Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1002)

A very fine vintage 14K yellow gold three-stone ring featuring an oval mixed-cut ruby flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds. All the stones are of very fine quality. The ruby has the pigeon's blood color found in the finest quality stones. It is graded at medium-dark, strong, slightly purplish Red (slpR 6/6); excellent cut; Type II eye-clean clarity; with no indications of heat or other treatment. Rubies of this quality are exceptionally difficult to find now. The diamonds are of similar quality, graded as VS1 and VS2 and both with VG cut. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, mid-20th century. Size: crown, 5/8 x 5/16". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.09 ct; diamond, .80 ct.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features a "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond in the center and spiraling outward in a clockwise direction, the first letters of each gemstone's name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spell "DEAREST." The tree is enclosed in a open twist border, in turn surrounded by a broad pleated border. "Tree of Life" charms were usually set with the birthstones of children or grandchildren, so the acrostic version is quite uncommon. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co., 14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .64 carat
• Weight: 13.8 grams.

A wonderful vintage 14K gold acrostic charm using the first letters of each of the gemstones ( Diamond/Emerald/Amethyst/Ruby/Emerald/Sapphire/Topaz) to spell out the secret message “Dearest”. Acrostic jewelry first appeared in the 18th century and remained popular, though somewhat uncommon, throughout the Victorian era. The gold is enhanced with bright-cut engraving a pattern like that seen on sundials. This piece was most likely intended for a charm bracelet, but it could easily be worn as a pendant. The back of the charm is engraved “3-17-59” and is marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, 959
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” corner to corner
• Weight: 7.3 grams

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips, each featuring a cluster of round green tourmalines surrounded by a looping double border of gold. The tourmalines are have fine, saturated color, excellent cut and excellent clarity. The earrings are marked “18K”. The clips could easily be changed to posts.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 10.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.9 cts.

Exquisite 1950s triple strand pearl bracelet completed with generously diamond-set 14K white gold spacers and matching clasp. The 7mm pearls are of fine quality, with thick nacre and a lovely sheen, and are beautifully matched. The body color is ivory with silvery overtones. The quality is estimated at A1. Three swirled spacers and a matching clasp, each worked in 14K white gold complete the bracelet. Each piece is set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stones are of fine quality, estimated at H color and VVS clarity. Unlike most spacers that simply separate the strands, the spacers in this bracelet are constructed in a way that rows of three pearls seem to be set into the spacers themselves—a unique and particularly elegant style. The matching clasp, completely invisible when closed, is one of the best clasp designs we’ve seen in many years. The back of the clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, stringing is secure, no wear to pearls. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1-1/8” wide. Weight: 53.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 3.83 carats.

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold mid-century earrings fashioned as knots of rope-motif gold. Each earring is finished at the top with three round brilliant diamonds and at the bottom with free-hanging tassels ending in round brilliant blue sapphires. The knot design has a very sculptural quality, typical of French jewelry from the early 1950s, while the tassels provide a sense of movement. The diamonds are graded as I/J, SI1 and the sapphires are a nice medium violetish-blue. The omega backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 28.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.44 cts.; diamond, .30 ct.

A very pretty mid-century wedding band, pierced in an intricate pattern of chapel bells and flowers. The band has nice width and the detail is very crisp. The interior is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/32" wide
• Finger Size: 7-1/2
• Weight: 4.1 grams

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and bears Stern’s older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.05 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant featuring oval brilliant cut and round cabochon amethysts. The exposed areas of gold are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes, beading and piercing. The charm is a good size for wearing on a bracelet or as a necklace pendant. Marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" long (not including jump ring); 7/8" diameter at base. Weight: 8.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.89 cts.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern, the dome bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring tend toward richer autumnal colors with a lot of garnet-red, gold and medium-dark green. Stamped with an early Stern mark and "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/2 to 6-3/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A very fine and heavy Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold fob charm in a modified teardrop form. The bottom of the charm is set with a large turquoise oval cabochon (12x9.5mm) surmounted by rows of square aquamarines, smaller turquoise round cabochons and round brilliant cut garnets. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with ornate wirework. This is one of the highest-quality Venetian Etruscan charms we've seen. The jump ring is marked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with 21 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example is a little darker than most examples, with lots of deeply saturated greens and golds. The sputnik design was made in rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, brooches and charms. Charms are among the less common forms, and this example is large enough to be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good, a 1/8” ding on one side between the gemstones. Dimensions: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.34 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The use of a rose cut diamond and the A-Augis signature suggest the earlier part of that period. The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring); the size of a quarter.
• Weight: 5.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .08 carat.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped for 18K gold and has Stern’s older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 9/16” diameter. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.46 cts.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams