Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1021)

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A nice late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternating links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a bamboo-shaped t-bar. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 875 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 17-1/2”
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

An unusual combination of classic Victorian insect jewelry and the patriotic color combination popular around the time of the Centennial celebrations of 1876. The insect’s folded wings are set with pairs of rubies,sapphires and diamonds. The thorax is represented with a single bezel-set diamond and the eyes are small rubies. Neither the rubies nor sapphires have evidence of heat treatment. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 1.86 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .17 ct; ruby, .09 ct; sapphire, .07 ct.

A wonderful early Victorian portrait locket worked in gilt silver and set with hundreds of Bohemian garnets, including a 10.2-carat rose cut oval at the center. The garnets are set with space between them to lighten the overall effect and better show the bright red coloring of the stones. The locket is suspended from a garnet-encrusted clover shaped bail. The back cover is entirely glass The gilding is intact.

• Origin: probably English, ca. 1845
• Condition: excellent, no missing stones
Dimensions: locket, 1-1/4” x 1-3/8”; overall length, 2-1/8”
• Weight: 14.4 grams

A pretty Victorian fob locket, the front cover decorated with a three-dimensional image of bird tending her nest of eggs, all worked in yellow, rose and green gold. The locket is attached to a swinging bail and would originally have been worn on either a fob chain or a chatelaine, rather than as a pendant. The hinged back cover is plain and was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, back cover has a few small dings commensurate with the locket’s age. Size: overall (excluding jump ring), 1-1/4” x 1”; locket only, 3/4” x 3/4”.

A fine pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from bell-shaped surmounts with bands of engraved decoration and applied flowers worked in rose and green gold. Each foxtail chain ends in a small gold sphere. The earrings have an elegant look, without being too heavy for comfortable wear. The surmounts are marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, wires are replacements. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 5.5 grams.

A fun piece of sporting jewelry depicting a crossed pair of croquet mallets and a coral ball inside the wicket. The banded agate stone is black with a single white line and has never been engraved. Croquet became fashionable among the English elite in 1856 when when the first book of croquet rules was published and the All England Croquet Club was formed at Wimbledon. The fob is stamped “10 ct.”

• Origin: England, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 9/16” x 1-1/4 (excluding jump rings)
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A stunning Victorian butterfly brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and silver. The body comprises a cabochon garnet inset with a rose cut diamond, all set between a pair of bright green emerald eyes and a tapering tail of natural pearls The delicately pierced wings are set with 24 rose cut diamonds, two rubies, two emeralds and eight blue sapphires. The butterfly is completed with gold legs and antennae. The brooch is beautifully made. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, the original c-clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. Dimension: 1-5/8" x 1-1/2". Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.79 carats.

A Victorian 14K yellow gold and coral pendant necklace in the Etruscan Revival taste. The central plaque is enhanced with a pair of natural color coral beads and suspends torpedo drops and a chain swag. The plaque was originally a brooch, but it has been given new life as an elegant necklace! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, circa 1860,
• Condition: Excellent.
• Dimensions: overall length, 17"; pendant, 1" x 1.5".
• Weight: 5.2 grams.

A very rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch in the form of the Princes of Wales’ feathers set with Scottish jasper and bloodstone. The feathers are joined with a crown and a banner with the Prince’s motto “Ich Dien.” The gold surfaces are ornately engraved. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891, the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s eldest son's investiture as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s extraordinarily long life, he was the first prince to mark a half-century in that position. Upon his succession, he ruled as Edward VII. Scottish agate jewelry was rarely set in gold, and this is one of the finest examples we’ve seen. The back is stamped with the registry (patent) number. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, 1891.
• Condition: excellent; no stone damage or wear to gold; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

Lovely French Second Empire 18K yellow gold, ruby and pearl earrings. Each earring features a surmount set with a round ruby in a buttercup mounting suspending a scrolled drop terminating in a second ruby and seed pearl drop surrounded by an engraved horseshoe. The rubies are relatively pastel, with a soft reddish-pink coloring. The earrings have lots of movement and sparkle. The original wires are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1850
• Condition: Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" long (from top of ear wire); 1/2" wide.
• Weight: 3.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat

A very good Victorian 18K gold watch fob worked with yellow, green and rose gold in an ornate rose pattern and mounted with an oval faceted citrine. The blossoms and foliage completely encircle the domed mounting decorated with stippled engraving. The fob hangs from an ornate foliate scroll. The gemstone in a fob such as this would often have been engraved with a monogram for use as a letter seal, but this citrine was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 8.0 cts.

