Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

An elegant French 18K yellow gold 22" chain enhanced with randomly-spaced small semi-baroque pearls set at irregular lengths and finished with a bulldog swivel clip perfect for hanging interchangeable charms or pendants (as shown for illustration purposes). The pendant is being sold separately. It is item number 1405532 in our catalog. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Length: 22".
• Weight: 12.7 grams.

An elegant late Victorian or early Edwardian 14K yellow gold long chain with opal double-cabochon stations at regular intervals. The stations are carefully arranged so that the opals are alternately spaced whether the necklace is worn at full-length or doubled. The clasp can also be used to suspend a pendant. The opals are good quality with even play-of-color, mostly in the blue/green range with occasional bursts of orange/red. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; one opal has minor crazing to the back surface.
• Length, 52-1/2" plus the pendant clasp as a single strand; 27" as a double strand; opals, 8mm diameter.
• Weight: 16.8 grams.

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

A very fine Imperial Austro-Hungarian bangle bracelet simply designed as an oval of twisted gold, but then set at the top with a trefoil of three cornflower blue sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires, .72, .58, and .52 carat, have microscopic stringer, sharp-edge milky bands, and snowflake inclusions typical of sapphires mined in Kashmir in the 1880s. The sapphires have excellent saturation, medium-dark tone, pure blue color without violet overtones, and a characteristic velvety appearance. The sapphires are surrounded and centered with eleven small rose cut diamonds. The bracelet is stamped with the Vienna hallmark used 1872-1922. The removable safety chain makes the bangle easy to take on and off.

• Origin: Vienna, Austria-Hungary, ca 1885
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/8” wide at back; 5/8” wide at front; interior circumference, 6-1/2
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.83 carats; diamond, .10 carat
• Weight: 14.9 grams

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pendant converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412579

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled pin worked in 18K gold. The ornate multi-curved frame encloses a trio of grape leaves decorated with translucent enamel suspending a cluster of grapes formed from small pearls. The pin has a very delicate and elegant look. In the Victorian language of flowers, the grape symbolized "charity." Mark 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 15/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 2.9 grams.

The pansy carries the message "Think of me" in the Victorian language of flowers. Certainly, the giver of this beautiful enameled gold pansy ring will be thought of often and fondly. The beautiful violet, cream, yellow and black enamels have a velvety texture to suggest the feel of a real pansy's petals and the whole is set off by a sparkling old mine cut diamond at the center. Originally a Victorian stick pin, this flower is now ready for daily wear with the addition of a 14K gold split shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a stick pin; enamel is in perfect condition except for a small area about 3/32" that is mostly hidden by the petals in front of it (much less noticeable in person than in the photos).
• Dimensions: pansy, 9/16" x 9/16".
• Finger Size: 6-3/4.
• Weight: 3.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

An elegant round bangle bracelet in 14K gold, the front set with three sapphires separated by natural baroque pearls. The gold is delicately pierced in a lattice pattern at the back and sides and in a floral pattern at the front. The sapphires have a very attractive violetish-blue color. Stamped with Alling’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1905
• Condition: very good, a small ding on the back side
• Dimensions: width 1/4" tapering to 6/32” at the back; circumference, 7.87”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .51 carat
• Weight: 8.0 grams

A 14K gold Art Nouveau enameled violet and horseshoe pendant using the Victorian language of flowers to convey the sentiments "good luck" and "I'll always be true." The violet is centered with an old European cut diamond and the horseshoe is studded with seed pearls. The back retains the original pin and a folding, so the piece can be worn as a pin or pendant. The clasp is marked "14K."

• America, ca 1900
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8" excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat
• 4.0 grams

A very fine 18K yellow gold fancy link chain necklace featuring round and teardrop links interspersed with smaller navette-shaped links. Each of the handmade fancy links is further enhanced with elegant beaded decoration. Necklaces in this style were a quintessentially French design near the end of the 19th century and they look especially elegant when layered with other chains. The length is sufficient to be worn doubled. Stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 32" long. Weight: 46.3 gr.

