Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1021)

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

A wonderfully detailed 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a spaniel. The shape of the dog’s head and the amount of fur suggests that the pin represents a Springer or English Cocker spaniel. The pin has substantial weight. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, circa 1935.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 6.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

Presented in its original box, a lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis’ initials, is in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a elegant floral border. The use of a single cut diamond, and the Augis initials indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

The pendant is presented in its original silk moire book-shaped box. The interior is printed with the excerpt from Gérard’s poem. These boxes are incredibly rare.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-1/16” (from top of bail). Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

An attractive pair of Retro 14K yellow gold dangle earrings fashioned as circles of gold balls centering round brilliant cut amethysts. The amethysts have rich deep coloring and excellent clarity. The earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted to wires. The new look is much more wearable and provides tons of sparkly movement!

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1 3/8" long from top of wires.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.76 carats.
• Condition: Very good; a couple of small dings on the back sides.

A fine 1930's 14K yellow gold Art Deco mechanical wristwatch by by Hy Moser & Cie, and retailed by Tiffany & Co. Moser was the most important watchmaker in Imperial Russia, selling many of his goods to the Imperial family and courtiers. After the Revolution, the company was relocated to Switzerland and continued to provide movements to luxury retailers such as Tiffany.

The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".

An especially good quality 18K yellow gold band engraved with swirling vines, alternating leaves set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The engraving is very nicely worked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/32” wide. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 6.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A pretty vintage 14K yellow gold pin by Krementz featuring a spray of beautifully enameled bleeding hearts, each dangling a small seed pearl. The enameling on the blossoms has a matte effect that mimics the waxing texture of the flower in nature, while the leaves are in Krementz's more typical shaded translucent style. In Victorian flower language, bleeding hearts were used to represent "deepest love." Pins such as this with a delicate enameled flower against a geometric back represent are typical of Krementz's move Art Nouveau into Art Deco and finally Retro. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.

A superb Retro 14K gold ring in the form of a buckle set with round brilliant cut diamonds and calibre cut natural rubies. The design is enhanced with a prong-set .65 carat diamond solitaire. The diamond is G/H color and VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds are of similar quality. All the diamonds are set in platinum. The rubies have fine color and excellent color. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 17/16” and sits 1/4” high above the finger
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 9.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: diamond, 1.05 carats; ruby, .66 carat

Lovely 14K yellow gold Retro Modern brooch set with blue sapphires and diamond. The wreath-like form of this pin is very unusual, and is especially effective when placed against dark fabric. One side of the wreath is anchored by a spray of sapphire "flowers" tied with a diamond-set ribbon. The setting is quite heavy. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .55 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

Very nice 14 karat yellow and rose gold brooch in the Retro Modern style, set with a single deeply lustrous 4.5mm pearl. The circle is rose gold, and the leaves are a slightly green-tinted yellow gold. The interplay of gold colors is a signature of period Retro Modern jewelry. The back is marked by the jeweller, A. J. Hedges & Co.

Origin: Newark, NJ, circa 1935. Condition: virutally mint, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8".

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A superb 14K gold hinged bangle featuring a graduated row of oval brilliant cut amethysts with a pair of round brilliant diamonds separating each stone. The amethysts are of exceptional quality rivalling the finest Siberian stones mined in the 19th century. They have a deeply saturated violet color and show no color zoning. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS2 clarity and are set in white gold to further enhance their sparkle. The clasp is stamped 14K. The safety chain has a clasp so the bracelet can be opened fully for ease of putting on and taking off.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide tapering to 7/32” at the back; 6-1/2” circumference
• Weight: 28.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.99 carats; diamond, .60 carats

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 4.93 cts; ruby, .05 ct.

A lovely pair of colorful Retro earrings worked in 14K yellow gold. Each earring is fashioned in a stylized fan pattern set at the center with a round brilliant cut blue zircon and a spray of oval cabochon moonstones. The intense electric blue of the zircons heightens the softer, billowy blue adularescence of the moonstones. The zircons are set in rose gold, while the moonstones are in yellow. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 3/4 in. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: zircon, 1.76 cts; moonstone, 7.38 cts.