A fascinating Victorian brooch set in 14K yellow gold. The octagonal plaque with canted corners appears to be made of opaque black glass and is inset with an ornate glass design worked in the pietra dura method. The translucent design is backed with gold foil to create a subtle glittery effect. The setting is very simple and does not detract from the more important enamel work. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Europe, possibly Switzerland, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original, very light surface scratching visible with a loupe. Size: 1-1/8" x 3/4".

A terrific 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a German shepherd’s head. The detail work is especially well-done, with very accurate representation of the fur, the texture of the snout, etc. The pinstem is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: overall length, 3”; head, 1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

The knot motif in Victorian jewelry signifies the unending bonds of love, so there could be no more fitting design for this exquisitely-made 18K yellow gold hair locket/brooch. The gold surface is ornately chased to suggest the texture of rope. A large cabochon amethyst enhanced with a star-set pearl centers the jewel. The brooch is finished with a pair of foxtail tassels. The back of the brooch has a glass-covered compartment with its original hair memorial. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant with the addition of two bails at the top. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Presented in the original fitted case.

• Origin:probably England, ca 1840.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/2 x 2-3/4".
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.34 carats.

A wonderful Victorian equestrian pin in the form of a horseshoe nail enhanced with a cluster of small natural pearls, sapphires, and rubies. Nails were a popular motif in Victorian jewelry, and the red, white, and blue color scheme had momentary popularity around the time of the American centennial in 1876. This piece is a pin, but can easily be worn as a pendant suspended from a chain without alteration. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1876
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 2-1/8” long
• Weight: 5.6 grams

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A classic late Victorian gold padlock clasp. These were used mostly for bracelets but could also be used with necklaces. Today, they are often worn as charms or in their original function. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, padlocks represented the unbreakable bonds of love. The padlock with stamped with the English 9ct mark, but the jump tests as 14K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 13/16” (1-1/16” with jump ring)
• Weight: 2.0 grams

A nicely-detailed late Victorian pin depicting a lion’s head. The open mouth grasps a 10-point old European-cut diamond, while each eye is set with a small cabochon ruby. The head is surrounded by flowing fur that hints at Art Nouveau styling. The design is similar to a tiger’s head brooch that was made by Alling & Co., and probably was made by one of Alling’s Newark competitors. The c-clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, replaced clasp. Size: 1-7/32” x 7/8”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

This classic late Victorian bangle bracelet is set with a row of gorgeous opal cabochons in graduated sizes enhanced with old European cut and single cut diamonds. The opals have superb play of color evenly spread across the stones’ surfaces. Primary colors are blues and greens with shots of orange and red. The interior of the bracelet has a jeweler’s inventory number, but no maker’s mark. It is presented in a fitted box that appears to be original. The interior of the box bears the name Wm Mossman, Jeweller & Goldsmith, 135 Princes St (Edinburgh, Scotland). The clasp is stamped with French import marks. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: Scotland, ca. 1900
• Condition: mint
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide at front; 6-1/8” circumference
• Weight: 17.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 7.36 carats; diamond, .37 carat

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. They are usually round or oval; lozenge-shaped examples such as this are uncommon. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 6.0 grams.

Elegant Napoleon III 18K gold brooch in the Etruscan Revival taste. The pin is in bar form with pointed ends, interrupted in the middle by a round black onyx plaque centering a natural seed pearl. The domed setting around the onyx is set with six natural seed pearls. The pin on either side of the onyx plaque is decorated with an engraved Greek key design. The reverse is hallmarked with the "tete d'aigle" stamp for 18K gold and also with an unidentified jeweler's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1870. Condition: excellent; all original, including tube-hinged pinstem with trombone clasp. Size: 2-5/8" x 13/16" (widest). Weight: 6.5 grams.

