Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Sern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and peridots. The spheres are suspended from a bar of three larger gemstones. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Most Sputnik earrings are clips. This is only the second pair of Sputnik drop earrings we have seen in twenty years. The earrings originally had lever backs which is where the Stern mark would have been. At some point, this pair was changed to a post and clutch system. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and to be made by Stern.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” long; 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.72 carats
• Weight: 6.9 grams

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A delicate 14K yellow gold bracelet by Krementz fashioned as a chain of pansy blossoms. Each pansy is centered with a small baroque pearl. Alternating links are in a foliate style and are set with round brilliant cut amethysts. Pansies held special meaning in the Victorian period as flowers of remembrance. The use of purple and white gems mimics the flower’s most classic coloring. The cleverly concealed clasp is marked with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/16” wide, overall length, 7”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.06 cts.

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Brazil, ca 1955.
• Condition: original clips were removed and replaced with 14K posts
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.44 carats
• 10.2 grams.

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A vintage pair of Tiffany & Co. 18K yellow gold earrings in a classic ribbed shrimp design. The earrings have posts and omega backs. Marked "T&C 750".

Origin: America, ca 1980

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1" long; 3/8" maximum width

Weight: 14.9 grams

A pair of ducks takes flight from the lakeside marsh in this 18K yellow gold and diamond locket by renowned Swiss jewelers Huguenin Frères. The quality of the design and workmanship are astounding. The old European cut diamond (I/VS2) is set in platinum collet to enhance the color. Huguenin Frères was one of the leading makers of fine pocketwatch cases, and in 1899 expanded their range to include sporting decorations and other jewelry. It’s likely that a locket of this type was made for a markswoman or female hunter of some distinction. The locket retains its original interior frames and old silk liners. The front is signed by the maker.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; no monogram.
• Dimensions: 1 9/32” diameter.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.M/il>
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A lovely Retro necklace worked in 14K rose and yellow gold and set with moonstones and amethysts. The necklace descends from a rose gold paperclip link chain toward a pair of openwork yellow gold plaques, each set with a round amethyst accented with a rose gold stylized flower, and flanking a central triangular plaque designed in the same manner. A pair of oval cabochon moonstones is set at either side. The central plaque suspends a larger oval moonstone with a nearly invisible setting. The moonstones have very nice bluish adularescence and the amethysts have rich purple color. The interplay of gemstone and gold colors and the unusual design mixing Victorian, Art Nouveau and Retro elements creates a very striking effect. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: ecellent, all original. Size: 17-5/8” long; central plaque and pendant, 1-3/8” long. Weight: 14.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.43 cts; amethyst, .32 ct.

A wonderful Georgian 18K gold ring featuring a bold royal blue enamel plaque enhanced with a gold and seed pearl applique of a pansy. The blossom is set with a rose cut diamond at the center. The entire plaque is enclosed within a rococo floral border. The shank is decorated with complimentary floral elements. In Georgian jewelry, the pansy was used in jewelry given to loved ones with the sentiment "thinking of you". Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: England, ca 1770
• Condition: very good; enamel has a couple of areas of surface flaking to the uppermost layer of the enamel, so the color remains intact throughout
• Dimensions: plaque, 1-3/16" x 15/16"
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Weight: 7.1 grmams

A striking modernist 14K yellow gold link bracelet, with enlaced circular and oval links. The interplay of shapes creates a very chic look. It can be worn alone or with a collection of charms. The reverse is stamped for 14K gold and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7-3/4" long; 5/8" wide. Weight: 25.2 grams.

Very fine, heavy, fully three-dimensional 18K yellow gold figural brooch in the form of a 420 Class racing sailboat by Fred of Paris. It can also be worn as a pendant. The mast is fully Bermuda-rigged with beautifully detailed sails worked in contrasting matte and polished gold. Two figures are hiking out over the edge of the hull and waves lap at the sides. The 420 Class was designed in 1959 and became the leading training vessel for Olympic-class boats. Fred designed a series of brooches depicting popular European racing sailboats such as the "420" and the "Flying Dutchman". The bottom of the hull is stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an obscured maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

• France, ca 1965
• Excellent condition, sharp detail, all original
• 1-1/4" x 1-7/8"
• 11.7 grams.

A stunning pair of Victorian 14K gold, onyx and pearl earrings fashioned as onyx leaves or teardrops with gold and pearl lily-of-the-valley appliques. The scrolled surmounts are also accented with seed pearls. The pearls have nice luster and iridescence. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn The wires are likely a later replacement and are marked “14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 19/32” wide x 1-3/4” long (to top of wire). Weight: 7.5 gr.

