Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (984)

A pair of fine shakudo ornaments originally mounted in Victorian times as a pair of cuff buttons, and then re-imagined by our jeweler as an elegant split-chain pendant necklace. The two plaques feature a court lady and gentleman in Meiji-period costume. After the collapse of the feudal Samurai system in Imperial Japan, Europeans collected old sword and armor fittings such as these to set as jewelry. The mountings and chain are 14K.

• Japan, ca 1890.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail and finish.
• Dimensions: each plaque, 15/16" x 13/32"; total pendant length, 2"; total necklace length, 18-1/2".
• 13.8 grams.

A pretty Victorian 14K gold locket, the cover featuring a lion rampant with a shield. The edges of the locket are worked in an ornate rococo design that is mirrored on the large suspension ring. The interior retains the original glass cover and frame insert. The back is engraved with a period “WWW” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: locket diameter 1”; overall length, 2”
• Weight: 10.7 grams

A wonderful 18K yellow gold and Essex crystal stick pin dating from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. The head features a reverse-carved crystal decorated with a scene of a horse and rider jumping over a stone wall in a grassy field. The coloring is very finely done in pale shades. Essex crystals—especially those with sporting themes—were very popular in England and the United States. Occasionally, they were made in France, as well. French examples can often be identified by the use of a gold background under the crystal instead of the mother-of-pearl more frequently used in the US and England. The back of the gold mounting is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold and also with an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no damage or wear to the crystal. Size: overall length, 2-15/16”; head, 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A fine 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with deep translucent guilloche enamel over an engine-turned background surrounded by a reeded border enameled in opaque white. The front is centered with an old mine cut diamond. The trefoil-shaped bail is an especially nice touch. The interior retains the original frame insert. The bail is marked for 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

NOTE: This locket was very difficult to photograph. The purple enamel is deeply saturated and looks quite dark viewed directly. When the light strikes at an angle, however, the translucency of the purple comes shining through to show the underlying enraving.

• America, ca. 1910
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage; no dings; no monogram
• Dimensions: 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .04 carat

A lovely pair of Victorian earrings worked in 14K yellow, rose and green gold depicting a mother bird watching over her nest of three tiny eggs. The bird is nicely three-dimensional for added interest. The design is simply finished with a zigzag border. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, earwires are replacements
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding wires)
• Weight: 5.2 grams

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the Venetian Etruscan style. Each earring features a 1.52 amethyst cabochon surrounded by smaller cabochons. The gold surfaces are enhanced with an intricate pattern of wire- and bead-work, and the edges are finished in a zigzag pattern. The earrings are marked with Italian hallmarks. The backs have omega clips, but posts could easily be added.

• Italy, ca. 1960
• Excellent condition
• 15/16" diameter
• 13.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.0 carats

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold and steel earrings by Fred of Paris. The original FORCE 10 line was created by French jeweler Fred Samuels in 1966 and was based on pieces of rigging found on sailboats. Since 1936, the Parisian house had been one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, the Samuels’ combination of precious metals with stainless steel was a shocking innovation. In the forty years since the collection debuted, Fred of Paris has continually tweaked the collection by adding gemstones or other decorative elements—in this case cloisonné enamel. The translucent green, red and blue flowers appearing against an opaque white background gives the earclips a casual style that meshes nicely with the gold and steel setting. They’d be perfect to wear with either jeans or business attire. The backs are fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K gold standard, and are signed “Fred of Paris/Force 10”.

Origin: France, ca. 1990-1998. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” long; 7/16” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams.

A handsome gentleman’s ring, the front in the form of a horseshoe encircling an onyx cameo carved to depict a steeplechase scene of a jockey and horse leaping over a fence. Interestingly, the carver chose not to polish the black onyx background, perhaps to lend a more masculine feel to the design. The shank is finished in a reeded pattern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably, France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" wide tapering to 3/16” at the back
• Finger Size: 10
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Barry Kieselstein-Cord resembling a spiraled seashell. The gold has the softly burnished texture typical of Kieselstein-Cord’s designs in the 1980s. The omega clips are original, but posts could easily be added. Each earring is signed.

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1/2". Weight: 13.6 grams.

A rare 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the front cover depicting a Ford Model B automobile (1904-06). The headlights and the center of the grille are set with old mine cut diamonds sparkling as if truly lit up. The car is very finely detailed with excellent depth to the design, clearly showing the early right-hand drive and the fluted sides of the engine compartment. The back bears an ornate period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1905
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; a couple of pinpoint dings to the back cover hidden among the monogram
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

An elegant Georgian 18K gold fob seal worked in a floral pattern and set at the base with an amethyst tablet engraved with an armorial crest. The floral design continues up the shoulders to the loop by which the fob would have been hung from a watch chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1815
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 11/16" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 13.2 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

An iconic pair of 18K yellow gold "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. These earrings were made in several sizes, and this pair is a larger size. The earrings never had posts, but they could be easily added, if desired. The backs are marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K” and signed by Picasso.

• America, ca. 1983
• Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 12.0 grams

A wonderful Art Nouveau enameled gold witch's heart worked in shades of green, yellow and rose enamel over an engraved background and set with a pair of natural baroque pearls. The shading of the enamels is lovely and contrasts nicely with the luster of the pearls. In Victorian symbology, the witch's heart was used to express the sentiment of "bewitched by love." We've never before seen a witch's heart in an Art Nouveau enamel. The pendant has a folding bail and also a pinstem for wear as a brooch. The reverse is stamped with the mark for A.J. Hedges.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1". Weight: 7.3 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant in 14K yellow gold by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The curving gold frame encloses a flower with petals made from baroque Mississippi River pearls centering a bezel-set round blue sapphire. Another freshwater pearl hangs from the bottom of the pendant. The gold surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The bail is original and is marked by Bippart.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 2-1/2" x 5/8"; chain 15"
• Weight: 5.6 grams
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .11 carat

A very nice and unusually heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob/charm set with amethysts. The gold surfaces are heavily worked in twisted wire and beaded decoration. The smaller amethysts are set in flower-shaped collets. Tested and guaranteed 18K (the jump ring is marked “750”).

• Origin: Italy, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 16.5 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.59 carats

An elegant round bangle bracelet in 14K gold, the front set with three sapphires separated by natural baroque pearls. The gold is delicately pierced in a lattice pattern at the back and sides and in a floral pattern at the front. The sapphires have a very attractive violetish-blue color. Stamped with Alling’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1905
• Condition: very good, a small ding on the back side
• Dimensions: width 1/4" tapering to 6/32” at the back; circumference, 7.87”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .51 carat
• Weight: 8.0 grams