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

A really inventive Victorian 14K gold book chain necklace, each link in the form of a heart. The links are further enhanced with heart appliques engraved in a floral pattern. The necklace is completed with a large reeded bolt clasp that could easily hold multiple pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
Dimensions: 18-3/4” long
• Weight: 32.1 grams

A beautifully-designed Victorian ball locket enhanced with rose-cut diamonds. The two strap-like decorative elements on either side of the locket lift away, allowing the sphere to be unfolded into a locket accommodating six photos. The sphere is bisected by a band of rose-cut diamonds enhanced with engraving on either side. The original bail is set with rose-cut diamonds. As is typical of French jewels of the period, the diamonds are set in silver over the gold. Ball lockets with multiple panels are extremely rare, and this example is of particularly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

Handsome Napoleon III-era 18K gold brooch in the form of an eagle with spread wings. Eagle motifs were very popular in French jewelry of the 1860's and 70's. This example features a hook from which a lady could hang her gold watch. The eagle's beak holds a small ring that originally would have been attached to a tiny safety chain for the watch. This piece is decorated in the repousse manner, meaning that the design was created by working the gold from the back side rather than engraving the front. The detail is outstanding. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. The back is stamped with the French "tete d'aigle" 18K gold hallmark and with the jeweler's mark (BF).

Origin: France, circa 1870. Condition: excellent, crisp detail. Size: 2-1/4" x 9/16" (excluding watch hook). Weight: 2.5 grams.

An elegant Victorian 18K gold pendant featuring an onyx plaque centered with a seed pearl. The gold setting is ornately worked in a rope twist motif and with bright-cut engraving. Three tiny seed pearls complete the design. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/32” x 5/8”
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

A very nice Victorian watch fob chain of woven hair accented with 14K yellow gold fittings. The weaving is very nicely done from hair in a soft chestnut color. The center of the chain features a paneled gold fitting from which is suspended a gold-mounted pendant drop with acorns and leaves. Hairwork jewelry was a cottage industry and was made both as memorial jewelry and as love tokens. Each end of the chain is finished with gold fittings, as well. A contemporary gold filled chain has been added to the back to transform the fob chain into an 18” long necklace.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 18” long (with extension); 12-1/2” long (without extension).

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

An outstanding late Victorian tiger's claw brooch set in 18K yellow gold and accented with blue sapphires. Tiger claws became popular for use in jewelry following Queen Victoria's proclamation as Empress of India. Big-game hunters often brought back souvenirs of their travels and commissioned jewelry for their friends and family. Usually, the claws are set simply in gold or have an ornate Indian-style mounting, but the use of colored gemstones is extremely rare. The sapphires are of the finest quality, vividly saturated, medium tone, pure blue in color and VSI in clarity. The brooch retains its original extended pinstem. The pin could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a simple folding bail. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Origin: probably American, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16"� long x 15/16" wide�. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.83 cts.

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

A fine Victorian 14K gold and platinum locket ornately decorated in the Etruscan style with a lily pond scene. The scene includes rose gold cattails, green gold lily pads, and platinum lily blossoms. The remainder of the locket is enanced with ropetwists, wire work, and appliques. The locket opens at the back to reveal a photo compartment. The locket is completed iwth its original matching bail.

• Origin: America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; a few minor pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 2-3/16" (including bail)
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A colorful butterfly, it’s old mine cut diamond and sapphire body sporting wings studded with rubies, rose cut diamonds and emeralds, stands atop a diamond-encrusted twig in this gorgeous late Victorian jewel. Victorian butterfly jewels usually portray the insect with its wings spread in a rather rigid fashion. This pose is far more naturalistically attractive. The stones together weigh close to 3 carats, and all have excellent color. The piece appears to have been converted from a brooch into a pendant with the addition of a hidden bail at the back. Tested and guaranteed 18K. The contemporary chain is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/4”; chain length, 18”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.20 cts; sapphire, .38 ct; ruby, .67 ct; emerald, .63 ct
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A delightful ring converted from a French 18K rose and green gold and ruby stick pin. The design shows a pair of ruby cherries hanging from a pair of green gold leaves (the photos are upside down). The rubies have a nice red color the perfect shade of juicy, ripe cherries. The 18K gold design is mounted on a 14K gold band.

