Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1000)

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled honeymoon pin featuring a diamond-set blossom enameled in delicate shades of iridescent translucent rose, yellow and white enamel set against a gold crescent moon. Delicate floral pins of this sort were popular gifts for new brides. In Victorian symbology, flowers could represent honey and crescents, the moon. Thus, honey + moon = honeymoon. The back is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 5/8"
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A very fine 14K yellow gold bracelet of interlocking floral plaques in the Art Nouveau style. Five plaques are set with round brilliant cut green tourmalines of particularly fine quality. The bracelet is finished with a concealed box clasp marked "RMU 585".

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 9/16" wide; 7-3/4" long. Weight: 21.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A pretty 14K yellow gold created from an Art Nouveau stickpin. The front of the ring depicts a young maiden with a large flower tucked into her flowing hair. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.7 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with repousse decoration of a young woman wearing a diamond-set diadem and flowers in her hair encircled in a laurel wreath. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The old European cut diamond add a perfect touch of sparkle. The interior retains both of its original frames and glass covers. The front side of the interior also contains a fragment of alabaster with carving. It might be Egyptian or something equally ancient, but whatever it is, someone took the trouble to create a mounting so that it fits perfectly into the repousse recesses of the cover. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; two minor pinpoints on back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A tiny enameled violet and a free-hanging baroque freshwater pearl enhance the dainty 10K gold pendant, complete with a curb link chain. Violets were used to represent the sentiments of love and faithfulness in the Victorian era. The pearl has nice luster that contrasts prettily with the colors of the enamel. The chain is marked 10K, and the pendant is tested 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/4" x 9/16"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.3 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this pendant converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a pearl. The conversion was accomplished with the addition of a hidden bail the back of the flower. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this pendant is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching ring converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412578.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; a tiny nick to the purple at white enamel at the center for the flower behind the pearl visible upon close inspection
• Dimensions: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8"
• Weight: 6.1 grams.

A very rare Art Nouveau Mardi Gras ball favor jewel in 14K gold depicting Greek goddess. The exposed areas of gold have a soft "bloomed" finish typical of higher quality Art Nouveau jewels that constrasts beautifully with the translucent enamels. The back is stamped "14K" and is engraved "COMUS 1908."

The Mystick Crewe of Comus is the oldest and most exclusive of New Orleans' Mardi Gras organizations. The theme selected for the 1908 event was "Gods & Goddesses." Favors were bestowed on the ladies in attendance. Usually, these were inexpensive items, but in 1908, the "trinket" were these lovely gold pins.

• Origin: America, 1908
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1" x 7/8"
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau ring converted from an antique French 18K gold stickpin. The gold clover is decorated with small natural pearls on each leaf arranged around a small bright green emerald. The stem is worked in platinum and is set with a small mine-cut diamond for a little added sparkle. The 18K gold and platinum clover is attached to a 14K yellow gold band.
Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Clover Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 1.7 gr.

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

A pair of ducks takes flight from the lakeside marsh in this 18K yellow gold and diamond locket by renowned Swiss jewelers Huguenin Frères. The quality of the design and workmanship are astounding. The old European cut diamond (I/VS2) is set in platinum collet to enhance the color. Huguenin Frères was one of the leading makers of fine pocketwatch cases, and in 1899 expanded their range to include sporting decorations and other jewelry. It’s likely that a locket of this type was made for a markswoman or female hunter of some distinction. The locket retains its original interior frames and old silk liners. The front is signed by the maker.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; no monogram.
• Dimensions: 1 9/32” diameter.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.M/il>
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

An exceptionally fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a pansy blossom highlighted with enamel. The enamel decoration is absolutely spectacular. Shades of translucent pink, chartreuse and maroon blend to create a very realistic, soft appearance. The flower is centered with an old European cut diamond of very fine quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and eyelet for a watch hanger. Though unsigned, the brooch was made by Whiteside & Blank, one of the finest Newark makers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A particularly lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold flower pin in the form of an iris. The flower is enhanced with iridescent enamels in delicate shades of green, cream and purple. A 3-point old mine cut diamond is nestled in the center of the blossom. The flower petals are deeply ruffled and finely engraved for added texture. The back retains the original clasp, stamped with the mark for Whiteside & Blank, but the pinstem has been replaced.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; replaced pinstem. Dimensions: 1-3/4 x 11/16". Weight: 5.7 gr.

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a crescent moon decorated with blue and white enamel forget-me-nots surrounding an enameled pansy set with a .025-ct round brilliant diamond. The pansy is the more uncommon type where the petals have elegantly-chased decoration. In Victorian flower language, both the pansy and the forget-me-not symbolized “think of me.” When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was “honeymoon,” and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damange
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 11/16”
• Weight: 2.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A delicate 14K yellow gold bracelet by Krementz fashioned as a chain of pansy blossoms. Each pansy is centered with a small baroque pearl. Alternating links are in a foliate style and are set with round brilliant cut amethysts. Pansies held special meaning in the Victorian period as flowers of remembrance. The use of purple and white gems mimics the flower’s most classic coloring. The cleverly concealed clasp is marked with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/16” wide, overall length, 7”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.06 cts.