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A lovely 14K yellow gold pendant necklace, the scrolling elements enhanced with translucent enamel in the Newark style and centering a bezel-set oval pink tourmaline. The pendant suspends a baroque freshwater pearl flanked by two pink tourmaline briolette drops. The overall appearance is very pastel and lovely. The back of the pendant is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Ehrlich & Sinnock.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: necklace length, 17”; pendant, 1” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.0 carat.

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.

A terrific pair of earrings in the form of round shakudo plaques set in 14K yellow gold borders. Each of the matching Meiji-period discs features a Japanese immortal or scholar along with a fearsome dragon. Details of the dragon’s scales and fins and the man’s staff are picked out in gold and copper highlights. The gold borders are simply decorated with a ropetwist motif. The earwires are later additions. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter; 1-1/2” from top of wire.

A handsome pheasant struts his stuff in this expertly-carved and painted Essex reverse crystal set in 14K yellow gold. The bird is presented against a landscape subtly-colored foliage and mounted on a rail fence setting. Animal jewelry featuring crystals as large as this are increasingly difficult to find. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no water damage.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 1”.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A delightfully whimsical late Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin depicting a circus elephant balancing atop a pearl ball. The elephant is very nicely detailed. The pin stem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 13/32" x 7/16". Weight: 2.9 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau Krementz 14K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring pear-shaped amethyst drops and small natural pearls enhanced with swags of gold links. Each of the amethysts hangs from a gold trumpet flower mounting that echos the central gold plaque. The gold surfaces are worked in the slightly matte Russian finish popular in high quality Art Nouveau jewels. The clasp and the back of the central plaque are marked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; the chain has been lengthened from the original 14" to its current 16.5"; the extension is made so the necklace can also be worn at a 15.25" length. Dimensions: length of central drop from the plaque, 1-1/4". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 10.51 carats.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush pale blue, medium blue, cream, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round diamond. The pin is unmarked but is certainly by one of the Newark jewelers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.3 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with round brilliant cut amethysts in collet settings. The necklace is completed with a dog clip clasp. The chain can be worn at is full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 16.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.6 carats

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

A wonderful late Victorian 14K yellow gold animal pin in the form of an English bulldog. The details are finely worked right down to the studded dog collar. The back is marked 14K and retains the original pinstem and clasp. A small folding bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original; sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 11/16". Weight: 6.2 gr.

A delightful pair of Art Nouveau daisy stud earrings, the petals formed from Mississippi River pearls arranged around a textured gold disc representing the flower's seed head. The freshwater pearls have attractive luster that contrasts nicely with the brightness of the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K. These earrings would look particularly nice worn with a very similar pearl daisy pendant (Item #1402839) in our collection.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: exellent; converted from the original screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 2.2 grams

This Art Nouveau medallion brooch depicts the beautiful Ophelia (spelled “Ophelie” in the French tradition), surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, as symbols of watery grave in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. This design was created by the French jeweler and sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) for the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme in Paris. Like many other Art Nouveau medalists, Vernier licensed some of his designs to various manufacturing jewelers around the world. This example is American and is marked 14K. The brooch retains its original watch hook and pinstem/clasp.

NOTE: The brooch could easily be worn as a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1908.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A gorgeous enameled clover, worked in several shades of green is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The clover is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Four-leaf clovers are generally associated with good luck, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Be mine." So whether you're in love or just feeling lucky, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.

Exquisitely rare Art Nouvean plaque pendant by master jeweler and enamelist Eugene Feuillatre. The overall bell-shaped outline mimics the shape of the flowers surrounded the golden maiden at the center of the pendant. The flowers are worked with en plein enamels in subtle shades of pale green and gold translucent enamels, and are surrounded by openwork filled with plique-a-jour enamels in milky opalescent shades of pale rose and blue. Every detail is perfectly worked. The best of the French Art Nouveau jewelers believed that a jewel should look as good from the back as from the front. The back of this piece features fine hand-engraved details showing the maiden's flowing hair and the delicate veining of the flowers' leaves and petals. the back is signed with Feutillatre's cartouche and is marked with a bigorne (a 19th century French guard against forgeries) and the "tete d'aigle" guarantee for 18K gold.