A lovely pair of 10K yellow gold drop earrings decorated with a golden bows centered with round brilliant cut blue zircons. The gems have deep coloring and show nicely in a small size. These Retro earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted for pierced ears. The earrings have nice movement and could be worn with either casual or cocktail attire. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, circa 1935.
• Excellent condition.
• 9/16" wide; 1-1/4" long from top of wire.
Weight: 3.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Zircon Weight: 1.28 carats.

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

An interesting vintage 14K yellow gold ring featuring a heart-shaped amethyst in an ornate prong setting with a clustered accent of cultured pearls and another small amethyst at the top. The gallery under the stone echos the heart motif. The amethyst has good, even coloring and is eye-clean. The interior of the shank is engraved "Until Eternity." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: one prong lacking near the bottom point of the heart; amethyst has a 1 millimeter nick in the girdle (visible under magnification). Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 1" x 3/4". Weight: 9.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.35 cts.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

Superb Retro 18K yellow gold and platinum duette brooch set wtih diamonds and rubies. The design is an exciting overlap of scrolled gold ribbons, the ends accented with platinum and pave-set with round-cut diamonds. The center of the brooch is set with a cluster of prong-set round-cut rubies. The back of the brooch features a mechanism that allows the piece two be disassembled into two separate smaller pins. This "duette" mechanism was used only on the finest pieces during the Retro period. Often, the pair of smaller pins would be worn on either lapel, or sometimes just one pin would be used when a more delicate look was needed. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 37.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.2 carats; ruby, 1.5 carats.

A handsome Art Deco 14K yellow gold man's ring, the stepped crown featuring a square synthetic sapphire in a millegrained collet seeeting flanked on either side by a round diamond. The diamond are graded as I/SI2. The sapphire has bright blue coloring and very good saturation. Men's rings from this period nearly always used synthetic sapphires mixed with diamonds. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 10-1/2. Weight: 6.0 grams Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; diamond, .2 ct.

An interesting late Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet worked as a series of sextupled cable links that are slightly flattened so they splay out sideways to create a wide bracelet with a sort of optical illusion effect. The clasp is decorated so the bracelet appears seamless when being worn. The open link design makes this a perfect bracelet to wear on its own or with chunky, heavy charms. The interior of the clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7” long
• Weight: 38.2 grams

A very handsome Retro bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold links enhanced with engraving in a snakeskin texture. The color contrast is very attractive, and the links are made in such a way that the bracelet drapes very nicely on the wrist. The box clasp is stamped with Italian gold marks of the period and the goldsmith’s registry number 1 TO for Antica Ditta Marchisio (now Mattioli Gioielli). Founded in 1860, the house is the oldest jeweler in Torino, Italy, and was a maker for several luxury jewelry houses including Cartier.

• Origin: Italy, 1934-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 8-3/8” long
• Weight: 53.6 grams

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is the classic version with the crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a plain border. The use of a rose cut diamond and the Augis signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/8” (from top of bail). Weight: 1.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .04 ct.

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

Extraordinary patriotic World War II era “V for Victory” brooch in 14K yellow gold set with sapphires and pearls. Victory sentiments were fashionable in costume jewelry, but fine jewelry examples are extremely scarce. This example is convertible into a propeller-shaped bar pin, favored by the wives and mothers of men in the Air Corps. The pin is set with blue sapphire (likely Montana origin), including a blue-to-purple color change sapphire at the hinge. The pinstem and clasp could be removed for conversion to a V-shaped or bar-shaped pendant. Stamped with an unknown maker's mark "A14K" and "Pat Pend".

Origin: America, 1940-45. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-13/16” x 1-13/16” in the “V” formation; 3-1/2” x 1/4" in bar formation. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.81 carats.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.