Cherries are rife with symbolism ranging from the eternal soul to female sexuality. This ring would also be great for someone from Michigan!

Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 1.7 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .06 ct.

An elegant Belle Epoque bracelet comprising links in the Louis XVI style, set alternately with round emeralds and rose cut diamonds. The gemstones are set in crimped collets that mimic the center of each flower. Each link is hinged in a way that allows the bracelet to drape nicely on the wrist. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks and a illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long: 15/32” wide
• Weight: 17.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 carat; emerald, .06 carat

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A handsome gentleman’s ring, the front in the form of a horseshoe encircling an onyx cameo carved to depict a steeplechase scene of a jockey and horse leaping over a fence. Interestingly, the carver chose not to polish the black onyx background, perhaps to lend a more masculine feel to the design. The shank is finished in a reeded pattern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably, France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" wide tapering to 3/16” at the back
• Finger Size: 10
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A pretty late Victorian 10K gold locket, the front decorated with a colorful champleve and painted enamel image of a thistle blossom. In Victorian flower language, the thistle represented the sentiment "meddling is unwelcome." One can imagine a rebellious young woman using it to hide the image of a suitor of whom her parents don't quite approve! And of course, the thistle is the emblem of Scotland. The cover opens by pressing on the bail, a mechanism we've never seen before. The interior is stamped 10Ct.

• Origin: probably England, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 13/16" (20 mm) diameter.
• Condition: a small area of missing enamel at the tip of one leaf and a tiny flake at the corner of the thistle blossom (neither are immediately noticeable); a few dimples on the back.
• Weight: 4.1 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold mesh watch fob suspending a nicely detailed 14K Egyptian Revival Sphinx seal. Mesh fobs are most frequently gold-filled, but this example is solid 14K. The fittings at either end are beautifully engraved in a foliate pattern. The Sphinx seal depicts the regal creature in its traditional pose with wings swept back against the leonine flanks. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no engraving on seal. Dimesions: overall length, 6-1/8"; seal, 1 x 3/4". Weight: 30.0 grams.

A handsome mid-Victorian Scottish agate pendant featuring pear-shaped cabochons of bloodstone ("heliotrope") and carnelian in a fine gold setting. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with fiolate engraving. Queen Victoria personally led the fashion for all things Scottish. Most jewels were set in silver; those set in gold were generally made in London using Scottish stones. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: Scotland/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, the piece was originally a brooch and the pinstem and clasp were removed and a bail added for wear as a pendant. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

A pretty Victorian 14K gold locket, the cover featuring a lion rampant with a shield. The edges of the locket are worked in an ornate rococo design that is mirrored on the large suspension ring. The interior retains the original glass cover and frame insert. The back is engraved with a period “WWW” monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail
• Dimensions: locket diameter 1”; overall length, 2”
• Weight: 10.7 grams

A Victorian 18K gold locket in the shape of an elongated heart centering an enameled plaque depicting a lovebird delivering a love letter amidst a bower of roses. The plaque is outlined with an ornate border of black champleve enamel. The gold is highlighted with lightly engraved decoration which is repeated on the back. The back cover is more ornately engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably English, ca. 1840
• Very good condition; a small ding on the left edge of the heart and minor pinpoints on the back cover
• 2" (excluding bail) x 1 1/8"
• 9.0 grams

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

An elegant 14K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in a twisted braid design. Interestingly, the bracelet tapers toward either end, leaving the middle heftier. This subtle detail gives the bracelet great elegance. The bracelet could be used to suspend up to 18 charms by passing thin jump rings through the center of each twist. That said, it’s really rather attractive all on its own. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 3/8” wide at center
• Weight: 15.7 grams

A spectacularly fine, museum-quality Victorian figural watch fob worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum depicting Aesop's fable "The Fox and the Grapes." The seal shows the fox's head, jaws agape, straining to reach a juicy cluster of grapes that are just barely out of reach. Every tiny detail of the fox's fur, teeth, tongue is beautifully worked, as are the leaves and distinct individual berries making up each cluster of grapes. The leather strap is enhanced with three additional grape elements.

