particularly good quality for the period, with bright color and excellent clarity. The piece has considerably more sparkle than most French pieces of the era. The ribbon at the base is realistically engraved. The sides of the brooch have a very nicely-worked saw-pierced gallery. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, stamped with the "tete d'aigle" mark for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.97 carats.

A fascinating Victorian brooch set in 14K yellow gold. The octagonal plaque with canted corners appears to be made of opaque black glass and is inset with an ornate glass design worked in the pietra dura method. The translucent design is backed with gold foil to create a subtle glittery effect. The setting is very simple and does not detract from the more important enamel work. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Europe, possibly Switzerland, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original, very light surface scratching visible with a loupe. Size: 1-1/8" x 3/4".

A pretty Victorian stick pin, the head in the form of an enameled pansy centering a 1-point old mine-cut diamond. The petals are detailed in shades of white, lavender and black. The coloring is applied in a way that makes the petals look ruffled. In the Victorian language of flowers, the pansy represented remembrance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, there are some enamel imperfections at the edges of the petals that are original to the making. Size: head, 1/4" x 1/4"; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A very nice Victorian watch fob chain of woven hair accented with 14K yellow gold fittings. The weaving is very nicely done from hair in a soft chestnut color. The center of the chain features a paneled gold fitting from which is suspended a gold-mounted pendant drop with acorns and leaves. Hairwork jewelry was a cottage industry and was made both as memorial jewelry and as love tokens. Each end of the chain is finished with gold fittings, as well. A contemporary gold filled chain has been added to the back to transform the fob chain into an 18” long necklace.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 18” long (with extension); 12-1/2” long (without extension).