A vintage 18K gold Sputnik ring of dramatically large proportions by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen fine-quality round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This is, by far, the largest Sputnik ring we've ever encountered, rising a full 3/4" above the finger. The shank is stamped with Stern's older hallmark and is marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: dome, 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.92 carats.

An elegant 18K yellow gold, Akoya pearl and diamond heart ring by Mikimoto. The diamond-studded heart is centered with a cluster of three 4.3-4.5mm pearls, graded as extra-fine AAA—the highest possible quality rating. They have fine luster and white body color with rosé overtones. The diamonds are E/VVS. The interior of the shank is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

The ring is accompanied by a 2006 written Bailey, Banks & Biddle appraisal for $2150.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: heart, 5/8" x 1/2". Weight: gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A lovely and weighty vintage 18K yellow gold oval locket, the front cover enhanced with a finely-worked net motif studded with nearly a half-carat small round brilliant cut diamonds in a résille (net) pattern. The diamonds offer a nice bit of glitter without being overwhelming. The back of the locket is stamped with the maker’s mark and English 18K hallmarks.

• Origin: England, 1974-99
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/16” excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat
• Weight: 15.1 grams.

A large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with brilliant cut amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. The amethysts intense violet coloring and excellent clarity. The pearls display good luster with a slightly rose overtone that nicely complement the color of the amethysts. Marked “Italy 18K.”

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” (excluding jump ring).
• Weight: 21.3 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 16.26 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed, if desired. Marked with an older Stern hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.11 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A very nice 14K yellow gold man's ring set with a rectangular carnelian plaque with canted corners. The gold surfaces are entirely covered with an hand-engraved foliate design. The gemstones in rings of this type were sometimes engraved with the owner's coat of arms, but this example has never been engraved. The stone's color and the overall impressive size of the ring make this a particularly nice example. The interior is marked 585.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 1/4" at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 17.4 gr.

A superb Ventian Etruscan pendant or charm set with citrine, smoky quartz, green and green tourmaline, aquamarine, blue topaz, hessonite garnet, and almandine garnet. These large pendants come in many different shapes, but this is the first time we've seen one in the shape of a six-pointed star (Star of David.) The gemstones are nicely colored and all the gold surfaces are enhanced with intricate ropetwist and beaded decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 3.0 cts; smoky quartz, 3.0 cts; tourmaline, 1.6 cts; aquamarine, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

A large heart-shaped 18K yellow and white gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“more than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand, author of “Cyrano,” in 1889. The word “plus” is represented by a plus sign, while “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with small synthetic rubies. Alphonse Augis began designing these love medallions in 1907, and the styles have changed over the years. This example, with its white gold heart-shaped center enhanced with an engraved starburst design, is likely from the late 1970s. Medals surrounded by a gemstone border are the most difficult to find, and this is the first we’ve seen with such generously-sized diamonds alternating with the synthetic rubies of a particularly rich color. The pendant is signed “A.A.” and is fully hallmarked with the maker’s mark and the French 18K standard.

• Origin: France, ca. 1978.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 10.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 carat; ruby, 1.67 carats.

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A lovely, medium-size Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold pin in the form of a violet. Each of the petals is beautifully decorated in shaded translucent enamels in tones of violet and yellowish-cream. The translucency and high gloss of the enamel create a tremendous sense of depth in the design. The edges of the petals are set with rows of tiny seed pearls and the flower is centered with an old European cut diamond, graded as I/J, SI2. The reverse retains its original clap and pinstem and is marked for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

An unusually large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with a border of calibre cut synthetic rubies, in turn enclosed within a bright-cut gold border. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1960.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring); the size of a half-dollar.
• Weight: 9.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, 4.45 carats.

A spectacular example of Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival jewelry from the period 1876-1918, this necklace features a central pendant drop in the form of a leaping stag suspended by pearl-enhanced chains from a neckchain of sapphire- and ruby-set plaques. The necklace is enameled throughout in shades of opaque white and black, and translucent green, red and purple. The stag is decorated with realistic shaded brown and gold enamels. The stag is set with a sapphire- and ruby-encrusted saddle. The neckchain has alternating wing-shaped plaques set with rubies and decorated green and white enamels, and buckle-shaped plaques set with oval sapphires enhanced with red and white enamels. The backs of the pendant and chain are also enameled. Exposed areas of silver are lightly engraved.

• Origin: Austria-Hungary (likely Vienna), ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original; only the faintest of wear to enamels on the high points of the stag (visible under magnification).
• Dimensions: necklace length, 15-1/2"; pendant, 1-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long (including the pearl chains).
• Weight: 29.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.03 carats; ruby, 1.58 carats.

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.