The seal surface is worked in platinum engraved through to the underlying gold. The crest is that of the Scottish clan Irwin (variously spelled Irvine, Irving, etc.) with the first two words of the family motto, "Sub Sole Sub Umbra Virens."

The Albert swivel clasp is stamped with a French goldsmith's mark, but it's likely that fob is English and the swivel clasp is an addition from the 1920s. The metals are tested and guaranteed as 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original with the likely exception of the swivel clasp. Dimensions: fob length, 1-5/8"; overall length (including Albert clasp), 5-3/4". Weight: 48.9 gr.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

A fine shakudo stickpin mounted in 18K yellow gold enhanced with a ropetwist border. The shakudo plaque represents a geisha formally dressed in a gold-flowered kimono and with an elaborate hairdo complete with ribbons and blossoms. Shakudo elements such as these were transformed by European and American jewelers after the opening of Japan to Western trade in the 1850s. The mounting is 18K (tested and guaranteed) and the pinstem is 14K (marked).

Origin: Japan & America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 15/32”; overall length, 3”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An elegant pair of drop earrings featuring a cushion cut ruby surrounded by rosecut diamonds and seed pearls. The diamonds are set in platinum. The whole is finished with a pierced gallery. The rubies have nice color that contrasts beautifully with the pearls and glittery diamonds. The earrings were created from a French Victorian bar pin with the addition of new 18K wires. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; converted from a pin
• Dimenions: drops, 3/8" diameter; length from top of wires, 13/16"
Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .22 carat; diamond, .10 carat
• Weight; 1.5 grams.

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut green tourmaline. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-15/32” overall length; snake, 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A lovely mid-19th century locket worked in 18K yellow gold set with rubies and natural seed pearls. The setting is enhanced with geometric appliques, engine-turned engraving, rope twists, and a beautifully fashioned bow concealing the bail. The rubies have very good color and are unheated. The locket retains its original reeded jump ring, as well. The back is decorated with engine-turned engraving. The interior retains the original gold frame and glass cover. Faintly marked with French 18K gold marks and a maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1” x 2-1/16” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .21 carat
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A large friendship token pendant or charm featuring a hand holding a gem-set bouquet. The design is presented against a stippled background outlined with an engraved border. The bouquet is set with a cabochon ruby, an emerald cut emerald and a brilliant cut sapphire. Jewelry featuring a hand and flower motif were usually given as tokens of affection or friendship in the Victorian era. The back is stamped “18K.”

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .08 carat; emerald, .05 carat; sapphire, .05 carat.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.

A stunning 18K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring dozens of ornately intertwined swags and drops studded with small natural pearls and Mediterranean coral beads. The necklace is finished with an Etruscan style box clasp of the sort associated with Luigi Pallotti e Fratelli, one of the most exclusive jewelers in late 19th century Venice. This particular style of festoon necklace is particularly associated with his work. Pallotti exhibited successfully at the World' Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. The clasp is stamped with Venetian gold marks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.

A very fine French Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold brooch set with diamonds, blue sapphires and demantoid garnets around a central sugarloaf cabochon 3.59-carat peridot. The demantoids exhibit the desirable horsetail inclusions characteristic of Russian stones. The combination of blue sapphires and the bright grassy green of the demantoids and peridot is very pleasing. All the smaller stones are old mine cuts. Six small rose-cut diamonds are collet-set in silver. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem which is fully stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold and with an illegible goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 19/32". Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 carat; sapphire, .4 carat; demantoid, .46 carat; peridot, 3.59 carats.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold fancy watch chain featuring large links that we’d now call “Gucci links” in rose gold, alternating with smaller connector links in a slightly more yellow shade. Each of the large links is pierced with a star motif and the edges are enhanced with a fluted and ribbed pattern. The smaller links are chased in a floral pattern. The chain is finished with a ring and t-bar closure. The chain has a very substantial, “chunky” appearance, but is of moderate weight and comfortable for regular wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
• Weight: 38.4 grams.