Eugene Feuillatre was born in Dukerque in 1870 and began exploring enameling techniques at the age of 18. He was hired by Lalique to execute his enamel designs and continued that association until around 1898 when he exhibited to great acclaim at the Paris Salon of the Societe des Artistes Francaises, where the Musee des Art Decoratifs (the decorative arts wing of the Louvre) acquired one of his works for its permanent collection. By the following year, he was exhibiting regularly at the New Gallery (London) and the Libre Esthetique (Brussels) alongside jewelry luminaries such as Lalique and Fouquet. Feuillatre exhibited successfully at the international expositions in Paris (1900) and Milan (1902). Today, he is considered among the greatest French fathers of Art Nouveau jewels.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, absolutely no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 2-9/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr.

14K gold ring featuring a detailed portrait of a Native American wearing a feathered headdress. The portrait is surrounded by a twisted rope border. Originally an Edwardian bar pin, the ring has been fashioned with the original pin's scrolled ends connecting to the medallion. The reverse is marked "585 Pr FSH" for 14K gold.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: crown, 13/16" diamter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/2.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.

An elegant very early Edwardian 14K yellow gold ring of navette shape set with an interesting spotted or moss agate cabochon. The agate's body color is a translucent goldish-gray color with darker markings that resemble a tiger's stripes. The gold setting is delicately enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The very long navette shape is very flattering to the finger. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Ring Size: 8. Dimensions: crown 7/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 5.2 gr.

A classic French Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring a young woman with naught but a sprig of flowers covering her breasts set against a poppy blossom. A swallow appears over her shoulder. In Victorian symbology, swallows variously represented wishes for a safe return or “home and heart” since the they mate for life. Similarly, poppies had various meanings including imagination and pleasure. The design was created by the sculptor Armand-Pierre-Louis Quenard (1865-1925) and presented at the inaugural salon of the Société des Artistes Français in 1901. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1901.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A beautifully romantic French Art Nouveau heart-shaped coin purse, bordered in square cut blue sapphires and centered with a heart-shaped sapphire. The sapphires have very slightly violetish-blue sapphires color and eye clean clarity. The frame is engraved in a geometric pattern and the closure is set with cabochon sapphires. The frame's interior is engraved with a pair of serial numbers, indicating the purse was made by one of the more important French joailliers at the turn of the century. The frame retains the original bail that would originally have allowed the purse to be suspended from a bracelet or finger ring at a formal ball or similar society event. The back of the frame is stamped with French hallmarks. We've never before seen a heart-shaped gold mesh purse!

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
• Weight: 18.9 grams.

An elegant bracelet composed of open links ornately decorated in a pattern of acanthus leaves alternating with blue sapphire oval cabochons. The sapphires do not show indication of heat treatment. Each link is slightly curved, so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is masterfully constructed to be invisible once closed. Like most Portuguese gold jewelry of the era, it’s quite heavy for its size. The bracelet is stamped with 19.2K gold marks used in the city of Oporto, 1887-1937.

• Origin: Portugal, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimeions: 1/2" wide; 7-3/4” long
• Weight: 23.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.36 carats

A lovely Victorian pendant/pin in a snowflake pattern. The 14K yellow mounting is set with seed pearls and sapphires around the central old mine cut diamond. The design is very elegant and delicate. The back retains the original pinstem/clasp and pendant loop. Marked 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: one pearl deficient; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 3.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .18 carat; diamond, .03 carat.

An elegant love knot pendant in 18K gold and platinum set with rose cut diamonds and a ruby at the center. The gold surface has a matte finish typical of French jewelry at the end of the 19th century. The pendant was originally a scarf clip and still retains the clip mechanism. A double bail allows it to be worn as a pendant. The bail's surface finish matches the rest of the knot, and the maker's marks are applied to the bail rather than to the body of the clip, suggesting that the double bail is original to the piece. NOTE: The chain is shown only for display purposes.

• France, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; original finish; no dings.
• 11/16" diameter (excluding bail).
• 2.8 grams.